Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2:

Great question. I have no response. In it stays!

https://media.tenor.com/93OUVuCIk6MAAAAM/done-and-done-spongebob.gif

Originally Posted By fiftytencee:


I’ll try giving them a call tomorrow. I’m going to take a break from this stuff for the night.

Originally Posted By fiftytencee:


Update: Sadly, they were at a loss as well.

Originally Posted By saltydecimator:
what i think we learned from this is we needa diff platform with less mass and "complication"???  just in general.   like if the silly lil taurus can be ideal, lets build something like the "wee-r15" that takes an ideal mag, with ideal size and parts options???

Originally Posted By ELittlefield:
Got it running with a 50 round drum.

Danny Boy is a big fan of FRTs.

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/590787/IMG_2851_jpeg-3690613.JPG

Originally Posted By ELittlefield:
Got it running with a 50 round drum.

Danny Boy is a big fan of FRTs.

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/590787/IMG_2851_jpeg-3690613.JPG

Originally Posted By ELittlefield:
Like others have said, your trip needs to be butted right up to the ledge on your bolt.

Originally Posted By shultz:
... Cutting tungsten carbide is a chore. The high speed dremel fiber cutting disks work, just have a hand full handy oh, don't even bother with the cheap, thin pressed cutting disks that come in a tube. Real woven fiber cutting disks.
you can also use a good quality dremel diamond cutting wheel. High speed as well, slow cutting, let the wheel do the work and keep it cool. For finishing,chamfering dremel diamond burrs work well. Again high speed and go slow cutting, keep them cool. PPE! Safety glasses and wear a good dust mask. You don't want to breath in carbide or tungsten dust...

Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2:

This was great advice. PPE was a must, not just for tungsten carbide dust, but also for the cutting wheel particulates.

I don't have a mill, so I marked the rod at a point slightly longer than the BB weights, chucked it up in a drill press and kept it spinning at about 500-600 RPM. I rigged up my vacuum so the intake was close to the chuck for sucking up as much dust as I could. I used a fiber reinforced cutting wheel in a rotary tool running at its highest setting (spec'ed at 27,500 RPM) to cut the rod while it was spinning in the drill. Even though the two tools ran in opposing directions as-oriented, it didn't matter with that kind of speed differential.

You were right about letting the wheel do the work. If I pressed too hard, I just ended up turning the wheel into dust without making much headway on the rod. I'd cut for about 15-30 seconds, check to make sure it wasn't heating up too much, dip the spinning rod in some water to cool it down, and repeat. It took about 6-10 repetitions and consumed about 1/2 to 3/4 of the wheel to get through one cut. This is what it looked like:

https://i.ibb.co/fVmsTwLp/IMG-2892.jpg

I chucked up the cut piece and switched to a diamond grit cutting wheel to push it against the end of the fresh cut to square it up and take enough off to match the length of the BB weights. I'd grind off a little from the end, measure, and keep at it until I was at the appropriate length. Then I chucked it up for a final time and used the rotary to give it about a 30 degree bevel:

https://i.ibb.co/q3CSP16f/IMG-2891.jpg

These ended up weighing almost twice as much as the similarly sized steel weights.

https://i.ibb.co/kdhGgKh/IMG-2893.jpg

These are slightly skinnier than the BB weights, so there's a bit more side-to-side play, but less than what I was worried about. I'm still waiting for the 1/4" rod, which will obviously take more time/effort to cut.

If anyone has a desire to try their own hand, DM me your address, and I can send you what's left of the rods. After cutting two weights, there's plenty left on the rod to do another two.

Originally Posted By ELittlefield:
Bore Buddy seems to have added an Atrius specific trip, which doesn't have an adjustment screw. I suppose since the Atrius has none of the slop of a Hoffman, it doesn't need any adjustment? I'm interested in this, because I've had that screw come loose two or three times. It locks up my gun, until I figure out what went wrong, and I get it tightened down again. I only use the Atrius for my 22 FRT guns now, so that trip seems ideal. I don't believe this was available even a month ago, when I bought a Super Safety trip for my pseudo retro upper. I'm now shopping for a trip for my Han Solo build.

https://borebuddy.com/product/adjustable-atrius-super-selektor-trip-kit/

[url]https://i.imgur.com/whan8uY.jpeg">https://i.imgur.com/whan8uY.jpeg">[url]https://i.imgur.com/whan8uY.jpeg

