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Cel Shade/Cartoon Style. Cerakote and Paint Pens. (Page 1 of 2)
Posted: 7/31/2024 11:58:22 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Thor][Edited]
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Click: Imgur gallery of what I've done so far. I understand this look is out there and not going to be everyone's style, but I've had a lot of requests on how it's done. This is Cerakote and Uni Posca Acrylic Paint Pens Yes, you are correct, you cannot put acrylic paint on top of Cerakote and expect it to last. It will flake and scratch off in short order. You could lock it in with a clear topcoat, but I hate clear so this is not what we are doing either. So on to the actual coating. Every coat receiving pen work has to have equal cure time on all colors. This means some of the typical two tone practices don't work. On the gun below, you would normally spray all the parts teal, flash cure, assemble, and then spray the yellow fade. You would then have to do a partial cure again for the yellow in prep for the pen work, but doing so will way overcure the teal. The pen will flake or scratch off in short order. Attached File What I have to do is spray the internals of the parts, and every part that will be covered when assembled, do the typical flash cure, then assemble. The exterior is largely untouched. I then spray the entire assembly in one shot. First teal, 15min ambient cure, then the yellow. As you can see in the photo above, the colors do have a bit of a sheen to them...too bright for a drawing. To fix this, I come back and do shading an highlighting with darkened and lightened variations of the base coat(s). In this case, I mixed Armor Black with the teal and yellow (making a dark teal and dark yellow) to do some shading, and then I did the same with some Battle Ship Grey with the bases to add some highlights. These are very light and random dustings of color that give the coating a more pastel appearance. Next, I use some straight armor black do lightly shade some areas, creating shadows between the seams of parts. You can set your gun pressure to create splatter with the black to give it a grainer appearance as I did on this one. Attached File On to the pens! The paint pen needs to be applied to under cured Cerakote. Not the typical "tack free" 15 mins @ 185F flash cure we're used to. You want tacky. When you touch the part in the oven with a gloved finger, you get a little stickiness and a small amount of Cerakote transfer on the glove, pull it out and hang it. Once it cools to ambient temps is should be at no more than the normal "dry tack" feel that would signal removal from the oven if doing a normal flash cure. I go cooler. 12-15 mins at 165F. This will take some trial and error as everyone's oven will perform differently due to temp swings and whether you have circulation fans. For you at home guys doing this in the kitchen while your SO is out of town, keep the parts as far away from the element as possible and run the convection fan. Until I learned my over at these temps, I was checking at the 10 minute mark and every two minutes after until I found the sweet spot. HOWEVER, lets say you check at 10, 12, 14, and finally at 16 mins it has reached the right tackiness, THAT DOES NOT MEAN 16 MINS IS YOUR SWEET SPOT! You opened the door three times before that point and let heat out. You're sweet spot might only be 13-14 mins with out opening of the door, and 16 mins behind a closed door would be overcured. Better safe than sorry. If it's overcured, the whole job might be over. Cerakote is still a bit tacky after cooling, so you handle it very gently. I take apart the assembly as much as I can without leaving marks on the softer coating. If you do leave a mark...that's a great spot for a random pen marking, haha! I suspend it and “palm” it in my hand when doing the line work. I do sometimes get a little Cerakote transfer onto my gloves (a little is fine as long as you're not leaving an imprint, otherwise it's too soft), so that tells you what I mean by “tacky”. We want this because we are not painting the top of the Cerakote, we are essentially dyeing it. By keeping it tacky we are letting the water based paint seep into the coating and stain it. Once the moisture evaporates you have pretty much done nothing other than apply localized additive in the Cerakote. Keep the pen tip wet so it glides and doesn’t dig in. Be aware it can take up to a minute for the pen to dry and it can be smudged, so be careful! When drawing, don't strive for perfection or overthink it. Just do it! If you slip off an edge or a seam don't sweat it. It adds to the look. I have found my earlier jobs look more cartoony as my hand has steadied over time causing my lines to look too clean! I now have to make myself be careless to get the more "random" flaws. After you have the pen all laid out, finalize with a typical 15min @ 185F flash sure to cook out any moisture left from the pen, then bump the heat to whatever is safe on the parts for your final cure. And here's a final vid showing it really does look this way and the photos aren't photoshopped. https://imgur.com/a/vgPoJSy Here are a couple vids showing how the pen has become "one" with the cerakote. This is a light head that looked stupid and I had to redo anyway. Scratch test: Won't embed cause it's s short: CLICK HERE Acetone Test:  Acetone test |
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| I am a cerakote guy and had no idea this was a thing! Very cool looking!!! Like Borderlands. |
"Whoever makes himself great will be made humble. Whoever makes himself humble will be made great." -Jesus
"if it can be destroyed by the truth, it deserves to be destroyed by the truth" - Linus from Charlie Brown
"if it can be destroyed by the truth, it deserves to be destroyed by the truth" - Linus from Charlie Brown
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I've seen some Lowrider Mini Trucks done in that same style then clear coated, some in matte, some in gloss... Pretty wild I though. |
LARUEMINATI
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Originally Posted By Boom_Stick:
""AKs are for villagers you have to tell not to shit in their water supply.""
