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Posted: 6/9/2026 8:14:22 AM EDT
[Last Edit: AK-12][Edited]
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I was gifted one of these rifles for Christmas back in December, and now that I'm back stateside I've finally had the opportunity to play around with it. This is one of the recent production DSA rifles made on a NOS FN receiver forging, finish machined by DSA as a type 3. It also has a NOS FN lower receiver, folding stock assembly, charging handle assembly, and combo device. It has an 18" barrel, which from what I understand is the correct length for a bipod cut barrel, rather than the 17.3" barrel that some sources state is part of the 50.63 configuration. I haven't been able to find much about these posted anywhere, though there are some threads on FAL Files about otherwise similar rifles DSA produced about a year prior with similar parts content but with lightweight lowers. It is the first FAL I've owned, though I have shot and held quite a few others. One of those was an SA-48 that I stupidly didn't buy for $1800 right as Covid was kicking off.  It came with one DSA steel mag which looks and locks in place alright. I also have 20 various surplus magazines that I've accumulated over the past few months-half of which are South African from Frontier Armory, and half of which are good and excellent condition mags from Apex of various manufacture (there's at least one Israeli and I believe a few are Belgian). I have not had an opportunity to shoot it yet and see whether DSA has sorted out their magazines. A few questions before I get it to the range: what is the recommended technique for zeroing with the holland rear sight? Also, what is the preferred method for getting the gas system adjusted properly? 
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Also, what is the preferred method for getting the gas system adjusted properly? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/509384/4535-3775853.jpg On my DSA Lightweight Tactical SA58, I start by dialing the gas aperture wide open (largest opening dial position) then fire a round, close one click, fire a round, close one click, until it starts cycling 100% of the time with a given ammo, then I go one click past that. You can close the gas aperture further if needed, for dirty conditions, just bear in mind it will give you more recoil and wear things faster. I would not close it all the way unless I was in a sand pit in the boogaloo. |
"According to Argonne National Laboratory, it takes 100 pounds of battery in an EV to go a distance achieved by only one pound of gasoline in an ICE vehicle"
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Originally Posted By _DR: On my DSA Lightweight Tactical SA58, I start by dialing the gas aperture wide open (largest opening dial position) then fire a round, close one click, fire a round close one click, until it starts cycling 100% of the time with a given ammo, then I go one past that. You can close the gas aperture further if needed, for dirty conditions, just bear in mind it will give you more recoil and wear things faster. I would not close it all the way unless I was in a sand pit in the boogaloo. This... But a slight variation. I forgot where I read it years ago. Open the gas aperture. Put one round in a magazine, let the bolt chamber the round, then fire the chambered round. If the bolt doesn't hold open, dial the gas aperture down more. Continue repeating until the bolt holds open after firing the round. Then close the gas aperture 2 additional clicks. |
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Originally Posted By 1P29: This... But a slight variation. I forgot where I read it years ago. Open the gas aperture. Put one round in a magazine, let the bolt chamber the round, then fire the chambered round. If the bolt doesn't hold open, dial the gas aperture down more. Continue repeating until the bolt holds open after firing the round. Then close the gas aperture 2 additional clicks. Originally Posted By 1P29: Originally Posted By _DR: On my DSA Lightweight Tactical SA58, I start by dialing the gas aperture wide open (largest opening dial position) then fire a round, close one click, fire a round close one click, until it starts cycling 100% of the time with a given ammo, then I go one past that. You can close the gas aperture further if needed, for dirty conditions, just bear in mind it will give you more recoil and wear things faster. I would not close it all the way unless I was in a sand pit in the boogaloo. This... But a slight variation. I forgot where I read it years ago. Open the gas aperture. Put one round in a magazine, let the bolt chamber the round, then fire the chambered round. If the bolt doesn't hold open, dial the gas aperture down more. Continue repeating until the bolt holds open after firing the round. Then close the gas aperture 2 additional clicks. That is my recollection as well. 2 clicks more closed than the lock back point. Unless your life is on the line probably setting it just enough to lock back is fine. |
The only hyphenated names I like are cartridge names......30-06, 30-40, 38-55 etc.
