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Posted: 12/2/2023 2:44:09 PM EDT
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TL;DR- Buy this sh!t. So I got a bottle of this for free at the ECNS shooting event from the promo table. Now we all know how much of a hassle cleaning suppressor parts can be and there's only a few methods that are decent; ultrasonic, tumbling with ss pins, media blasting, and "the dip". All have their own hassles. So I really didn't give much weight to the promises on some bottle of stuff I'd never heard of before that was given to me for free. Safe on aluminum, titanium, stainless, steel, and environmentally friendly and user safe and water based and biodegradable and blah blah blah... yeah, right. This is going to suck.  And it's $30 for a spray bottle? LOL, maybe I can sell it. I tossed it aside when I got home 3 weeks ago and forgot about it until I found it again last night.I had a really dirty mount that had a significant amount of lead and carbon caking from full auto fire sitting around. I don't even bother trying to clean my mounts anymore until they begin to seize up occasionally, which this one was at the point of. The rock hard full auto deposits don't even blast off all that easily. So I figured what the heck, poured some of this miracle potion in a small dish, set the suppressor mount in and wholly expected to be disappointed 24 hours later. I don't care; it was free to me. I checked on it about 3-4 hours later and WOW... it was clean. Clean clean. I took it out, wiped it with a paper towel and rinsed it under warm water in the sink. No scrubbing. OMFG. Get some of this shit. I don't care that it's $30 on their website. It's like "the dip" on steroids that's safe on aluminum and won't poison me. Better than any method I've ever tried. I have no doubts it will clean baffles following their instructions, and I'll do some baffles here soon just to post an update here. When I run out, I'm buying the big gallon jug and pouring it in an ultrasonic cleaner (I can't even fathom how ridiculous this stuff is going to work with agitation or sonic action). I'll never have to manually clean a baffle, mount, pistol slide, pistol barrel, charging handle or BCG again. Before and after (about 3-4 hours)     ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Test 2: Neglected SWR Warlock (Aluminum baffles). Several bricks of CCI Standard (uncoated lead). I don’t keep track of rounds and I don’t clean suppressors, so it was a pain to get apart. I reused the solution I used on the flash hider and topped it off to get everything submerged. So it’s a bit used up already. Before…  Macaroni in the pot; that’s some wet ass…  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 5.5 hour Later... Pulled one baffle out randomly and simply wiped it with a paper towel. No scrubbing or scraping. The nooks on the inside and the scallops on the face still have some hard caking… everything else is squeaky clean. The anodizing appears unaffected. I’m pleased so far. I’m going to put this one back in and leave the other baffles untouched and check at the 24 hour mark.      ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 30 hour rimfire update: The stuff did excellent on the carbon and copper caked AAC suppressor mount after only several hours. I’m a bit disappointed in the rimfire performance. This is about the worst case scenario though; neglected aluminum rimfire can shooting mostly uncoated lead CCI standard. It’s hardly a scientific conclusion, but I think it works well on the carbon/copper of the centerfire mounts, but has a hard time handling increased amounts of lead in the rimfire can. Or maybe the solution just got all used up… it was already used solution from the flash hider and this time was *completely* black when with maybe 1/8” of sludge resting on the bottom of the dish. I’m going to put the 4 “bad” baffles into some fresh solution overnight again, but I’m skeptical they’ll look get much better.   2 of the baffles are pretty clean, there’s still some caking on the face scallops. I’m pleased with these:  4 baffles are a little better overall but there’s still significant caking inside and outside. No idea why these didn't clean up as well. Maybe they were more forward/backward in the stack and started with more fouling. If I had to guess, based on the caked thread end and the cleaner endcap, the hard caking was on the baffles closest to the muzzle. It did seem to cut through and clean up the thinner sections of caking though. Maybe the treatment would be good if done frequently before fouling really cakes up.  ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Final update (maybe): So to test if the solution just got all used up and needed refreshed, I replaced the old black solution yesterday with fresh stuff and I also put it in a mason jar this time so I could swirl/agitate it frequently. Remember, the first baffle soaking was with solution I'd already used on the AAC blackout mount. So it wasn't quite fresh. Furthermore, the steel centerfire suppressor mount caking would be primarily carbon and copper fouling due to FMJ rounds whereas the (very neglected) aluminum rimfire baffle fouling is primarily carbon and lead because the ammo used was mostly CCI Standard uncoated lead. So different base material and different fouling composition and much heavier caking on the baffles. Plus the cloudy black solution had a different "feel" and smell to it; it felt "drier" and less "surfactanty" (shutup... I get to make words up if I want)... which is what leads me to question whether that solution might just be all used up and no longer effective. > So after the suppressor mount, the cleaning solution had attained a lightly cloudy but mostly clear blueish green tint (indicative of primarily cupric/cuprous salts in solution) and had carbon precipitate on the bottom of the dish (carbon is pretty much insoluble in most any solvents due to being very nonpolar with stable covalent bonding; so it's not surprising the carbon precipitate settled out and the copper turned the solution blue. I suspect the cloudiness was from a bit of lead). >> And after the first baffle soaking some baffles were darn near clean and the severely caked baffles had less caking on them, but still not clean and action appears to have halted. So there was a reduction of lead deposits. And the solution was opaque black... furthermore the black solution was not easily cleared pouring through filter paper, this tells us it's not likely just suspended carbon precipitate but maybe extremely fine lead(II) sulfide in suspension (??). Most lead compound are usually clear, sometimes yellow, I can't think of a black lead solution and I don't think the lead removal is making lead acetate (ie: "the dip") both because of the color and the PH of the new and used solution are both >8 (alkaline). I didn't have the balls to taste it for sweetness and no longer have access to an FTIR or HPLC equipment. Anyways, I digress... all this to say I think it absolutely "works on lead" in addition to the carbon and copper. So I refreshed the solution, put the 3 worst baffles and the thread mount back in solution, and gave it another ~24 hours overnight (swirling/shaking it somewhat regularly, this time). And the solution is black again today. I pulled out all the baffles and wiped them off - just paper towel wiping, no scraping or hard work. There is noticeable deposit reduction again - I can see most of the interior walls and deposits are mostly just remaining in the nooks and crannies. Much improvement. I think this confirms that the lack of complete performance on the baffles previously was due to the solution getting all used up. These were the 3 worst baffles and now look pretty decent inside and out.      I'm not going to keep soaking and wiping these to complete cleanliness seeing as I've already used ~9oz of my 16oz bottle. Although also keep in mind this was a quite neglected 15 year old rimfire silencer with two rebuilds on it that I don't bother cleaning (when it fills up I just pay for a rebuild, LOL). Conclusion: This product works, is low effort, and works on aluminum! At this point I am completely confident that, given enough simple soak/swirl/wipe cycles and using enough volume of solution to handle the level of fouling, that the baffles would eventually get completely clean. And likely much much faster with something more volumes (that could handle lots of fouling before being used up) like a heated ultrasonic cleaner. Moreover, if one were to do this treatment to rimfire baffles regularly and not let mounts/baffles get too caked up, it would seem to be pretty effortless. After all, it had the blackout mount nearly spotless in just a few hours. HOWEVER I DO NOT THINK that simply spraying a few squirts on rimfire baffles will affect much change because it heavier fouling does appear to "use up" and neutralize a fair bit of product. But I'll bet you can get away with cleaning centerfire suppressors parts or mounts using significantly less solution; maybe even just spraying it on and shooting it clean like they say (although that makes me cringe because whatever this shit is and it's lead/copper byproducts are is going to end up all over your face and in your lungs... I think I'll just rinse them clean and let them dry before shooting, LOL).  |
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Quoted: Interested in how this would do on a lead caked rimfire suppressor baffle stack. Here you go… SWR Warlock (Aluminum baffles). Probably a couple bricks of CCI Standard (uncoated lead). I don’t keep track of rounds and I don’t clean suppressors, so it was a pain to get apart. I reused the solution I used on the flash hider and topped it off to get everything submerged. So it’s a bit used up already. Before… Macaroni in the pot; that’s some wet ass… 
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Quoted: I was gonna wait for a rimfire baffle cleaning. Now I see it's in-process. That outcome will decide if I'm a buyer. I’ll give it 24 hours. There’s a non trivial amount of crap in these… the caking is like 2X thicker than the walls. The scoops around the cones are completely filled in, but I’m surprised how clean the cones and notches are. In hindsight, I probably should have weighed them before and after and removed the orings. |
