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Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? (Page 10 of 11)
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Originally Posted By heavyduty: I might go this route. Thanks for documenting your experience! Originally Posted By heavyduty: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I've had the best luck with the Atrius, paired with a Rave 140 trigger. Note that it should be a recent production Rave 140, and I don't know the date cutoff, as detailed in post 2 of this thread: https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/The-Atrius-and-Rise-Armament-Rave-140-combination-reference-thread/130-793052/ I might go this route. Thanks for documenting your experience! In my observation, the CornFire MARC is an at-least-as-good stand-in for the Atrius in this setup, just in case one of those is more accessible to you. |
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Originally Posted By dredeagle: K ... so ... it's been a bit. I'm posting to announce ... 'nuff success to share my recipe. Rifle: 16" dedicated with KVP Linear Comp; cmmg dedicated conversion; KNS AR15 Buffer Tube to Pic Rail Adapter; M&P 15-22 Mags; Modified* Better Mag Adapter; Bore Buddy Aluminum Adjustable Bolt Weight with 4x Steel weights; Bore Buddy Atrius Trip Sled; Atrius Super Selektor; Rave 140. *Better Mag Adapter clearanced where the Atrius Trip Sled interfered. Been at this maybe 8 months. Turns out I made a wrong turn early on which I finally undid yesterday. Early reports describe successes with the increasingly elusive tungsten sled weights. Had it in my head to "go heavy," so I fretted with steel sled/steel weight failures. I do own the lead weights, but thankfully someone reported their issues before I stuck'm in my weight sled. Well, last week, some saintly soul reported running with the aluminum weight sled. That was the course correction my thick skull required. Don't read much about folks running the 15-22 mags with the BMA. But additional thanks to the saintly souls that pointed out the points of interference with the trip sled. I have other mags but, frankly dislike the idea of stopping a moving bolt with a plastic follower. Yes, I got working LRBHO. I celebrated this small success by ordering a 9" barrel from RTB. With the folding stock attached to the KNS, 16" looks off. And, my Free Form 1 will maybe get approved eventually. I am coming to the conclusion that there's no general rule of thumb for weights and recoil springs. It is looking to me to be more of a nuance to be discovered and tuned on a per-setup basis. (For example, I had to go the opposite direction. I had terrible results with anything aluminum, and had to go at least all steel.) You might find that you have to revisit when you get your 9". |
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Originally Posted By dredeagle: K ... so ... it's been a bit. I'm posting to announce ... 'nuff success to share my recipe. Rifle: 16" dedicated with KVP Linear Comp; cmmg dedicated conversion; KNS AR15 Buffer Tube to Pic Rail Adapter; M&P 15-22 Mags; Modified* Better Mag Adapter; Bore Buddy Aluminum Adjustable Bolt Weight with 4x Steel weights; Bore Buddy Atrius Trip Sled; Atrius Super Selektor; Rave 140. *Better Mag Adapter clearanced where the Atrius Trip Sled interfered. Been at this maybe 8 months. Turns out I made a wrong turn early on which I finally undid yesterday. Early reports describe successes with the increasingly elusive tungsten sled weights. Had it in my head to "go heavy," so I fretted with steel sled/steel weight failures. I do own the lead weights, but thankfully someone reported their issues before I stuck'm in my weight sled. Well, last week, some saintly soul reported running with the aluminum weight sled. That was the course correction my thick skull required. Don't read much about folks running the 15-22 mags with the BMA. But additional thanks to the saintly souls that pointed out the points of interference with the trip sled. I have other mags but, frankly dislike the idea of stopping a moving bolt with a plastic follower. Yes, I got working LRBHO. I celebrated this small success by ordering a 9" barrel from RTB. With the folding stock attached to the KNS, 16" looks off. And, my Free Form 1 will maybe get approved eventually. I am using the 15/22 mags and the better mag adapter. I noticed early on the trip was hitting it and that was the very first thing I did, thinking that was the issue. But it was not and I had all but forgotten I had done it. So you are using the lightweight weight kit? This one? So lighter weight was your fix and not heavier? |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: So you are using the lightweight weight kit? This one? So lighter weight was your fix and not heavier? So, I have a shoebox full of Bore buddy bits. That's said 'cause I can't point to the "how" I got it. But, IIRC