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Posted: 12/18/2024 10:39:23 PM EDT
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Quoted: Been using Hornady One Shot just like that for 2 decades. Might have to try this too. I made the mistake of trying one shot with rifle brass. Just doesn't work. It does work well on pistol brass. Makes the sizing process just a little bit easier and you don't need to remove it. |
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Quoted: I made the mistake of trying one shot with rifle brass. Just doesn't work. It does work well on pistol brass. Makes the sizing process just a little bit easier and you don't need to remove it. I have been using one shot with rifle brass for 26 years, no issues and ten-of-thousands of rounds loaded. If you can't get it to work, that is on you. |
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This the way. The only thing I use is the PEG75 version of lanolin as its water soluble. Fluidfilm is not water soluble, nor is it cheap. It use on the bottom of my vehicles in WI to help keep them from rusting away. |
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interesting. One common film forming compound are of the catagory of film forming amines. Where the amine group adheres to the metal surface and can e tenatious - which is the selling point. And I don't know if an amine on brass is a great idea, as it's known ammonia causes brass cracking. If it's being washed off same-day, probably not a big deal - but all the same, do you know the composition of this? |
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Quoted: I made the mistake of trying one shot with rifle brass. Just doesn't work. It does work well on pistol brass. Makes the sizing process just a little bit easier and you don't need to remove it. One Shot works great for rifle brass. I use it all the time. You just have to give it time to dry before you start resizing. |
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Hornady One Shot does work on rifle brass. You just have to apply it liberally and let it completely dry as stated above. But the Homemade Case Lube for Cheap Bastards works much better and takes way less for the same results. It is all I use now. Have sized thousands of cases from the first quart I made 6 years ago. |
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Quoted: I made the mistake of trying one shot with rifle brass. Just doesn't work. It does work well on pistol brass. Makes the sizing process just a little bit easier and you don't need to remove it. It absolutely does work and works better than anything. Folks that hate it just don't know how to use it. https://www.precisionreloading.com/cart.php#!l=FFA&i=393939 Get something like this, stand the mouth end up in the tray, take the can and go over one side at an angle like your painting them. Turn the tray around and do the same thing from the other side. Wait 5-10 min, bingo, bango! NEVER had a stuck case when using it properly. |
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Quoted: It absolutely does work and works better than anything. Folks that hate it just don't know how to use it. https://www.precisionreloading.com/cart.php#!l=FFA&i=393939 Get something like this, stand the mouth end up in the tray, take the can and go over one side at an angle like your painting them. Turn the tray around and do the same thing from the other side. Wait 5-10 min, bingo, bango! NEVER had a stuck case when using it properly. well, . . . the home brew stuff works better, and it much cheaper
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Put a piece of clean brass (or two) in a Ziploc baggie. Spray a ridiculous amount of the lube in the bag. Give the solvents time to evaporate, then seal the bag. Let it sit for a week and see if there is any discoloration or other changes to either the brass or the residual lube. If the materials are inert, there should not be any color change to either. That is not definitive on compatibility but a distinct color change implies a problem, an incompatibility, for sure. |
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This works great, lasts a long time |
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Composition of Fluid Film spray cans, per SDS - Chemical Name................................................................ CAS No .................Weight-% Trade Secret Refined petroleum oil, hydrotreated hea vy paraffinic ..........64742-54-7 .............40 - 80.........* Petroleum gases, liquified, sweetened ................................68476-86-8 .............1 - 25 ..........* Benzenesulfonic Acid, Di-C10-18-alky l derivs., calcium salts 93820-57-6............. 1 - 10...........* That looks like a petroleum distillate lube (a waxy oil). Am I mistaken? Hornady does not disclose the composition of One Shot, claiming protection as a trade secret. As far as I am concerned, One Shot Spray Case Lube is the worst lube on the market - far, far too many problems associated with its use. |
