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Posted: 7/22/2025 8:39:51 AM EDT
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Form 1 never really interested me much since i still had to pay $200 and all that. But since that will end in Jan it has made me consider it. I have been thinking about 3d printed cans on a home 3d printer. I know 100% nothing about jome 3d printers. I have no interest in doing rifle cans. I will just stick with steel or Ti and high presision manufacturing for that. Even 9mm and 45 cans have moderately high pressure in my uneducated opinion. Printing a true 22 can for me isnt that intersting to me becouse to cheap i can buy a top quality manufactured can (and i all ready have a bunch). But then i thought about some small niche cans for 25ACP or 32ACP. I would think you could supress 25acp with basicly a 25 bore 22lr design can. Choices of commercially available 25acp cans are very limited. So it might be a fun project once the tax is $0. I have a few Beretta Jetfires sitting around in 25 acp ànd a boatload of ammo. Also i would almost be ok with making this a one piece can and not even needing it to be disassembled. Round count for me would never be as high as a 22lr can. And if i dont have to pay $200 tax stamp for it who cares. Is a single peice can easier to print? Could i use a basic 22lr design and just enlarge the bore from .22 to .25 for 25 ACP? I would imaging vhamber pressure should be similar but i could look this up and verify it. Are people using metal inserts for the threads in 3d printed rimfire cans? What would be a basic 3d printer i would need to print a basic design? Like i said, i dont know anything about 3d printers. I might deside its not worth the endeavor. But i might also enjoy owning a 3rd printer for my other auto and moto projects. |
| In hindsight maybe i have this all wrong. Maybe i should just find a traditional 22 cal cheap aluminum form 1 kit and over drill the baffels for 25 cal. After the $0 tax i might be able to do the project super cheap. It would just be a toy for the little Berettas. |
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An alluminum tube and printed inserts would work well, and it's pretty cheap to build. We've been prototyping 3d printed suppressors for 15+ years now, and a full printed can does suppress, but it's accuracy out to 50yds gets pretty bad. The filament flexes too much. There are ways to make these as rigid as metal cans, but it's a complex process. Also printed cans do not collect as much debris as a metal can. It just doesn't seem to adhere to the baffles as much so being able to take it apart for cleaning hasnt been a necessity. For a simple cheap <$25 can, it's gonna be really hard to beat an alluminum tube and printed cores. Using that method you can remove the insert and clean it, then reassemble. |
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3D printed suppressors work exceptionally well on 22LR. Even simple PLA works great as long as there’s enough distance to the blast baffle. But it will turn in to a sad banana if you leave it inside a car. ABS-GF would be the lowest I’d do for a fully printed tube or baffles inside an aluminum tube. Don’t try to print 1/2-28 threads. Get a $8 eBay oil filter adapter, and design your can with 13/16-16 or 11/16-16 threads. They’ll be MUCH stronger. Also, printing vertically is the way to go, no supports, and design your internals with that in mind. Simple cones work great like I said earlier, so do K baffles. As far as scaling up to 25 acp - I’ve scaled up to 32 acp. Don’t overthink it, just go for it. 25 acp is less spicy than 22LR |
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A few designs out there incorporate a metal part permanently attached to the 3d printed section. I have a CNC machine on the way and was thinking about trying this approach with a form 1 and direct thread mount. I have another design with a nielsen type spring in it.  f1threadadaptor another possible way:  f1 threaded adaptor v3 Any thoughts? |
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Originally Posted By KELBEAST: Don’t overthink it, eBay sells them for cheaper than you can buy the raw aluminum. https://i.ibb.co/v631Xc1w/IMG-4285.jpg I'm buying this: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/makera-inc/makera-z1-entry-level-cnc-pro-level-power     So... Yeah, I'm gonna make my own for my form 1's because I will be able to make it the way I want it.  I get to the pick the metal and the finish I use for it. Can switch from steel to aluminum or even titanium. Why? Because it's 2025 and I want a god damn desktop CNC machine that can handle metal and has a real 4th axis. |
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Originally Posted By NAM: I have an Ecco Cheetah, which is a .32 can. But it works great for .25acp. But I'll definitely be considering 3d printing once the $200 goes away. Id have to imagine a .22 sized can could easily be made to work with .25. All you have to do is literally resize/scale up or down in CAD and have CAD make the thread to what you need for that guns mount. Verify entrance and exit diameter is in spec for new caliber and it's done. Super easy. |
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What about for the outer tube, would something this work for a build? 3d printed baffles? Attached File |
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Originally Posted By LoDie: What about for the outer tube, would something this work for a build? 3d printed baffles? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/387582/IMG_5442_jpeg-3702625.JPG If you can't, then go with one of the established printed baffle based designs and source the tube and ends that the design suggests. |
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Attached File finished this one and getting my second one with aluminum body and end caps and stainless blast baffle with 7 of these k cup and cup style hybrid baffles Attached File Attached File Attached File still need to thread the tube and make the end caps |
1Andy2: it's just a question of if we decide to stop throwing coal in the furnace and lean on the brakes or if we're going to blow the boiler up getting to Full Retard'sville.
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