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I use an old beach towel first to remove 99% of the water droplets from the exterior of the case, just dump them in and roll them from end to end holding the towel at both ends. This prevents water spots while drying. Then they go into the frankford brass dryer. It works great. I just dry a batch while the next batch is tumbling, 2-3 hours. The frankford dehydrator is just a rebadged food grade model. But their price is pretty in line with food grade ones. Biggest disadvantage on theirs is missing a timer but not a big deal. If I want to run an overnight I just set the temp to the lowest setting. |
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Originally Posted By Lothbrok: What are you guys using for brass drying? I was looking into some of the brass/food dehydrators to upgrade from my oven method. Dropped it, broke the base, ordered another one, so I could use the trays from the broken one on the newer one. Works great. Originally bought it for beef jerky but don't make that much jerky any more. Attached File |
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BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
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Originally Posted By Lothbrok: What are you guys using for brass drying? I was looking into some of the brass/food dehydrators to upgrade from my oven method. I just put my brass on a cookie sheet. Turn the convection oven on to 250° and bake the brass for 30 minutes. Actually have a bunch of 9mm in the oven drying out now. After a 3 hour tumble in the FART. Looks new again all the black water went straight into the sink with a screen over the opening to protect from pins going down the drain too(on the non disposal side  ).Edit spellingAttached File |
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Originally Posted By AssaultRifler: Just tried this for the first time this morning got good results. Seems to leave some type of waxy film on the brass, hard to tell. Already had some so didn't go out and buy this just for WT https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/mc1_JPG-1767139.JPG https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/59119/mc2_JPG-1767141.JPG 1. first result above, got the bling, love it 2. second time used Meguiars got weird discolored brass, assumed I used too much citric acid 3. did a batch with Dawn and exactly 1/2 tsp of citric acid to confirm 1/2 tsp citric acid is OK, it was, got BLING! 4. did another batch with Meguiars and exactly 1/2 tsp of citric acid and got weird coloring again. 2 out of 3 times got bad results! I'll stick with Dawn for now until I use up all the Meguiars stuff during normal course of car washing. A little of this stuff goes a long way, so 2 or 3 years from now, I have an extra jug of it. There's no use experimenting trying to get this stuff to work when there's known stuff that works. Brass is OK, not damaged, just fugly Attached File |
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BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
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Ran my first load of 9mm cases in my FART with the supplied cleaner, and I am VERY impressed with how easy it is vs dry tumbling. I have some citric acid coming from amazon (rather than lemishine) thanks to a suggestion here, and will probably go back and reclean my stock of cases. Right now, I have not even opened up the stainless media. I do not need my brass looking brand new, just clean and I am impressed how well water + chemicals do the job. I am looking forward not having to knock out media from all of my bottle necked rifle cases... I should of purchased a wet tumbler years ago. 
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I like pants with pockets.
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After doing some thinking, here's how I'm going to change my pistol and rifle reloading. Rifle has always been a two pass effort even with a progressive machine. I size all my rifle brass on a single stage press then finish on progressive Pistol My new pistol process is: 1. decap dirty cases on a single stage press with universal decapping die 2. wet tumble - this cleans the primer pocket/blings the brass 3. load on a progressive (size, bell, seat new primer, powder, bullet, crimp) Old process was: 1. dry tumble 2. load on a progressive (size, bell, seat new primer, powder, bullet, crimp) this makes loading pistol a 2 step process versus the old 1 step process Rifle Rifle has always been a two pass effort even with a progressive machine. I size all my rifle brass on a single stage press then finish on progressive My new rifle process will be: 1. dry tumble 2. size which decaps on a single stage press 3. wet tumble this cleans the primer pocket/blings the brass/removes sizing lube 4. trim with Giraud trimmer 5. deal with primer pocket crimps 6. load on a progressive press (seat primer, powder, bullet, crimp) Step 3 is my new modified step for rifle. It was dry tumble just to remove the sizing lube. This keeps loading rifle a 2 step process (size on single stage/wet tumble/load the case on progressive) instead of turning into a 3 step process (decap/wet tumble/size/load the case on progressive). Dry tumbling before sizing is still one of my steps. Dry tumbling for step 1. is still faster than wet tumbling and there's no value IMHO to wet tumble unless the case has been decapped or else the primer pockets won't get cleaned and it makes the cases dry faster. |
Trump 2020!