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Quoted: Composition of Fluid Film spray cans, per SDS - Chemical Name................................................................ CAS No .................Weight-% Trade Secret Refined petroleum oil, hydrotreated hea vy paraffinic ..........64742-54-7 .............40 - 80.........* Petroleum gases, liquified, sweetened ................................68476-86-8 .............1 - 25 ..........* Benzenesulfonic Acid, Di-C10-18-alky l derivs., calcium salts 93820-57-6............. 1 - 10...........* That looks like a petroleum distillate lube (a waxy oil). Am I mistaken? Hornady does not disclose the composition of One Shot, claiming protection as a trade secret. As far as I am concerned, One Shot Spray Case Lube is the worst lube on the market - far, far too many problems associated with its use. I tried to love the one shot years ago… so many stuck cases. It’s gremlin lube. You have to follow too many rules. Don’t size after midnight and such. I do like on my pistol brass. Home made Dillon lube is the best. Not sure why people bother with other junk. It’s also really good for your dry hands. |
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Quoted: @MouseBoy How do you know ? not being argumentative, just wondering. they say it's a trade secret Dillon is lanolin and alcohol, same as the homebrew posted above, and used by many of us here. IMO, it’s coconut based, judged by the Mk1 schnozz. Probably has lanolin and light petroleum in it. Works fine. Spray it fairly liberally, the cases should feel a bit wet, not just slippery. I haven’t noticed the propellant evaporating making much difference. Either used enough lube or you didn’t. If using an expander in the process, you absolutely need to get some inside the necks. IME it will not migrate enough to sufficiently lube inside necks. It must be put there. |
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Quoted: Been using Hornady One Shot just like that for 2 decades. Might have to try this too. This. I lay them out similar to the OP but single row/flat. Spray at 45 degree angle to get inside the mouth and on the body at the same time. Roll them over 180 degrees and repeat. I can do hundreds in 30 minutes in front of the TV. I've never noticed a difference from letting it dry or not. Only issues I've ever had were from not putting enough on, probably stuck less than 10 cases in my life. Case wax is a slow mess that doesn't work for anything close to the volume I need. I don't lube pistol. Been meaning to try the homebrew spray as well, but where I'm looking at least, it doesn't look much cheaper and I know one shot works for me. |
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Quoted: This. I lay them out similar to the OP but single row/flat. Spray at 45 degree angle to get inside the mouth and on the body at the same time. Roll them over 180 degrees and repeat. I can do hundreds in 30 minutes in front of the TV. I've never noticed a difference from letting it dry or not. Only issues I've ever had were from not putting enough on, probably stuck less than 10 cases in my life. Case wax is a slow mess that doesn't work for anything close to the volume I need. I don't lube pistol. Been meaning to try the homebrew spray as well, but where I'm looking at least, it doesn't look much cheaper and I know one shot works for me. Bolded. Brother! Take that party outside, or at least to the garage. Really don’t want to be airing out your IPA-thinned lubes in the house like that either. By the time I’m done spraying OS outside on a tin of 50-150 rifle cases, in half decent conditions, a lot of the solvent is evaporated and I’m satisfied with just leaving the propellant vapors outside. I don’t see why OS would behave that much differently than lanolin-IPA as far as evaporation of solvent. Squirt bottle negates propellant of course. My cans of OS list generics. I think it’s butane for propellant. |
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Quoted: This. I lay them out similar to the OP but single row/flat. Spray at 45 degree angle to get inside the mouth and on the body at the same time. Roll them over 180 degrees and repeat. I can do hundreds in 30 minutes in front of the TV. I've never noticed a difference from letting it dry or not. Only issues I've ever had were from not putting enough on, probably stuck less than 10 cases in my life. Case wax is a slow mess that doesn't work for anything close to the volume I need. I don't lube pistol. Been meaning to try the homebrew spray as well, but where I'm looking at least, it doesn't look much cheaper and I know one shot works for me. ![]() Hornady One Shot Case Lube for Dillon XL650 Just to re-iterate, it has to be sprayed into the mouth at a 45 degree angle.....just like this. |
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Quoted: Just to re-iterate, it has to be sprayed into the mouth at a 45 degree angle.....just like this. |
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Quoted: Just to re-iterate, it has to be sprayed into the mouth at a 45 degree angle.....just like this. A 10oz spray can of ONE SHOT is $21 at MIDWAY seems really expensive compared to the lanolin and alcohol mix posted above |
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Quoted: With the cost of one shot now... when my stock is gone... I'll be doing the home brew. I have used Imerial Sizing wax (still use), DILLON SPRAY!, Frankford Arsenal spray, RCBS lube pad, dry powder lube.... prefer One Shot hands down, I have never had a single issue. Not even a question for me. But I must agree, when the stash is gone, I am going to try the home brew. |
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