bore buddy has/d some master kit that arrived with both the aluminum and steel weight sleds. I had never used the aluminum sled 'cause I was aiming heavy. I was aiming heavy because folks reported success with tungsten which is ... heavy. Plus heavier is slower which I prefer. -- and, on the gas gun side, we have learned that the larger the sliding weight as compared to total weight - the greater the deadblow effectiveness. So, running steel sliders in the aluminum will moderate bounce better. -- So, yes, going lighter worked. But I suspect getting an improved sliding v. total ratio is why going lighter worked. Further, I think it's why the steel sled is reported to work with tungsten sliders. I ran golden bullets 'cause that's what was in the mags. Got more golden bullets, stingers and blazer loaded up on deck for further testing. |
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Back from the range. Still pretty decent with Golden Bullets. Stingers - 5 to 10 before Hammer Down on Live Round. Velocitors - 2 to 3 before HDLR. Blazer - sporadic delivered from 50rd drum. I'm still on deck to make or buy tungsten weights. She's running faster than I like. Now that the optic is sited, 22 plays in the back yard. Plan going forward is to try building a recipe sheet for each variety I inventory. |
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Originally Posted By dredeagle: Back from the range. Still pretty decent with Golden Bullets. Stingers - 5 to 10 before Hammer Down on Live Round. Velocitors - 2 to 3 before HDLR. Blazer - sporadic delivered from 50rd drum. I'm still on deck to make or buy tungsten weights. She's running faster than I like. Now that the optic is sited, 22 plays in the back yard. Plan going forward is to try building a recipe sheet for each variety I inventory. I think they're all going to run fast. It's a very short stroke. Are you running the 36 gr or 40 gr golden bullets? Round nose or hollow point? (I've had decent reliability with the hollow points in both weights.) |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: I think they're all going to run fast. It's a very short stroke. Are you running the 36 gr or 40 gr golden bullets? Round nose or hollow point? (I've had decent reliability with the hollow points in both weights.) Unknown actually. Mags were loaded ~18mo ago. |
| I’ve had much better luck with 40gr (Blazer, CCI SV, Golden Bullets, Win Super Extra) than 36gr Federal bulk red box. 4.5” + SS Sparrow w/ Cornfire. |
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Got my upper back from BB. I will not have time to try it out this weekend sadly. I need to clean it anyways as it is filthy. They claimed it ran as is when they got it. They also said I was using a SS trip with the arc/atrius and that I should be using the specific trip for those. Well, those were not even out when I bought my upper and trip. A lot of their responses have been very patronizing too. I see various reports of the quiet collar causing issues. I really do not want to continue to dump more money into this money pit by buying yet another trip and a new collar. I'm going to grumble over this for a few days before I make a decision to either spend more money and buy more parts, or just cut bait and say I am completely done with this POS. |
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Just make sure you try a few different brands of ammo. My 16” shoots truncated bullets better while my 20” shouts the rounded-shaped hollow point bullets better. I hope it runs well after all you have had to do! |
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| I actually gave up on these a year ago and decided to try again. It’s a 20 year old (can’t remember brand JAC?..) 22 carrier and a 4.5” barrel. Stuck it in a no name upper and lube the heck out of it. Using the GMR trip and weight thing I was able to dump suppressed mags as long as I wasn’t shooting downward. I had to have the gun parallel to the ground for whatever reason. I was using a SS with the plastic lever not metal. |
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Originally Posted By HKH: I actually gave up on these a year ago and decided to try again. It’s a 20 year old (can’t remember brand JAC?..) 22 carrier and a 4.5” barrel. Stuck it in a no name upper and lube the heck out of it. Using the GMR trip and weight thing I was able to dump suppressed mags as long as I wasn’t shooting downward. I had to have the gun parallel to the ground for whatever reason. I was using a SS with the plastic lever not metal. Is it a Ceiner-style BCG? How much rotational play is there between the lever and the cam? Is it pretty loose? |
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Finally got mine running Suppressed too! Until recently, I was only able to get it to run with mini-mags. Now it runs great with 45gr Winchester super suppressed and pretty good with 45gr cci quiet clean. And I bought 8,400 rounds of the Winchester. ETA Make that 9,800 I missed a case. 7 cases, 4 boxes of 350 rounds. I shot another 8 or 10 mags nearly 100%. It was fun with mini-mags, so much better sub sonic! |
