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How i built my own rotary tumbler (Page 11 of 31)
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Originally Posted By usmc0331tamu00:
Vid of it running. I have a few little things to finish and it's ready for paint. great job! that turned out great. welcome to the home built crowd |
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Originally Posted By usmc0331tamu00: You've noticed, with running the larger batches more efficiently, that the next step is washing/rinsing the soap and Lemishine off of them quickly and without having to use 500 gallons of water. And splashing water everywhere, and losing handfuls of pins through bounce or in the drain.I spent some time on my tumbler this weekend and got it operational. Here's the completed drum. I had some 1" neoprene that I cut for the agitators. The work well and seem to be quieter than the PVC pipe agitators on the tumbler my buddy built. http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3300.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3299.jpg This is after I ran the media only to clean and burnish the pins. I loaded 22 lbs. of brass & 25 lbs. of media for the first run. Before http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3302.jpg After 2 hours of run time. http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3309.jpg After 4 hours http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3313.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3312.jpg I might need to cut back on the brass a bit if I wanted the primer pockets a little cleaner but this is plenty good for my purposes. Ever notice how many and how far pins bounce when you're pouring a scoop of brass/pins from the tumbler into the separator/rinser? ![]() A dedicated, well lit, rinse station is your next step. |
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VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
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VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
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I did notice how those pins like to jump all over the place. |
"Rome's glory by way of the Greeks came,
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
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Originally Posted By usmc0331tamu00: I have two of these, one for dry work, walnut tumbling mostly, to get the crud off so I can read headstamps well enough to sort by manufacturer and date.I did notice how those pins like to jump all over the place. I use a second one for wet work, to tumble the washed brass and separate the pins. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/176956/rcbs-rotary-case-and-media-separator ![]() |
Deej86: "Piss off."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
| I have one of those and it did work well for separating the pins. Most of the pins that escaped did so while transferring the brass /media from one container to the other. |
"Rome's glory by way of the Greeks came,
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
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Don't be afraid of discussing your wet tumbling plans with your friends.
I was telling a guy at work that i was about to order stainless steel media, He looked at me, slapped my in the back of the head and said, "Hey stupee, I can get you all you want, I work part time at a place that uses the stuff all the time. and rotate it. It doesn't go bad, but we just throw the old away. How much you need?" I said maybe ten pounds and he said, "No problem...." Jan is turning out to be a really good month for me.... |
| Question: is it beneficial to ever run the SS pins without brass to "clean" them? I'm thinking after 10 or 15 brass cleaning cycles it might be a good idea just to put some Dawn in the drum and rotate the SS pins by themselves for an hour or more. Would this be productive for any reason? |
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Originally Posted By supercrew: Run an empty batch with no brass and compare the next batch of brass to the previous batch of brass.Question: is it beneficial to ever run the SS pins without brass to "clean" them? I'm thinking after 10 or 15 brass cleaning cycles it might be a good idea just to put some Dawn in the drum and rotate the SS pins by themselves for an hour or more. Would this be productive for any reason? I don't personally know anyone who's done it, but I can't see it'd help. I've been wrong before, so I don't have a record to protect. ![]() |
Deej86: "Piss off."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
|
Originally Posted By supercrew:
Question: is it beneficial to ever run the SS pins without brass to "clean" them? I'm thinking after 10 or 15 brass cleaning cycles it might be a good idea just to put some Dawn in the drum and rotate the SS pins by themselves for an hour or more. Would this be productive for any reason? I honestly don't think it will make any difference. |
"Rome's glory by way of the Greeks came,
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
|
Originally Posted By supercrew:
Question: is it beneficial to ever run the SS pins without brass to "clean" them? I'm thinking after 10 or 15 brass cleaning cycles it might be a good idea just to put some Dawn in the drum and rotate the SS pins by themselves for an hour or more. Would this be productive for any reason? I personally think it would be a waste of time. i rinse my pins every time i tumble so no more dirt gets stuck on them than on the cases they tumble. everything comes out looking new. there would be no need to wash the pins. but this is america (for now) and if you want to wash them go for it. |
