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Quoted: Those of you that have time behind the RH25, what are your thoughts so far? I think its a great multi-use thermal, good image quality between 1-4 power in front of the nx8, handheld scanner, all in a rugged package which was my biggest complain about the MH25. So did changing your mount from 1.7 to 1.5 make a difference in view through the clip on? |
| Has anyone put round on paper with the MH25 in clip-on mode yet? I checked zero for the first time today and wasn't anywhere close to being on paper even up to 25 yards. I dont know if I am missing a step in "collimating" but going off the manual: long press POWER & MENU buttons gives me a blank screen to adjust but no reticle to line up with my day scope. I spoke with another member who had a similar experience. |
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Quoted: Has anyone put round on paper with the MH25 in clip-on mode yet? I checked zero for the first time today and wasn't anywhere close to being on paper even up to 25 yards. I dont know if I am missing a step in "collimating" but going off the manual: long press POWER & MENU buttons gives me a blank screen to adjust but no reticle to line up with my day scope. I spoke with another member who had a similar experience. No, because the MH25 is not a clip-on. I have with the RH25 and it didn’t require any zeroing/adjusting to maintain POA/POI. |
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Quoted: No, because the MH25 is not a clip-on. I have with the RH25 and it didn’t require any zeroing/adjusting to maintain POA/POI. Sorry for the mistype, I ment RH25. I zeroed my day optic and attached the RH25 to re-check zero and didn't even hit paper. Moved closer from 100 yards to 50 then to 25ish with the same result. Speaking with another member who had similar results, is it possible there is a issue with the unit itself? |
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Quoted: Sorry for the mistype, I ment RH25. I zeroed my day optic and attached the RH25 to re-check zero and didn't even hit paper. Moved closer from 100 yards to 50 then to 25ish with the same result. Speaking with another member who had similar results, is it possible there is a issue with the unit itself? If you’ve got it lined up right in front of your scope, must be. That’s definitely not been my experience using a loaner. |
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read the manual. follow the manual There are more than a couple factors that can effect this. Things like mechanical alignment of parts on your firearm, mount assembly issues and tolerance stacking. If your optic has digital colimation capability consult the manual and use it first before taking to heart an internet opinion that something is wrong with your optic. |
| Even just handholding it in front of my 1-10 and wiggling it around, the reticle stayed pointed at the target quite well, so I doubt it’s something like the mount being screwed on wrong or something. Tough to diagnose over text here, but the US dealers seem pretty supportive so I’d just reach out to whoever sold it to you for assistance. Being off the paper at 25 definitely doesn’t match my experience though. |
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Quoted: read the manual. follow the manual There are more than a couple factors that can effect this. Things like mechanical alignment of parts on your firearm, mount assembly issues and tolerance stacking. If your optic has digital colimation capability consult the manual and use it first before taking to heart an internet opinion that something is wrong with your optic. Is this not a tech forum? Where technical questions can be asked for assistance with NVD? The problem is the manual is very vague and unless I am missing something the only colimation offered is shifting the screen position. No digital reticle to align with the day optic. I private messaged another member who is having the same issue so I decided to make a post asking for help. |
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Quoted: Even just handholding it in front of my 1-10 and wiggling it around, the reticle stayed pointed at the target quite well, so I doubt it’s something like the mount being screwed on wrong or something. Tough to diagnose over text here, but the US dealers seem pretty supportive so I’d just reach out to whoever sold it to you for assistance. Being off the paper at 25 definitely doesn’t match my experience though. I will give them a call Monday, just wanted to make sure there wasn't a step I was overlooking. |
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Update: I placed the rifle in my shop vice and focused across the shop, adjusted the thermal screen to line up on the same point as the day scope (it was way off). Now check this out, while focusing the thermal my reticle starts walking, down & left when turning clockwise, up and right while turning counter clockwise.... tell me thats not normal? https://streamable.com/ekw80b |
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Quoted: Update: I placed the rifle in my shop vice and focused across the shop, adjusted the thermal screen to line up on the same point as the day scope (it was way off). Now check this out, while focusing the thermal my reticle starts walking, down & left when turning clockwise, up and right while turning counter clockwise.... tell me thats not normal? https://streamable.com/ekw80b |