NRA Endowment Life Member
Originally Posted By Boom_Stick:
""AKs are for villagers you have to tell not to shit in their water supply.""
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Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: Is there a base paint type you would recommend other than Cerakote? I'm more interested in learning the technique as opposed to it being a Cerakote job. I don't. The only product I've ever used is Cerakote. I'm not sure how any of the air cure coatings would behave with the paint pens. |
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Originally Posted By ark86: This is what it looks like when someone with far less artistic ability makes an attempt. Switched it up over a couple days. Mostly happy with it, just can't seem to get the handguard right. https://i.ibb.co/PCRjjQt/20240808-224744.jpg https://i.ibb.co/H7xzg38/20240810-191937.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/dt71YL6/20240810-191145.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/L0DLK02/20240811-194318.jpg Nah man, it looks good! The handguard is all in your perception because you did it. To me I’d assume that’s how you intended and it looks right to me! |
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Originally Posted By ark86: This is what it looks like when someone with far less artistic ability makes an attempt. Switched it up over a couple days. Mostly happy with it, just can't seem to get the handguard right. https://i.ibb.co/PCRjjQt/20240808-224744.jpg https://i.ibb.co/H7xzg38/20240810-191937.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/dt71YL6/20240810-191145.jpghttps://i.ibb.co/L0DLK02/20240811-194318.jpg Strange. But I dig it. |
Can't never could 'til try came along.
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"All welchers should be removed from the EE".-Aimless
R.I.P. to the EE
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@Thor - Thanks for replying to my IM. What paint pens did you use for this? Some kind of refillable ones? Still using H series Cerakote? I'm guessing you have a small paint gun for the two main colors, then used an airbrush, then paint pens with mixed up cerakote in them? Once you fill the pens, you need to use it within a certain amount of time, correct? Thanks a ton! edit: also, what kind of surface prep did you do? Just wax and grease remover? |
كافر
Gun totin redneck fool
Gun totin redneck fool
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They are acrylic Uni Posca paint pens on top the Cerakote, but if you don't follow the directions closely it will not bond. I linked them at the top of the post. I used an Iwata LPH80 for spraying everything including the gradients. Surface prep was aircraft simple green bath, gas off in the oven, bath again, gas off, sandblast, and then spray. |
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The style is called Initial D It's very cool when done right, I'd like to get one or two of mine done but definitely don't have the skill or patience to do it myself. |
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Originally Posted By Thor: They are acrylic Uni Posca paint pens on top the Cerakote, but if you don't follow the directions closely it will not bond. I linked them at the top of the post. I used an Iwata LPH80 for spraying everything including the gradients. Surface prep was aircraft simple green bath, gas off in the oven, bath again, gas off, sandblast, and then spray. Thank you. Why are you cleaning so much before you blast? You are taking it down to bare metal, right? What are you doing for the plastic pieces? |
كافر
Gun totin redneck fool
Gun totin redneck fool