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Originally Posted By supercrew:
Question: is it beneficial to ever run the SS pins without brass to "clean" them? I'm thinking after 10 or 15 brass cleaning cycles it might be a good idea just to put some Dawn in the drum and rotate the SS pins by themselves for an hour or more. Would this be productive for any reason? A few months after I got into wet tumbling, my brass wasn't as clean as when I started. So, I washed the pins. That was about 18 months ago, and I haven't washed them since. In hindsight, I believe my clean brass issue was a cleaning solution issue, and not a dirty pins issue. |
The Marines I have seen around the world have the cleanest bodies, the filthiest minds, the highest morale, and the lowest morals of any group of animals I have ever seen. --Eleanor Roosevelt
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Originally Posted By bags533: I'm getting back into washing brass again after being away from the process for a few months. I had to experiment with ways to keep the 5 gallon buckets from leaking through the lid/rim during the 75 to 90 minute spin cycles.Originally Posted By supercrew: Question: is it beneficial to ever run the SS pins without brass to "clean" them? I'm thinking after 10 or 15 brass cleaning cycles it might be a good idea just to put some Dawn in the drum and rotate the SS pins by themselves for an hour or more. Would this be productive for any reason? A few months after I got into wet tumbling, my brass wasn't as clean as when I started. So, I washed the pins. That was about 18 months ago, and I haven't washed them since. In hindsight, I believe my clean brass issue was a cleaning solution issue, and not a dirty pins issue. I've noticed that some of the brass I'm washing a 2nd time isn't coming out as bright as the brass came out the first time. I'm putting some of it through a 2nd wash after trimming 5.56 to 300BLK, to scrub off the lanolin and polish the cut edges at the mouth. I'm thinking it's either a difference in the Lemishine (the first wash was months ago, I'm using a newly bought case of Lemishine), or something to do with the amount of Lemishine I'm putting into the mix because I'm washing brass that's already technically clean. If I put in the normal amount for a regular wash - I get some of the brass showing a lot of copper, or distinct coppery spots or areas. When I put in less it's looking dull. I'm scratching my head here over this. I washed about 80K rounds with the 25LBs of pins I have, and one of the other things I'm wondering about is whether the pins have polished the cut ends enough that they're just less aggressive. I need to change a few things and document the changes to compare the results, I guess. Anyway, I don't believe the pins themselves are dirty. It's like the old question of whether my bath towels get dirty or not. The only thing they ever touch is me right after I get out of a shower, and at that point I'm the cleanest thing in the house. ![]() |
Deej86: "Piss off."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
|
Originally Posted By kaos:
Originally Posted By bags533:
I'm getting back into washing brass again after being away from the process for a few months. I had to experiment with ways to keep the 5 gallon buckets from leaking through the lid/rim during the 75 to 90 minute spin cycles.
Originally Posted By supercrew:
Question: is it beneficial to ever run the SS pins without brass to "clean" them? I'm thinking after 10 or 15 brass cleaning cycles it might be a good idea just to put some Dawn in the drum and rotate the SS pins by themselves for an hour or more. Would this be productive for any reason? A few months after I got into wet tumbling, my brass wasn't as clean as when I started. So, I washed the pins. That was about 18 months ago, and I haven't washed them since. In hindsight, I believe my clean brass issue was a cleaning solution issue, and not a dirty pins issue. I've noticed that some of the brass I'm washing a 2nd time isn't coming out as bright as the brass came out the first time. I'm putting some of it through a 2nd wash after trimming 5.56 to 300BLK, to scrub off the lanolin and polish the cut edges at the mouth. I'm thinking it's either a difference in the Lemishine (the first wash was months ago, I'm using a newly bought case of Lemishine), or something to do with the amount of Lemishine I'm putting into the mix because I'm washing brass that's already technically clean. If I put in the normal amount for a regular wash - I get some of the brass showing a lot of copper, or distinct coppery spots or areas. When I put in less it's looking dull. I'm scratching my head here over this. I washed about 80K rounds with the 25LBs of pins I have, and one of the other things I'm wondering about is whether the pins have polished the cut ends enough that they're just less aggressive. I need to change a few things and document the changes to compare the results, I guess. Anyway, I don't believe the pins themselves are dirty. It's like the old question of whether my bath towels get dirty or not. The only thing they ever touch is me right after I get out of a shower, and at that point I'm the cleanest thing in the house.