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Quoted: Hopefully just a case of bad quality control. Struggling with asking this question in the open but if there is a certain Lot Number or Batch Control SKU I'd personally like to know which vendor were involved wish said RH25 sales. I personally know 4 or 5 currently stocking these units and would genuinely like to know who yoo's got yours from Those comfortable with sharing that can either post in the open or PM me for advice. Currently have one pending full payment but the rifle mountability is what sold me on this unit. However, this is the first place I've read such issues and actually the forum I trust most as well. I'm sure there's more than just me puzzled by all that's said? |
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Quoted: Update: I placed the rifle in my shop vice and focused across the shop, adjusted the thermal screen to line up on the same point as the day scope (it was way off). Now check this out, while focusing the thermal my reticle starts walking, down & left when turning clockwise, up and right while turning counter clockwise.... tell me thats not normal? https://streamable.com/ekw80b Thanks for the video - definitely looks like something’s up with your unit in particular. Just confirmed that other units don’t behave that way. If you dial the ocular (rear) focus from the marked “zero” position, it will shift the impacts. Focusing the objective should not shift it around a bunch like you’re seeing. Reaching out to your vendor seems like a good course of action. |
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If this was addressed earlier - or somewhere else - forgive the dupe. It appears that when Bridge Mounting a PVS14 and the RH25, you cannot run the 14 on the right eye or the RH battery compartment knocks against the 14 - making it difficult to obtain proper alignment to both eyes. There is also some notes on how high it sits when coupled with an Optic & Magnifier. Guess there are some design concerns to this great thermal. Friday Night Lights - Out! Anyone experience any of the above with a Bridged Helmet setup? EDIT: I swear I read someone say that the device remembers your last setting, removing the need to go thru them all over again? The writer states: "Another minor issue I have is that this unit does not seem to keep the color palette I last used. Whenever I turn it on, it always defaults to white hot. I prefer black hot and I have to go into the options menu to change the palette. I wish there was a fourth button to change the color palette. Other than that, the iRay RH25 is an amazing device that has a lot of functionality." |
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Quoted: Thanks for the video - definitely looks like something's up with your unit in particular. Just confirmed that other units don't behave that way. If you dial the ocular (rear) focus from the marked "zero" position, it will shift the impacts. Focusing the objective should not shift it around a bunch like you're seeing. Reaching out to your vendor seems like a good course of action. Quoted: Quoted: Update: I placed the rifle in my shop vice and focused across the shop, adjusted the thermal screen to line up on the same point as the day scope (it was way off). Now check this out, while focusing the thermal my reticle starts walking, down & left when turning clockwise, up and right while turning counter clockwise.... tell me thats not normal? https://streamable.com/ekw80b Thanks for the video - definitely looks like something's up with your unit in particular. Just confirmed that other units don't behave that way. If you dial the ocular (rear) focus from the marked "zero" position, it will shift the impacts. Focusing the objective should not shift it around a bunch like you're seeing. Reaching out to your vendor seems like a good course of action. You just need to set the eyepiece to a known "collimated"/parallax free point. On the RH25 you achieve this by lining up the white dot and white triangle on the housing and eyepiece adjustment ring. On the SkeetIR-X you just twist the eyepiece adjustment ring and look through the unit until you find parallax the free point, and on the UTM-X I have seen it where you have to twist and look, or an alternate eyepiece where you can find the correct parallax free point then move a socket head screw to a particular point on the eyepiece adjustment ring for reference. Usually the manual says something to the effect of ensuring that parallax is adjusted out of the optical chain by twisting the eyepiece until there is not reticle drift. So, to resolve what you see in your RH25 video you simply rotate the eyepiece ring while viewing through the RH25 until there is no movement in the reticle off of the target. It should be when the triangle and white dot line up, but you can confirm that by adjusting your cheek weld and seeing if the reticle moves. Just twist the ring until the reticle stops moving. I hope that helps! |
| I haven't had a chance to shoot mine as a clip on but I have no noticed any issues just playing with front focus and using ACOG and leaving great adjust set. I almost always run with white hot so defaulting to color palate is not a big deal for me generally. I did try to update the firmware but not sure if I did correctly. Im sure that issue could be corrected in the future. |
