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Let’s Rust Blue A Rifle! (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 12/29/2019 6:09:55 PM EDT
[Last Edit: PR361][Edited]
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From time to time this comes up here, so I thought I’d do a step by step how to of how I do it.
I’ve rust blued a lot of guns, makes me happy to bring a beater back to some semblance of dignity I’m certainly not turning out Turnbull quality work, but I actually prefer to shoot for period correct, as in, a 100 year old gun shouldn’t look brand new, at least in my eyes. Plus it’s easier! 
So here’s our subject; a Savage Model 23 in 25-20. It was manufactured sometime in the 1920s or 30’s, I haven’t tried to find a serial number or look it up. I bought it in a Pawn shop in the 1980’s for $60, it looked like its last use had been as a club. I cleaned it up, steel wooled it, cold blued the metal, sanded the stock, reshaped the clubby grip to my liking, and had it drilled and tapped for scope mounts. Since then, it’s been hunting a few times, out to the range a few times, but mostly sat in the back of the safe. There’s a decent collectible market for them, I’ve seen them go fo $600, there’s one on Gunbroker today starting bid $489. Mine is not a top tier collectible, so Im going to dress it up a little. Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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Evaporust works very well when prepping for rust bluing.
Removes all bluing and leaves the surface untouched. Give you a good look at the surface before your start polishing. |
" If govt parsimony is economic madness, and debt-fuelled govt spending a recipe for riches, why aren't the Greeks bailing out the Germans?"
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So now she’s all stripped down, we’ll start with the barrel/action.
I started with a 220 grit, hoping I could just clean up the metal and start the bluing process. Attached File Attached File Unfortunately, Once I started sanding, it soon became apparent that there was a LOT of damage to the metal that needed to be addressed. Attached File So out came the 80 grit. Time to cut some metal. Attached File There are some deep pits and gouges. I’m going to take out what I can, but a 90 year old gun is hard to make perfect, and this one won’t be. Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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George Will
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Potentate plenipotentiary sans portfolio
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OP,
The fire engine in the background and the gas cans in the foreground are confusing me. 
Nice work. So few people are willing to take 80gr to their guns! |
" If govt parsimony is economic madness, and debt-fuelled govt spending a recipe for riches, why aren't the Greeks bailing out the Germans?"
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Aggressive cutting with the 80 grit removes the majority of the defects while removing a dimensionally insignificant amount of metal. Some of the deeper stuff and areas that are tight, like close to the roll marks where I don’t want to slip with an aggressive paper get filed, then cleaned up and trued with a lighter paper.
Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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Once I’m satisfied that I have removed as many defects as possible, I start working down with progressively finer papers, 120, 240, 320.
Time spent here is what makes or breaks the blue job. getting it sanded out well makes all the difference. Annoying places that aren’t good enough constantly appear, causing you to fall back to a more aggressive paper and work back down. Attached File Attached File Eventually everything starts shaping up. [imgAttached File Brownells says 320 is as fine s you need to go and is right for providing a good surface for their solution. I have found that you can get a shinier finish if you go finer. I finished to 1000. |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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That wasn't damage, that was just a typical Savage "polishing" job.
My preference is for the polishing to be done longitudinally, but it's much more difficult. Interested to see how this turns out. |
"And then I woke up."
"You can make O6 or keep your integrity.”
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"You can make O6 or keep your integrity.”
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From what I can see OP, you're on your way to a nice finished project! Please keep the progress reports coming!
When I began my gunsmith training I basically spent the first 18 months learning to polish, learning proper file techniques, how not to f&*^ up screw holes and rollmarks etc. It is labor intensive to do it right, but the finished product is worth it. Hot salt bath bluing is a real pain in the ass unless you are set up to do it properly. Fortunately there are several options that can be applied with the help of a heat gun, that give very satisfactory results. Keep the pics coming. |
One well at a time, Drill Baby Drill!
If you need more than 8 rounds in a 1911 to solve your problem, you need friends with rifles.
I don't need your PERMISSION in order to voice my OPINION
If you need more than 8 rounds in a 1911 to solve your problem, you need friends with rifles.
I don't need your PERMISSION in order to voice my OPINION
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Once you are satisfied with the finish, it’s time for a good cleaning.
Keep in mind, that what the surface looks like when you stop sanding is how the finish on the gun will look. There is some etching by the solution, but sanding to the finish you want is the key. I finish by sanding 90 degrees to the length which I feel helps hide the defects. I scrub with hot soapy water, rinse, then boil in the tank. Brownells recommends distilled water, I used it at first, but now I just use tap water, it works out fine. Attached File Attached File Boiling leaves it hot and clean, it quickly dries, and is ready to apply bluing solution. Attached File Using Brownells today, Laurel Mountain is my go to, but it was out of stock. Almost any brand works the same. Gloves are a good idea to keep the metal clean. Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
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Almost time for the first boil and re-application!
Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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Originally Posted By ziarifleman:
That wasn't damage, that was just a typical Savage "polishing" job.
My preference is for the polishing to be done longitudinally, but it's much more difficult. Interested to see how this turns out.  , but I’m doing this one during down time while Im stuck at the FD for 48 hours, with the idea that people who might want to do it at home can see what can be done by hand.
ERA; You’re probably right about the “damage”, a surprising amount of it looked suspiciously like errant file marks.... |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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First rust complete.
Attached File After boiling and carding, ready for the next rust. A word about carding, I use 0000 steel wool and a Brownells carding brush. When I started, I read you should “ degrease” your steel wool so you don’t contaminate the metal with oil. This leads to rapidly rusting, disintegrating, messy steel wool. And completely unnecessary. The carding brush, a very fine steel wire, is worth every penny. The one from the hardware store won’t work, it just brushes the blue back off. And be sure to hide it in a drawer somewhere so your neighbor doesn’t use it to try to clean some oily lathe part.... 
Attached File The first one is always a little funky for me, so I boil and re-coat after a few hours. The next one I will probably let go overnight, providing it hasn’t really rusted by bed time... |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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The next one I will probably let go overnight, providing it hasn’t really rusted by bed time... I always meant to construct a humidity cabinet but never got around to it. |
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Originally Posted By grendelbane:
I like rust bluing in August. Doesn't take long for it to rust when the heat and humidity are high. I always meant to construct a humidity cabinet but never got around to it. Originally Posted By grendelbane:
The next one I will probably let go overnight, providing it hasn’t really rusted by bed time... I always meant to construct a humidity cabinet but never got around to it. 
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The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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I’m in Central Florida , 80 degrees, and it’s been raining all week. We don’t need no stinking cabinet! Possible weather for rust bluing, but I think I will wait a few months.
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So the second rust came on pretty fast, so I went ahead with a boil, card and re-coat.
Here’s a good time to make a few points for folks who haven’t done this and want to try it. The solution is a mild acid that prompts a slow rust. You don’t want it to be to aggressive and eat into the metal. Too aggressive a rust and you get pitting. Sometimes the pitting is very tiny and can only be observed with a magnifying glass. It presents as a dull matte gray that won’t get any darker. The only solution is to sand it off and start over. You don’t have to do the whole barrel, just the affected part, it will eventually blend in. To avoid this, I usually boil sooner than later, it’s a fine line between getting a good rust and letting it go to far. Boiling converts the red oxide to black oxide. It only takes seconds. I’ve done big pieces of steel by just pouring boiling water on them. Once it’s blackened, you have to “ card” it; polish off the black fuzz with the steel wool or brush. At this point it is very stable. You can leave it , go to work or out to dinner and come back to it later. If I do that, so like to give it a quick boil before I start the rust process again to make sure it’s clean , and warm when I apply the solution. second rust Attached File Attached File So I re-applied solution for the third rust overnight, we’ll see how it looks in the morning. |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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So the overnight rust went well, not too aggressive.
Attached File Attached File It’s really starting to darken up now, this is when it’s critical to be thorough with the “carding “ and polishing. The rust is filling in and blending, “pixelating” like a dot matrix printer if you will, it’s very important that all metal is clean and exposed to the solution so you can darken and blend everything together. Attached File Off for rust four.
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The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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| Isn't this also producing rust in the barrel and chamber area? how is that resolved? |
Don't be so open-minded that your brains fall out.
General education should not be mere job training, but training of the mind to reason. https://welltrainedmind.com/a/classical-education/
General education should not be mere job training, but training of the mind to reason. https://welltrainedmind.com/a/classical-education/
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Originally Posted By MRW:
Isn't this also producing rust in the barrel and chamber area? how is that resolved? I take the polished part, and coat what I want to rust with the bluing solution, in this case I’m using a small square of terrycloth, I’ll also use q tips to get into nooks and crannies and on small parts. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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Cleaned up the trigger, noticed the sear was badly worn.
Attached File So I stoned it back square, I’ll check it for square when I get home, and probably flame harden it. It seemed very soft, had worn out quite a notch. Forgot to photograph the final product... Got it all cleaned up and bluing now. Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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Trigger guard and safety next, tried for a high polish on the trigger guard, finished to 1000, we’ll see how it turns out.
Attached File A big part of sanding the parts is keeping the original contours and staying square. In my shop I have a wide variety of wood pieces, different size dowels, and can cut and shape wood backers to the contour I need. I also use popsicle sticks, which can be cut to a contour with scissors, and files, wrapped in sandpaper to provide a hard backer or the right shape. Here I’m using what I have available, a spark plug socket with a short extension to sand the inside contour of the safety while keeping the edges square. I can control the diameter some what by how much sandpaper I roll onto it. Attached File Attached File This is another handy tool, it’s flexible foam, made to fit your hand, and you can buy a variety of papers precut that attach by velcro. Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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More field expedient contouring tools, here I’m using my carbide scratch awl tool , which turns out to be just the right diameter to fit into the bends of the trigger guard.