if you are tumbling lube off you have to use more soap, i have done many experiments and i now double the usual amount of soap if i am tumbling lube off. lemi shine is what makes the brass bright if you uses too much and don't get it rinsed off it can cause the orange tinting. if you are doing really large batches you can run into that problem. -- been there done that too. ETA what i do if i get some turning orange or not bright is put them in a 6 quart container fill with hot water dump in some lemi shine and stir with my hand they turn bright almost instantly then i rinse right away with cold water and they are good to go. |
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Originally Posted By supercrew: Question: is it beneficial to ever run the SS pins without brass to "clean" them? I'm thinking after 10 or 15 brass cleaning cycles it might be a good idea just to put some Dawn in the drum and rotate the SS pins by themselves for an hour or more. Would this be productive for any reason? I never have, my cases are still blingy. Alright a new word. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
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Silly question....
Let me start and say I am still gathering all the parts to build, but just had a wild thought.... Anyone ever put a very tarnished BCG in with there media? was just curious how well it would clean up, and just lube it when done. Stupid or genius? Thought of this as I am cleaning my CMMG .22 conversion kit |
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Originally Posted By NCUrk: 1.) The stainless pins tend to 'beat up' most stuff besides the brass, mostly because the brass can't really be hurt much. People have put gun related parts in the tumbler and mentioned it was not a happy thing to do.Silly question.... Let me start and say I am still gathering all the parts to build, but just had a wild thought.... Anyone ever put a very tarnished BCG in with there media? was just curious how well it would clean up, and just lube it when done. Stupid or genius? Thought of this as I am cleaning my CMMG .22 conversion kit 2.) Steel/iron in the Lemishine solution gets a little nasty, and it discolors the brass. 3.) I wouldn't want to be the one expecting the finish on the BCG to be unaffected. Feel free to ignore, post pix of the mayhem. ![]() |
Deej86: "Piss off."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
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Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
here is the media i got from pellets llc http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_3447.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_3444.jpg So the SS pellets are magnetic? That simplifies things a lot when it comes to sorting the media from the brass! |
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Originally Posted By Finnbear:
Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
here is the media i got from pellets llc http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_3447.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_3444.jpg So the SS pellets are magnetic? That simplifies things a lot when it comes to sorting the media from the brass! yes the stainless media is magnetic and i keep a magnet on my sink to pick up the stray pins when rinsing |
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I love it!!! excellent use of exsisting stuff i bet you could do something similar with a wet drum set up.
Originally Posted By harvthesecond:
So after reading this thread and then eye balling the 'exercise' equipment I've got collecting dust in the basement I came up with this dry tumbler for free. I may go with the PVC setup after a few runs. Total cost on this project $0(if you saw my reloading table build you know I've got a ton of extra 2X4s laying around) and about an hour of my creativity, and several eye rolls as I explained it to the wife. http://harv.f0e.net/bench/tumbler/IMG_0805.JPG http://harv.f0e.net/bench/tumbler/IMG_0806.JPG http://harv.f0e.net/bench/tumbler/IMG_0807.JPG There is about 400 5.56 cases in there and I can run it up fast enough to get sufficient tumbling w/o the setup trying to jump ship. Now to pick up some corn cob from Grainger and some NuFinish from auto-zone. How much corn cob per case count do you guys do? Thanks Harv |
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Yea a PVC setup with hard plastic screw on caps will probably work just as well for a wet setup. Treadmill can carry a 200lb+ person so I could probably turn a friggin Rubbermaid trash can if it was actually round instead of cone ish shaped.
Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
I love it!!! excellent use of exsisting stuff i bet you could do something similar with a wet drum set up. |
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Originally Posted By harvthesecond: So after reading this thread and then eye balling the 'exercise' equipment I've got collecting dust in the basement I came up with this dry tumbler for free. I may go with the PVC setup after a few runs. Total cost on this project $0(if you saw my reloading table build you know I've got a ton of extra 2X4s laying around) and about an hour of my creativity, and several eye rolls as I explained it to the wife. http://harv.f0e.net/bench/tumbler/IMG_0805.JPG http://harv.f0e.net/bench/tumbler/IMG_0806.JPG http://harv.f0e.net/bench/tumbler/IMG_0807.JPG There is about 400 5.56 cases in there and I can run it up fast enough to get sufficient tumbling w/o the setup trying to jump ship. Now to pick up some corn cob from Grainger and some NuFinish from auto-zone. How much corn cob per case count do you guys do? Thanks Harv harv check this out http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/384183_Conversion_of_treadmill_to_ss_media_tumbler___UPDATE___Finished_and_running.html |
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Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG: I've noticed that the magnetic affect/effect tends to be heterogeneous. Not all the pins are attracted to a magnet, and the sampling of the ones that are show variability....Originally Posted By Finnbear: Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG: here is the media i got from pellets llc http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_3447.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/IMG_3444.jpg So the SS pellets are magnetic? That simplifies things a lot when it comes to sorting the media from the brass! yes the stainless media is magnetic and i keep a magnet on my sink to pick up the stray pins when rinsing I've got a floor full of pins that don't respond well to a mag, including the hunk of mags that came from HDDs. I don't know whether the QC is less important for the pins they sell to us, but I expect the chromium/nickel content is a lot higher in the more non-magnetic pins I've got. Just throwing this out there. And I keep a batch of the mags from HDDs in my sink drain to catch the ones that I can. |
Deej86: "Piss off."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
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Originally Posted By morpheus6d9:
Originally Posted By harvthesecond:
So after reading this thread and then eye balling the 'exercise' equipment I've got collecting dust in the basement I came up with this dry tumbler for free. I may go with the PVC setup after a few runs. Total cost on this project $0(if you saw my reloading table build you know I've got a ton of extra 2X4s laying around) and about an hour of my creativity, and several eye rolls as I explained it to the wife. http://harv.f0e.net/bench/tumbler/IMG_0805.JPG http://harv.f0e.net/bench/tumbler/IMG_0806.JPG http://harv.f0e.net/bench/tumbler/IMG_0807.JPG There is about 400 5.56 cases in there and I can run it up fast enough to get sufficient tumbling w/o the setup trying to jump ship. Now to pick up some corn cob from Grainger and some NuFinish from auto-zone. How much corn cob per case count do you guys do? Thanks Harv harv check this out http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/384183_Conversion_of_treadmill_to_ss_media_tumbler___UPDATE___Finished_and_running.html Kickass setup there. High5 to the treadmill Tumblers. Last night I picked up some corn cob and nufinish polish. I got it all together and noticed there was no longer any tumbling action so I screwed a couple chunks of wood to the inside of my pretzel container. Here is a vid http://harv.f0e.net/bench/tumbler/IMG_0809.MOV |
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Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
I Know someone that is using round shot and he likes it. i think the only thing is the inside corners of the primer pockets may not get completely cleaned. i think those will work good they are smaller than what he is using. A friend works in an AIrcraft maint. Depot. He said he has a few tons of the stuff..... ETA No disrespect to anyone out there, but a friend got me this as a favor, I can't, in good conscious ask him to get more and then sell it to others.... I will ask him if he knows who the supplier is and try to get info. |
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Originally Posted By NCUrk:
Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
I Know someone that is using round shot and he likes it. i think the only thing is the inside corners of the primer pockets may not get completely cleaned. i think those will work good they are smaller than what he is using. A friend works in an AIrcraft maint. Depot. He said he has a few tons of the stuff..... INteresting... |
"Rome's glory by way of the Greeks came,
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
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Originally Posted By phil3333: 25 Lbs of pins and about 28 Lbs of 5.56 in a 5 gallon bucket,I am building a mega tumbler hope to have it done in 2-3 weeks,I will post pics then What are you planning on for the container? *Just for reference purposes: I've discovered recently that the steel in a 55 gallon drum will do approximately 1 million revolutions supported on inverted castor wheels and holding a 100 lb axial loaded weight before metal fatigue causes fracture of the drum on a band co-located with the castors.* |
Deej86: "Piss off."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
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Originally Posted By kaos: large diameter pvc pipe,yes I know its expensive I already bought itOriginally Posted By phil3333: 25 Lbs of pins and about 28 Lbs of 5.56 in a 5 gallon bucket,I am building a mega tumbler hope to have it done in 2-3 weeks,I will post pics then What are you planning on for the container? *Just for reference purposes: I've discovered recently that the steel in a 55 gallon drum will do approximately 1 million revolutions supported on inverted castor wheels and holding a 100 lb axial loaded weight before metal fatigue causes fracture of the drum on a band co-located with the castors.* |
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I've almost gathered up everything I need for a tumbler but I'm still trying to figure out the pulleys. For example, when you order a 4" pulley,is that 4" number the out side diameter of the pulley? So if I have an electric motor that runs 1750 RPM, do I order the pulleys at one at 11/2" and one at 4" or do I need a larger one because that number is actually the inside diameter of the pulley? Thankns in advance.