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Originally Posted By SteelonSteel: That is my recollection as well. 2 clicks more closed than the lock back point. Unless your life is on the line probably setting it just enough to lock back is fine. Originally Posted By SteelonSteel: Originally Posted By 1P29: Originally Posted By _DR: On my DSA Lightweight Tactical SA58, I start by dialing the gas aperture wide open (largest opening dial position) then fire a round, close one click, fire a round close one click, until it starts cycling 100% of the time with a given ammo, then I go one past that. You can close the gas aperture further if needed, for dirty conditions, just bear in mind it will give you more recoil and wear things faster. I would not close it all the way unless I was in a sand pit in the boogaloo. This... But a slight variation. I forgot where I read it years ago. Open the gas aperture. Put one round in a magazine, let the bolt chamber the round, then fire the chambered round. If the bolt doesn't hold open, dial the gas aperture down more. Continue repeating until the bolt holds open after firing the round. Then close the gas aperture 2 additional clicks. That is my recollection as well. 2 clicks more closed than the lock back point. Unless your life is on the line probably setting it just enough to lock back is fine. Not sure all FALs have the LRBHO? I added a BHO, but it was to actuate lock the bolt back manually even with a full mag or no mag. |
"According to Argonne National Laboratory, it takes 100 pounds of battery in an EV to go a distance achieved by only one pound of gasoline in an ICE vehicle"
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Originally Posted By AK-12: Is the gas collar just stiff when they are new, or is there a recommended tool to use for adjusting it? I feel like I shouldn't need a specialty tool to adjust the gas collar. It definitely has LRBHO Very stiff on mine. I worked a little LSA in where the friction points were and worked it for a while, made sure the finger grip surface was clean and dry, and it was much better. Should get easier with use. |
"According to Argonne National Laboratory, it takes 100 pounds of battery in an EV to go a distance achieved by only one pound of gasoline in an ICE vehicle"
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Originally Posted By 1P29: This... But a slight variation. I forgot where I read it years ago. Open the gas aperture. Put one round in a magazine, let the bolt chamber the round, then fire the chambered round. If the bolt doesn't hold open, dial the gas aperture down more. Continue repeating until the bolt holds open after firing the round. Then close the gas aperture 2 additional clicks. Originally Posted By 1P29: Originally Posted By _DR: On my DSA Lightweight Tactical SA58, I start by dialing the gas aperture wide open (largest opening dial position) then fire a round, close one click, fire a round close one click, until it starts cycling 100% of the time with a given ammo, then I go one past that. You can close the gas aperture further if needed, for dirty conditions, just bear in mind it will give you more recoil and wear things faster. I would not close it all the way unless I was in a sand pit in the boogaloo. This... But a slight variation. I forgot where I read it years ago. Open the gas aperture. Put one round in a magazine, let the bolt chamber the round, then fire the chambered round. If the bolt doesn't hold open, dial the gas aperture down more. Continue repeating until the bolt holds open after firing the round. Then close the gas aperture 2 additional clicks. I also use the "load one round in the magazine" method, when bolt locks back then close the regulator a couple more clicks. Also look at the ejection pattern. If your brass is going into the next zip code with two extra clicks then maybe back it off one click. Check rims of fired cases too. Generally two extra clicks is the sweet spot. |
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Originally Posted By AK-12: Is the gas collar just stiff when they are new, or is there a recommended tool to use for adjusting it? I feel like I shouldn't need a specialty tool to adjust the gas collar. It definitely has LRBHO There is a specialized wrench for the gas collar, which engages into the collar slots. It's convenient to have, but not necessary. Can also use a bullet point or a brass punch. Other times the collar can be adjusted by hand if not carboned up too badly. |
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Alright, I was able to use a dowel to rotate the gas collar. When I get it to the range I'll single load magazines and adjust the collar until the bolt locks back, then turn the collar another two clicks. For the zero distance I will probably sight in with M80 3" high at 100 yards. |
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Originally Posted By 1P29: This... But a slight variation. I forgot where I read it years ago. Open the gas aperture. Put one round in a magazine, let the bolt chamber the round, then fire the chambered round. If the bolt doesn't hold open, dial the gas aperture down more. Continue repeating until the bolt holds open after firing the round. Then close the gas aperture 2 additional clicks. |
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Originally Posted By AK-12: Is the gas collar just stiff when they are new, or is there a recommended tool to use for adjusting it? I feel like I shouldn't need a specialty tool to adjust the gas collar. It definitely has LRBHO |
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Originally Posted By slimslade: Get the StG 58 issue cleaning kit that has the combo tool. Liberty Tree Collectors has them. Originally Posted By slimslade: Originally Posted By AK-12: Is the gas collar just stiff when they are new, or is there a recommended tool to use for adjusting it? I feel like I shouldn't need a specialty tool to adjust the gas collar. It definitely has LRBHO I got mine to were I can rotate mine with my fingers, but I sat down and spun it back and forth while watching a movie for a couple of hours with a grippy glove on. It now is doable with fingers, but still has decent resistance. I like to think I might not have a tool to adjust it with someday when I need to do it. |
"According to Argonne National Laboratory, it takes 100 pounds of battery in an EV to go a distance achieved by only one pound of gasoline in an ICE vehicle"
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Posts:
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KS, USA
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If just shooting for fun or target, don't turn the gas reg in more after the bolt locks open on an empty mag. Felt recoil is softer and less wear on the internals. 2 clicks more closed after lock open is the combat setting. I run all of my FALs just on reliable lock open and no more. My teen daughters enjoyed shooting the FALs this way. Smooth and light recoil. To the BHO question above, I believe it was only some of the Brit's L1A1s that had the BHO pin removed. I have both versions with my L1A1 kit, but I'll use the BHO one when I build it. Brit brass thought it might keep more debris out of the action if it didn't lock open on empty. Let us know how it shoots once you try it out. Cheers! 
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Originally Posted By Fang: The gas regulator can also be adjusted with a bottle opener like the kind is found on a Swiss Army knife. Can also be used to remove the gas tube nut. I put a drop of motor oil periodically on the regulator threads to keep it from getting carbon locked. |
Don't forget about the Trail of Beers Happy Hour!
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On my Para I had with the Holland style rear sight I zeroed it at 50 yds and it was on the steel at 200 as well. I didn't try it past 200 but a slight holdover would probably get you to 300. 200 was as far as we could shoot. The Holland is my favorite Para rear sight. |
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Originally Posted By EMSflyer: On my Para I had with the Holland style rear sight I zeroed it at 50 yds and it was on the steel at 200 as well. I didn't try it past 200 but a slight holdover would probably get you to 300. 200 was as far as we could shoot. The Holland is my favorite Para rear sight. I think they were intended to be used with a 250m zero. I like the para 500m tangent sight myself. |
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