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In on this for scientific results! Added a link for the lazy: https://www.breakthroughclean.com/breakthrough-clean-technologies-suppressor-cleaner-16oz-clear |
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Quoted: $11.00 shipping. FU. 16oz: https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/026509074502 1 Gal: https://gun.deals/search/apachesolr_search/026509074533 |
| $75 shipped for a gallon from battlehawkarmory.com if this stuff works that good, im buying 2 |
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Quoted: $75 shipped for a gallon from battlehawkarmory.com if this stuff works that good, im buying 2 Lanbos is GTG. I've ordered from them a bunch before. Shipping is a little slow, but never had an issue. |
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5.5 hour update: I know I said I was going to wait 24 hours but decided to check progress. Pulled one out and simply wiped it with a paper towel. No scrubbing or scraping. The nooks on the inside and the scallops on the face still have some hard caking… everything else is squeaky clean. The anodizing appears unaffected. I’m pleased so far. I’m going to put this one back in and leave the other baffles untouched and check at the 24 hour mark. |
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Quoted: That looks pretty damn clean. I'd like to see the msds to see what chemicals are in this. I would not use that serving dish for serving anymore... got yelled at by the wife. With a cupboard full of corelle, I'm not sure it makes a difference at this point. 
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That's pretty impressive. I'd be very happy with that. Suppressors don't need to be surgically clean. The instructions also say to fire some supersonics after soaking 24hrs to blow out the loosened fouling. http://images.salsify.com/image/upload/s--E_VQpyt---/ggsci72ubvjoo4vgd2dp.pdf |
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Here is a thread from june 23 on it, no tests thou just questions. Someone posted a link to download the msds. https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/Breakthrough-Clean-Suppressor-Cleaner/20-544793/?page=1&anc=bottom#bottom |
| I wonder if this is basically the same chemical composition as Bore Tech C4 carbon remover, which I've had similarly impressive results with on carbon fouled parts. Curious if anyone out there has tried both and can comment. |
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Quoted: I wonder if this is basically the same chemical composition as Bore Tech C4 carbon remover, which I've had similarly impressive results with on carbon fouled parts. Curious if anyone out there has tried both and can comment. I was thinking Hoppes Elite. That stuff impressed me when it came out but I never used it on cans. |
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Thanks. I was really starting to worry there wouldn't be anything to hate this company for. |
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Quoted: Hmm this may be just the ticket for soaking my sealed 9mm cans. I've never heard of this stuff before. I need to make a PVC tube for use with this stuff. |
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Even the preliminary results appear to be compelling. I snagged a gallon, thanks for posting this! ETA: Since the suppressor cleaning people are milling about in this thread, does anyone know of somewhere that sells a reasonably priced 1/2x28 and/or 5/8x24 threaded bolt to use as a "suppressor plug" for cleaning purposes? |
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Quoted: Here you go… SWR Warlock (Aluminum baffles). Probably a couple bricks of CCI Standard (uncoated lead). I don’t keep track of rounds and I don’t clean suppressors, so it was a pain to get apart. I reused the solution I used on the flash hider and topped it off to get everything submerged. So it’s a bit used up already. Before… Macaroni in the pot; that’s some wet ass… Hell yeah, I ask and OP delivers. Interested in the after 24 hour results today. Thanks for dunking them in completely dirty with zero pre-cleaning. Very interested in how it handles lead. Tons of options for removing carbon out there, mostly interested in the hard lead deposits on rimfire baffles. Right now I hand scrape and wet SS pin tumble to remove lead. |
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Quoted: Nice that it on Amazon. Gonna have to give it a try. If it works I could have saved myself $300 for a .22 suppressor recore. Amazon prices are pretty high. Person above posted gun.deals links for this. 1 Gallon at Lanbos for $63 before shipping is better than the $106 Amazon listing. |
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Quoted: Amazon prices are pretty high. Person above posted gun.deals links for this. 1 Gallon at Lanbos for $63 before shipping is better than the $106 Amazon listing. Sold out. |
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