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I haven’t seen much mention of it so I wanted to share that the Catch22 adapter to use 15-22 mags in a standard magwell has been flawless for me! https://www.brownells.com/gun-parts/rifle-parts/rifle-magazine-parts/ar-15-.22lr-sw--mp-15-22-clip-on-magazine-adapter/ I already have a bunch of of 15-22 mags and like how the load, so I wanted to use them vs buying new Kriss mags if at all possible. The Catch22 is a simple 3D printed clip under $10, I love when simple solutions work so well! |
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Originally Posted By AFCarbon15: Finally got mine running Suppressed too! Until recently, I was only able to get it to run with mini-mags. Now it runs great with 45gr Winchester super suppressor and pretty good with 45gr cci quiet clean. And I bought 8,400 rounds of the Winchester. What was your final setup (BCG, barrel length, recoil spring, weight carrier weight and configuration, FRT setup, trip, magazines, any other do-dads)? |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: What was your final setup (BCG, barrel length, recoil spring, weight carrier weight and configuration, FRT setup, trip, magazines, any other do-dads)? CMMG dedicated bolt with all Bore Buddy parts. Bore buddy: 12" match fluted barrel Stainless weigh body with all stainless weights. Yellow recoil spring Bore Buddy Super Safety trip kit Extractor, medium spring Firing pin, lightest spring Buffer plug, with or without 3dp stainless super safety or milspec and Atrius (same upper works on either lower) Gemtech GM-22 |
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Originally Posted By jerz_subbie: I haven’t seen much mention of it so I wanted to share that the Catch22 adapter to use 15-22 mags in a standard magwell has been flawless for me! https://www.brownells.com/gun-parts/rifle-parts/rifle-magazine-parts/ar-15-.22lr-sw--mp-15-22-clip-on-magazine-adapter/ I already have a bunch of of 15-22 mags and like how the load, so I wanted to use them vs buying new Kriss mags if at all possible. The Catch22 is a simple 3D printed clip under $10, I love when simple solutions work so well! Thank you for posting about this - I just installed their mag adapter, bolt catch and spring in my old dedicated .22. I’ve always had issues with the Redi-Mag LRBHO adapter in this one, the Catch22 stuff bench tests much better than it has ever worked before. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Got my upper back from BB. I will not have time to try it out this weekend sadly. I need to clean it anyways as it is filthy. They claimed it ran as is when they got it. They also said I was using a SS trip with the arc/atrius and that I should be using the specific trip for those. Well, those were not even out when I bought my upper and trip. A lot of their responses have been very patronizing too. I see various reports of the quiet collar causing issues. I really do not want to continue to dump more money into this money pit by buying yet another trip and a new collar. I'm going to grumble over this for a few days before I make a decision to either spend more money and buy more parts, or just cut bait and say I am completely done with this POS. Interesting, I would have thought the quiet collar would improve the situation by acting to further reduce bolt bounce. |
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I’ve got a lot of ideas from this post so I wanted to add my experience in, just in case it helps someone else. Finally got my AR22 running. It’s a BoreBuddy AR22 with a 7 inch barrel tucked upper and an old Silencerco Spectre II with a PSA lower with an ARC Fire in it. The lower is dedicated to 22lr. Took what felt like forever but I usually only had 30-60 minutes here or there to mess with it. Only good thing is I can step in to my backyard and test fire it whenever I make a change. Initially, got it up and running fairly quickly but I could always only get bursts of 5-10 before I’d get a dead trigger. Tried low power trigger and hammer springs. Polished everything on the bolt with Flitz to try and lower friction. Next was a bobbed “speed” hammer thinking I was still occasionally not having enough velocity to overcome the trigger and hammer spring. Found i could test that by only loading one round in a mag and firing in FRT mode. Got lock back on all 10 single shots and realized it wasn’t that the springs were too heavy. Revisited bolt bounce and bought tungsten rods and cut them to fit in the weight kit from BoreBuddy, since the heaviest rods they sell are the steel rods. Unless you’re brave enough to try the lead ones (but I’ve read about them deforming and getting stuck, so I decided against