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Quoted: Somebody forgot to tell my PVS-14 that it wasn't allowed to sit on the right side . . . https://i.imgur.com/nCaBCJlh.jpg https://i.imgur.com/LPrr4Nuh.jpg So its true huh? There was zero chance of fitting it on right side? Well, guess this presents a whole new learning curve since I'm one who prefers dominant eye for the 14. Do tell what bridge you have there please! |
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Quoted: It appears my point went right over your head. The -14 fits on my dominant (right) eye just fine, and that's exactly how I run it when I'm not running dual RH25s. The -14 also fits on the left eye, next to the RH25. There are no fitment issues here. My PVS-14 is from TNVC. The writer of the article is either mistaken or painting with too broad a brush. https://i.imgur.com/0savTdah.jpg Too broad a brush it is!! I'll know VERY soon myself!! Thx! |
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Quoted: If I had to make a scientific wild ass guess, I would guess that Nick Chen's interpupillary distance (IPD) is narrower than mine. It appears he extrapolated that finding universally. He has a pretty big presence on many NV Groups on Facebook. That's where I stumbled onto the article which stated that the battery compartment on the RH prevented it from mounting the PVS14 over the right eye. This is that article I'll admit I have no friggin clue WTF a MUM-14 is but if what you're all saying is true about having the ability to mount EITHER unit on the eye of your choice - I'll take your word for it. I just need to find a bridge for these two items - links to ANY of them would be great for all involved in this thread. |
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Quoted: I just need to find a bridge for these two items - links to ANY of them would be great for all involved in this thread. The KVC bridge is the very best on the market. They've been incredibly hard to come by lately. This website shows just one left in stock. |
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Quoted: The KVC bridge is the very best on the market. They've been incredibly hard to come by lately. This website shows just one left in stock. That "website" links to Youtube.... |
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Quoted: He has a pretty big presence on many NV Groups on Facebook. That's where I stumbled onto the article which stated that the battery compartment on the RH prevented it from mounting the PVS14 over the right eye. This is that article I'll admit I have no friggin clue WTF a MUM-14 is but if what you're all saying is true about having the ability to mount EITHER unit on the eye of your choice - I'll take your word for it. I just need to find a bridge for these two items - links to ANY of them would be great for all involved in this thread. The takeaway is, if you dont own one run fast and far unless you find one at a SCREAMING deal IMO. The M.U.M. is a Multi Use Monocle. In the early 2000's they started offering a Gen 3 tube in two different housings. You could get the tried and true PVS-14, or you could get a new body style which was the MUM. They are quite similar in that they both contained at-the-time top of the line tubes and both were intended to be helmet mounted. Both could also be weapons mounted or used handheld. Crucially however the PVS14 uses a screw type attachment whereas the MUM uses a picatinny rail type of attachment. You can see that here in a pic of my loadout. ![]() On the right side of my NOD on the top, you can see what looks like two squares next to each other. Thats where the units attachment point is, either to a J arm or weapon mounted rail device. Next to this you can see my bayonet J arm and then the mount. On the J arm the little dial is a spring loaded retainer, you can turn it 1/4 turn and the lock is recessed, slide it over the rail on the mum and then release the dial and the retainer drops into the cutout between the two squares on the mum. Now, when I bought mine I rolled the dice. I had my suspicions that MUMs would be the new hotness, with PVS14's phasing out and becoming the old and busted. Boy was I fucking wrong. The reason this is a pain in the ass (But not an unsolveable problem) is the PVS14 mount is pretty much the most universal mount out there. The MUM-14 mount style is way out in the weeds, so you sometimes have some additional hurdles to jump over to use a MUM14 device on standard PVS14 based hardware. You can see an adapter I bought to allow me to use a PVS14 J arm, the JDAPT. Being that nothing is easy when you have a MUM....That adapter takes a bit of filing to fit, its too small otherwise. Its actually marketed for FLIR devices, thankfully the FLIRs have a quite or exact style mount so theres enough popularity that if you do have a MUM you can find the bits and bobs to make it fully functional but if you have a choice I think the PVS-14 is a far better choice. @GunnyFitz |
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Quoted: I haven't had a chance to shoot mine as a clip on but I have no noticed any issues just playing with front focus and using ACOG and leaving great adjust set. I almost always run with white hot so defaulting to color palate is not a big deal for me generally. I did try to update the firmware but not sure if I did correctly. Im sure that issue could be corrected in the future. DISREGARD - Finally found it... |
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