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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: Dare you to leave it. That's on the ranger green one for myself. I WILL bedazzle anyone's pack with crappy 8 year old quality chalk drawings on them if anyone requests me to do so. I have a pink chalk sitting in reserve specifically for this reason. (they will wash off with water) |
| Propper brand MOLLE 4K (R+L) shoulder straps and possibly the MOLLE 4K waistbelt seem to check off a lot of boxes for folks using common ALICE and/or DEI plastic frames: Link |
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Originally Posted By raf: Propper brand MOLLE 4K (R+L) shoulder straps and possibly the MOLLE 4K waistbelt seem to check off a lot of boxes for folks using common ALICE and/or DEI plastic frames: Link Not a bad price if they are decent. |
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I haven't handled/used the Propper items linked above, but Propper makes stuff for the US Mil, and says this about the shoulder straps: "Built to Mil-Spec CO-PD-02-02, NSN: 8465-01-673-3517. Part of the MOLLE 4K system". MOLLE 4K pack is roughly size/capacity of Lg ALICE, so items should be compatible in terms of weight capacity. For folks using the ALICE/LBT/LBX metal frames, they might be at least as suitable retrofitted MOLLE 2 Shoulder Straps and Waistbelt. While the MOLLE 2 items are less expensive, and would be my choice on plastic MOLLE frames, the hassle/small expense of dying the UCP items may be a factor. OCP MOLLE items always more expensive than same UCP items. It's at least an option. |
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Originally Posted By raf: I haven't handled/used the Propper items linked above, but Propper makes stuff for the US Mil, and says this about the shoulder straps: "Built to Mil-Spec CO-PD-02-02, NSN: 8465-01-673-3517. Part of the MOLLE 4K system". MOLLE 4K pack is roughly size/capacity of Lg ALICE, so items should be compatible in terms of weight capacity. For folks using the ALICE/LBT/LBX metal frames, they might be at least as suitable retrofitted MOLLE 2 Shoulder Straps and Waistbelt. While the MOLLE 2 items are less expensive, and would be my choice on plastic MOLLE frames, the hassle/small expense of dying the UCP items may be a factor. OCP MOLLE items always more expensive than same UCP items. It's at least an option. Yea, they look like a decent option. If anyone gets a set, post up some better pics and let us know how they work. |
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Waiting on the womenfolk to finish Thanksgiving dinner. Putting together zippers for the antenna zipper slot for the packs. Happy Thanksgiving bros. https://i.ibb.co/1YnyJdH1/signal-2025-11-27-194749-002.jpg I hope you had a good Thanksgiving! |
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Quick update on the packs. Pictures of the main pack front panels - still need to sew the pockets on, along with the bottom corner attachments. (That splinter pack is going to be sick looking btw. I'm super tempted to make one for myself)  I even went to the trouble of doing the inside webbing reinforcement like the originals.  Pictures of the back panels. I need to sew on the radio pockets and the frame pouches on. I cut those last night.  Also pictures of the pouches I made to go on my two packs. They will go on the bottom sides instead of the bottom 3 rows of molle. They are slightly upsized SAW pouches - they hold 2 quart canteens or 2 x nalgene bottles. Or mags I guess. I'm doing the rest of the molle as molle. I think these side pockets are a good base add-on. 
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So I had ordered 10 yards of fabric to do the rain skirts for the main pack body and the 3 exterior pockets and the radio pouches on the inside. I ended up using a little more than 15 yards of fabric, lol. I was lucky I had some packcloth sitting around. Also, now I know why alot of the pack making companies that make MALICE style packs and such have switched over to using zipper pockets (I mean, this isn't the only reason) - it's pretty labor intensive to make this style of pocket with a rain skirt. It'd be way cheaper to do the zipper style pockets instead. Anyways. Picture of the stack of rain skirts for the main pack body that I just finished sewing up. 