Paul |
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Originally Posted By gms1369:
I've almost gathered up everything I need for a tumbler but I'm still trying to figure out the pulleys. For example, when you order a 4" pulley,is that 4" number the out side diameter of the pulley? So if I have an electric motor that runs 1750 RPM, do I order the pulleys at one at 11/2" and one at 4" or do I need a larger one because that number is actually the inside diameter of the pulley? Thankns in advance. Paul when you pick pulleys it is the outside diameter and the shaft diameter. so if you have a 1/2" shaft motor your pulley for it would be 1 1/2 x 1/2 and for the shaft or driven pulley you can use 4", 4.5" or 5" x what ever size shaft you are using i use 1/2" shafts. |
"Rome's glory by way of the Greeks came,
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
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Originally Posted By usmc0331tamu00: It says 'video not found' on both links.I'm still making adjustments to mine. I was having issues with the drum bouncing because it was slipping on the drive axle. I added a pulley to the idler axle so they now both drive. Seems to have fixed it. http://s67.beta.photobucket.com/user/jtdavis00/media/VIDEO0109_zpsccc834ea.mp4.html http://s67.beta.photobucket.com/user/jtdavis00/media/VIDEO0108_zpse2e4fe93.mp4.html I need to add some rollers to keep the drum off the ends of the frame, finish some welds and it's ready for paint. Either you're still setting it up, or you're watching vids on your HDD that haven't been put online? |
Deej86: "Piss off."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
Mazeman: "I don't let my daughter watch the Smurfs because she's such a whore."
VictorUnit: "Bitterly I cling."
|
Originally Posted By kaos:
Originally Posted By usmc0331tamu00:
It says 'video not found' on both links.
I'm still making adjustments to mine. I was having issues with the drum bouncing because it was slipping on the drive axle. I added a pulley to the idler axle so they now both drive. Seems to have fixed it. http://s67.beta.photobucket.com/user/jtdavis00/media/VIDEO0109_zpsccc834ea.mp4.html http://s67.beta.photobucket.com/user/jtdavis00/media/VIDEO0108_zpse2e4fe93.mp4.html I need to add some rollers to keep the drum off the ends of the frame, finish some welds and it's ready for paint. Either you're still setting it up, or you're watching vids on your HDD that haven't been put online? Should be fixed. I was moving them to youtube.
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"Rome's glory by way of the Greeks came,
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
|
Originally Posted By usmc0331tamu00:
I'm still making adjustments to mine. I was having issues with the drum bouncing because it was slipping on the drive axle. I added a pulley to the idler axle so they now both drive. Seems to have fixed it. I need to add some rollers to keep the drum off the ends of the frame, finish some welds and it's ready for paint. I had a problem with the idler shaft too. My large drum wasn't too bad but the small one would slip and bounce. I'm using 3/4" shafts. I replaced the rear shaft with 5/8" drill rod. I used 3/4 OD x 5/8 ID flanged bushings in the pillow blocks. Then I used some 3/4 OD x 5/8 ID bushings on the shaft where the drum caps ride and covered those with 3/4" heater hose. Those are kept in place with shaft collars. Now the bushings spin a little on the shaft, the shaft spins a little in the outer bushings and the pillow block bearings spin a little. Pretty much no drag on the idler now, runs smooth and no heat issues with the bushings after 4 hours. |
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Originally Posted By jdb3:
Originally Posted By usmc0331tamu00:
I'm still making adjustments to mine. I was having issues with the drum bouncing because it was slipping on the drive axle. I added a pulley to the idler axle so they now both drive. Seems to have fixed it. I need to add some rollers to keep the drum off the ends of the frame, finish some welds and it's ready for paint. I had a problem with the idler shaft too. My large drum wasn't too bad but the small one would slip and bounce. I'm using 3/4" shafts. I replaced the rear shaft with 5/8" drill rod. I used 3/4 OD x 5/8 ID flanged bushings in the pillow blocks. Then I used some 3/4 OD x 5/8 ID bushings on the shaft where the drum caps ride and covered those with 3/4" heater hose. Those are kept in place with shaft collars. Now the bushings spin a little on the shaft, the shaft spins a little in the outer bushings and the pillow block bearings spin a little. Pretty much no drag on the idler now, runs smooth and no heat issues with the bushings after 4 hours. I forgot to add that I also changed out the shafts. I originally started with 1/2" pipe shafts because that's what I had in my shop. They proved to be too light to support my large drum- it weighs 95 lbs when fully loaded. I recently found some 3/4" solid stock on a job site so I remade the shafts. I turned down the ends on my lathe to 1/2" to fit the pillow blocks & pulleys I already had. The increased shaft diameter made it necessary for me to change pulleys to get the drum RPMs back down to where they needed to be. Today I added roller bearings to keep the drum in position and I should finish the wiring tonight. |
"Rome's glory by way of the Greeks came,
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
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You should be able to use what you have. If the motor is actually 1500 RPM, the small pulley is attached to the motor and the large pulley is attached to the drum, then your drum RPM would be 1500 * (.35/3.25) = 161 RPM. If you intend to use a drive axle like I did on mine then the diameter of the axle and the drum come into play.