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Originally Posted By 68MUDSTUD: Thank you. Why are you cleaning so much before you blast? You are taking it down to bare metal, right? What are you doing for the plastic pieces? I don’t take aluminum down to bare metal if I can help it. The anodizing layer adds strength to the metal and it’s best to preserve it. I blast aluminum at 40-50psi just to etch the surface so the Cerakote has something to bite into. I will also preserve parkerizing if it’s in good shape. All the cleaning is to keep my sandblast media clean as I go from blast cabinet to spray booth. It is not ideal to clean your parts after blasting (aside from blowing the part clean with air). You want them as dry as possible before spraying. Hitting them with acetone or brake clean after sandblasting can be a gamble unless you’re in a very low humidity environment as the rapid temperature fluctuation (especially from a can of brake clean) will cause condensation and moisture will absorb into the metal. If I have to clean a part after blasting, I take a torch to it after the acetone has flashed off to ensure all the moisture gets pulled out. You’d be amazed at how much can come to the surface of a part that looks bone dry. Plastics get the same treatment, but a lower gas off temperature and only 35psi in the blast cabinet. Something like an AK goes in a 15gallon drum with a propane burner under it boiling concentrated simple green for two hours because that’s about the only way to guarantee you get the oil out of them without taking days of soaking and gassing out, lol. |
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Originally Posted By Thor: I don’t take aluminum down to bare metal if I can help it. The anodizing layer adds strength to the metal and it’s best to preserve it. I blast aluminum at 40-50psi just to etch the surface so the Cerakote has something to bite into. I will also preserve parkerizing if it’s in good shape. All the cleaning is to keep my sandblast media clean as I go from blast cabinet to spray booth. It is not ideal to clean your parts after blasting (aside from blowing the part clean with air). You want them as dry as possible before spraying. Hitting them with acetone or brake clean after sandblasting can be a gamble unless you’re in a very low humidity environment as the rapid temperature fluctuation (especially from a can of brake clean) will cause condensation and moisture will absorb into the metal. If I have to clean a part after blasting, I take a torch to it after the acetone has flashed off to ensure all the moisture gets pulled out. You’d be amazed at how much can come to the surface of a part that looks bone dry. Plastics get the same treatment, but a lower gas off temperature and only 35psi in the blast cabinet. Something like an AK goes in a 15gallon drum with a propane burner under it boiling concentrated simple green for two hours because that’s about the only way to guarantee you get the oil out of them without taking days of soaking and gassing out, lol. Thanks a ton for the info. Finally took the plunge on a 300blk jakl. Haven't even shot a 300 yet. Planning on doing this to it. (Already have a spare Sbr'ed lower and sandman-l) So basically just getting a profile for the cerakote to adhere to. Got it. What temps on the plastics? Next paycheck I might buy a sandblast cabinet. |
كافر
Gun totin redneck fool
Gun totin redneck fool
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Attached File I saw this driving around and remembered this thread. The effect wasn't great on the truck. I'm not sure if it's because of the size or the finish not being right. |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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My rattle canned contributions. The glidden line of paints are some quality paints. That’s what these were done in. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By DirtDivision: My rattle canned contributions. The glidden line of paints are some quality paints. That’s what these were done in. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245997/14C29CC5-1132-4E2F-9CB6-DC52115B163C_jpe-3458870.JPG Looks great! |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By DirtDivision: My rattle canned contributions. The glidden line of paints are some quality paints. That’s what these were done in. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245997/14C29CC5-1132-4E2F-9CB6-DC52115B163C_jpe-3458870.JPG Nice! |
PEEP SMACK
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Originally Posted By DirtDivision: My rattle canned contributions. The glidden line of paints are some quality paints. That’s what these were done in. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/245997/14C29CC5-1132-4E2F-9CB6-DC52115B163C_jpe-3458870.JPG Very well done! 
