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Posted: 6/25/2026 5:59:16 PM EDT
| I ordered one six weeks ago and haven't received it yet and my emails go unanswered. |
Never bring a green and orange water pistol to a gunfight. Old_Painless
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Received mine last friday. Its a turd. There is something wrong with the geometry between the sear and disconnector. Disconnector releases the sear before it has enough leverage to release the hammer. Hammer wont drop, gun wont fire. Tried 3 different hammers. Playing with the sear/ hammer engagement surfaces now but my hopes arent high. |
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Originally Posted By jrinfoley: @hrt4me When did you place your order? Let us know how it works for you. I placed my order April 8, received yesterday July 8, so exactly 3 months from order to delivery I will start tinkering with it this weekend, but I'm still waiting for my modified bolt to eliminate bolt bounce... |
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Originally Posted By hitchhiker: @hrt4me ...Modified bolt, you say? What are the details on that? NavGunner recently joined this site and posted in a different thread, which is how I found his modified 10/22 bolt like the one I currently have with my Norrell 10/22 trigger pack... |
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Originally Posted By hrt4me: I placed my order April 8, received yesterday July 8, so exactly 3 months from order to delivery I will start tinkering with it this weekend, but I'm still waiting for my modified bolt to eliminate bolt bounce... Post a picture of the modified bolt. |
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Originally Posted By Shadyman: Post a picture of the modified bolt. I do not yet have the new one I ordered from NavGunner, his website indicated a 4 to 6 week wait I can take a photograph of the bolt in my Norrell 10/22, which should be similar if not identical... |
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I had absolutely no issues whatsoever this morning, and it fed both CCI Mini-Mags and Remington Golden Bullet bulk pack perfectly. I did not even polish nor even lubricate the 10/22, bone dry, first time it's ever been fired. It was also nice Mars added some new installation videos on their Instagram page so I could double-check my work. I would highly recommend, 10/10. |
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Originally Posted By hrt4me: I had absolutely no issues whatsoever this morning, and it fed both CCI Mini-Mags and Remington Golden Bullet bulk pack perfectly. I did not even polish nor even lubricate the 10/22, bone dry, first time it's ever been fired. It was also nice Mars added some new installation videos on their Instagram page so I could double-check my work. I would highly recommend, 10/10. |
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Originally Posted By TargetTime: Do you know the production year of your 10/22? Originally Posted By TargetTime: Originally Posted By hrt4me: I had absolutely no issues whatsoever this morning, and it fed both CCI Mini-Mags and Remington Golden Bullet bulk pack perfectly. I did not even polish nor even lubricate the 10/22, bone dry, first time it's ever been fired. It was also nice Mars added some new installation videos on their Instagram page so I could double-check my work. I would highly recommend, 10/10. I used a brand new, unfired Fletcher 11-22 open-top receiver, and these were literally the first rounds I fired from my build I used that receiver because I have the same one with my Norrell 10/22, and I like being able to open it quickly to clean everything without having to take apart the receiver from the stock (it also helped that Fletcher is a mere 5 miles down the road from my house) Interesting fact: this Mars frt fires relatively slower than my Norrell 10/22 ! I did not bring along the Norrell to the range this morning, but I'll bring it next time and do a comparison video side-by-side... |
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Originally Posted By hrt4me: I used a brand new, unfired Fletcher 11-22 open-top receiver, and these were literally the first rounds I fired from my build I used that receiver because I have the same one with my Norrell 10/22, and I like being able to open it quickly to clean everything without having to take apart the receiver from the stock (it also helped that Fletcher is a mere 5 miles down the road from my house) Interesting fact: this Mars frt fires relatively slower than my Norrell 10/22 ! I did not bring along the Norrell to the range this morning, but I'll bring it next time and do a comparison video side-by-side... |
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Originally Posted By Polarbear31: $775 seems pretty steep. How about a conversion service? Still waiting on my order from 5/13. What is $775? I see $290: https://marstrigger.com/1022-f-r-t |
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Originally Posted By TargetTime: Thanks for the info, wasn't aware of this design. Fletcher Rifleworks 11/22 open-top receiver with top cover unlocked and slid back: Attached File top cover removed, revealing the charging handle and bolt, which can easily be removed from the top without having to fully disassemble the carbine by removing the barreled action from the stock: Attached File this feature is a huge benefit for fast RoF .22LR due to how inherently dirty the rimfire round is, thus I have this receiver for both my transferable Norrell 10/22 and now for this Mars FRT |
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Originally Posted By TargetTime: Thanks for the info, wasn't aware of this design.  NOT YOUR GRANDAD'S 10/22 - FLETCHER 11/22 |
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I was referring to the bolt. |
