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Pro chucker 5&7 case feeder review (Page 2 of 2)
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Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
You got a tripod? It'd be cool to mount Your phone on it and get some good footage of it rolling out the cases. I do, I know I can post a vid from my photobucket I just can't find the instructions on how. |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
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WA, USA
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Originally Posted By bm3: I do, I know I can post a vid from my photobucket I just can't find the instructions on how. Originally Posted By bm3: Originally Posted By ChevelleDave: You got a tripod? It'd be cool to mount Your phone on it and get some good footage of it rolling out the cases. I do, I know I can post a vid from my photobucket I just can't find the instructions on how. It's not hard if I can do it.  |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
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Originally Posted By dryflash3:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_168/638569_Picture_Posting_Tutorial__and_Picture_Test_Thread.html It's not hard if I can do it.
sweet thanks 
Originally Posted By dryflash3:
Originally Posted By bm3:
Originally Posted By ChevelleDave:
You got a tripod? It'd be cool to mount Your phone on it and get some good footage of it rolling out the cases. I do, I know I can post a vid from my photobucket I just can't find the instructions on how. It's not hard if I can do it.
sweet thanks
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Pro chucker case feeder
Yes I know I'm missing a bolt , parts run later today. |
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Originally Posted By bm3:
Pro chucker case feeder Yes I know I'm missing a bolt , parts run later today. Nice! |
Very confused on this photo (all the grease in the slot),
Is the block roller not a roller piece on the inside of the block? If not, then would it not be better to just mod the block with a Ball bearing for a roller piece to track the slot cleanly with little to no friction instead? As for the tension spring that hooks to the threads of the bolts, would it not be better to have sleeves that thread onto the bolt threads that have a spring lock channel in them instead (read springs lock onto the bolt sleeves with their own spring lock grooves)? Lastly, don't see the lower plastic button adjuster (the part that lower wedge block pulls out, then the upper two piece clamp parts pushed back in) holding it's adjustments long term instead. With what little you have used the feeder, the plastic is already marr'g/grooving badly already. Speaking of parts, are these silver parts plated steel, or just softer aluminum instead? 
I only ask in regard to longevity, and to point out that the lower and upper button type pieces should have been rollers instead. |
Posted By PlaymoreMinds:
'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...
<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...
<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
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Originally Posted By bm3:
It has a little roller on it. I'll get a pic of it later. Friction Roller on post, with either a end bolt or clip to hold the roller on the stud when it clears the track and comes back down on the back side on the down stroke? If yes, then would not be hard to just change the roller out with a ball bearing instead. Done this way, you will not have to grease the track isntead. As for the lower button plastic piece that is marring quickly, give me a min or two to think of a way of solving that friction point as well. Ball bearing would be ideal, but would require the lower wedge and upper clamp bump blocks to be changed as well. Added, think I have it figured out. Piece of metal round stock that is center threaded that has a top set screw that will allow you to thread the shaft in and out on it for the needed depth adjustment like the plastic knob does, and on the sides of the round stock piece, either slot it for two steel rollers slightly larger than the round stock to fit inside the slots, that the roller that will ride on thread in "through pins" to allow them to free spin instead. Hence if the pins get grubby from debris, a snap to thread the retainer pins back out to clean the pins and roller/re-grease and reinstall them. Or, just install two side roller ball bearings with cap bolts on the ends of the round stock instead. On the top piece button piece that rides the long cam, just center mill the current knob for a captive ball bearing if is does not currently have one, to solve any binding/marring problems there long term instead. 
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Posted By PlaymoreMinds:
'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...
<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...
<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
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Originally Posted By Dano523:
Friction Roller on post, with either a end bolt or clip to hold the roller on the stud when it clears the track and comes back down on the back side on the down stroke? If yes, then would not be hard to just change the roller out with a ball bearing instead. Done this way, you will not have to grease the track isntead. As for the lower button plastic piece that is marring quickly, give me a min or two to think of a way of solving that friction point as well. Ball bearing would be ideal, but would require the lower wedge and upper clamp bump blocks to be changed as well. Originally Posted By Dano523:
Originally Posted By bm3:
It has a little roller on it. I'll get a pic of it later. Friction Roller on post, with either a end bolt or clip to hold the roller on the stud when it clears the track and comes back down on the back side on the down stroke? If yes, then would not be hard to just change the roller out with a ball bearing instead. Done this way, you will not have to grease the track isntead. As for the lower button plastic piece that is marring quickly, give me a min or two to think of a way of solving that friction point as well. Ball bearing would be ideal, but would require the lower wedge and upper clamp bump blocks to be changed as well. It's a little plastic roller on a bolt. A bearing would be nice but not nessiary because it works fine. I use grease on anything tha rubs on other parts , it's just me. The gates RCBS is using are fine but I can see them wearing over time. |
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Is the side roller track piece made out of plastic,anodized aluminum, or steel?
Even with a roller ball bearing on the block to lessen a great deal of friction, can see if the feed block itself gets grubby with debies, could cause some binding on the feed blocks to transfer into block roller pressure to the track groove to start denting/marring the roller side track groove on anything short of it being steel instead. Hence some parts are going to be needed to be kept lubed, but any lube does attach/collect debris quickly, and not something that you can quickly blow away with compressed air isntead. Hence the more roller bearing points you can add into the bearing areas, the less open lube that has to be used, and the easy to just blow away any debris that collect on the machine when it in use instead. |
Posted By PlaymoreMinds:
'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...
