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Just bought a new Mini 14 Tactical (Page 2 of 2)
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OP, did you check the torque on your gas block screws? I've read that they may need attention from the factory. I have a rifle like yours on the way from Rapid Fire Services LLC out of OKC. I wanted to check my screws but I don't know the torque values. @TheMercenary @raf |
Capitalism produces, communism reduces.
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I did check mine straight out of the box, and they were not consistent. One of the rear ones was pretty loose. I believe the official torque spec is 30 in/lbs, but user sandog over on the ruger forums did an accuracy test based on torque values. He found that lower torque (25-30 in/lbs) gave the best results. Over torquing caused a loss in accuracy. I could only get at the front two with my torque driver because of the sling swivel, but both of them turned about a 1/4 turn before it clicked at 25 in/lbs. @twistedcomrade |
”A really bad idea, embraced by millions of people, is still a really bad idea.” - T. Blauer
”Censorship is telling a man he can't have a steak just because a baby can't chew it.” - Mark Twain
”Censorship is telling a man he can't have a steak just because a baby can't chew it.” - Mark Twain
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Originally Posted By TheMercenary: I did check mine straight out of the box, and they were not consistent. One of the rear ones was pretty loose. I believe the official torque spec is 30 in/lbs, but user sandog over on the ruger forums did an accuracy test based on torque values. He found that lower torque (25-30 in/lbs) gave the best results. Over torquing caused a loss in accuracy. I could only get at the front two with my torque driver because of the sling swivel, but both of them turned about a 1/4 turn before it clicked at 25 in/lbs. @twistedcomrade 
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Capitalism produces, communism reduces.
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I refuse to believe a modern manufacturing line such as Ruger's does not use a calibrated driver on those screws. I would bet they are torqued to proper spec at assembly. I doubt owners are finding actual out of torque spec screws. I seriously doubt it. Are owners using a calibrated device. Likely not. The driver they are using is most likely far less accurate than what Ruger uses. Drivers on an assembly line are calibrated often and have traceable certs and stickers. LOL your China made Wheeler driver may be off. |
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Originally Posted By BRN-180: I refuse to believe a modern manufacturing line such as Ruger's does not use a calibrated driver on those screws. I would bet they are torqued to proper spec at assembly. I doubt owners are finding actual out of torque spec screws. I seriously doubt it. Are owners using a calibrated device. Likely not. The driver they are using is most likely far less accurate than what Ruger uses. Drivers on an assembly line are calibrated often and have traceable certs and stickers. LOL your China made Wheeler driver may be off.  The long history of the Mini-14's marksmanship achievements belies your comment.
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Death to quislings.
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Originally Posted By BRN-180: I refuse to believe a modern manufacturing line such as Ruger's does not use a calibrated driver on those screws. I would bet they are torqued to proper spec at assembly. I doubt owners are finding actual out of torque spec screws. I seriously doubt it. Are owners using a calibrated device. Likely not. The driver they are using is most likely far less accurate than what Ruger uses. Drivers on an assembly line are calibrated often and have traceable certs and stickers. LOL your China made Wheeler driver may be off. If you had actually read my full comment you would realize that I checked the screws straight out of the box with a regular hex key. One of the rear screws turned easily when the other three didn't with even hand pressure. I never claimed to be a rocket scientist, but I can tell when a screw is loose... That's what prompted me to get out my torque driver in the first place. You would have also realized (as I previously mentioned) I couldn't even get at the rear screws with my torque driver with the sling loop in place, so i'm not even sure what got you ranting about chinese drivers and such... Regardless, I will re-visit the gas block screws later when I convert it to use QD sling swivels. |
”A really bad idea, embraced by millions of people, is still a really bad idea.” - T. Blauer
”Censorship is telling a man he can't have a steak just because a baby can't chew it.” - Mark Twain
”Censorship is telling a man he can't have a steak just because a baby can't chew it.” - Mark Twain