Secondarily, has anyone seen a picture of Bore Buddy's 22 magnum anti bounce system, for Bear Creek 22 magnum uppers? Or even a description of it? I can't find any information at all about it. I'm running a Kynshot hydraulic buffer with an Arizona Regulator in my 22 Magnum gun. It works really, really well, but if Bore Buddy is making a dedicated FRT buffer I'm all ears.

https://borebuddy.com/product/22-magnum-anti-bounce-system-bear-creek-bca/

Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns:
Looks like they have added a ARC fire "timing advance shim"
https://borebuddy.com/product/arc-fire-timing-advance-shim/
It says the arc-fire needs a timing adjustment to work with 22lr.
Wonder if that is why mine would not work.

Still pissed that their "certified" rave 140 and atrius does not work.
I am starting to think bore buddy is nothing but a way to separate people from their money.
You need this, this, this, this, this, this, this, this, and then maybe you might get one burst one time.
I have spent close to 1k with them trying to get this fucking thing running and have jack shit to show for it.

Originally Posted By ELittlefield:

At this point, the common denominator is your upper. It strains belief that every part you've thrown at a properly built upper fails.

Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns:
...

Still pissed that their "certified" rave 140 and atrius does not work.
I am starting to think bore buddy is nothing but a way to separate people from their money.
You need this, this, this, this, this, this, this, this, and then maybe you might get one burst one time.
I have spent close to 1k with them trying to get this fucking thing running and have jack shit to show for it.

Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2:

This is frustrating. They are changing things very quickly. I wouldn't mind so much if I knew this up front. It's incongruous with their marketing, namely, "RIMFIRE PERFECTED - Meticulously engineered upgrades, rimfire aftermarket parts, and tuning kits for the AR22 platform." That sounds like they have a lot more refinement and testing than perhaps their product changes indicate. Don't get me wrong, I'm glad someone's trying to innovate in this space, but as someone who has paid them quite a lot of money, I'd prefer not to also be a beta tester. Usually I'm the one getting paid for that work, not the other way around.

Originally Posted By jtb33:
That's kinda what to expect though, when you're on the bleeding edge with regard to this stuff.  FRT's is "bleeding edge" in the firearm world.  I'm still surprised at how many people don't even know what "FRT's" are at the range.

Originally Posted By shultz:
...

I see you're using WD40 specialist dry lube. Thats pretty good stuff as well and what I first tried for dry lube. I do think the hornady one shot clean and lube is better lube but either worked well for me and far better than any of the oils, CLP's I had been using...

Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2:


Ho-ly crap. You weren't kidding. I bought a 5 oz can just to try it. I don't know about as a lube, yet, but as far as getting fouling out of my lower, this stuff is magic. (Or, at least it works better than anything else I've been using.) I was hesitant because it's not cheap (and a lot of products targeted at gun maintenance often seem to be just very expensive packaging around very inexpensive substances), but I'm a convert. Thanks for the nudge!

Originally Posted By ELittlefield:

I'm going to give One Shot a try for cleaning and lubing. Do you shoot it in cold weather? It's very thin, so I assume it would be reasonably slick in the cold.

Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns:
Well I just sent off a message to bore buddy through their website with a mile long message outlining everything I have tried and how nothing works.

Guess we will see if they respond next week.

Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns:
They responded this afternoon with a prepaid shipping label to send my upper back to them for inspection and testing.
So hoping they find a issue.
I will update when I get it back, but it will be a while considering shipping times and then time for them to inspect/test.

Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2:
I finally got the replacement set screw (#3-56, 1/2" shank, roughly 5/8" OAL, if you're curious) for my BB SS trip installed and got out to shoot some more before the weather here turned to @#$%. This included testing with a newly acquired Black Dog 50 rd drum. Here is a continuation of my notes from my prior entry including setup details.