<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...
<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
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Originally Posted By bm3:
It's make out of anodized aluminum. I can see it getting dirty. I think you just have to do regular maintenance . That's what I plan on doing anyway. On the positive note, it is RCBS, so when you wear something out that is simple/inexpensive, they do tend to send a few for replacements of the needed parts if they are wearing out on the quicker side instead. So let the long term testing begin, and lets see what are the parts that need to be replace first (either from crashes, or just wearing out instead)!
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Posted By PlaymoreMinds:
'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...
<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...
<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
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I just found a great video from RCBS on installing the "RCBS Case Feeder"!
It answered all of my questions. Nice product! Shows the roller that goes in the slot.....may not hold up for a mass production machine, but betcha it'll last just fine in normal use. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LSHxspROqrU Somebody with a current membership might want to post it here more direct.
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I see that Brownell's special order has come through on my.... get this....
"SPL PRO CHUCKER FEEDER SM/LG TUBE" Not the feeder... just the large and small tubes. Feeder itself is still on order. I will post a review when they get here.... Not much to say outside of diameters. I am curious to know if they will work on really big cases. |
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Received the Pro Chucker Case Feeder Tubes (LG/SM)... part number 88916.
It comes with three metal bushings and two tubes (large and small). ID's of tubes are approximately .625 and .36". The large one was the one I was most interested in. It seems to be large enough for both of my biggest cases, 45-70 and 338 Lapua. Not sure I would ever load 338 lapua on a progressive but knowing I could for some reason makes me feel better. I would post pics and more info but I don't have any idea which end is up on these things since I don't have the full feeder (still on order). For ~$25 for this shipped, I think I did ok. The tubes are not the thin cheap tubes you buy from Petmountain.com for the cheap Hornady bullet feeder. These have a bit more beef to them. They also have cuts in all the right places (I hope). Not in a rush for the feeder but anytime, RCBS & Brownells.. anytime... |
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Originally Posted By djryan13:
Received the Pro Chucker Case Feeder Tubes (LG/SM)... part number 88916. It comes with three metal bushings and two tubes (large and small). ID's of tubes are approximately .625 and .36". The large one was the one I was most interested in. It seems to be large enough for both of my biggest cases, 45-70 and 338 Lapua. Not sure I would ever load 338 lapua on a progressive but knowing I could for some reason makes me feel better. I would post pics and more info but I don't have any idea which end is up on these things since I don't have the full feeder (still on order). For ~$25 for this shipped, I think I did ok. The tubes are not the thin cheap tubes you buy from Petmountain.com for the cheap Hornady bullet feeder. These have a bit more beef to them. They also have cuts in all the right places (I hope). Not in a rush for the feeder but anytime, RCBS & Brownells.. anytime... The cuts in the tubes are the bottom. |
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Any wear or signs that something will need to be replace in the next 5K to 10K of rounds?
Also, with 5K round at least, how is the new primer slider working/did you go through a few of them by now? |
Posted By PlaymoreMinds:
'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...
<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
'Twas not the <cough> sweet and innocent <cough> PlaymoreMinds...
<---skips away in frilly skirts to Candyland, leaving gutters and snorkels FAR behind.
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Originally Posted By AR-Bossman:
What does it look like running full tilt? Does any of the mechanism start to bounce or de-stabilize? Originally Posted By AR-Bossman:
Originally Posted By bm3:
I've put 3k of .45 an 2k of 9mm through it now. I have not had any problems what so ever. What does it look like running full tilt? Does any of the mechanism start to bounce or de-stabilize? You can only go so fast but no problems so far. |
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Originally Posted By Dano523:
Any wear or signs that something will need to be replace in the next 5K to 10K of rounds? Also, with 5K round at least, how is the new primer slider working/did you go through a few of them by now? I can see replacing some springs on the press over time. I haven't even tried the new slides because I haven't broken one in a while. |
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Finally got one. Installed tonight. RCBS lacks the ability to create useful instruction manuals. They need schematics and/or labels on their horrible pictures.
Lots of adjustability making me think this will be way more reliable than the Hornady. You can only take so much of cases popping all over the place or jamming. However, there is way too much to adjust for each caliber. I am not going to like making adjustments when I switch calibers. Although fewer parts to swap out compared to changing over a Hornady feeder or even a Dillon. So, perhaps in comparison it is ok. I am disappointed that RCBS doesn't include the large and small tubes. They were not expensive to purchase separately, but seems like nonsense as they can't be all that expensive to make. Hornady would (and does) include multiple tubes for example.Granted their feeder is more expensive (but includes a hopper). The tubes only hold a small number of rifle cases. I fit 8 of the 6.5 swede cases (relatively small "large rifle" caliber). I only ran about 65 of them (needed to size). All ran very well. It's worth the ~$120 price tag but not any more. P.S. I got mine at Cabelas too.. gave up on Brownells special order. DO NOT try to order from Walmart.com. They sent me a $9. wheel bearing... When I called, they rushed me a replacement but sent me the same wrong item. They then told me they couldn't correct the item issue and recommended I just get a refund. Apparently, customer service can't report the issue to their warehouse. I couldn't find any other sellers indicating these are in stock. |
Pro chucker 5&7 case feeder review (Page 2 of 2)
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