Armory Sponsor
Posted: 12/15/2024 12:16:49 PM EDT
| Like an itch that I can't scratch, this idea won't go away. For anyone that has done this (pillar bedding) , was the result worth the effort? Have an old Mini with a wood stock and barrel strut that will shoot two inch groups at 50 yards. Also a Mini 30 with the synthetic stock that is over gassed. I bought the gas bushing kit for the mini 30. My regular shop won't do the bushing and the guy recommended made sure I knew how difficut it was going to be.. |
Correlation does not imply causation. Disparate outcomes do not imply disparate treatment.
|
i have bedded the stock on my mini14 using JB Weld, changed out the gas orifice, slicked up the trigger a little and torqued the gas block using the info from PerfectUnion. |
"I came into this world naked, screaming, & covered with someone else`s blood. I plan on going out the same way."
|
Technically, you glass bed the action of a Mini14, as there is no receiver screws pulling it into the stock. There is info. online for doing M-14 type rifles and the concept is pretty much the same. As to the Mini30 gas bushing, it's very easy to do. Just make sure you have the correct allen wrenches and an inch-pound torque wrench. Your "gunsmith is a douche bag. Again, there are videos showing how it's done. |
|
Originally Posted By Stahlgewehr762: Is there any issue with the staking on the gas block screws damaging the threads in the upper gas block, during removal of the screws? Depends on how much the staking displaced metal. However, I've never seen a Ruger factory gas block staking that didn't come loose after I applied the proper tools. Now if someone applied red loctite, etc. to the threads, that might be a different story and a good amount of heat may be called for. |
|
Originally Posted By Stahlgewehr762: The gas block screws are staked by Ruger, from the factory. Hence, you must remove the previously-staked screws in order to remove the gas block. I own three of them. All have had the gas blocks removed and reinstalled. None of them have shot loose. That’s the point. |
|
Originally Posted By Stahlgewehr762: Is there any issue with the staking on the gas block screws damaging the threads in the upper gas block, during removal of the screws? |
|
Originally Posted By Flyboy77: Like an itch that I can't scratch, this idea won't go away. For anyone that has done this (pillar bedding) , was the result worth the effort? Have an old Mini with a wood stock and barrel strut that will shoot two inch groups at 50 yards. Also a Mini 30 with the synthetic stock that is over gassed. I bought the gas bushing kit for the mini 30. My regular shop won't do the bushing and the guy recommended made sure I knew how difficut it was going to be.. Re: Gas bushing install. This is simple enough and I question your gunsmith's being unwilling to do it. Gas bushing installation instructions Here If your gunsmith won't install the bushings after reading the instructions, suggest finding a new gunsmith. AFAIK, different gas bushing kits for Mini-14 and Mini-30, so use the right kit. |
|
IIRC, Accuracy Systems Inc. has posted pix of their Pillar bedding procedure. IMHO, most users of Syn stocks need not go through this expensive process. Most Syn stock users can "shim" their stocks to tightly fit their receivers. NO bedding required. Personally, BTDT on many different syn stocks. "Loose" fitting wooden stocks are another matter, since such stocks will change in overall fit due to multiple causes--aside from their initially being "loose" in fitment, and so defective. One of the "underlying" causes of "early" Mini-14 "inaccuracy" claims is likely due to ill-fitting Ruger Wooden stocks, amongst many other possible causes. Strongly suggest that a "Tight-fitting" Syn stock is likely "Miles ahead" of an ill-fitting OEM wooden stock. |
Armory Sponsor


