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Posted: 1/8/2026 10:20:18 AM EDT
| I am thinking about building one to play with , tips suggestions ? |
RIP Jeff Reed. Tennessee Squire, Ga. Carry member, NRA,Non-puking 72 ounce drinker 2 of 6 Norcal call sign, Forgotten.
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Originally Posted By Vague: In for the details! Is there any such place that we can buy components or is that a no-no? I have access to a lathe and mill , I figure if I can not buy my own I will make them. |
RIP Jeff Reed. Tennessee Squire, Ga. Carry member, NRA,Non-puking 72 ounce drinker 2 of 6 Norcal call sign, Forgotten.
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Just finished a modular one. What exactly are you looking for? I'd go w/ a 1-5/8" OD tube by about 7-9" Blast spacing around 2-1/2" Make your first spacer in the 3/4"-7/8" area and progressively decrease their length as you move to the exit. 60° included angle for baffle face Overbore your baffles ~.06. I use an "U" [.368in] drill for 30cal and cut the hole in the end cap a bit larger (around a "W" [.386] drill) Clipping tool diameter = ~40-50% bore dia x a depth of ~100-120% cutter dia If I remember tonight, I'll post some pics from my last build. Originally Posted By Vague: In for the details! Is there any such place that we can buy components or is that a no-no? Head over to the Form1boards and check out the resources and vendors section. They'll be the ones to have the current sellers of what you're after. You can even have several members (machinists and SOTs) make you custom parts. |
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I made a couple out of titanium with the first 2 baffles heat treated stainless. There was a handy chart on the form1 forums with bore size and clip size/depth. I just bought the reamer in that bore size from mcmaster and yee-haw'd it close enough with an endmill to what was on the chart for the clips. 
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This is the inner core for my .30. form1justdone Will be using a metal outer core as the docs suggest. I posted the timelapse video of it printing here:
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I made one as a personal challenge to see if I could make a 12”or less can quieter than any of my commercial cans, and no heavier than a griffin 30 sdk, for under $200 using only stuff purchased from amazon (incl any additional tooling) and a spare a2 adapter I already had (though I later swapped it for a QD adapter). I was successful on all counts. It’s a 10” seamless 3al-25v grade 9 titanium tube, 1.5” ID, 1.57” OD with 7075 AL spacers and all 304 SS baffles (plus one titanium “v” baffle added after the picture). There’s a perforated blast baffle followed by a solid flat blast baffle, then 4 conical baffles, 4 flat baffles, the “v” baffle, then endcap/baffle. It’s about 17oz, I don’t remember exactly. If I were to do it again, I’d decrease the spacing throughout 20% and see if it effected the suppression much. -it’s as quiet to quieter than a paladin 300 hd to the ears if everyone I’ve shot it with. I’ve put thousands of rounds through it, though mostly 300blk supers and subs. |
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Huh, the pic didn’t upload….Attached File Oh, it’s all interference fit with the end caps screwed in |
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If you are turning your own cones the “Dino style” with a step on the minor back face of the cone will let you Chuck-up the cone exterior for boring the inside contours of the baffle. Boring Integral spacers are nice for inserting the baffles into the tube without the annoyance of them cocking or tipping and getting hung up especially if you turn a mating / nesting step on the cone’s shoulder. Example of this cone style pictured here: https://www.reddit.com/r/Form1/comments/1b2dz8f/dino_precision_iykyk/?sort=old |
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Originally Posted By KalmanPhilter: If you are turning your own cones the “Dino style” with a step on the minor back face of the cone will let you Chuck-up the cone exterior for boring the inside contours of the baffle. You can profile that entire baffle in 1 operation. Second opp for clip. No need to use that feature for work-holding. 