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Originally Posted By Thor: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66797/IMG_7716-3464956.jpg No way in hell that's not photoshopped. It looks incredible. |
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NorCal issued callsign: Big Ten.
scuba_steve issued callsign: Columbo
NorCal issued callsign: Big Ten.
scuba_steve issued callsign: Columbo
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Originally Posted By Thor: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66797/IMG_7716-3464956.jpg YEAH BOI |
PEEP SMACK
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Originally Posted By costanza: No way in hell that's not photoshopped. It looks incredible. Haha no photoshop. I even take videos for Instagram. I just use an iphone 12, an LED light ring, and I turn the black levels up 5% in google photos to compensate for the light washing it out.  
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Originally Posted By bigtex84: Is there someone out there that I can pay to do this? I will rattle can my guns but this is above my pay grade. The guns posted look amazing and remind me of playing Borderlands when I was in Iraq. 
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Land of the once free & the home of the narrative.
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Originally Posted By Thor: "Jakobs. We know if you've got wood in your hand, you're happy." https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66797/IMG_8161_Original-3522133.jpg |
If some of you put this much fervor into your community or church, instead of arguing with people voting for the same politician, the world would be a much better place. -Skg_Mre_Lght
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Originally Posted By Thor: "Jakobs. We know if you've got wood in your hand, you're happy." https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66797/IMG_8161_Original-3522133.jpg Yeah, that is awesome. |
I TOLD YOU IT WAS ONLY A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE THE LIBERALS CAME FOR OUR PANCAKES
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Originally Posted By Thor: "Jakobs. We know if you've got wood in your hand, you're happy." https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66797/IMG_8161_Original-3522133.jpg Nice! I have a 5 inch that you got me wanting to defile now. |
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Originally Posted By Torque556: Nice! I have a 5 inch that you got me wanting to defile now. Originally Posted By Torque556: Originally Posted By Thor: "Jakobs. We know if you've got wood in your hand, you're happy." https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/66797/IMG_8161_Original-3522133.jpg Nice! I have a 5 inch that you got me wanting to defile now. 
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I TOLD YOU IT WAS ONLY A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE THE LIBERALS CAME FOR OUR PANCAKES
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Originally Posted By beitodesstrafe: So my newest attempt: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/138374/1000048029-3522825.jpg |
If some of you put this much fervor into your community or church, instead of arguing with people voting for the same politician, the world would be a much better place. -Skg_Mre_Lght
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Originally Posted By OG1: you are getting good at this Originally Posted By OG1: Originally Posted By beitodesstrafe: So my newest attempt: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/138374/1000048029-3522825.jpg Thanks! |
I TOLD YOU IT WAS ONLY A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE THE LIBERALS CAME FOR OUR PANCAKES
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Originally Posted By OG1: you are getting good at this Originally Posted By OG1: Originally Posted By beitodesstrafe: So my newest attempt: https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/138374/1000048029-3522825.jpg I'M GETTING BETTER touched up my first attempt, now that I'm learning @thor  
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I TOLD YOU IT WAS ONLY A MATTER OF TIME BEFORE THE LIBERALS CAME FOR OUR PANCAKES
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Originally Posted By beitodesstrafe: I'M GETTING BETTER touched up my first attempt, now that I'm learning @thor https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/138374/1000048076-3524555.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/138374/1000048078-3524556.jpg That's way better than before |
"Freedom is a messy business." - LaRue_Tactical
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
I am a sack of blood, held together by un-tanned leather. . .
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Originally Posted By OG1: I am a cerakote guy and had no idea this was a thing! Very cool looking!!! Like Borderlands. FPNI! HUGE fan of the Borderlands franchise (we won't talk about the movie...) and these guns look like they're right out of the game... @Thor incredibly well done! |
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Originally Posted By beitodesstrafe: I'M GETTING BETTER touched up my first attempt, now that I'm learning @thor https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/138374/1000048076-3524555.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/138374/1000048078-3524556.jpg Following the lines of the camo really makes it pop! I’ve been experimenting with cel-shade camo, but I can’t get it to work with my preferred method layed out in this post. Gonna have to use clear coat. It’s going to look great, but it’s going to lose the flat and dry “paper-like” appearance. I was considering hitting the clear with 25psi in the sandblaster after curing to dull it out some, but that’s a bit risky! |
Cel Shade/Cartoon Style. Cerakote and Paint Pens. (Page 1 of 2)
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