them). Tungsten weights helped but didn’t fix the issue completely. Was still getting random dead triggers. While reading on Reddit’s AR22, I saw several comments about AR22’s needing triggers cut specific to them as the AR22 needs less material removed/rounded on the back left side of the shoe. Bought a G$ trigger but was apprehensive about cutting it. So i bought an $7 “GI trigger shoe” (AR Stoner brand from MidwayUSA) to try cutting. Spent 2-3 hours over several nights getting the right side cut and then hand sanding/rounding the left side. Didn’t take long before I got to the point of bench testing with dry fire after every few swipes on the sandpaper. Finally live fired it two nights ago and it ran three 25 round and two 15 round Kriss magazines worth of CCI tactical. Followed today with three 25 round mags of CCI mini mags 40 grain RN. No hiccups at all. Tried some Federal 745 36 grain HP, but they aren’t consistent enough. They feel underpowered compared to even the CCI Tactical, despite advertising higher FPS. Can’t decide now if I want the adventure of tuning for standard velocity/subsonic ammo to try and get a little quieter. Or to just stick with Mini mags, since they’re still subsonic out of the 7 inch barrel. So final rundown of parts is: 7 inch BoreBuddy tucked upper BoreBuddy bolt BoreBuddy Yellow recoil spring BoreBuddy super strike firing pin with light firing pin spring BoreBuddy extra power extractor with spring BoreBuddy ARC trip BoreBuddy steel weight kit with tungsten rods BoreBuddy quiet collar BoreBuddy bolt buffer BoreBuddy buffer plug BoreBuddy AR22 bolt catch w/ reduced power spring KM Tactical Bobbed “speed” hammer Kaw Valley reduced power hammer and trigger spring Kriss Magazines 25 and 15 rounds |
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Originally Posted By Vector6: I’ve got a lot of ideas from this post so I wanted to add my experience in, just in case it helps someone else. Finally got my AR22 running. It’s a BoreBuddy AR22 with a 7 inch barrel tucked upper and an old Silencerco Spectre II with a PSA lower with an ARC Fire in it. The lower is dedicated to 22lr. Took what felt like forever but I usually only had 30-60 minutes here or there to mess with it. Only good thing is I can step in to my backyard and test fire it whenever I make a change. Initially, got it up and running fairly quickly but I could always only get bursts of 5-10 before I’d get a dead trigger. Tried low power trigger and hammer springs. Polished everything on the bolt with Flitz to try and lower friction. Next was a bobbed “speed” hammer thinking I was still occasionally not having enough velocity to overcome the trigger and hammer spring. Found i could test that by only loading one round in a mag and firing in FRT mode. Got lock back on all 10 single shots and realized it wasn’t that the springs were too heavy. Revisited bolt bounce and bought tungsten rods and cut them to fit in the weight kit from BoreBuddy, since the heaviest rods they sell are the steel rods. Unless you’re brave enough to try the lead ones (but I’ve read about them deforming and getting stuck, so I decided against them). Tungsten weights helped but didn’t fix the issue completely. Was still getting random dead triggers. While reading on Reddit’s AR22, I saw several comments about AR22’s needing triggers cut specific to them as the AR22 needs less material removed/rounded on the back left side of the shoe. Bought a G$ trigger but was apprehensive about cutting it. So i bought an $7 “GI trigger shoe” (AR Stoner brand from MidwayUSA) to try cutting. Spent 2-3 hours over several nights getting the right side cut and then hand sanding/rounding the left side. Didn’t take long before I got to the point of bench testing with dry fire after every few swipes on the sandpaper. Finally live fired it two nights ago and it ran three 25 round and two 15 round Kriss magazines worth of CCI tactical. Followed today with three 25 round mags of CCI mini mags 40 grain RN. No hiccups at all. Tried some Federal 745 36 grain HP, but they aren’t consistent enough. They feel underpowered compared to even the CCI Tactical, despite advertising higher FPS. Can’t decide now if I want the adventure of tuning for standard velocity/subsonic ammo to try and get a little quieter. Or to just stick with Mini mags, since they’re still subsonic out of the 7 inch barrel. So final rundown of parts is: 7 inch BoreBuddy tucked upper BoreBuddy bolt BoreBuddy Yellow recoil spring BoreBuddy super strike firing pin with light firing pin spring BoreBuddy extra power extractor with spring BoreBuddy ARC trip BoreBuddy steel weight kit with tungsten rods BoreBuddy quiet collar BoreBuddy bolt buffer BoreBuddy buffer plug BoreBuddy AR22 bolt catch w/ reduced power spring KM Tactical Bobbed “speed” hammer Kaw Valley reduced power hammer and trigger spring Kriss Magazines 25 and 15 rounds Pics of the modified trigger please. 