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Originally Posted By User55645: You can profile that entire baffle in 1 operation. Second opp for clip. No need to use that feature for work-holding. https://i.ibb.co/jhfTtY5/20150902-192107-zps1nmqhz8g.jpg Yeah that’s true. And with a built in spacer one doesn’t need to chuck on the step of the cone. It’s still a very good cone profile. Otter Creek & Liberty Precision use variations. Turning the face of the cone first and parting from the base / integral spacer end might give better tool clearance / access depending on angles. Your method makes parting less laborious though. Lots of ways to skin the chips. |
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Originally Posted By Nexttime: This is the inner core for my .30.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bD7HkFp2dyUWill be using a metal outer core as the docs suggest. I posted the timelapse video of it printing here:
That looks sweet! -How long do nylon-cf cores last? |
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Originally Posted By GUN2: That looks sweet! -How long do nylon-cf cores last? FA, few hundred, General plinking round counts, thousand rounds and still going. Some people seem to look at these form 1 cans and say something like "we I can't fire full auto for an hour so it must be shit and unworthy". In my opinion those people are very short sighted and remind me of the ones who hang around gun stores telling people buying a red dot that iron sights will never be replaced. Kind of hard to beat the cost of about $15 per form 1 suppressor. The idea is that you submit your form 1 a few times as a batch, but only make one at first. There is NO time limit to make the others. You use any can until it fails, so use that one until it fails at the range. Then reach for your paperwork, find the next form 1 you had approved and print that. Take it to your next range trip. This is the secret sauce to happiness. 
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Joined:
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GA, USA
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Yes I built 1 for subs years, it works great for sub 300 blk. It has 10 or 11 baffles, too many for supers port pop gets loud. It works well on 5.56 and does not have too much port pop, it also great on my 6.5 CM bolt gun. I am waiting on a form 1 right now for another 30 cal can, formula you have...., will be similar to a 5.56 one I did. |
"I am gonna laugh my ass off looking out the air vent of the box car watching some of you shot in the head in a ditch when you finally realize it's time to resist." stolen from RR_broccoli
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Originally Posted By Nexttime: FA, few hundred, General plinking round counts, thousand rounds and still going. Some people seem to look at these form 1 cans and say something like "we I can't fire full auto for an hour so it must be shit and unworthy". In my opinion those people are very short sighted and remind me of the ones who hang around gun stores telling people buying a red dot that iron sights will never be replaced. Kind of hard to beat the cost of about $15 per form 1 suppressor. The idea is that you submit your form 1 a few times as a batch, but only make one at first. There is NO time limit to make the others. You use any can until it fails, so use that one until it fails at the range. Then reach for your paperwork, find the next form 1 you had approved and print that. Take it to your next range trip. This is the secret sauce to happiness. https://i.ibb.co/8DtHSWZ8/image.png Wow, that’s really impressive! -Is that with subs or supers? -what printer are you using and did you make your own file or download one? -Thanks! |
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Originally Posted By Nexttime: I've been 3d printing for about 10 years and it is my opinion that PA6-CF is an amazing filament for the $. Pro tip, you can use PA6-CF in an Bambu AMS, it works fine as long as it is bone dry. PA6-CF is great, but PPA-CF can be had for $56/kg and is an even stronger and more heat resistant option, if your printer nozzle can do 300C and your bed 80C. |
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Originally Posted By chevrofreak: PA6-CF is great, but PPA-CF can be had for $56/kg and is an even stronger and more heat resistant option, if your printer nozzle can do 300C and your bed 80C. Originally Posted By chevrofreak: Originally Posted By Nexttime: I've been 3d printing for about 10 years and it is my opinion that PA6-CF is an amazing filament for the $. Pro tip, you can use PA6-CF in an Bambu AMS, it works fine as long as it is bone dry. PA6-CF is great, but PPA-CF can be had for $56/kg and is an even stronger and more heat resistant option, if your printer nozzle can do 300C and your bed 80C. I am going to try some PAHT-CF $35 or so a roll off amazon. |
1Andy2: it's just a question of if we decide to stop throwing coal in the furnace and lean on the brakes or if we're going to blow the boiler up getting to Full Retard'sville.