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
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Originally Posted By Lothbrok: What are you guys using for brass drying? I was looking into some of the brass/food dehydrators to upgrade from my oven method. Yep, I use the dehydrator Harbor Freight used to sell. Works great. I put the mesh ends on one side of the FART and sit it on the dehydrator so the vent air passes through it which dries the pins stuck to the inside and they drop down. For the steel pins, I "towel" them off and spread them around the bottom of a large plastic box. If sufficiently spread out, they will dry on a couple days. |
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Originally Posted By Trash_Panda: Yep, I use the dehydrator Harbor Freight used to sell. Works great. I put the mesh ends on one side of the FART and sit it on the dehydrator so the vent air passes through it which dries the pins stuck to the inside and they drop down. For the steel pins, I "towel" them off and spread them around the bottom of a large plastic box. If sufficiently spread out, they will dry on a couple days. I quit worrying about drying my pins. I dump them all back in the drum with one of the screen end caps, drain as much water as possible, and every now and then shake the drum. To move the pins downward that are initially water stuck, I move them down by waving my stick magnet on the outside of the drum |
Trump 2020!
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
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Originally Posted By Lothbrok: What are you guys using for brass drying? I was looking into some of the brass/food dehydrators to upgrade from my oven method. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Ronco-Ronco-FD1005WHGEN-5-Tray-Electric-Food-Dehydrator/5000257757. |
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One odd thing that happened, cleaning some 45 acp, somehow about 15-20 primed brass ended up in the batch. So cycled and "dry" fired in my pistol to set off the primers for decapping and wouldn't you know about 60% fired off. A couple were weak sounding but most that did fire sounded pretty strong. my CSB for the day |
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Originally Posted By FALARAK: Timer died on my FART. Just opened a support request with Frankford.... will see what they do. Got a response: "I have placed an order for you for a replacement. Order number is ########. We are out of stock right now, but once they come in your order will automatically ship out." Good thing this timer doesn't keep it from working. That would stink, waiting on parts and being unable to tumble. |
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Originally Posted By FALARAK: Got a response: "I have placed an order for you for a replacement. Order number is ########. We are out of stock right now, but once they come in your order will automatically ship out." Good thing this timer doesn't keep it from working. That would stink, waiting on parts and being unable to tumble. Wonder how long this will take? Seems like they don't even know |
Trump 2020!
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
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Originally Posted By PalmettoState: Ran my first load of 9mm cases in my FART with the supplied cleaner, and I am VERY impressed with how easy it is vs dry tumbling. I have some citric acid coming from amazon (rather than lemishine) thanks to a suggestion here, and will probably go back and reclean my stock of cases. Right now, I have not even opened up the stainless media. I do not need my brass looking brand new, just clean and I am impressed how well water + chemicals do the job. I am looking forward not having to knock out media from all of my bottle necked rifle cases... I should of purchased a wet tumbler years ago. I haven’t joined the “bling” club yet as I also haven’t used pins with my FART. Heck, I’m just using cheap dish soap from Dollar Tree (my wife loves that place for some reason). I run the FART for two hours. I’ve ran four batches through so far. I fill the drum about 3/4 full of decapped brass, fill with hot water up to the “ledge”, a healthy squeeze of soap, and let it run. I rinse out the drum/brass in the tub. Boy the water that comes out is dirty! Of course the last batch was all range pickup and my 308’s after suppressed AR10 use..... I dry on a beach towel for a while then sort it into containers. I’m very happy with how clean the brass ends up. Not spotless but more than good enough for me!  556, 300 Blackout, 30-06, and 308 in this batch. 2 hours with just dish soap. No pins. |
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 FART turning for noise and box information. Keep your hair out of it. |
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Explain this mystery please... My brass recovery technique is as follows: 1. Stand drum on end 2. remove locking collar 3. hold magnet transfer tool close to clear cap 4. remove clear cap 5. put on the optional screen 6. lock it down 7. turn the drum over (black water starts coming out which is good) 8. remove locking collar 9. hold magnet transfer tool close to clear cap 10. slowly raise one edge of the clear cap >>> At this point a pin or two will literally jump from the top of the drum 3 feet away like it has a wild hair up it's arse. Sometimes the magnet transfer tool will catch it in the act, but not always, these like Mexican Jumping Pins or something.<<<< 11. at this point I hose the brass from now open drum, the water drains from the bottom of the drum with the optional screen 12. then I use the media separator |
Trump 2020!