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Originally Posted By Cycolac: Pics of the modified trigger please. Originally Posted By Cycolac: Originally Posted By Vector6: I’ve got a lot of ideas from this post so I wanted to add my experience in, just in case it helps someone else. Finally got my AR22 running. It’s a BoreBuddy AR22 with a 7 inch barrel tucked upper and an old Silencerco Spectre II with a PSA lower with an ARC Fire in it. The lower is dedicated to 22lr. Took what felt like forever but I usually only had 30-60 minutes here or there to mess with it. Only good thing is I can step in to my backyard and test fire it whenever I make a change. Initially, got it up and running fairly quickly but I could always only get bursts of 5-10 before I’d get a dead trigger. Tried low power trigger and hammer springs. Polished everything on the bolt with Flitz to try and lower friction. Next was a bobbed “speed” hammer thinking I was still occasionally not having enough velocity to overcome the trigger and hammer spring. Found i could test that by only loading one round in a mag and firing in FRT mode. Got lock back on all 10 single shots and realized it wasn’t that the springs were too heavy. Revisited bolt bounce and bought tungsten rods and cut them to fit in the weight kit from BoreBuddy, since the heaviest rods they sell are the steel rods. Unless you’re brave enough to try the lead ones (but I’ve read about them deforming and getting stuck, so I decided against them). Tungsten weights helped but didn’t fix the issue completely. Was still getting random dead triggers. While reading on Reddit’s AR22, I saw several comments about AR22’s needing triggers cut specific to them as the AR22 needs less material removed/rounded on the back left side of the shoe. Bought a G$ trigger but was apprehensive about cutting it. So i bought an $7 “GI trigger shoe” (AR Stoner brand from MidwayUSA) to try cutting. Spent 2-3 hours over several nights getting the right side cut and then hand sanding/rounding the left side. Didn’t take long before I got to the point of bench testing with dry fire after every few swipes on the sandpaper. Finally live fired it two nights ago and it ran three 25 round and two 15 round Kriss magazines worth of CCI tactical. Followed today with three 25 round mags of CCI mini mags 40 grain RN. No hiccups at all. Tried some Federal 745 36 grain HP, but they aren’t consistent enough. They feel underpowered compared to even the CCI Tactical, despite advertising higher FPS. Can’t decide now if I want the adventure of tuning for standard velocity/subsonic ammo to try and get a little quieter. Or to just stick with Mini mags, since they’re still subsonic out of the 7 inch barrel. So final rundown of parts is: 7 inch BoreBuddy tucked upper BoreBuddy bolt BoreBuddy Yellow recoil spring BoreBuddy super strike firing pin with light firing pin spring BoreBuddy extra power extractor with spring BoreBuddy ARC trip BoreBuddy steel weight kit with tungsten rods BoreBuddy quiet collar BoreBuddy bolt buffer BoreBuddy buffer plug BoreBuddy AR22 bolt catch w/ reduced power spring KM Tactical Bobbed “speed” hammer Kaw Valley reduced power hammer and trigger spring Kriss Magazines 25 and 15 rounds Pics of the modified trigger please. I’ll get pics up. I need to take it back out, polish it a little bit more and then cold blue the cuts. Might be a day or two before I have time to do it though. |
I’m not a photographer so this is best I can do as far as pictures  Attached File Attached File Attached File Attached File Also not a machinist, so keep that in mind. Mainly just tried to adapt HKH’s recommendations for cutting a Geissele trigger from the main ARC Fire Talk thread. |
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Originally Posted By Vector6: I’ll get pics up. I need to take it back out, polish it a little bit more and then cold blue the cuts. Might be a day or two before I have time to do it though. Great write-up and pics! Thanks for sharing that. Question: I noticed you (or someone) sanded a tiny bit of the left side near the safety radius of the trigger shoe. I haven't seen that before. What does that to? |
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Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Great write-up and pics! Thanks for sharing that. Question: I noticed you (or someone) sanded a tiny bit of the left side near the safety radius of the trigger shoe. I haven't seen that before. What does that to? Originally Posted By lugnutwrench2: Originally Posted By Vector6: I’ll get pics up. I need to take it back out, polish it a little bit more and then cold blue the cuts. Might be a day or two before I have time to do it though. Great write-up and pics! Thanks for sharing that. Question: I noticed you (or someone) sanded a tiny bit of the left side near the safety radius of the trigger shoe. I haven't seen that before. What does that to? You’re talking about this spot specifically? Attached File When I was cutting the GI trigger and comparing it to the precut ARC trigger, the GI trigger looked thicker on that wall. So I thinned out the outer and inner wall of the left side till it matched the ARC trigger. It was a AR Stoner trigger from Midway and is literally the cheapest shoe I could find. Not sure if that had anything do with it or not. |
