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Posted: 6/21/2022 12:25:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Manticore_Arms]
Link Posted: 6/21/2022 1:25:03 AM EDT
[#1]
Saved for later
Link Posted: 6/21/2022 6:11:39 AM EDT
[#2]
I have the 5th generation, I think. It could possibly the 6th.. but I don't know when they changed from 5th to 6th. If you know the difference, I'd love to know.

Any case mine runs okay.. it can be picky at times on ammo.
I do know they improved on the feed tray on mine. Also the feed ramp is clean smooth instead of different levels I've seen in previous versions.
Mine I did replace the recoil spring with a cut MG34 spring. I threw in a Spikes Tactical ST-T2 but I think it didn't like it some going to change the buffer to something else.
If I were a guessing man, I'd say the 6th gen probably has tweaking issues like mine.

Currently I'm working on making the MCR insert, which I'm nearly done redesigning which is suppose to help with some of the feeding issues.
Link Posted: 6/21/2022 11:55:59 AM EDT
[Last Edit: jbntex] [#3]
I have two friends with somewhat "recent" MCR upper purchases.  Both of them have the units with most of the recent enhancements like the steel feed ramp insert, etc.  I am not sure what specific "generation" they are though.

One was purchased maybe 2 years back and the other guy bought his maybe two months ago.  My personal unit is an older Ares "Shrike"  (Gen 3ish) that I bought over 10 years ago.

Both of the MCRs ran out of the box with the 16" barrels. The ~2 year old units owner runs on his on a M16 RR and with only  the 16" barrel without issue.   The guy who bought one earlier this year,  I cut the bolt carrier to run with his lightning link in full auto.

The new RLL host purchaser also bought a new 12.5" barrel from Fightlite and it ran 100% with M855 but seemed to struggle a little bit with commercial .223 55gr ammo as that ammo didn't have enough ommph to cycle 100% of the time.

At the range, I gave him my Sprinco "Red" extra power M4 spring out of my older Ares Shrike host (vs. the  monster OEM MCR recoil spring) and his unit with the 12.5" barrel then ran the 55gr .223 ammo just fine as well.

So the two recent purchases I have exposure to seem to be dialed in and run without issue.  However, if you plan to run the 12.5" barrel it really seems to prefer the factory recommended M855 62gr ammo, especially when the upper is still pretty new.  Otherwise you may need to reduce the buffer or recoil spring to run weaker ammo with the shorter barrel.

I personally run an older MGI rate reducing recoil buffer and the Sprinco Red Recoil Spring to keep the cyclic rate a bit lower.  I also stretch my links for extra insurance since I don't use the factory recoil spring and recommended H3 buffer.

I have actually considered getting another newer unit to stash away in the event my older Gen3 unit eventually wears out.

Hope this helps.
Link Posted: 6/21/2022 12:04:02 PM EDT
[#4]
Link Posted: 6/21/2022 12:27:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: amphibian] [#5]
I have an old Gen1 which has run great since I first got it in 2006.  I see some discussions on buffer / spring selection so figured I'd chime in.....

I have mine running under 600 RPM.  (If you don't know, I like cyclic rates in this range).  With the factory recommended 42 buffer and supplied spring it is really fast like probably in the 900's or so.  Can't remember last time I clocked mine in that configuration.

Bear in mind that in the video below, I'm running M855.  It won't run that buffer/spring combo using weak ammo or if dirty.
ETA:  I NEVER stretch or lube any of my links.  
I presume if I did that the buffer/spring configuration I am using would work on weaker ammo....as well as result in a higher cyclic rate.


Link Posted: 6/21/2022 9:31:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Heineken] [#6]
I got a gen 6 from Ruben 2 months ago, it has been flawless.  I did the break in procedure half assed half way then just let her rip.  I do lube my links as that is what I found everyone recommended.
Link Posted: 6/22/2022 10:25:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Manticore_Arms] [#7]
Link Posted: 6/22/2022 10:44:22 AM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Manticore_Arms:


@Heineken

16" or 12.5" barrel and what lube are you using on your links?

I assume the break in procedure is in the manual?

Sven
Manticore Arms
View Quote


Attachment Attached File


Fired about 200 rds from mags before going to links. 12.5 inch barrel on a full auto lower.


Link Posted: 6/22/2022 10:55:41 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 58Teague] [#9]
Originally Posted By Manticore_Arms:
Is anyone running the most current Fightlite MCR "6th generation" upper in full auto?

Did you find it takes a lot of tuning to get dialed in (playing with buffer weights, springs strength, etc like the earlier generations seemed to need) , or are the current ones running pretty well right out of the box?

Anyone have experience with the 12.5" barrels and do they seem to be properly gassed to run?

Sven
Manticore Arms
View Quote




Hardly any tuning required. Would not reliably fire 55gr through belts until 500-600 rounds total. Had to use green tips for a bit to get it to cycle a complete belt. No longer an issue now.

