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Posted: 11/22/2009 2:19:56 PM EDT
[Last Edit: sgtlmj][Edited]
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Edit: I made this post years ago before Photobucket dumped everyone and all my photos were lost. kfeltenberger was forward-thinking enough to take screenshots of my original post and he has linked it for everyone here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/quv0zpdkuhrcz0o/Steyr%20AUG%20A3%20Step-by-Step.pdf?dl=0 |
Instructor: Sniper, Patrol Rifle, Handgun, Shotgun - Armorer: Glock, Colt AR15/M16
| Excellent illustrations. My gas adjuster was just too tight for me to use my finger..ouch. I removed the barrel group, grabbed a Bic pen and rested the end of in on the adjuster wings, wrapped my four left hand fingers around the end of the barrel's end and put my left thumb on the end of the pen and pushed hard, on the same axis as the adjuster wing is oriented and she finally complied and moved downward to allow rotation of the adjuster. New gun, Tight parts. Great post. |
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After struggling through my first take down of the E-4 with the factory manual, I can say that this post is a great help and makes the take down very clear. I didn't lock the charging handle back and learned that the hammer pack won't come out unless the hammer is locked back. My rifle is so tight that standing it vertical on a desk and pulling pressure down in line on the receiver makes pushing the take down pin through the stock a little easier.
sgtlmg, thanks for the great contribution. please follow when you can on your "I'll work on cleaning, lube, and re-assembly pics at some point and/or do a video". It would be great to see the points that you lubricate with the photos you have already taken. I know how to lube an AR but I'm only guesing with the E-4. The manual doesn't give good instructions. Thanks for the help your post gives a new bullpup shooter. |
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Originally Posted By DWood:
After struggling through my first take down of the E-4 with the factory manual, I can say that this post is a great help and makes the take down very clear. I didn't lock the charging handle back and learned that the hammer pack won't come out unless the hammer is locked back. My rifle is so tight that standing it vertical on a desk and pulling pressure down in line on the receiver makes pushing the take down pin through the stock a little easier. sgtlmg, thanks for the great contribution. please follow when you can on your "I'll work on cleaning, lube, and re-assembly pics at some point and/or do a video". It would be great to see the points that you lubricate with the photos you have already taken. I know how to lube an AR but I'm only guesing with the E-4. The manual doesn't give good instructions. Thanks for the help your post gives a new bullpup shooter. In a nutshell, put a couple drops on the carrier guide rods, and a couple drops on the top of the bolt at the cam pin. The AUG requires very little lube. |
Instructor: Sniper, Patrol Rifle, Handgun, Shotgun - Armorer: Glock, Colt AR15/M16
| OK that helps with the general idea. AR shooters are well aware of the need to lube the bolt frequently during long shooting sessions like a carbine class. The AUG bolt is not very accessible through the ejection port, but I'm guessing it's not as big an issue due to the gas system instead of DI. Do you ever find a need to lube the bolt when shooting a lot? Seems like you could get a little oil on the front third of the bolt visible while pulling back on the charging handle. |
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Originally Posted By DWood:
OK that helps with the general idea. AR shooters are well aware of the need to lube the bolt frequently during long shooting sessions like a carbine class. The AUG bolt is not very accessible through the ejection port, but I'm guessing it's not as big an issue due to the gas system instead of DI. Do you ever find a need to lube the bolt when shooting a lot? Seems like you could get a little oil on the front third of the bolt visible while pulling back on the charging handle. As you pointed out the AUG is not DI like the AR. The system doesn't blast its internals with hot gasses and carbon like the AR. AR shooters are using all kinds of super-lubes like synthetic high friction motor oil due to the engine-like atmosphere in the bolt carrier. They have to have something that can take the punishment of getting gunked up and having the lube get blasted out. The AUG just needs a light lubricant to keep the action slippery and prevent wear. It isn't necessary to re-apply during a long range session, simply because the lube isn't getting scorched by hot gases. Lube the parts after cleaning and forget about it until the next cleaning. I've run through a couple 40 rd mags as fast as I could, then popped the action out of the stock and held onto the bolt carrier with my bare hand. Try that with a DI AR. |
Instructor: Sniper, Patrol Rifle, Handgun, Shotgun - Armorer: Glock, Colt AR15/M16
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OK, I figured out how to change the gas port settings (use a cartridge!), but for the life of me I cannot remove the barrel from my STG-556.