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Quick update on the packs. Pictures of the main pack front panels - still need to sew the pockets on, along with the bottom corner attachments. (That splinter pack is going to be sick looking btw. I'm super tempted to make one for myself) https://i.ibb.co/fzYd4v8X/1201251856.jpg I even went to the trouble of doing the inside webbing reinforcement like the originals. https://i.ibb.co/JjByQtrW/1122252321.jpg Pictures of the back panels. I need to sew on the radio pockets and the frame pouches on. I cut those last night. https://i.ibb.co/vChtrDX1/1201251858.jpg Also pictures of the pouches I made to go on my two packs. They will go on the bottom sides instead of the bottom 3 rows of molle. They are slightly upsized SAW pouches - they hold 2 quart canteens or 2 x nalgene bottles. Or mags I guess. I'm doing the rest of the molle as molle. I think these side pockets are a good base add-on. https://i.ibb.co/MDY3Vbvw/1130252324.jpg I like those pouches! What do you think of offering them with molle on the back at some point? They look like they could also accommodate the bottom of a tripod or rifle stock too, with something higher up the pack to lash the top. |
If my wife had another baby and I was in the delivery room, I'd probably look at it and yell "welcome back bitch" and then have the hospital page Norcal. -scuba_steve
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Originally Posted By 2apatriot: I like those pouches! What do you think of offering them with molle on the back at some point? They look like they could also accommodate the bottom of a tripod or rifle stock too, with something higher up the pack to lash the top. Yea, I designed them to take molle on the back. 4 columns. I've got the patterns all done. If anyone wants a pair with their packs, let me know, and I'll make them after all the packs are done. Message me and we can work out details. And yea, I like them because they are multi-purpose. Water, mags, belts of ammo, shelf for something like you said, GP pouch, etc. If you don't care about matching camo or the ability to fit nalgene bottles, these are basically stripped down USAF saw pouches. Just slightly upsized to fit 2 x nalgene bottles. The surplus ones don't fit the nalgene bottles but WILL fit the 2 quart USGI canteens. They only come in USAF digital 'tiger stripe'. I wanted them to fit nalgene bottles (my main water carriage type) so I just made some bigger ones. Plus they'd match the camo on the packs. Looking drippy is half the battle, right?  (the funny thing is that if you know me, I'm totally into the 'mix and match camo' thing and don't really care about matching everything)
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Stack of some of the frame panels (with the foam inserts) for the packs. https://i.ibb.co/HLLJs2rk/1214250037.jpg Pics don't load for me. Anyone else? |
| It’s working now. Wish you had this thread up last week. I already sewed mine up. After I folded it right side out, I didn’t sew the extra line out the outer face, I’m sure it won’t affect anything. I also added a section of webbing across the horizontal span. And as suggested, I put webbing backing on the inner surface to help reinforce it. |
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Originally Posted By cap6888: It’s working now. Wish you had this thread up last week. I already sewed mine up. After I folded it right side out, I didn’t sew the extra line out the outer face, I’m sure it won’t affect anything. I also added a section of webbing across the horizontal span. And as suggested, I put webbing backing on the inner surface to help reinforce it. It's probably fine - I'm surprised, the original alice pack only had one line of stitching on the outer face edges. I went overboard and did 3 anyways. |
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Started working on my second pack. Going to be on a 1606 frame. Let’s call it a cross between an Alice, PLCE, and I guess a FILBE. Started with the back panel because it has the most moving parts….. General overview  " /> " /> " /> " />Strap for top tab on frame  " /> " /> " />Straps for attaching to bottom of frame  " /> " /> " /> " /> " />The two loops at the bottom will be attachment points for the lid/compression straps. I have some nifty gated g hooks that will attach there. I’m going to loop those straps through the frame. This will help hold the pack to the frame and help keep the pack tight to it. |
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Originally Posted By _rory_: Looking great! About what percentage of the sewing do you think you have done? I was going to do an update anyways, so perfect timing. 95% or better done. I'm hoping to get some of the packs done early next week. I'm actually starting to work on the lids today - I finally got the lid seam ripped, it had been all gunked up with the stuff people put on the waterproof lid to seal it. I'm doing the pattern for it today, and cut fabric for them either today or tomorrow. I've got 2 of the packs done other than sewing up the main pack seams. The rest need the pockets sewn onto the front panel (which I'm doing today), then they will all be done other than sewing up the main pack seams. And the lids of course. We should see a trickle of packs this next week, I'm hoping to have them all done by the end of next week if it all goes smoothly. Oh yea. I need to sew the main pack bag snow skirts into them, but that's easy. Note on the lid - I'm going to add an extra 2" to the DEPTH of the lids, because they will be floating and not sewn to the back of the packs. Otherwise they will be regular medium ALICE lids, but with zippers instead of velcro. And the guys who wanted claymore lids, I'll be putting them on the lids of course. |
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It’s snug, but. It overly tight. I probably could’ve sewed it an 1/8 inch tighter on each side. Hopefully it works out ok. The straps for the top tabs should help hold it there. Plus the load lifters run through the opening. The 1606 pad set came with a grab handle sewed onto the frame. But the fit was terrible with the load lifters because they all attached through the same holes. That’s why I made my own handle and sewed it to the pack. |
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Originally Posted By cap6888: It’s snug, but. It overly tight. I probably could’ve sewed it an 1/8 inch tighter on each side. Hopefully it works out ok. The straps for the top tabs should help hold it there. Plus the load lifters run through the opening. The 1606 pad set came with a grab handle sewed onto the frame. But the fit was terrible with the load lifters because they all attached through the same holes. That’s why I made my own handle and sewed it to the pack. Yea, as long as it's not slipping around in there, it'll be fine. |
| I still have my mountain ruck from my time in the Corps. I use it a lot more than I thought, especially here lately. I haul targets and tools up into the hills to setup my range and I found out real fast I need to modernize my ruck. My left pack strap is failing and to say the pack is uncomfortable is an understatement. I'll have to read this post to see what upgrades are suggested. |
f that noise...
