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Posted: 7/3/2024 5:45:19 AM EDT
[Last Edit: WarDawg][Edited]
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I looked it over and it’s good to go. Well I got one small issue. The hammer is dragging the wood stock .It’s noticeable. So I guess I need to sand it down in that area ? Or do I need to chisel it lightly. I’m not a woodworker. At all. It will actually hang the hammer up. So I do need to relieve it. Suggestions ? I own a dremmel. I can buba joe it. lol. ?? Attached File Attached File Attached File |
| I don’t know how often I should pull the side lock. But if it’s enough on how often I shoot this rifle , I think if I lightly remove some wood in that small area it will be done with. I’ll wait to hear from some others to get a collective opinion. The wise ole HIVE always comes through. WarDawg |
| Yea I would either shim it or relieve the wood in that area to clear. I have had one of these models for years. Many deer taken with it. I ended up scoring a T/C Hawken in .54 cal and never looked back. The .54 is an absolute hammer in the woods and is very accurate. Enjoy that rifle you’ll love it. |
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I would go slowly with sandpaper (Heavy grit to fine grit) to thin out that area a little. Investarms makes some nice rifles. I picked up mine a couple of years ago for dirt cheap. It’s a .50 cal and has a 20” barrel. It’s definitely a brush carbine! Mine apparently was made by Investarms for Cabela’s: 
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Before anything, make sure your hammer is tight to the lock, and make sure the lock is tight. Don't over tighten the lock screw, but just make sure it's snug. It can also help to remove the lock and look, make sure the lock is sitting inside the inlet fully and square. While the lock is out, make sure the hammer does not have a ton of movement in it. Both the hammer on the tumbler within the hole in the lock plate could cause issues. Assuming your lock is solid, and the lock can sit in the inlet good, then the best way to fix this is to remove the wood above the lock. It doesn't really matter if you use a wood chisel, file/rasp, or sandpaper. The easiest or fastest is probably a file, or finer wood rasp. It won't take much, 1/16" would probably give you clearance. Then sand with some sandpaper, and touch up the wood. You can try to use some stain to see if it can match the color, it probably won't be perfect. Then finish with something simple like wipe on polyurethane in that spot. I would not try to shim the hammer. You would need too thick a shim, and your hammer sits on a square shaped peg. You don't want to reduce the area it can grab. This is just one of those things with buying imported Italian, Spanish and Turkish muzzleloaders. Very few of them come 100% perfect, but they can be ok with a few little tweaks. Also while the lock is off, make sure your trigger can move freely. |
| I will double check the nipple hammer relationship again in the morning. I remember it being fine when I checked. But a double check will happen. I’m finished doing my damage with the hammer clearance with the stock. Ha ha. The rifle is not together. I scrubbed and scrubbed today on it. Kept getting brown patches. I used standard Hoppes solvent and a soft 12 gauge barrel brush. My .50 cal brass brush hasn’t made to it me yet. I wet patched it with Break Free CLp and called it the night. Pop corn and Two Mules for Sister Sara. Wardawg |
| Teddy dog you was spot on. I looked at nipple / hammer placement before I relieved the spot the hammer bounded up on the stock. The trigger out of stock feels good and works great. I removed wood from that area and it functions %100 now. But now the nipple and hammer is off. It will go over it. But just make it. With a cap on it I will have issues. But fear not !!!! I’m good at digging myself into a deeper hole !! Anybody can do it the easy way. I got some thin wood shims. I will cut and stick in there and shim out. My life with firearms. Well see. Wardawg. |
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Like to add that due to the stock inlet cut the hammer laying on the wood was keeping it from being full seated when screw tightened. By me removing the wood away from hammer swing area it is now fully seated. Before i relieved any wood , when tightening the lock screw I could see the hammer move in a weird way. It was being mashed against the stock. I did need to remove some wood. But maybe not as much due to me needing to shim outward now. The hammer seems to be not bent. But due to the way it’s made with the looping twist it hard to tell. I don’t think it is. If I can get some thin shims in the I think it will be where it needed to be. I think the stock was made a little fat in that area. The inlet cut just a tad too deep. Combo deal. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Your hammer probably isn't bent, but I have heard of people bending them to correct issues like this. I am not a fan of doing something like that, it's kind of a drastic measure in my opinion. As perfect as I am  , I have encountered a very similar problem that you have. The top end of the inlet was too deep, and the stock wood was hitting the hammer just like yours was. The solution I came up with I think can work for yours too. I used JB quik weld to bed the lock by applying it to the top of the inlet surfaces, and putting wax on the lock. I then used a small clamp and only clamped the bottom half of the lock. JB quik works really good for this, and one of the good things is if you wait a couple minutes it thickens up so it's easier to work with and it doesn't just run out. I would find the best place to clamp dry before applying the epoxy. Assuming you want to move the top of the lock out, you could put epoxy only on those surfaces, and leave the bottom ones bare if you wanted. All said and done, it doesn't have to be perfect. As long as you have say a cardstock thickness of clearance from the hood of the hammer to the cap, you should be ok. Just make sure your hammer doesn't have so much wiggle that it can miss. Almost none of them are perfectly centered. Even Thompson Center is often off center somewhat. |