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| Well I sent another email and received a reply and it was shipped today! I'm working out of town so it will be a while until I can install it and I will give an update when I do. |
Never bring a green and orange water pistol to a gunfight. Old_Painless
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Originally Posted By GunsAndGoats: OST.....got a few 10/22s around. But that open top receiver looks slick. I got my second Mars frt yesterday, now I just gotta drive down the road to stop in at Fletcher Rifleworks to pick up another 11/22 open-top receiver for the next build |
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I ordered mine on 4/10 and just got it a few days ago. Installed it tonight and I can't get it to work at all. Function with the trigger group out of the receiver is fine, but it won't fire with the trigger group installed. Pulling the trigger forces the transfer bar (or whatever Mars calls it) to rotate up out of the trigger housing before the hammer falls. It seems like the bolt is preventing the transfer bar from rotating far enough to release the hammer when the trigger group is pinned to the receiver. I guess it's possible I'm doing something wrong, but so far I'm dead in the water.  Any thoughts? |
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Got mine in the mail today and installed it. Trigger works ok-ish by itself, but when installed in the gun the bolt locks closed and won't move. From what I've googled it looks like this is a problem with the fitment of the trip bar against the hammer axle? I'm going to have to keep tinkering. I really hate FRTs that are not self contained trigger groups. There is so much room for error letting a gorilla like me install things. |
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Originally Posted By JsARCLIGHT: Got mine in the mail today and installed it. Trigger works ok-ish by itself, but when installed in the gun the bolt locks closed and won't move. From what I've googled it looks like this is a problem with the fitment of the trip bar against the hammer axle? I'm going to have to keep tinkering. I really hate FRTs that are not self contained trigger groups. There is so much room for error letting a gorilla like me install things. their installation videos indicate that may be when you have to ever so slightly trim that rear angled surface on the trip bar |
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Originally Posted By JsARCLIGHT: Before I start cutting anything, because me and power tools should not be unsupervised, I'm going to try a few other things. What kind of trigger housing are people using for theirs? modern polymer housing (not older metal housing, not BX housing) |
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I can't get this thing to work for the life of me. I'm installing it on a Brownells receiver gun that works 100% with its normal Brownells bolt and BX trigger pack. First I tried installing the FRT in a polymer BX trigger housing with a Brownells bolt in my Brownells receiver... trigger won't release, and if you install it with the hammer down the bolt will not cycle. Transferred the parts to a metal OEM Ruger trigger housing with the Brownells bolt. Same problem. Changed out the bolt for an OEM Ruger. Same problem. I've watched a few YouTube how to videos and my trigger goes together just like theirs do. I do not see anything "wrong" with the trigger itself. It "works" when removed from the action. But the second it gets installed the bolt freezes shut with the hammer down or the trigger is dead with the hammer cocked. Adjusting the worm screw in the trigger does nothing. The trip bar that everyone says is the culprit is moving freely around the hammer axle, but it is making contact with what I can only describe as the reset arm of the trigger which keeps it popped up a little. My guess is this is how the thing works but also is what my bolt is getting locked up by. I cannot see how to fix any of this without grinding down parts that I don't think I should grind down as it will affect the actual FRT function of the trigger. I also do not feel like spending more money on different bolts or parts trying to rectify what appears to be a repeating problem. |
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After a lot of tinkering last night I think I have identified the issue. There is a good chance it is the hammer that is causing the problem. With the hammer, its spring assembly, and the pin removed I can install the trip bar, spring, ejector arm, and pin and it lies flat / flush with the trigger housing top. When I install the hammer assembly it pushes the trigger very slightly rearward, which in turn moves the trip bar actuator arm on the trigger forward, which again in turn pushes on the trip bar causing it to raise up slightly. I think it is this condition where the trip bar is being pushed slightly up that is causing the bolt to hang / drag against it. The trip bar is not making any contact at all with the hammer. After some searching online I can see that there are multiple different iterations of hammer for the 10/22, all of which have slightly different geometry in the crucial lockup area where it rides on the trigger disconnector. Despite not wanting to spend more money on parts I went on eBay and bought two different hammers, one an older Ruger that uses bushings and the other a newer Ruger that differs from the hammer I have now. One those new hammers get here I can test my hypothesis. |