Keep it well lubed at all times. Brake is aggressive but works extremely well. Im a fairly big guy and can fire it offhand without issue.

Still using the largest gas setting (3). Will bump it down a notch soon.

I have never lubed links.
Link Posted: 6/22/2022 12:09:27 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jbntex] [#10]
I use "PB Blaster" type silicone spray lube on the links for all my beltfeds.  (with the exception the 1919 7.62x39 links as they are polymer)

Overall it makes loading them a bit easier, makes it easier for the gun to strip the cartridge, and also protects the links against corrosion when stored or if they hit the ground and its wet outside or they pick up dirt.   The hardware store silicone spray lube is cheap, easily available and also dries to the touch vs. a traditional oil based spray lube so the links don't end up picking up more dirt/grime because of the lubricant.

However, I don't lube every time I load the links, I only relube them after I clean a batch of links.    How many times I can run links before they get tossed in the dirty "need to clean" link bucket really depends upon if the links are captured or if they hit the ground. If they are running through a gun or mounting system that captures the links you can shoot them quite a few times before they would ever get to the point that I feel they need to be cleaned up.   If the gun dumps them out on the ground how dirty they get depends upon the ground cover/type I am shooting on and also how quickly and diligently they get picked up.
Link Posted: 6/22/2022 3:51:53 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Heineken] [#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Manticore_Arms:


@Heineken

16" or 12.5" barrel and what lube are you using on your links?

I assume the break in procedure is in the manual?

Sven
Manticore Arms
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Manticore_Arms:
Originally Posted By Heineken:
I got a gen 6 from Ruben 2 months ago, it has been flawless.  I did the break in procedure half assed half way then just let her rip.  I do lube my links as that is what I found everyone recommended.


@Heineken

16" or 12.5" barrel and what lube are you using on your links?

I assume the break in procedure is in the manual?

Sven
Manticore Arms


16" and it's the Hornady one shot dry case lube stuff.  I put a bunch of links in a bag, hold breathe,soak them, shake shake shake, lay them out to dry and done.

I always just leave it on setting 2 for the pressure.  I only shoot green tip.  Have shot a lot of LC and also PMC xtac.
Link Posted: 7/10/2022 12:19:18 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Ryo] [#12]
I use one shot Hornady as well for a MG34 belt and M27 belts. I noticed when I was making my Mark G MCR insert adapter clones, the rim of the casing would sometimes get stuck in the M27. The lube will help reduce that.
Link Posted: 7/10/2022 1:04:32 AM EDT
[Last Edit: KitBuilder] [#13]
I use One Shot when I link Wolf ammo for my M60. I line up the rounds on a towel, spray a line across all the cases, and roll them around a bit. Makes them way easier to push into the M13 links.

I don't like lubricating the links themselves because I recover & re-use the links (unlike the steel cases) and having them lubed causes way more dirt and dust to stick to them. I try to setup a tarp or moving mat where they'll all land there. (I get them cheap during Harbor Freight sales).
Link Posted: 7/10/2022 9:17:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: jhoffman] [#14]
Originally Posted By Manticore_Arms:
Is anyone running the most current Fightlite MCR "6th generation" upper in full auto?

Did you find it takes a lot of tuning to get dialed in (playing with buffer weights, springs strength, etc like the earlier generations seemed to need) , or are the current ones running pretty well right out of the box?

Anyone have experience with the 12.5" barrels and do they seem to be properly gassed to run?

Sven
Manticore Arms
View Quote


I have a 6th gen upper on a full auto M16A1 that runs flawlessly right out of the box, after a brief "break in " period. Never had to lube the links.
I bought a spare short barrel, no problems works great. (note spare barrels do not come with a front sight or handle)
The only complaint is the feed tray, mine is steel but it's really taking a beating from the links. A replacement is $500.00  kinda pricey for what it is. I wish someone would come up with a snap-on stainess cover like the one for saving the trunnion on a 1919A4 from damage.
Link Posted: 7/10/2022 2:18:05 PM EDT
[Last Edit: bestiller] [#15]
I have a 6th Gen Fightlite MCR that I run on Colt M16 A1 lower. It ran like a sewing machine out if the box. I have the 12.5in and 16in barrels and run the 12.5in suppressed. I reuse my links but I initially lubed them to load them. Anyway, no regrets, it runs flawlessly every time I take it out. I use the buffer spring and buffer that Reuben shipped with it.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 7/10/2022 4:49:38 PM EDT
[#16]
JB,
What is needed to be done to get it to run with a lightning link?
Thanks.
Link Posted: 7/11/2022 3:00:28 AM EDT
[#17]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By jhoffman:
I have a 6th gen upper on a full auto M16A1 that runs flawlessly right out of the box, after a brief "break in " period. Never had to lube the links.
I bought a spare short barrel, no problems works great. (note spare barrels do not come with a front sight or handle)
The only complaint is the feed tray, mine is steel but it's really taking a beating from the links. A replacement is $500.00  kinda pricey for what it is. I wish someone would come up with a snap-on stainess cover like the one for saving the trunnion on a 1919A4 from damage.
View Quote


I did notice that the steel does take a beating from the links. Not even that much and it's showing some wear.