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Originally Posted By MK19: I still have my mountain ruck from my time in the Corps. I use it a lot more than I thought, especially here lately. I haul targets and tools up into the hills to setup my range and I found out real fast I need to modernize my ruck. My left pack strap is failing and to say the pack is uncomfortable is an understatement. I'll have to read this post to see what upgrades are suggested. Short answer - new shoulder straps and belt. MAYBE a new frame. Budget: keep frame. MOLLE 2 shoulder straps and MOLLE 2 belt. Get the ACU ones and dye them with RIT dye. (there's another thread with super simple instructions) Cost? $30-40, depending on new or used parts. (Make sure to get the shoulder straps with complete straps, some of them don't come with some of the straps) Mid Range: Various aftermarket belts and shoulder straps on your current frame. Tactical Tailor are the gold standard. OR DEI (the maker of the FILBE frame) makes a frameset that comes with a FILBE frame, shoulder straps, and belt. They are quite nice for the money. Cost for either option? $200-250ish. (Note that there are alot of other options in this range. These are the 'go to' ones though) Gucci: Tactical Tailor Frame (get it from Grey Ghost Gear when they run a sale, their frames are made by Tactical Tailor) or the Frontier Resolve frame. Both are $200-250 (less if you get the Grey Ghost Gear frames on sale) and the Dust Aspirations Full Joyride straps / belt set OR one of the other straps / belt sets. (Another $250ish, so $400-500 total) Edit: There's also a bunch of smaller, DIY mods you can do to your pack yourself. Updated fastex style buckles, add a rain skirt in the main pocket, compression straps, etc. Ask if you want some more ideas. |
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: OR DEI (the maker of the FILBE frame) makes a frameset that comes with a FILBE frame, shoulder straps, and belt. They are quite nice for the money. @MK19 See my pics above. I got the DEI Mountaineering Pad set with 1606 frame for $200 shipped straight from them. Big improvement over the Molle straps. |
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Originally Posted By cap6888: @MK19 See my pics above. I got the DEI Mountaineering Pad set with 1606 frame for $200 shipped straight from them. Big improvement over the Molle straps. Yup. This is the best 'one purchase fixes all' option. There are cheaper options, and better options, but this one is right off the shelf, one purchase. It comes assembled and ready to go and once you price out piecing together your own, this one is almost as cheap as anything else. If you're coming from a stock ALICE straps and belt, this one will totally change what you think of the pack. |
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Originally Posted By cap6888: @MK19 See my pics above. I got the DEI Mountaineering Pad set with 1606 frame for $200 shipped straight from them. Big improvement over the Molle straps. This? https://www.deigear.com/product-page/mountaineering-style-pad-set |
f that noise...
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Got the first lid done. This is one with the claymore lid. The regular ones will be the same, without the pouch on top, but with molle instead. There are going to be a few tiny tweaks, but it turned out pretty well. It's the same size as the regular Medium ALICE, but with 2 inches added to the depth. The pouch is the same sizes as the various claymore lid pouches I've seen online have stated, give or take an inch or two. It's about the average of what I've seen. I'm going to play around with how to attach straps to the lid. Right now I'm running it loose, and am going to throw a couple triglides in there to let you guys dial it in how tight you want it (ie, make the straps adjustable). I'm going to do one sewn down over the top, and one sewn down between the pouch and the lid. If anyone wants something specific along those lines, let me know and I'll TRY and do it that way for your lid. 