I've got the bolt locked back, but I cannot "press down on the barrel lock button", it's seemingly unable to be moved. I've even used the end of a sharpie pen to try to apply as much downward force as possible, but no luck. What's the trick here? |
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Originally Posted By stfram:
OK, I figured out how to change the gas port settings (use a cartridge!), but for the life of me I cannot remove the barrel from my STG-556. I've got the bolt locked back, but I cannot "press down on the barrel lock button", it's seemingly unable to be moved. I've even used the end of a sharpie pen to try to apply as much downward force as possible, but no luck. What's the trick here? Down is relative. You don't press it into the receiver, you are pushing it down towards the floor if you are holding the rifle parallel to the ground. Look closely at the button and you'll see that it's in a little groove. Slide it along the groove. |
Instructor: Sniper, Patrol Rifle, Handgun, Shotgun - Armorer: Glock, Colt AR15/M16
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Originally Posted By sgtlmj:
Down is relative. You don't press it into the receiver, you are pushing it down towards the floor if you are holding the rifle parallel to the ground. Look closely at the button and you'll see that it's in a little groove. Slide it along the groove. Gotcha! I'll try this as soon as I get home and have the rifle in hand. 
Edit: Came right off. 
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Originally Posted By Cawdor:
sgtlmj, What are you using behind the ejection port to protect the stock? http://www.sgtlmj.com/AUG/AUG_TAKEDOWN_02.jpg Commercial stair-nose tape (uber-strong skateboard tape). I'm about to take it off though. I put it on to protect the stock IF for some reason I didn't warm up to it and wanted to sell it off right away. I'm in love now, so it's time to let her get some character. |
Instructor: Sniper, Patrol Rifle, Handgun, Shotgun - Armorer: Glock, Colt AR15/M16
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Very helpful photos for take down. Much appreciated sgtlmj!
One quick question, on the AUG's inside the chamber where the gas piston resides, is that interior chrome plated as well as the gas piston assembly? When I dissasembled my piston, I had a bit of carbon to clean up, but wasn't sure how much I need to clean the chamber, mine is very black inside. |
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Originally Posted By AlmightyTallest:
Very helpful photos for take down. Much appreciated sgtlmj! One quick question, on the AUG's inside the chamber where the gas piston resides, is that interior chrome plated as well as the gas piston assembly? When I dissasembled my piston, I had a bit of carbon to clean up, but wasn't sure how much I need to clean the chamber, mine is very black inside. I don't think it is, but it's a great idea. TPD was nickel plating the inside of their gas chambers at one point. It's not that hard to clean it though. Just use a .45ACP brush soaked in solvent and give it a good scrubbing. I personally use Wipe-Out foaming bore cleaner. I fill the bbl and gas chamber and let it set for a few hours. Carbon wipes out just as advertised. 
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Instructor: Sniper, Patrol Rifle, Handgun, Shotgun - Armorer: Glock, Colt AR15/M16
"Dude, just shoot your rifle already!"
"Dude, just shoot your rifle already!"
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Originally Posted By Ras_Thavas:
Thanks a bunch for this. I just got my STG-556 today and I don't think I would have gotten it apart without this thread. The instruction manual is  compared to this thread.I'm fairly competent with firearms, but the Rat Worx videos were a big help. The rifle I just picked up was freaking tight as a drum. I thought I was doing something wrong during disassembly until I watched the vids. The flash hider video is also good stuff.....now just to be patient and wait until my Rat Worx thread adapter gets here! |
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Originally Posted By Sawgunner101:
Wow, cool stuff! I've always loved the AUG, but I can't get one here in the PRK. You can get a USR. |
I'll save my thoughts on the people who can spend any amount of dollars on a rifle but can't devote 20 minutes to getting their body in shape for another thread. -skinnysarge79
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Originally Posted By kfeltenberger: In the event the new thread isn't sticky'd and ages out, here's the link: https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/AUG-Step-by-Step-Takedown-and-Gas-Settings-v2-0/43-533840/ New thread has been archived now. |
A winner never quits, and a quitter never wins.
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Since it appears this thread will remain, here is the link to the document on step-by-step take down. Kurt AUG Step-By-Step Takedown PDF |
Kurt
http://www.bsg94.org
http://www.bsg94.org
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