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
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Because all the pins are on the second end you are opening - I *never* open it. I simply mark that side with a magic marker, and I open only ONE side, slowly, and NEVER have a pin fall out. Install the screen, and dump water. Stand back up, tap the screen a few times to make the pins fall away, and open it and fill with water. Install screen, dump while turning drum. Repeat 2 more times. Always works for me, and I do this in my kitchen sink, never had a pin go down the disposal yet. Countless batches at this point. |
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Yeah the pins are at the end of the cap when I open it, but the actual jumping of the pins is what puzzles me, has to be like some magnetic repulsion or something. Maybe they're getting magnetized by the magnetic transfer tool --- In other news Armor All Wash and Wax is doing well. Being more scientific now and using an old laundry detergent measuring scoop to measure how much W&W I'm using as a baseline in case I need to add more or less down the road. |
Trump 2020!
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
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Originally Posted By AssaultRifler: Explain this mystery please... My brass recovery technique is as follows: 1. Stand drum on end 2. remove locking collar 3. hold magnet transfer tool close to clear cap 4. remove clear cap 5. put on the optional screen 6. lock it down 7. turn the drum over (black water starts coming out which is good) 8. remove locking collar 9. hold magnet transfer tool close to clear cap 10. slowly raise one edge of the clear cap >>> At this point a pin or two will literally jump from the top of the drum 3 feet away like it has a wild hair up it's arse. Sometimes the magnet transfer tool will catch it in the act, but not always, these like Mexican Jumping Pins or something.<<<< 11. at this point I hose the brass from now open drum, the water drains from the bottom of the drum with the optional screen 12. then I use the media separator Gonna need a video. |
"We were all focused on when technology would overcome human strengths, like intelligence and creativity. What nobody was watching for, and what has already happened is that technology has overcome human weaknesses, like addiction and tribalism."
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Originally Posted By FALARAK: Got a response: "I have placed an order for you for a replacement. Order number is ########. We are out of stock right now, but once they come in your order will automatically ship out." Good thing this timer doesn't keep it from working. That would stink, waiting on parts and being unable to tumble. Originally Posted By FALARAK: Originally Posted By FALARAK: Timer died on my FART. Just opened a support request with Frankford.... will see what they do. Got a response: "I have placed an order for you for a replacement. Order number is ########. We are out of stock right now, but once they come in your order will automatically ship out." Good thing this timer doesn't keep it from working. That would stink, waiting on parts and being unable to tumble. Well, looks like it took 22 days, including shipping time. They never contacted me again, no shipping email, nothing. It just showed up. Here is the bizarre part. I didn't receive a new timer. They literally shipped me an entire retail package, with new tumbler base, drum, pins, solution, everything.... in the retail box. I must admit I am thrilled, as now I have a backup, but what an expensive solution to just a failed timer! Bonus - the new base motor is WAY, WAY quieter than my original one. Given some people think they are super loud and some people feel they are the same noise as a vibratory, I'm guessing this is just hit and miss. |
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Take your old one and hard wire around the timer, and use an electronic plug in one like this. I use them on my vibratory tumblers. |
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What could be turning my brass different colors or am I just overthinking it and don't worry about it? I'm using a squirt of dawn and 2 tablespoons of lemonshine lemonshineAttached File |
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Originally Posted By jmboom: What could be turning my brass different colors or am I just overthinking it and don't worry about it? I'm using a squirt of dawn and 2 tablespoons of lemonshine lemonshine |
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Originally Posted By Reorx: I use 1/2 of a (measuring) teaspoon (about 1/12th of the amount you use) per batch in my FART - usually 1 gallon of water... in addition, the case on the left looks shot peened (as though you ran it way too long or with very aggressive medium). My typical run is 1 to 1.5 hours with 5 pound of SS pins. Gotcha yeah I ran it 2 hours and it was just a small amount like 20 pieces of brass just trying it out. With stainless pins. Thank you for the response ill shorten my time and use less lemonshine |
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Too much Lemishine. With my well water I use a 45 ACP case full for 1 gallon of water. Water chemistry varies with your location, so experiment with the amount of Lemishine to get the bling. Start by cutting the amount of Lemishine in half.  9mm from a couple of days ago. |