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You guys who have a stock Medium ALICE, looks like EGL makes sustainment pouches and small zipper pouches to fit the stock Medium ALICE packs without having to sew them on or do other big mods. They aren't listed on EGL's site, but they are referenced here (link below), with pics of them too. You have to email him about those pouches. No idea on cost. (EGL is one of the OG custom gear guys, he's a good guy to deal with) https://www.instagram.com/bgtlab/p/DPtttj1jK_0/?img_index=1 |
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: Got the first lid done. This is one with the claymore lid. The regular ones will be the same, without the pouch on top, but with molle instead. There are going to be a few tiny tweaks, but it turned out pretty well. It's the same size as the regular Medium ALICE, but with 2 inches added to the depth. The pouch is the same sizes as the various claymore lid pouches I've seen online have stated, give or take an inch or two. It's about the average of what I've seen. I'm going to play around with how to attach straps to the lid. Right now I'm running it loose, and am going to throw a couple triglides in there to let you guys dial it in how tight you want it (ie, make the straps adjustable). I'm going to do one sewn down over the top, and one sewn down between the pouch and the lid. If anyone wants something specific along those lines, let me know and I'll TRY and do it that way for your lid. https://i.postimg.cc/C5dBhGrd/signal-2025-12-22-023714-002.jpg Looks good, though if I had my druthers I'd probably take mine smaller than that. Looks like a top hat from this angle. |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: Looks good, though if I had my druthers I'd probably take mine smaller than that. Looks like a top hat from this angle. I can drop an inch off of yours if you want. I was just running off of the sizes listed on everyone else's lids - they are all 4" tall. Most are 11-12" wide and 7-8" deep. This one is 11"x7" and 4" tall. |
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: I can drop an inch off of yours if you want. I was just running off of the sizes listed on everyone else's lids - they are all 4" tall. Most are 11-12" wide and 7-8" deep. This one is 11"x7" and 4" tall. Nah. I appreciate it. Probably just perspective more than anything. I'll go with the artists vision. |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: Nah. I appreciate it. Probably just perspective more than anything. I'll go with the artists vision. It does have a boonie cap look to it, lol. Once you tighten the straps down, it'll scrunch down nicely I think. I AM thinking about making the sides of the lid itself a half inch or an inch wider. Right now they are the same size as a regular medium alice. |
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: It does have a boonie cap look to it, lol. Once you tighten the straps down, it'll scrunch down nicely I think. I AM thinking about making the sides of the lid itself a half inch or an inch wider. Right now they are the same size as a regular medium alice. For sure on the scrunch. I'm not against the idea of growing the lid a hair. |
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Originally Posted By Ex_Sanguine_Nation: For sure on the scrunch. I'm not against the idea of growing the lid a hair. I added 3/4" to each side of the main base of the lid. (not all 4 sides, just 2 of the sides, the ones to the right and left of the zippers basically) Left the claymore pouch the same size. Got all the pockets sewn on, so all the panels are done. I'm cutting the lids out tonight. I'll be sewing the main seams up and binding tape on them this week, we'll have some packs done this weekend probably. |
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Originally Posted By marnsdorff: I added 3/4" to each side of the main base of the lid. (not all 4 sides, just 2 of the sides, the ones to the right and left of the zippers basically) Left the claymore pouch the same size. Got all the pockets sewn on, so all the panels are done. I'm cutting the lids out tonight. I'll be sewing the main seams up and binding tape on them this week, we'll have some packs done this weekend probably. Neat. Hope you are having a Merry Christmas! |
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So I'm looking for a couple guys who want to test and beat on a sleep carrier for the Medium ALICE. And a couple guys who want to beat on the beavertail / compression panel I'm going to make to go with the sleep carrier, but using other carriers / dry bags to see how they work with other inserts. Basically, it'll be 2 pieces - a slimmer sleep carrier bag than the USGI MOLLE sleep carrier bag designed to fit under the Medium ALICE and not bulge out everywhere, allowing it to work really well with beltkit....and a beavertail / compression panel that connects directly to the bottom of the ALICE pack frame (or the DEI, or the Frontier Resolve, etc.) and is used to compress / stabilize the sleep carrier bag so it doesn't sag / sway / etc. (and can be used for other things as a regular beavertail) I need feedback from someone who will actually beat on them in the field, let me know what I can adjust on them, etc. I've got a couple guys I know already on the list to get them, I'm looking for a couple more. If anyone wants to test them, let me know - I usually make these for materials cost + shipping for guys to test stuff, which shouldn't be much for these items. |
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