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I agree with what Fgshoot is telling you. Build up the lock side inlet to get your hammer mostly centered on the nipple,then if your lock plate screw is too short relive the head and estunchion on the other side. Also it looks like your breach tang is over inletted and could use bedding too. Nice rifle. |
| I’ll Amazon some of that job quick weld . So I need some wax stick and rub down in inside of my lock plate where the JB weld will touch so it don’t stick to the lock. I have never used JB weld or done this. Just slowly press the lock into its place till it is centered over the nipple. Hurt anything to lower hammer and let it set on nipple ? I hear ya about a clamp. You think painters tape wrapped around the lock / rifle would be efficient ? I might be able to come up with something. Let it sit overnight and then remove ? Just lining all this up. Ty WarDawg. |
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You can buy everything at the hardware store. JB weld, and JB Quik weld are the most common brands there are. I can't imagine any hardware store that doesn't have both of them. The release agent can be a lot of things, and yes, it's just so it doesn't stick to the lock. They make special bedding release agent, but I never use it. I've used basic automotive grease before with success. My favorite is some kind of wax though. Usually I use SnoSeal since I always have it. Just wipe it on the lock, not super thick, just a thin coating. Some other things that might he helpful is Acetone, that seems to clean up any excess JB weld. You probably wont need it, and alcohol should work just as good too. Some toothpicks helps to clean up the edges. For a clamp, I'm not sure what the best way is, but a small C clamp should work. A spring clamp should work. You could probably just use weights on the lock too, just something to hold it in place. I'm sure painters tape will be fine. It isn't like you are clamping it hard, just enough to squish some epoxy. The good thing about JB Quik is that it sets so fast. The stuff is already hard in like 15-20 minutes. Read the package, but I want to say 4 hours is the cure time before you would want to pull the lock out and check your work. So the way I would go about this, first using a clamp or something figure out where the best place to clamp will be to get the lock to sit so the hammer is aligned how you want it. I wouldn't have the hammer down when bedding it, I would actually remove the hammer completely so it's out of the way. You can even use some paper shims if you need to get it level. Once you figure that out, mix your JB Quik, it's a 1:1 mix epoxy, it's really convenient in those 2 sided squirt tubes. Mix it up for a little bit, and then let it set just a little. The stuff cures fast, so we are talking 1-3 minutes probably, wait for it to get to more of a peanut butter like state, then apply it to the areas of the inlet where the lock sits. Do not forget to the release agent on the lock. Put the lock in place, and clamp it in the area that you determined earlier, or if you used shims, that's fine too. With the clamp some of the JB will squirt around the edges as it tightens. I like to take a toothpick to clean up the edge around the lock. Then just wait for it to cure, and remove the lock. Assuming all looks good, reassemble and it should line up right. If not, re-working JB weld really isn't any harder than working with wood anyway, but I have confidence you will get it. |
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Thanks for the advice. I was playing with popsicle sticks. It measured .064. I taped them in place. This is what I got. I was just toying around Attached File Attached File Attached File |
| I have noticed what yall already know. If you tighten the lock mounting screw it can manipulate the lock . As I tighten I can see the top of the lock pivot in at the top. Or it seems. I haven’t tightened it down. Just snug. It might be just a Jedi mind trick. Hell who knows. lol. |
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Originally Posted By WarDawg: I have noticed what yall already know. If you tighten the lock mounting screw it can manipulate the lock . As I tighten I can see the top of the lock pivot in at the top. Or it seems. I haven’t tightened it down. Just snug. It might be just a Jedi mind trick. Hell who knows. lol. Looking at those pictures, you are probably going to need those shims, that's pretty bad. After you bed your lock, it won't wiggle with the bolt tightening like it does now. I've never seen one that bad before. It almost makes me wonder if bending the hammer might be a better option. I wish I could give better advice. It might not be too late to return and exchange that rifle for another one. |
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Ok I think I’m back the good lords grace. I have had a tremendous run of bad luck with firearms over the last couple years. As getting new guns and something wrong. But here I sat thinking bad thought of sending this rifle through a bandsaw . One of yall suggested bending the hammer. That’s exactly what I did. Took three attempts in a brass lined work vise. I snuck up on it. I placed in the jaws at an angle when tightening the vise would lean it correctly. This was done with just the hammer . I removed it from lock/action. I think I got it. This is with NO shims at all. Factory stock inlet . I thought it might have been the hammer the whole time. But studying it over I still would have to remove alittle stock for the hammer travel. I won’t have Black Powder till next week. I don’t know when I can test it. The hammer bending did change the hammer face to the nipple. I don’t know how important that is. It’s going to hit the cap. Just might not be square and perfectly flat. One of y’all once said. Find a TC Hawkens. I might just do that. Lightly look anyway. Wardawg Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
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Just to add the epoxy steel stick. Epoxy putty is extremely useful in this situation Only mix very small amount at a time. And mix until smooth gray and then roll out thin string like sections and put under the lock and apply pressure It is nice that it will not run/drip You have to have a plan because it is a 5 minute epoxy and use a release agent It looks like you got a good looking fix on a nice rifle |
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