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Originally Posted By JsARCLIGHT: After a lot of tinkering last night I think I have identified the issue. There is a good chance it is the hammer that is causing the problem. With the hammer, its spring assembly, and the pin removed I can install the trip bar, spring, ejector arm, and pin and it lies flat / flush with the trigger housing top. When I install the hammer assembly it pushes the trigger very slightly rearward, which in turn moves the trip bar actuator arm on the trigger forward, which again in turn pushes on the trip bar causing it to raise up slightly. I think it is this condition where the trip bar is being pushed slightly up that is causing the bolt to hang / drag against it. The trip bar is not making any contact at all with the hammer. After some searching online I can see that there are multiple different iterations of hammer for the 10/22, all of which have slightly different geometry in the crucial lockup area where it rides on the trigger disconnector. Despite not wanting to spend more money on parts I went on eBay and bought two different hammers, one an older Ruger that uses bushings and the other a newer Ruger that differs from the hammer I have now. One those new hammers get here I can test my hypothesis. Mars said their FRT does *NOT* work with the older metal trigger housings, and it also does *NOT* work with the BX-1 trigger components (different hammer and disconnect) |
| I finally got mine and installed it. It fires 2-4 rounds then I get a dead trigger. Of course, the Allen wrench the correct size that I need to adjust the trigger screw is MIA in all four of my Allen wrench sets. Once I can get the trigger screw adjusted, I am confident it will work. I also did change the factory springs out with the supplied springs. |
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Originally Posted By Polarbear31: I finally got mine and installed it. It fires 2-4 rounds then I get a dead trigger. Of course, the Allen wrench the correct size that I need to adjust the trigger screw is MIA in all four of my Allen wrench sets. Once I can get the trigger screw adjusted, I am confident it will work. I also did change the factory springs out with the supplied springs. I am still struggling with mine. Seems like there is a goldilocks position for that screw which SORT OF makes it work, but its not consistent. Very frustrating so far. |
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OK, so after literally swapping every part out of the trigger group to the point that I now have an entirely new trigger group, the FRT works by hand. I'll have to do a live fire test this weekend. So my current advice to anyone looking to get one of these is unless you have a factory NON BX, NON early metal Ruger trigger pack or a Volquartsen pack, this will not work without parts swaps to the point that you might as well start with one of those trigger packs. I basically got there buying a piece at a time until it hand cycled, and I wish I would have just started with one of those packs to begin with. Of course I could still go out and test it this weekend and it is a complete brick. If that happens this thing is getting thrown out the window into traffic on the way home. |
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Well confidence is waning. I loaded up a 10 round factory magazine and got a 5 round burst. Dead trigger. Live round in the chamber. Removed the mag and ejected the live round. Inserted the mag with the remaining 4 rounds and 4 rounds burst. Next was a BX15 mag. 3 round burst. Dead trigger with live round in the chamber. I incrementally adjusted the trigger set screw. The results were either 3 to 5 round burst with a dead trigger. So it seems a little more fiddling needs to happen. When I installed the MARS I replaced the factory springs with the supplied springs. I may go back to the factory recoil spring. Some of the live rounds in the chamber exhibited light firing pin strikes. Maybe bolt bounce is at play or the hammer is following the bolt. I have several bolts and trigger groups to try. The bolt I used is ramped. I don't know if that affects anything. So I plan on starting with factory springs and bolt to see where to go. For me there I have no problem modifying parts to get this to run. It reminds me of when people had problems with the original RB FRT came out. |
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| Well I got the MARS FRT installed today. I did not use the replacement recoil spring and it took about 3/4 of a turn in on the trigger adjustment screw but it works! I had feeding issues at first but a magazine change fixed it, the magazine that was having issues was just sticking so I'll give it a spray of dry lube. I installed it in a new polymer take off trigger group I bought from ebay. |
Never bring a green and orange water pistol to a gunfight. Old_Painless
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Originally Posted By jrinfoley: Well I got the MARS FRT installed today. I did not use the replacement recoil spring and it took about 3/4 of a turn in on the trigger adjustment screw but it works! I had feeding issues at first but a magazine change fixed it, the magazine that was having issues was just sticking so I'll give it a spray of dry lube. I installed it in a new polymer take off trigger group I bought from ebay.  MARS announced today (via Instagram) they finally got caught up on all their orders resulting from 22Plinkster's video last Spring and now have these in stock with no wait |
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I have had three to five round bursts with a dead trigger. The rounds that were chambered but didn't fire showed light primer strikes. To me it looks like a bolt bounce issue. I did replace the stock springs with the MARS springs. I am trying this trigger in a 6-inch suppressed SBR. So, I think I am going to start with putting the factory recoil spring back in. Ammo used is CCI LRHV |
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Originally Posted By Polarbear31: I have had three to five round bursts with a dead trigger. The rounds that were chambered but didn't fire showed light primer strikes. To me it looks like a bolt bounce issue. I did replace the stock springs with the MARS springs. I am trying this trigger in a 6-inch suppressed SBR. So, I think I am going to start with putting the factory recoil spring back in. Ammo used is CCI LRHV |
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