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Posted: 3/31/2023 3:27:11 PM EDT
[Last Edit: BRN-180][Edited]
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Theses are my quick and easy recommend upgrades to the Mini-14 or Mini 30. Current and newer production series. Mini-14 in 5.56 or .300 1911 buffer install like the blue Wilson Combat buffer. Wolff extra power hammer spring. If you choose NO OPTIC then Tech-sites rear sight. ------------------------------------------------------------------- Mini-30 1911 buffer. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/100575788?pid=241631 Wolff extra power hammer spring. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1004848183?pid=184368 Accuracy Systems SS extended firing pin. $69 at Midwayusa. Go full out on reliability and install BOTH spring and pin IMO yet only one may be needed as each carbine is different on extent of primer strike failures. Cut to the chase and install both for extreme reliability. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1025776912?pid=231002 If you choose NO OPTIC then Tech-sites rear sight. |
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A good place to begin would be reading Parts 1-5 of Tips On Accurizing The Mini-14. Almost all of these tips apply to the Mini-30. Keep in mind that the Mini-30 always had a "heavy-profile" barrel, similar to modern Mini-14s, so no "Pencil-Barrel" issues with the Mini-30. I have not yet heard of Mini-14s having issues with light primer strikes, but I certainly have heard of some Mini-30s having issues with some ammo. Then again, I don't hear everything. Installing an "extra" power hammer spring, assuming existing hammer spring is GTG, does not really address the issue of Mini-30 misfires. Installing a slightly longer firing pin, and ensuring the firing pin protrusion is correctly adjusted, appears to have worked out well according to reports from many Mini-30 users. I know nothing about the firing pin from ASI, but ASI has a good reputation. In the past, most folks used longer firing pins from Firingpins.com to good effect. You have choices. Those skilled in the use of caliper-type measuring tools can use such to measure firing pin protrusion; others may need to use a "Firing Pin Protrusion Gauge" from Brownell's. Use search term "firing pin protrusion" on web sites Ruger Forum or Perfect Union. Member/Poster sandog has some experience, and has provided correct firing pin protrusion specs for the Mini-30. |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
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Originally Posted By raf: A good place to begin would be reading Parts 1-5 of Tips On Accurizing The Mini-14. Almost all of these tips apply to the Mini-30. Keep in mind that the Mini-30 always had a "heavy-profile" barrel, similar to modern Mini-14s, so no "Pencil-Barrel" issues with the Mini-30. I have not yet heard of Mini-14s having issues with light primer strikes, but I certainly have heard of some Mini-30s having issues with some ammo. Then again, I don't hear everything. Installing an "extra" power hammer spring, assuming existing hammer spring is GTG, does not really address the issue of Mini-30 misfires. Installing a slightly longer firing pin, and ensuring the firing pin protrusion is correctly adjusted, appears to have worked out well according to reports from many Mini-30 users. I know nothing about the firing pin from ASI, but ASI has a good reputation. In the past, most folks used longer firing pins from Firingpins.com to good effect. You have choices. Those skilled in the use of caliper-type measuring tools can use such to measure firing pin protrusion; others may need to use a "Firing Pin Protrusion Gauge" from Brownell's. Use search term "firing pin protrusion" on web sites Ruger Forum or Perfect Union. Member/Poster sandog has some experience, and has provided correct firing pin protrusion specs for the Mini-30. This ^^^ I agree with raf. Skip the extra power hammer spring. I understand it's what typically breaks firing pins on the Mini 30 because of the hard Berdan primers in Wolf and Tula ammo. Check firing pin protrusion and get an extra firing pin if you are going to use the extra power spring and will be shooting Wolf and Tual ammo. kwg |
| Another thread of interest: Mini-14 and Mini-30 Essential Upgrades and Spare Parts |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
| https://accu-strut.com/main-page.html |
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Teddy the Toad, (w,stte), "The Derpmen"
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Originally Posted By doc_Zox: https://accu-strut.com/main-page.html Completely worthless on new production minis and of questionable value on older ones. Unless you want your Mini to LARP as an M14.... |
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Originally Posted By PRYDE: Completely worthless on new production minis and of questionable value on older ones. Unless you want your Mini to LARP as an M14.... What benefit is obtained from the Accu Strut is dependent on the underlying condition of the Mini, and the ammo used. If the Mini's muzzle is damaged, or a type of ammo is used that is unsuited to that particular Mini's barrel, then the Accu Strut may not allow as much improvement compared to a mechanically sound Mini using the proper ammo. All these factors are explicitly stated on the Accu Strut website by its' manufacturer. |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
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Originally Posted By Colt653: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/2275/250A63F2-DE65-4AD8-97F3-98D3C818CB2C_jpe-2789444.JPG LOL. If you want a hider buy a model that already has one. If you want one on a model that does not have one, pay to have it threaded and done correctly. After market junk like that looks so novice and stupid. |
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Originally Posted By BRN-180: LOL. If you want a hider buy a model that already has one. If you want one on a model that does not have one, pay to have it threaded and done correctly. After market junk like that looks so novice and stupid. They work well at night and have a much better sight picture Lot's of mini's out there built before Ruger offered a factory flash suppressor "novice, and stupid" is everything mini-14 LOL Have a nice day |
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Originally Posted By BRN-180: LOL. If you want a hider buy a model that already has one. If you want one on a model that does not have one, pay to have it threaded and done correctly. After market junk like that looks so novice and stupid. Originally Posted By BRN-180: Originally Posted By Colt653: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/2275/250A63F2-DE65-4AD8-97F3-98D3C818CB2C_jpe-2789444.JPG LOL. If you want a hider buy a model that already has one. If you want one on a model that does not have one, pay to have it threaded and done correctly. After market junk like that looks so novice and stupid. The device linked above, the "Short" Choate muzzle device, is well-made and effective. It is often used by experienced Mini users who have OEM unthreaded barrels, and who want an improved front sight, an effective A2 style flash suppressor, and/or a muzzle device which will accept the GI M-7 bayonet; this latter requires a rear bayonet lug to be installed on the barrel. It's one of the first upgrades suggested for owners of "Pencil" barrel Minis, and often chosen by many other Mini owners who have "Heavy", unthreaded barrels, such as many Mini-30 owners. Also, it has been demonstrated that the added mass of the Choate muzzle device has a beneficial effect on accuracy as regards "Pencil" barrel Minis. The Choate muzzle device has been in production for about 40 years now, perhaps longer. I think that suggests that it is a useful item. Calling it "Aftermarket junk" is mistaken IMHO. |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
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Originally Posted By JEEP3R: Does anyone know the length of OEM Ruger firing pins for Ruger Mini-30? Firingpins.com says length of their pins is 2.726". |
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