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Originally Posted By BURN: I am going to try some PAHT-CF $35 or so a roll off amazon. Depending on who it is from, PAHT can mean different things. Some companies use PA12, some use PPA. Also, keep in mind spool weight. Some are only 500g spools instead of a kilogram. If you are using what I saw on Amazon, that actually makes it $70/kg. If you want to try some PPA-CF, give Siraya Tech a try. I love it so much that I just got two 2.5kg spools of it so I don't have to go out to my workshop to change spools as often. |
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This is from the FTN.5 rifle docs: Note on filament selection: The default material here is PA6CF The mounting method is specifically designed for PA6CF. The body of the suppressor can survive in PLA+, but only for a limited amount of time. Nowadays the barrier to entry for more advanced filaments is much lower. People can start printing PA6-CF for much cheaper than before. PPA-CF is more temperature resistant than PA6CF, but in our testing, the Siryatech PPA-CF seems to suffer in terms of impact resistance, and layer adhesion. There also seems to be some more creep than PA6CF (the insert got stretched out and the Breek became loose in one instance). This is based on pretty limited data, so our confidence in this conclusion is low. If you want to try PPA-CF, I still recommend the Insert be in PA6CF, because that was where the creep was reported. PET-CF is mediocre for this application, and if you can print PET-CF, then you can print PA6-CF. Absolutely no PLA-CF, PETG, PETG-CF, ASA, ASA-CF We find PA6-GF, PA12-CF, and PA612CF to all perform similarly to PA6CF, with PA6-GF being perhaps a bit more brittle. Just an FYI |
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Originally Posted By chevrofreak: Depending on who it is from, PAHT can mean different things. Some companies use PA12, some use PPA. Also, keep in mind spool weight. Some are only 500g spools instead of a kilogram. If you are using what I saw on Amazon, that actually makes it $70/kg. If you want to try some PPA-CF, give Siraya Tech a try. I love it so much that I just got two 2.5kg spools of it so I don't have to go out to my workshop to change spools as often. Originally Posted By chevrofreak: Originally Posted By BURN: I am going to try some PAHT-CF $35 or so a roll off amazon. Depending on who it is from, PAHT can mean different things. Some companies use PA12, some use PPA. Also, keep in mind spool weight. Some are only 500g spools instead of a kilogram. If you are using what I saw on Amazon, that actually makes it $70/kg. If you want to try some PPA-CF, give Siraya Tech a try. I love it so much that I just got two 2.5kg spools of it so I don't have to go out to my workshop to change spools as often. its a PA-12 based one from Elegoo or how ever its spelled. 
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1Andy2: it's just a question of if we decide to stop throwing coal in the furnace and lean on the brakes or if we're going to blow the boiler up getting to Full Retard'sville.
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Latest from the FTN author on filaments. https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/forum.guncadindex.com/175240 "PPA-CF is weaker than PA-CF. There is a bit of nuance here, and our testing was printed at 300, not 320 so Confuzled has informed me that we are leaving some performance on the table. However, for something like the Shell of the FTN.5 Rifle Flow, I do NOT recommend PPA-CF. I recommend PA6CF because that is what tested better." I would be interesting in using PPA-CF if it works ok, as it does have better heat range. If anyone uses PPA-CF, please post your results, I'm sticking with PA6-CF for now. |
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Originally Posted By Nexttime: Latest from the FTN author on filaments. https://forum.guncadindex.com/post/forum.guncadindex.com/175240 "PPA-CF is weaker than PA-CF. There is a bit of nuance here, and our testing was printed at 300, not 320 so Confuzled has informed me that we are leaving some performance on the table. However, for something like the Shell of the FTN.5 Rifle Flow, I do NOT recommend PPA-CF. I recommend PA6CF because that is what tested better." I would be interesting in using PPA-CF if it works ok, as it does have better heat range. If anyone uses PPA-CF, please post your results, I'm sticking with PA6-CF for now. Their results are interesting, because My Tech Fun on YouTube has tested several PPA-CF's and found it to be the strongest material he ever tested. The layer adhesion is phenomenal. |
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Originally Posted By chevrofreak: Their results are interesting, because My Tech Fun on YouTube has tested several PPA-CF's and found it to be the strongest material he ever tested. The layer adhesion is phenomenal. I know the channel, I like him, seems like a good person. But I must have missed that video, link to youtube video where My Tech Fun fires bullets thru his prints?
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Originally Posted By Nexttime: I know the channel, I like him, seems like a good person. But I must have missed that video, link to youtube video where My Tech Fun fires bullets thru his prints? I have a PPA-CF modified FTN.4 "kneelsun" that I changed to be direct thread and round, but I am going to test it on a .308 soon to see if it works. I will likely film it. It has no external tube, so if it survives, that is a testament to the filament. |
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