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Posted: 5/31/2025 4:37:49 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Namsag][Edited]
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I remember when those came out. Saw the first one at the 2013 SHOT Show (and I was wearing a shirt with the logo of my employer's business The proprietary ammo obviously limited its appeal to the mass market. |
Steve Rose - RAS
"Let your gun therefore be the constant companion of your walks"
Thomas Jefferson - 1785
"Let your gun therefore be the constant companion of your walks"
Thomas Jefferson - 1785
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Today is March 16th and I decided to stop looking at this thing and do something. Kind of formulating a plan today and did decide on the length of the barrel. Almost! It's a 9" or 10" The barrel on this thing is heavy and thick walled for sure. 18" Just ouside the receiver (1.5" from breach opening) it is 1.170 diameter. At the 9" mark, it is still 1.060 diameter. I could put an 8ga choke in this! Does that even exist? Thats a wall thickness of about 165 thousandths of an inch, nearly 3/16th of an inch per side. It will get a choke. Most likely a Rem choke as I have a lots of Rem chokes. The ammo is buckshot, 1200FPS with a 1.1oz load, 9 pellets. Pretty much a standard load and the only ammo ever made for the RAS 12. It's a ball tipped rimless polymer shotshell of propriatary design. It works really well. So what is on the list to do to get started? Get permission from Uncle Sam to do this. Might be an issue for me as I want to use an 80% lower I finished for testing. I might want to alter the feed area of this lower, to enhance the feeding if needed. I have other DPMS lowers already stamped that I can use as well. Cut the barrel to the desired length. A bit longer for finishing later. About the 9 1/8" mark is where the gas block diameter started on the original barrel. Diameter of .930 Good place to cut. Original gas ports were located 10 3/4" down the barrel leaving 7" of barrel for dwell time. 4 gas ports will be used and start 4 1/2" from the breach. That will leave over 4" of barrel after the ports. Good dwell time. The gas block. The factory block is 2.600 long. Requires that much barrel to mount it. I may do a custom version needing about half that much length. Adds other benefits, adds creation issue. Make a new piston. Original piston diameter will be kept. Op rod will be less than half original length. More shortly and pictures. |
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I have no clue on how compatible it is, but check out the JTS M12AR. I just picked one up for $150 from PSA and want to SBS it. Mark Serbu did a review on it and I saw a SBS version in this forum which put it on my radar. Maybe the mags could work for you at the minimum. It is a piston AR 12ga. that looks to me like it was, to put it nicely, inspired by this upper. It isn't compatible with most AR15 or AR10 parts, but it does use some like the fire control group. The buffer tube is a fixed carbine looking thing and can be switched out for an AR compatible one. |
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Originally Posted By swampfoxoutdoors: Just think with 3d printing rapidly expanding you can start rolling your own rounds. Yes, I had contemplated that after printing a bunch V3 adapters. The rounds originally cost $3 a round. Way too much. The only way would be to comercially print them. Thats way more expensive than $3 a round. These are reloadable. Where to find the bullet nose? Guess I could create the nose. Have to give that some real thought. |
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Originally Posted By ihon: The JTS M12AR mags will not readily fit in an AR-10 mag well. I tried it in my POF Rouge and it's a no go. The metal clip on the top back of the mag is too wide. The front of the JTS mag also has a plastic catch that would need to be filed away. I ordered two of them because they were pretty cheap. They are now paper weights. As you say, the metal feed lips are too wide to fit in an AR .308 lower. Other issues as well. They are propriatary and will only fit in the JTS magwell. I don't think convertable to any other platform. |
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I had to decide what receiver extension I needed to run on this project. Could'nt find any info on what has been used or tried. A carbine tube or a .308 tube. (A5) Difference being 7" inside for the carbine and 7 3/4" inside for the .308 tube. Here is the plan. Start with an A5 tube and a Springco yellow spring. Their weakest spring. I misplaced the spring that came with this upper and I have read it is a lighter spring. Use a standard 2.5" buffer and a 3/4 inch spacer for just the buffer. Mount it in the back of the tube. The spring will use all of the 7 3/4 tube. Yes, I could use a 3.25 inch buffer but I have a 2.5" Kynshot hydralic buffer I want to start with. This will prevent L2 coil bind and yet prevent overtravel on the bolt carrier. The yellow spring is the least power spring Springco makes but it's coil bind is longer than 2.5 inches. So allowing the spring 3/4 inch more room, that problem gets eliminated but still have the lighter spring to start with. I will have the option to move to stronger springs if needed with this set up. I ordered up a couple of Magpul 10 position, mil spec fit, enhanced tubes, SR25/110mm 7 3/4 long. This is where the starting point will be. Should have them by the end of the week. |
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