I'm pretty confident now about my earlier hunch that things ran better dirty. I'm running an 8" tucked upper suppressed. In my most recent session, like before, I started out with the 3 lb spring and the steel weight carrier with all steel weights. However, I (reluctantly) added back the bolt buffer that originally came with my bolt. I say reluctantly, because it reduces bolt travel a hair and because I'd heard that could frustrate reliability. This was at BB's suggestion after I asked them about my 3 lb spring walking over the rim of the recoil rod where it would get hammered by the bolt on each round (similar to when my improperly cut stock spring would reach solid height before the bolt reached full travel). In fairness, having a couple coils over the rim would also act to shorten the bolt travel a bit, so I may not have been changing things as much as I feared.

I had a few stoppages with CCI 40 gr 36CCs on my first mag, which, in this configuration, has been reliably subsonic. I immediately swapped out one of the small steel weights for a tungsten carbide one I had cut from a rod. (Hat tip to @shultz for the suggestion and guidance. I have a set of extras here on EE if anyone's interested.) The next mags ran without issue. For fun, I swapped out the other steel weight for another tungsten carbide one, and the 36CCs still ran reliably, but started going supersonic.

My conjecture is that with the low power spring with the all-steel weight setup, a fair amount of the expanding gas was not going toward pushing the round out the barrel, but was instead getting dumped into the receiver, along with a lot of particulates. It does run pretty dirty. (Another hat tip to @shutz for turning me on to Hornady One Shot gun cleaner, not to be confused with their case cleaner.) After a short while, the build-up acted as a drag on bolt reciprocation, effectively doing a similar job as the increased weight I had just introduced. Adding the second tungsten carbide weight slowed the bolt's rearward travel even more, allowing more gas to push those same rounds supersonic.

I dropped back down to one small tungsten carbide weight, one small steel weight, and two large steel weights. I was able to do a 50 rd drum dump with 36CCs without issue (except for the fact that LRBHO doesn't work with that drum, even with the BB bolt catch). I also tried dumps with Remington 33 gr Yellow Jackets (supersonic), Remington 40 gr Golden Hunter (subsonic), Remington 38 gr Ranch Hand (supersonic), CCI 40 gr 74s (subsonic by design), and even the dreaded Federal 40 gr AM22 (supersonic). The only failure I had was from a dud (I forget the specific type), which had what appeared to be a good initial strike. It wouldn't touch off, even when rotated, re-chambered, and hit with a second good strike. The rest of that dump ran fine.

When the weather warms up, I'll revisit some of the other rounds that gave me some trouble in the past, like the Aguila. I might also try to go back up to the 4 lb spring with the increased weight and see what happens. I'll report any significant findings.

@Jeeps-and-Guns , I was trying to think of a way this might help you troubleshoot your own situation. I'm not sure the dynamics translate, but if your 16" is providing similar back-pressure to my suppressed 8", then maybe there's something to be gleaned here, especially if you have 40 gr w/ standard (not hot) loads that are not reliably supersonic in semi, or if you're getting a lot of fouling in the receiver? Just thinking out loud.

Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2:
I finally got the replacement set screw (#3-56, 1/2" shank, roughly 5/8" OAL, if you're curious) for my BB SS trip installed and got out to shoot some more before the weather here turned to @#$%. This included testing with a newly acquired Black Dog 50 rd drum. Here is a continuation of my notes from my prior entry including setup details.

I'm pretty confident now about my earlier hunch that things ran better dirty. I'm running an 8" tucked upper suppressed. In my most recent session, like before, I started out with the 3 lb spring and the steel weight carrier with all steel weights. However, I (reluctantly) added back the bolt buffer that originally came with my bolt. I say reluctantly, because it reduces bolt travel a hair and because I'd heard that could frustrate reliability. This was at BB's suggestion after I asked them about my 3 lb spring walking over the rim of the recoil rod where it would get hammered by the bolt on each round (similar to when my improperly cut stock spring would reach solid height before the bolt reached full travel). In fairness, having a couple coils over the rim would also act to shorten the bolt travel a bit, so I may not have been changing things as much as I feared.

I had a few stoppages with CCI 40 gr 36CCs on my first mag, which, in this configuration, has been reliably subsonic. I immediately swapped out one of the small steel weights for a tungsten carbide one I had cut from a rod. (Hat tip to @shultz for the suggestion and guidance. I have a set of extras here on EE if anyone's interested.) The next mags ran without issue. For fun, I swapped out the other steel weight for another tungsten carbide one, and the 36CCs still ran reliably, but started going supersonic.