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Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
Ended up with some orange brass today. I'd gotten some "nickel" 223 brass that ended up being the purple tinted stuff from Winchester. It's Fed training ammo. Anyway, I ran about 75 cases of that along with a bunch of 308 and 9mm. Just my standard dishwasher detergent and 3 hours in the FART. Brass came out with some kind of residue on it and very tarnished. I pulled out the "purple" Winchester cases (that now look like crap) and re-ran it with fresh water and soap. Brass came back clean, but still tarnished. Just got done running for another hour with a little detergent and some white vinegar. Cases are nice and clean, but dull and kind of mustard yellow. Any suggestions on how to pretty them up? |
"He had the right hand of the devil strapped tightly to his side."-The Last Cowboy
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Originally Posted By compuvette: Ended up with some orange brass today. I'd gotten some "nickel" 223 brass that ended up being the purple tinted stuff from Winchester. It's Fed training ammo. Anyway, I ran about 75 cases of that along with a bunch of 308 and 9mm. Just my standard dishwasher detergent and 3 hours in the FART. Brass came out with some kind of residue on it and very tarnished. I pulled out the "purple" Winchester cases (that now look like crap) and re-ran it with fresh water and soap. Brass came back clean, but still tarnished. Just got done running for another hour with a little detergent and some white vinegar. Cases are nice and clean, but dull and kind of mustard yellow. https://i.imgur.com/ao3458W.jpg Any suggestions on how to pretty them up? Also define "soap", use Dawn, I used Meguires car wash soap and got weird colored brass Dawn + citric/Lemishine is a winning combination |
Trump 2020!
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
BLM stands for Burn, Loot, Murder
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Originally Posted By jmboom: Gotcha yeah I ran it 2 hours and it was just a small amount like 20 pieces of brass just trying it out. With stainless pins. Thank you for the response ill shorten my time and use less lemonshine Originally Posted By jmboom: Originally Posted By Reorx: I use 1/2 of a (measuring) teaspoon (about 1/12th of the amount you use) per batch in my FART - usually 1 gallon of water... in addition, the case on the left looks shot peened (as though you ran it way too long or with very aggressive medium). My typical run is 1 to 1.5 hours with 5 pound of SS pins. |
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Originally Posted By Reorx: Correction - I use a Lee 1.9 cc Dipper of Lemishine. 1/2 teaspoon is actually 2.5 cc. DryFlash's 45 ACP case is 1.8 cc (cylinder with 0.445" (11.3mm) diameter and 0.730" (17.9mm) inside height)... He and I are using the same amount of Lemishine per gallon of tap water. He has well water, I have water utility water. He has probably done testing to find the optimal amount... I have not done any testing... Originally Posted By Reorx: Originally Posted By jmboom: Originally Posted By Reorx: I use 1/2 of a (measuring) teaspoon (about 1/12th of the amount you use) per batch in my FART - usually 1 gallon of water... in addition, the case on the left looks shot peened (as though you ran it way too long or with very aggressive medium). My typical run is 1 to 1.5 hours with 5 pound of SS pins. I use 1 TSP. City water. Comes out great. If I ever get a weird batch I would not sweat it.... just shoot it. Its clean. |
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Originally Posted By Reorx: Correction - I use a Lee 1.9 cc Dipper of Lemishine. 1/2 teaspoon is actually 2.5 cc. DryFlash's 45 ACP case is 1.8 cc (cylinder with 0.445" (11.3mm) diameter and 0.730" (17.9mm) inside height)... He and I are using the same amount of Lemishine per gallon of tap water. He has well water, I have water utility water. He has probably done testing to find the optimal amount... I have not done any testing... Started with a 9mm case, cases not really clean so went to 45 ACP case. That worked and I never varied from that. Note that I am a handloader so I use an empty case to measure Lemishine. Cooks use teaspoons, scientists use CC's.  |
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Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: Cooks use teaspoons, scientists use CC's. |
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Originally Posted By Reorx: Ummmm, well... the Lee dippers are all labeled with their volume in CCs right on the handle... And I just happen to know the cc conversion of common kitchen measurements... yeah, that's it... that's the ticket... yeah, just lucky... I just never got into the CC thing with Lee dippers, I do have a set I use every once and a while. |
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Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: Just poking a little fun at you.  From wikipedia about Lovitz - "One of his most notable SNL characters was "Tommy Flanagan, The Pathological Liar" who used an old Humphrey Bogart line "Yeah! That's the ticket!" as a catchphrase to punctuate painfully elaborated implausible lies."... |