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Originally Posted By TheMercenary: If you had actually read my full comment you would realize that I checked the screws straight out of the box with a regular hex key. One of the rear screws turned easily when the other three didn't with even hand pressure. I never claimed to be a rocket scientist, but I can tell when a screw is loose... That's what prompted me to get out my torque driver in the first place. You would have also realized (as I previously mentioned) I couldn't even get at the rear screws with my torque driver with the sling loop in place, so i'm not even sure what got you ranting about chinese drivers and such... Regardless, I will re-visit the gas block screws later when I convert it to use QD sling swivels. Unfortunately, checking (and sometimes adjusting) the gas block's position is necessary. This is simple. Loosen all gas block screws until the gas block can "just" be slid forwards and aft and rotated sideways. The gas block will be limited in its' movement by the captured gas port between the barrel and the gas block. Move the gas block so that there is minimal rubbing/interference between the gas piston (projecting from rear of gas block) and the hole for same on forward end of op-rod. This can be tedious, as the gas piston is designed to have a little "wiggle" to it. Adjust things as best as possible and carefully tighten the screws holding the gas block and the gas block in a criss-cross pattern. Make an effort to keep the gaps on the sides between gas block and gas block cap as nearly even as possible, but as long as the gaps on the sides between the two items are present, and almost equal, things will be OK. Torque gas block screws to 25 inch pounds. |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
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Originally Posted By BRN-180: I have been waiting on the same gun but in 7.62X39 model 5868 stainless tactical. Ruger has not made any for many months. I see NOW that there is a large quantity of the 7.62X39 Tactical in blue for sale, so Ruger must have just released a batch of those because they were not for sale just a week ago. This gives me hope that a batch of SS 5868 are coming in the near future. I believe Ruger stops production of most models and only makes models in scheduled batches. The only models in constant production are the most popular and fast selling. It can be a year off production on some models. Ruger did a batch of 5868 in September of 2022. I work for a Ruger distributor. |
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Originally Posted By jagdkommando: Ruger did a batch of 5868 in September of 2022. I work for a Ruger distributor. None appeared in the 20 online major retailers that I track during that time frame. I actually have one on paid back order. My retailer never got any. |
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Originally Posted By BRN-180: None appeared in the 20 online major retailers that I track during that time frame. I actually have one on paid back order. My retailer never got any. Originally Posted By BRN-180: Originally Posted By jagdkommando: Ruger did a batch of 5868 in September of 2022. I work for a Ruger distributor. None appeared in the 20 online major retailers that I track during that time frame. I actually have one on paid back order. My retailer never got any. Especially at some of the big wholesalers; if you didn't spend enough with them to warrant a salesperson, you didn't have access to the "good stuff". I bought my SS non-threaded 16" (that I turned into the folder) from gunbroker because I got tired of waiting for it, because my usual sources never got them in stock. |
<**Me:**> I just spent 95% of my paycheck on LaRue stuff, within 30 minutes of getting paid. < **mfingar:**> For what it's worth, Dillo Dust is great on Ramen. </**mfingar:**></**me:**>
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Originally Posted By SNAFU-M1A: Just an FYI, the .300BO mags are the same as the 5.56 mags & are usually cheaper $5 to $10. |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
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Originally Posted By SNAFU-M1A: Just an FYI, the .300BO mags are the same as the 5.56 mags & are usually cheaper $5 to $10. Yes. When buying mags always look for deals on the 300 BO marked ones first. Sometimes as low as $21. If it bothers you, you can buy mag ID rubber bands. Put the 300 or 5.56 band on the mag if you want. IMO the 300 BO Mini-14 will be discontinued at some time. It would be wise to buy the 20s marked 300 even if you only own a 5.56 gun. At some time in the future the discontinued 300 marked mags will demand a premium price far exceeding normal 5.56 mags. |
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Originally Posted By BRN-180: Yes. When buying mags always look for deals on the 300 BO marked ones first. Sometimes as low as $21. If it bothers you, you can buy mag ID rubber bands. Put the 300 or 5.56 band on the mag if you want. IMO the 300 BO Mini-14 will be discontinued at some time. It would be wise to buy the 20s marked 300 even if you only own a 5.56 gun. At some time in the future the discontinued 300 marked mags will demand a premium price far exceeding normal 5.56 mags. |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
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Originally Posted By raf: You may find that torquing the screws in typical criss-cross pattern at 25 inch pounds will give better results than the 40 inch pounds Ruger uses as "nominal" spec. Originally Posted By raf: You may find that torquing the screws in typical criss-cross pattern at 25 inch pounds will give better results than the 40 inch pounds Ruger uses as "nominal" spec. Thank you for the detailed post. I will do this when I install an Ultimak rail. I had planned on leaving it iron sights, but I miss the utility of having a optic in low light. Originally Posted By Seven-Shooter: If your retailer didn't have an "in" with a sales guy who was allocated some of those rifles, he would've never even had the chance to get it in stock. Especially at some of the big wholesalers; if you didn't spend enough with them to warrant a salesperson, you didn't have access to the "good stuff". I bought my SS non-threaded 16" (that I turned into the folder) from gunbroker because I got tired of waiting for it, because my usual sources never got them in stock. I also resorted to getting mine from gunbroker, after having my dealer (a family member) having it on backorder for months. I paid about $100 more than I should have, but I don't regret the purchase at all. I like this rifle more than I thought I would, and have been taking it everywhere instead of my usual AR. |