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"Rome's glory by way of the Greeks came,
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
America's by cutting the English cord,
But Texas was sired by Fighters,
And a nation was born of the Sword"
Anonymous 1836
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Originally Posted By usmc0331tamu00:
You should be able to use what you have. If the motor is actually 1500 RPM, the small pulley is attached to the motor and the large pulley is attached to the drum, then your drum RPM would be 1500 * (.35/3.25) = 161 RPM. If you intend to use a drive axle like I did on mine then the diameter of the axle and the drum come into play. using your forumla as a base. if i direct dive to the drum 161* (3.25/6) = 87 rpm . if i added axles 161 * (.50/3.25) = 1046 rpm at the drive axle then the drum would be 1046 * (.50/6) = 87 rpm if that math is correct (witch i dought) then axle or not im good. so the question is. did i use that forumla correct Motor rpm = 1500 Small pulley = .35" Large poulley = 3.25" Drum Dia. = 6" Axle Dia. = .50" |
Global Warming Hoax Skeptic before it was cool
Joined:
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Another great build. looks like that turned out great. Congrats.
now we just need some bling brass pics
Originally Posted By usmc0331tamu00:
Just about got mine done last night. All I'm waiting for is the twist timer switch to come in. http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3606_zps694b3fc6.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3605_zps8c134e24.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3604_zps9d29d792.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3603_zps8e811d56.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3602_zpsc113ef77.jpg http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h302/jtdavis00/IMAG3601_zps59d03aeb.jpg |
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Originally Posted By BIGGDAWG:
here are a couple of screen shots on how to input the info in the calculator what you have to remember is rpm 1 is the input rpm diameter 1` is the size of the motor or input pulley or the shaft size in the second calculation rpm 2 is the output rpm of the driven shaft or drum diameter 2 is the diameter of the driven pulley or in the second calculation it is the diameter of the drum You have to remember you need to run the calculations 2 times. you need to solve for the shaft speed first then take that number and input for rpm 1, the shaft size for diameter 1 and drum diameter for diameter 2 and solve for rpm 2 in the first example is to solve for the driven pulley rpm motor rpm -- rpm 1 1500 motor pulley diameter 1 .35 driven pulley diameter 2 3.25 = pulley or shaft rpm so if you had the pulley right on the drum your speed would be 161 rpm and that is too fast in my opinion http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/chart1_zps474b0b59.jpg now if you take that info and set up with a shaft using your example here is the results rpm 1 = shaft rpm or the result of the first calculation 161 diameter 1 is the diameter of the shaft you say .5 diameter 2 is the diameter of the drum 6" solve for rpm 2 and you get 13.5 rpm http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y124/BIGGDAWG800/chart2_zps33dbeab2.jpg if you need more help ask and i will do what i can so with those numbers i would need a larger pulley if i was gonna put the pulley right to the drum. OR a smaller pully if im gonna run an axle. casue if i re did the numbers right then if im using a .50 axle then i will have to run the belt right to the axle with no pulley because the calculator said with a drive pulley of .35" i would need a axle pulley .53" on a .50 axle with a 6" drum |
How i built my own rotary tumbler (Page 11 of 31)
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