My conjecture is that with the low power spring with the all-steel weight setup, a fair amount of the expanding gas was not going toward pushing the round out the barrel, but was instead getting dumped into the receiver, along with a lot of particulates. It does run pretty dirty. (Another hat tip to @shutz for turning me on to Hornady One Shot gun cleaner, not to be confused with their case cleaner.) After a short while, the build-up acted as a drag on bolt reciprocation, effectively doing a similar job as the increased weight I had just introduced. Adding the second tungsten carbide weight slowed the bolt's rearward travel even more, allowing more gas to push those same rounds supersonic.

I dropped back down to one small tungsten carbide weight, one small steel weight, and two large steel weights. I was able to do a 50 rd drum dump with 36CCs without issue (except for the fact that LRBHO doesn't work with that drum, even with the BB bolt catch). I also tried dumps with Remington 33 gr Yellow Jackets (supersonic), Remington 40 gr Golden Hunter (subsonic), Remington 38 gr Ranch Hand (supersonic), CCI 40 gr 74s (subsonic by design), and even the dreaded Federal 40 gr AM22 (supersonic). The only failure I had was from a dud (I forget the specific type), which had what appeared to be a good initial strike. It wouldn't touch off, even when rotated, re-chambered, and hit with a second good strike. The rest of that dump ran fine.

When the weather warms up, I'll revisit some of the other rounds that gave me some trouble in the past, like the Aguila. I might also try to go back up to the 4 lb spring with the increased weight and see what happens. I'll report any significant findings.

@Jeeps-and-Guns , I was trying to think of a way this might help you troubleshoot your own situation. I'm not sure the dynamics translate, but if your 16" is providing similar back-pressure to my suppressed 8", then maybe there's something to be gleaned here, especially if you have 40 gr w/ standard (not hot) loads that are not reliably supersonic in semi, or if you're getting a lot of fouling in the receiver? Just thinking out loud.

Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns:
Glad to see you got yours running.
My upper is currently in route to bore buddy for inspection and testing by them.
So hopefully they find a issue and can fix it.

Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2:
Well this is new (to me at least):

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/608655/IMG_1234_jpeg-3702206.JPG

I'm wondering if this is a version of @lx2008 's issue from awhile back. I do have one small tungsten carbide weight, but the rest are steel. There's a small amount of play inside the carrier with the weights installed, but not much:

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/608655/IMG_1234_jpeg-3702207.JPG

I always wondered about the robustness of that "bridge" piece. It always seemed kind of puny to me. But, then again, it sits up against he bolt, so I just assumed that the other parts of the face of the carrier would bear most of the stresses.

Originally Posted By jtb33:
If you're having to use the tungsten weights, you should probably upgrade to the steel buffer BB has and then use lighter weights to get the same overall weight.  I'm sure the aluminum didn't like being beat on by the heavy tungsten weights.

Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2:

Assuming you were addressing that to me, and not to @shultz , that IS the steel weight carrier.

Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2:
Well this is new (to me at least):

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/608655/IMG_1234_jpeg-3702206.JPG

I'm wondering if this is a version of @lx2008 's issue from awhile back. I do have one small tungsten carbide weight, but the rest are steel. There's a small amount of play inside the carrier with the weights installed, but not much:

https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/608655/IMG_1234_jpeg-3702207.JPG

I always wondered about the robustness of that "bridge" piece. It always seemed kind of puny to me. But, then again, it sits up against he bolt, so I just assumed that the other parts of the face of the carrier would bear most of the stresses.

Originally Posted By ELittlefield:
I wonder if I can get a 22 running with 3 round burst. With the rate of fire, I think one could print 3 rounds very, very close to each other at modest distance.

https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/It-s-happening-Everybody-stay-calm-STAY-F-ING-CALM-The-three-round-burst-is-here-/130-792693/

Originally Posted By lx2008:


just about the same! the GMR anti-bounce is a 3d printed part. works fantastic if you epoxy the tung. weights in.
my first one blew out after a few rds. called GMR...they said epoxy them in and your gtg. they had calls from others too
about letting them rattle.

Originally Posted By shultz:
@Lx2008,

Did your BB weight housing break like lugs or did it actually split in half?

I had the same experience with the GMR 3D weight housing, puked the rods in like the first 10-15 shots. So far, my BB housing is holding together.