Attached File Normally I would find or turn a dowel to do this. |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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Getting some good rust on the barrel and receiver !
Nice and even. Attached File The rest of the bolt parts I will do at home, just a whole lot faster to chuck them in the drill press or lathe to polish them. Attached File Boiled and carded, round one for the small parts, round four for barrel/receiver. The barrel receiver is already blacker and much better then it was, but I will keep going until it won’t take rust anymore. Attached File Getting Dark
Attached File Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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Really getting a good rust on tonight, very pleased with how it’s going.Put a 300 watt halogen light on the barrel to keep it warm, really making a difference.
Attached File Trigger guard is rusting well . Attached File This will probably be the last run for the barrel, I’m getting rust, but it seems to have plateaued as far as color, it’s a nice, dark blue now. Attached File Attached File Small parts have s way to go. Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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George Will
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Originally Posted By PR361:
More field expedient contouring tools, here I’m using my carbide scratch awl tool , which runs out to be just the right diameter to fit into the bends of the trigger guard. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/195613/93A9C00C-A3D6-4AF9-8AC2-149EE337FB9E_jpeg-1214400.JPG Normally I would find or turn a dowel to do this. I'm considering rust bluing a 1911 slide. I have never tried it, and I'm hesitant about polishing the narrow details, but the overall size is small and seems like a good place to start with a high polish on the outside and more matte inside. I might try masking part of it with laquer. |
Keep your powder dry, and watch your back trail.
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Originally Posted By AeroE:
I discovered Pex tubing for contouring compound curves last summer. PVC tubing works for a rigid backer. I'm considering rust bluing a 1911 slide. I have never tried it, and I'm hesitant about polishing the narrow details, but the overall size is small and seems like a good place to start with a high polish on the outside and more matte inside. I might try masking part of it with laquer. Originally Posted By AeroE:
Originally Posted By PR361:
More field expedient contouring tools, here I’m using my carbide scratch awl tool , which runs out to be just the right diameter to fit into the bends of the trigger guard. https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/195613/93A9C00C-A3D6-4AF9-8AC2-149EE337FB9E_jpeg-1214400.JPG Normally I would find or turn a dowel to do this. I'm considering rust bluing a 1911 slide. I have never tried it, and I'm hesitant about polishing the narrow details, but the overall size is small and seems like a good place to start with a high polish on the outside and more matte inside. I might try masking part of it with laquer. Here |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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George Will
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So Overnight a front pushed through resulting ing a drastic reduction in humidity. Even though I had the halogen lamp warming my parts, they put on zero rust.
Attached File The barrel/receiver is probably done, the small parts will have to be finished in a warmed container. I left the halogen at work, and don’t feel like rigging anything else, so I’ll resume rustin back at work on the 1rst. Not much going on at the FD New year’s day anyway. Hopefully I’ll find time to spin and polish the remaining bolt parts today.
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The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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I'm considering rust bluing a 1911 slide. It has held up extremely well over the last few years. Doesn't show much wear in spite of being carried a lot. Polarizing, some people like, some hate it. Of course, some people simply hate anything which is not a factory finish.
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Originally Posted By grendelbane: So, even in Florida, a humidity cabinet can be a useful thing!
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The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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Originally Posted By waldershrek:
Are you doing these repairs at a fire house? Trying to show what can be done with hand tools and some elbow grease. And a simple set up.
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The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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George Will
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Another slow shift at the FD. Low expectations when you are working a holiday, just be there if the citizens need you.
So a little.more work on the bluing project. Called it quits on the barrel/receiver, boiled, polished and oiled. I wish I had boiled it and stopped the acid a little earlier, I left it on for 24 hours to see if it would rust. I think that was a mistake and actually made it a little bit of a matte finish, micro pitting from the acid solution. Probably could have been a little shinier if I had boiled it a day earlier. But it turned out good anyway, very black, way better than it was. Attached File Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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Now I’m working on small parts, hanging in the humidifier.
Attached File Attached File Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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George Will
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Simple way to polish screw heads, a wood block conforms to the screw heads shape and gives it a nice polish.
Attached File Attached File Lost one on the floorboard of the car, so took care of it with a hand drill at work. Attached File Attached File Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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George Will
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Still working on the small parts. Thats one of the nice things about rust bluing, you can set it aside and come back to it later and pick back up on the process. Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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George Will
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Sneaking up on the small parts. Pretty close to done, got another rust done today.
Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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George Will
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Probably finish the small parts today, I left them overnight and they put on very little rust. Pre boil photo, minuscule rust. Attached File |
The nice part about being a pessimist is that you are constantly being either proven right or pleasantly surprised.
George Will
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George Will
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Let’s Rust Blue A Rifle! (Page 1 of 2)
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