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Posted: 2/22/2025 6:17:17 PM EDT
[Last Edit: GimmeLibertee][Edited]
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Is there a trick to keeping these secure? Twice now I’ve properly de-greased (both screw and spur threads), blue loctited, and snugged the set screw to the point of bending the hex wrench, yet after only a few shots it comes loose. Will red loctite work better? I hate to even suggest it, but what about JB Weld in the small visible gap between the top of hammer and underside of offset spur? Is that guaranteed to hold it, understanding that if so it’s permanent? I’m half tempted to just leave it off all together because I can still work the hammer without it, it’s just slightly awkward. |
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You can use Loctite Red, but you'd have to use heat to get it off again, and that's something you have to be careful with not to over heat. Another option is Vibra-Tite. This is a locker applied and allowed to cure, then installed. It remains in a gummy form and the screw can be removed and reinstalled several times. Also, check the screw to insure it's not undersized, and you might try a lock screw that has an end that bites into the part. That will also leave a divot on your hammer that won't come off. Other tricks are to use a small flat punch to deform a few threads on the screw near the Allen head end to increase the hold. Another is to use a pair of small Vise-Grips to deform some threads. Tighten the Vise-Grip until it contacts the threads near the top end, then very slightly tighten them and clamp down. The idea is to JUST slightly deform the threads. It doesn't take much. Test fit and when it takes a little force to get the screw in it should hold much better. |
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Originally Posted By dfariswheel: You can use Loctite Red, but you'd have to use heat to get it off again, and that's something you have to be careful with not to over heat. Another option is Vibra-Tite. This is a locker applied and allowed to cure, then installed. It remains in a gummy form and the screw can be removed and reinstalled several times. Also, check the screw to insure it's not undersized, and you might try a lock screw that has an end that bites into the part. That will also leave a divot on your hammer that won't come off. Other tricks are to use a small flat punch to deform a few threads on the screw near the Allen head end to increase the hold. Another is to use a pair of small Vise-Grips to deform some threads. Tighten the Vise-Grip until it contacts the threads near the top end, then very slightly tighten them and clamp down. The idea is to JUST slightly deform the threads. It doesn't take much. Test fit and when it takes a little force to get the screw in it should hold much better. The screw is properly sized. I have used vibra-tite before, but I’m not sure why it would work better than blue loctite for this application. |
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Originally Posted By TGWLDR: Red Loctite is easily defeated with heat. Yes. Same with JB Weld. JB will also fill in the considerable loose fit of the RugMar hammer extensions. Have done several for myself and others. Not one has loosened. If you're new to this, use alcohol to clean off the uncured JB -same as with other epoxies. |
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Originally Posted By Minshooter: Yes. Same with JB Weld. JB will also fill in the considerable loose fit of the RugMar hammer extensions. Have done several for myself and others. Not one has loosened. If you're new to this, use alcohol to clean off the uncured JB -same as with other epoxies. Where exactly are you putting the JB Weld? In the space between the bottom of the offset spur and top of the hammer spur? |
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Originally Posted By VaFish: Soldering iron on the screw works very well without over heating the other parts. Originally Posted By VaFish: Originally Posted By TGWLDR: Red Loctite is easily defeated with heat. Soldering iron on the screw works very well without over heating the other parts. +1 |
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Keep in mind, there are two different hammer spurs. Some for older Marlins, (1950's on) and newer, current production. They are not interchangeable. The thumb rest of the 1958 hammer has a taper. For example, I have a 336 made in 1958 and one made in 1996, The hammers are different dimensions and the wrong version will not stay on at all. |
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Originally Posted By John-in-austin: Keep in mind, there are two different hammer spurs. Some for older Marlins, (1950's on) and newer, current production. They are not interchangeable. The thumb rest of the 1958 hammer has a taper. For example, I have a 336 made in 1958 and one made in 1996, The hammers are different dimensions and the wrong version will not stay on at all. Yes good point. However, this is a new Ruger made Marlin with the hammer spur that came in the box. |
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Originally Posted By VaFish: Soldering iron on the screw works very well without over heating the other parts. Originally Posted By VaFish: Originally Posted By TGWLDR: Red Loctite is easily defeated with heat. Soldering iron on the screw works very well without over heating the other parts. Absolutely. |
"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless
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