Armory Sponsor
Posted: 8/26/2026 10:44:28 PM EDT
|
Just a heads up with those that have a 1919a4. Saw some videos of a 1919a4 with a FRT today. They have several "reels" of it on FB. https://www.facebook.com/reel/1401713538770735 |
|
Originally Posted By RandyBroshankle: Yup. It's legit and costly. I have his number and will be asking soon for mine. Did some searching on the 1919 forums and seems it modifies the trigger frame and also will not allow OOB issues. It can also be changed back to semi-auto in less than two minutes. He also posted a few other videos there. I too am seriously thinking about it but $1k is a bit steep plus shipping a 48lb weapon twice. |
|
Originally Posted By svt40: Looks like Appalachian Arms is also about to release an M1919 FRT. Not on their website yet but on their FB page showing them running an A6 and an A4 FRT style. |
https://www.ArizonaShooting.org
|
Originally Posted By jtb33: Nice! Wonder what that one will cost and if it requires sending in the firearm... https://apparmsco.com/product/browning-frt/ |
|
Nice find on the video. Got me wondering as my trigger frame was modified where the trigger pivots for the KMP trigger. His trigger frame looked unmodified in the pivot area. |
|
Originally Posted By akethan: What are they referring to about a non trimmed t post? I think some 1919 builds modified the T-shaped projection at the back of the Barrel Extension. Example image on this page, post 46 |
|
Originally Posted By NoMoAMMO: a quick glance at mine with the KMP looks unmodified Pulled mine out and my trigger frame has been modified for the KMP trigger. Seems the early ones were all narrow triggers and the frame had to be welder up to fit the smaller triggers. I built mine around 2005. Had all the internals sent out for modification to KMP standards. Now I am thinking do I modify the trigger frame back to wide trigger standard or get a new frame and try to find someone to do the semi machining to it. |
|
Originally Posted By svt40: Pulled mine out and my trigger frame has been modified for the KMP trigger. Seems the early ones were all narrow triggers and the frame had to be welder up to fit the smaller triggers. I built mine around 2005. Had all the internals sent out for modification to KMP standards. Now I am thinking do I modify the trigger frame back to wide trigger standard or get a new frame and try to find someone to do the semi machining to it. Id just get a new frame |
| The Appalachian Arms FRT is now sold out. I called the owner and he indicated they had made several hundred. He developed and tested the design about 9 months ago, and proceeded to contract the manufacturing to a machine shop. The shop was evidently backed up on work. He chose to remain quiet about the release until he had them manufactured and packaged for shipment. I think that was a smart move. |
|
I've got one on the way. I also had to purchase a new lock frame and barrel extension as mine had the angled T bar. Still deciding if I want to populate both the new parts or swap the small parts from the old to the new. Just gotta send the stuff out to get the semi-auto mods done. |
|
Originally Posted By svt40: I've got one on the way. I also had to purchase a new lock frame and barrel extension as mine had the angled T bar. Still deciding if I want to populate both the new parts or swap the small parts from the old to the new. Just gotta send the stuff out to get the semi-auto mods done. I have one the way as well. Doesn't look like I'll have to do much more than swap parts out but we'll see. |
Where There Are Sheep, Wolves Will Always Thrive
Joined:
Jan 2008
Posts:
10288
EE: 100% (38)
VA, USA
|
Originally Posted By NoMoAMMO: Got mine in today but its gonna need some fitting the disconnector doesnt slide in the trigger like in the video. clearances are too tight Check your sear fit with the bolt too. Some guys on the 1919 forum are saying the sear sits proud and/or loose. |
|
Sear is fine on mine. I need to get a new screw setup and mod the trigger for my return spring setup.Attached File |
|
Originally Posted By NoMoAMMO: All the internal stuff was KMP IIRC but.its been so long now I could be wrong If it's KMP then it must be an older design. They are supposed to have gone through some changes over the years. I am not an expert though. Just noticing that your disconnector design and trigger return springs are different than what's currently sold. FWIW my 1919 trigger looks like yours, except crudely machined. Mine was made by a local machinist who was probably working to copy something he saw online. I never figured out where he got his plans. It's so crude that I have debated replacing it with KMP parts. The guys on 1919A4 posted two reviews. One that is just mocking the sear fit (not particularly useful), and then one that actually does some testing. It seems the design is effective but execution might need some work. My own thoughts: The sear fitting loosely is concerning. If there's a lot of slop in the sear groove, it's possible for the sear to drop prematurely while the cocking lever is being actuated on the bolt's forward travel. It might lead to an out-of-battery mishap (though it depends on whether the cartridge has fully dropped into place before the lever is swung). Using the rear of the T projection is pretty clever! I don't think it could get any simpler. However, I suspect it will come with some wear. The wear should cause timing to decrease with age, as the ramping effect between trigger and T post will happen later in the bolt's travel. An upgraded T post with wear surface can help but it would focus wear on the ramped segment of the the trigger. The discussions about sear being soft are also concerning. I don't trust the "experts" at 1919A4, but if they are correct, I would expect the sear engagement surface will wear out and eventually stop working. The owner's description of "quality stainless" doesn't help. He needs to state what it is. It could be 440C or hardened 17-4, in which case it might last a long time. Or it could be 304 annealed, which would be unfortunate. Lastly, comments on cyclic rate are dumb. The 1919 design depends on barrel mass, expelled gas volume, bolt buffer washers, and many sliding surfaces. I would not expect a bunch of worn milsurp/demil builds to have the same rate. Latest review:  Appalachian Arms 1919A4 FRT Review And a really good primer on the 1919 theory of operation. It illustrates the cartridge dropping down during bolt cycling.  .300 Browning Light Machine Gun mechanism |
| Agreed. My spade has a bar at the bottom that hooks into the trigger and pulls it upwards when you press with your thumbs on the buttons. I don't see why it wouldn't work, but it would probably be less comfortable to shoot than pulling the trigger with your finger because it would be pushing back and forth against your thumbs. |
https://www.ArizonaShooting.org
Armory Sponsor