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Posted: 11/2/2024 4:06:10 PM EDT
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Hey guys, first time parkerizing anything whatsoever and got mostly good results but a couple of eye raiser results too that are probably only weird to me due to complete ignorance and being a first timer. All in all very happy, just have a couple things I’m trying to figure out. Just so you know, I used 150 grit aluminum oxide at 90 working psi to prep parts. I’m using Allegheny Arsenal manganese phosphate solution and cooked at a steady 185*. Doing a 1911 build using a whole host of parts, many from a WWII USGI Colt, all of which parkerized beautiful and quickly. The Springfield slide took beautifully too, albeit much darker. The question comes with the following: 1) the mainspring housing is supposedly a Caspian. Its lanyard loop parked great, its mainspring retaining pin didn’t take at all, and the housing itself sizzled and sizzled in the solution, came out mostly black but it all wiped off with the simple brush of a finger. 2) the grip safety is a Clark. This also sizzled and sizzled and unlike the MSH, it took some parkerizing however just look rusted and patina to me. It doesn’t wipe off like the MSH, but it will come off scrubbing with a rag. 3) the thumb safety is from Kings and came out of the bag new and blued. These took parkerizing much better but it’s rubbing off at the slightest touch/use. Any thoughts? Again, very happy with the results but just got some kinks to iron out, learning is never free. Thanks! Attached File |
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I have had the "gray" wipe off like that before particularly when using the new solution for the first time. Normally, if I bead blast the parts again and re-use the solution it will work fine. You may even have to do it a couple more times. The solution seems to work better after it's had a little use. JT |
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Originally Posted By jntmjt1: I have had the "gray" wipe off like that before particularly when using the new solution for the first time. Normally, if I bead blast the parts again and re-use the solution it will work fine. You may even have to do it a couple more times. The solution seems to work better after it's had a little use. JT Thanks @jntmjt1 ! Do you think if the MSH and grip safety were the stainless offerings from Caspian and Clark that they wouldn’t react at all? The pin and a lanyard loop I dropped in were clearly stainless as they had zero reaction whatsoever. I’m just not well versed in alloys and chemical reactions, clearly.  This was in the tank: Attached File |
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Originally Posted By PerfectTurn: Thanks @jntmjt1 ! Do you think if the MSH and grip safety were the stainless offerings from Caspian and Clark that they wouldn’t react at all? Stainless won't do anything at all... Just give it another try or two and I'll bet they work for you. I've had AR15 barrels do the exact same thing, and I've parkerized more of those than I can count. JT |
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I have found something that helps a lot with parts that don't parkerize well or have spotty finish. After blasting, right before putting it into the tank, dip the part in hydrochloric acid (concrete cleaner) for approximately 5-10 minutes and rinse, which will give a very good even fine surface roughness. Most professional parkerizing and bluing services will do this prior to putting stuff into the tank for the most even finish. |
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Thanks guys! So… the problem was time. For WWII 1911A1 components, I dropped them in and they were done in 2-3 mins. They stopped bubbling and it obvious as could be. The grip safety, thumb safety and MSH bubbled until the end of time. I tried them today with the same problem and thought let’s just try 2 minutes…. Sure enough, still bubbling but pulled them and got excellent results. So what I noticed is that some steels will stop bubbling, others will not, and for those, they’re no longer parkerizing but are etching/corroding I guess? You just just have to monitor and pull at an appropriate time. Lesson learned, can’t ask for anything more than that! |
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