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Originally Posted By Reorx: Yeah, I know... and I was having a little fun back with my best John Lovitz impression (it loses something in writing)... From wikipedia about Lovitz - "One of his most notable SNL characters was "Tommy Flanagan, The Pathological Liar" who used an old Humphrey Bogart line "Yeah! That's the ticket!" as a catchphrase to punctuate painfully elaborated implausible lies."... Oh well. |
Selling agent for Algores carbon credit scam.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
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Originally Posted By jmboom: Does it matter if you clean nickel plated brass along with brass? I've never had a problem running them together... Attached File |
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Found a Platinum series locally last week and ran it for the first time yesterday. I used the included FA cleaning solution. Instructions said fill to the base of the neck with water and add the entire packet. I used all the pins and 300 LC 7.62, once-fired cases then ran the tumbler for a 2 hour cycle. Full bling in one pass including all the primer pockets. These cases came from a member of the board several years ago and were all unsized and decapped with crimp removed. Been reloading for decades and am now a convert to wet tumbling. |
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Zombie thread post. First run for me , did a pinless tumble for 1 1/2 hrs. 2 caps of car wash and about 2 .45 cases of lemi shine. Impressive results , save the primer pockets. Not sure messing with the pins is needed. About 400 mixed cases, majority were 3006. Attached File |
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I finally found something odd (sorry, no photo) -- two of the pins that come in the Frankfort kit stuck side-by-side in a 9mm flash hole. Never had that happen before. Changing subjects ... Shameless pitch: one of our own arfcommers designed and produces a fantastic wrench for tightening and removing the rotary tumbler drum end caps. I've found this prevents any initial leakage where soapy water pools on my garage floor. You can buy them directly from him (saves a handling fee) or direct from his flea-bay site. I bought the two-handle wrench: Attached File Here's the arfcom thread link: Here's the flea-bay site: FART Wrench |
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Originally Posted By JohnParker55: Zombie thread post. First run for me , did a pinless tumble for 1 1/2 hrs. 2 caps of car wash and about 2 .45 cases of lemi shine. Impressive results , save the primer pockets. Not sure messing with the pins is needed. About 400 mixed cases, majority were 3006. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/341059/0DEDAEA6-E477-4602-AAE3-735A316332E9_jpe-2415511.JPG This is one of the threads that have the archive toggle set so this thread will not sink into the archives. Have a question about a fart, it's easy to go to this thread for info. The last 3 pages of this forum is full of these kind of threads. |
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Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
Shooting and Reloading, one hobby feeds the other.
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Originally Posted By dryflash3: @JohnParker55 This is one of the threads that have the archive toggle set so this thread will not sink into the archives. Have a question about a fart, it's easy to go to this thread for info. The last 3 pages of this forum is full of these kind of threads. Thank you for that ! I never would have looked at the last 3 pages and would have missed the wealth of knowledge there.  |
GOA-SAF >nra
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Originally Posted By JohnParker55: Zombie thread post. First run for me , did a pinless tumble for 1 1/2 hrs. 2 caps of car wash and about 2 .45 cases of lemi shine. Impressive results , save the primer pockets. Not sure messing with the pins is needed. About 400 mixed cases, majority were 3006. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/341059/0DEDAEA6-E477-4602-AAE3-735A316332E9_jpe-2415511.JPG |
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Originally Posted By Hamel: I haven't run it with the pins yet either. Pinless gets it plenty clean for me and I don't need to hassle with separating them. Haven't run it without pins but separating them is no big deal. It only takes a minute or two to spin them out and you need to do that anyway to rinse them. |
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Originally Posted By Lothbrok:
What are you guys using for brass drying? I was looking into some of the brass/food dehydrators to upgrade from my oven method. |
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Originally Posted By wildearp: Sunshine with brass laid out on a towel. In AZ at noon, probably takes 10 minutes. In the winter, I put them under a ceiling fan on low setting overnight. I used the broiler pan from an old oven & let them sit overnight in shop. No heating needed. |
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| If the sunshine isn't adequate, placing them on a cookie sheet and then in the oven at minimum setting (175) for about 30 minutes does the job. |
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