Quick question: Is anybody using that MCR Carbine Stock Spacer inserted into the buffer tube? I always thought it was funny that they would want to use that.
If you are not sure what I'm talking about, here it is: https://fightlite.com/mcr-carbine-stock-spacer
Link Posted: 7/11/2022 7:26:31 AM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Ryo:

Quick question: Is anybody using that MCR Carbine Stock Spacer inserted into the buffer tube? I always thought it was funny that they would want to use that.
View Quote
I think it is a CYA move for them.  All you really need to do is flip the top cover up, charge the BCG and then take a punch or something and try to force it back even further and see if the feed stud roller assembly will impact the lower.  On some people's buffer tube configuration it may or may not do this but most people won't bother to do this check.
Link Posted: 7/11/2022 12:16:00 PM EDT
[#19]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By hollowhandle:
JB,
What is needed to be done to get it to run with a lightning link?
Thanks.
View Quote


Its nothing special as the method of operation with a Lightning Link is exactly the same as any other upper.   So essentially you will need to mill the bottom of the Shrike/MCR carrier back to properly trip the lightning link.

The difference  is that you are cutting on a $600+ MCR bolt carrier vs. a $75 standard AR15/M16 bolt carrier, so if you make a mistake and cut it wrong its a much more expensive mistake.


Link Posted: 7/11/2022 12:50:09 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By amphibian:
I think it is a CYA move for them.  All you really need to do is flip the top cover up, charge the BCG and then take a punch or something and try to force it back even further and see if the feed stud roller assembly will impact the lower.  On some people's buffer tube configuration it may or may not do this but most people won't bother to do this check.
View Quote


Ah.. that would make more sense.. but they should have designed the BCG to not impact the lower if this is the case. I was thinking it was to add more tension originally (which I thought would be weird since it is such a small part), but your explanation would make more sense. I'll have to check mine just to see.  I have one of the Ares Defense lowers and it had the spacer.. so I'll compare on that too.
Link Posted: 7/11/2022 1:46:31 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jbntex] [#21]
The MCR/Shrike carrier dimension from the rear of the carrier to the point where it would impact the buffer ring is different from a DI carrier.

For a normal DI carrier this would be the rear of the carrier to the rear of the gas key.

On the Shrike/MCR this is the rear of the carrier to the back of the feed stud/roller.  The difference is ~0.075" with the Shrike/MCR being the shorter distance from the rear of the carrier to the back of the feed stud/roller.

The supplied Shrike/MCR spacer is also ~0.075" to make up for this difference in depth dimension as a a Shrike/MCR will always eat up ~0.075" of this recoil stroke space margin between the back of the carrier and the top of the lower receiver buffer ring vs. a DI carrier.

Do you need this spacer depends upon a couple of factors.

How long is your buffer, how squishy/soft is the end of the buffer, how deep is your buffer tube, how strong is your recoil spring, are you running hot ammo, are you running a suppressor, what gas setting do you have on the MCR upper on.

You may be fine to use up more of the available space margin between the back of the carrier and the top/front of the buffer tube if you had good spacing margin to start with.

Maybe your gun had not so generous spacing margin to start  because the buffer tube had one less rotation on it when it was installed and you don't have an extra 0.075" to spare and no matter what the MCR/Shrike carrier is now going to hit the top of the lower receiver buffer ring and damage it.

Maybe you were close enough running M193, no suppressor, on the normal setting....but  load a belt of NATO spec M855, put a suppressor on the gun, and accidentally set it on adverse and run a 100rd and you may throw the carrier back hard enough during the recoil stroke that the feed roller/stud now hits your buffer tube ring because the rubber bumper on the back of the buffer compresses more with the increased rearward carrier velocity and you end up with a feed roller dent/damage to your $30K M16 lower.

Overall the spacer is just extra insurance to make sure that the spacing margin between the back of the carrier and the top of the lower receiver buffer tube ring at least stays roughly the same as it was when you removed the DI upper from the gun and installed the Shrike/MCR upper.

Pic below to show the difference between a DI and Shrike/MCR carrier.

Attachment Attached File
Link Posted: 7/11/2022 3:08:04 PM EDT
[#22]
jbntex, Thanks for taking the time to reply with photos.

That is exactly what I plan to check out. Depth with buffer to see if the carrier will strike the lower. 0.075" spacer is easy enough to install if needed. Likely I'd just weld a disk to the buffer and dedicate the buffer to the MCR. I hate having to deal with small loose parts.
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