”A really bad idea, embraced by millions of people, is still a really bad idea.” - T. Blauer
”Censorship is telling a man he can't have a steak just because a baby can't chew it.” - Mark Twain
”Censorship is telling a man he can't have a steak just because a baby can't chew it.” - Mark Twain
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Originally Posted By BRN-180: Yes. When buying mags always look for deals on the 300 BO marked ones first. Sometimes as low as $21. If it bothers you, you can buy mag ID rubber bands. Put the 300 or 5.56 band on the mag if you want. IMO the 300 BO Mini-14 will be discontinued at some time. It would be wise to buy the 20s marked 300 even if you only own a 5.56 gun. At some time in the future the discontinued 300 marked mags will demand a premium price far exceeding normal 5.56 mags. |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
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Originally Posted By TheMercenary: Thank you for the detailed post. I will do this when I install an Ultimak rail. I had planned on leaving it iron sights, but I miss the utility of having a optic in low light. I also resorted to getting mine from gunbroker, after having my dealer (a family member) having it on backorder for months. I paid about $100 more than I should have, but I don't regret the purchase at all. I like this rifle more than I thought I would, and have been taking it everywhere instead of my usual AR. Many ways of "tweaking" your Mini. Some lo/no cost. s |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
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Attached File Attached File Picked mine up yesterday. No hi-Jack intended OP. |
Capitalism produces, communism reduces.
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Originally Posted By twistedcomrade: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/52148/DFAFB329-A20C-469F-9FEB-FBFF63E0BEF2_jpe-2654712.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/52148/D5A4AE42-CFA5-427E-A806-9FE367E9CC18_jpe-2654710.JPG Picked mine up yesterday. No hi-Jack intended OP. Who did you end up buying from? Clean and nice setup. No bullshit garbage. |
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Originally Posted By BRN-180: Who did you end up buying from? Clean and nice setup. No bullshit garbage. Edit, it was $1140 shipped. |
Capitalism produces, communism reduces.
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Originally Posted By twistedcomrade: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/52148/DFAFB329-A20C-469F-9FEB-FBFF63E0BEF2_jpe-2654712.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/52148/D5A4AE42-CFA5-427E-A806-9FE367E9CC18_jpe-2654710.JPG Picked mine up yesterday. No hi-Jack intended OP. I do see an issue with your pic rail. Can you get the bolt out for cleaning with that model pic rail? |
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Originally Posted By BRN-180: I do see an issue with your pic rail. Can you get the bolt out for cleaning with that model pic rail? |
Capitalism produces, communism reduces.
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Originally Posted By twistedcomrade: I don't know. That was a quick pic with the optic. That configuration may change when I get a chance to shoot it. Originally Posted By twistedcomrade: Originally Posted By BRN-180: I do see an issue with your pic rail. Can you get the bolt out for cleaning with that model pic rail? Given adequate aerosol solvents and lubes, plus some compressed air, the Mini's bolt can usually be adequately cleaned in situ. Minis don't tend to run as dirty as do most ARs. |
Promoted to Member by Ed, Sr.
| I have been a Colt AR guy since the 1970`s but always had a Mini 14 along the way never had a problem , I just got the New type like the stainless on you have its been flawless , I only run fact 20 rd mags, I also did change out the rear sight I like the compact size and take it on my atv or a road trip to the PA mountains up North . |
Samson rail porn: Sneak Peek of our Mini-14 at the Proving Grounds with Scott Kiefner |
Death to quislings.
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Anyone looking for the Mini-30 Tactical? Ruger just released a batch and they are showing up a few places. Most retailers sell them out really quick but there are 3 on GB right now lowest at $1299. Figure much more for final price shipped. It proves my point that these are made in batches and it can be a long time between batches. I saw maybe 7 for sale in the last few days. Prices are high. |
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OP: If you need more mags check out mags - $27 plus $8 shipping and no tax. I have S/S TAC with prefix 584. The finish on the bolt and receiver is very rough. How is yours? |
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Originally Posted By nada: OP: If you need more mags check out mags - $27 plus $8 shipping and no tax. I have S/S TAC with prefix 584. The finish on the bolt and receiver is very rough. How is yours? There are many places that sell them for under $25. Always check gun.deals using UPC or Mfg#. Most places charge about $14 shipping for unlimited items, so if you want 10, that is the place to go. gun.deals |
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Bought my Mini 14 tactical 5 or 6 years ago. Was $750 plus tax. Picked up the GB a couple of weeks ago for $869. Already had the stainless folder. Attached File |
Just bought a new Mini 14 Tactical (Page 2 of 2)
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