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More of a PSA but just remember to watch out for squibs while shooting your FRT. Got a squib today in a CCI AR Tactical. Attached File Attached File Attached File Pushed right out even with the flimsy first rod I grabbed but wouldn’t have been as fun if I had just ran the charging handle and sent another 6 rounds. |
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I’ve flipped through several threads here, but certainly could have missed if someone has had a similar issue. I’m open to suggestions on how to proceed as I’d really like to get this running. My setup works flawlessly on a registered receiver, so I feel the upper itself is solid, but I can’t get it to work reliably on my Atrius/Rave lower. Semi works flawlessly. The issue is with the third position - I get a single trigger pull that runs flawlessly (for however many rounds I hold the trigger down the first time, including a full BCM 50-round drum). But – once I release the trigger, I have a dead trigger and a bolt that doesn’t (and won’t) go into battery – there’s a ¼” gap between the bolt and the barrel collar. When I break the receivers apart, the Atrius lever has slipped out of the pocket of the BB trip and is in front of it. I have not tried adjusting the trip location – but that seems counterintuitive if it’s working flawlessly for the first trigger pull. And the way the trip is made it appears I’d have to grind off a tab on the weight if I wanted to shift the trip position any. Hardware: I’m running a Rise Armament 140 and an Atrius selector (as an aside rant, it’s single-sided – they screwed me and canceled my ambi upgrade that I ordered the first day they became available as I’m in VA, then realized they had interpreted VA law wrong, but stopped selling ambi upgrades by the time they acknowledged that). I’m using a Kuehl 4.5” upper (‘90s old school!) with a CMMG SS bolt and anti-bounce weight with a Bore Buddy trip, with an AWC Spectre suppressor. This setup (with the CMMG trip) runs perfectly on a registered receiver. My bolt parts: Attached File The bolt position after releasing the trigger from the first pull that works: Attached File |
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@TheFaz See pic of the underside of the CMMG conversion with the tab on the rear of the bolt that pulls the bore buddy forward to trip the lever (or the autosear on an M-16). Is there something additional that should be there for use with an Atrius or similar? As noted, this has worked flawlessly for decades with an M-16 lower. As that's got a Fightlite on it now, so was hoping to get a dedicated Atrius/RA-140 lower running for this .22. Note I'm using the anti-bounce weight to hold the Bore Buddy in place. Attached File |
| Recently tried some Armscor 36 grain hp after reading some of you guys on here have used it. Figured it was worth a shot when I saw it on sale for $29.99 a brick. To my complete and utter surprise, these things didn’t cause a single failure going brrrt. I only mention this because we always hear 40 gr round nose is what you should use to tune. But don't forget the other common rule for 22lr. Every one is a different animal and can like different brands or grains of 22lr. Don’t be afraid to step outside 40 gr Minimags. |
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Follow-up to my previous posts concerning my FRT only working for one trigger pull, then the Atrius lever displacing from the pocket of the Bore Buddy trip preventing continued firing unless I broke open the receivers and repositioned the lever for another single trigger pull. I contacted Bore Buddy as I had purchased their trip to interface with the Atrius lever as my autosear trip did not. They were great - they called me back quickly and they took their time discussing the situation with me. They had reviewed my posts and had two basic comments: - they'd never seen my situation before so didn't have a ready resolution. Which is understandable as ... - my upper is old (~30 years) and there are dimensional differences from the current options they designed around and have experience getting to work. So their suggestion if I decide to pursue getting a .22 to run with an FRT is to upgrade my upper with newer parts. Easiest path being a 12"+ complete upper from them. So new parts are going on my list of desired purchases between now and July 1 due to incoming VA laws. They acknowledged they (as well as numerous other sellers) may suspend sales then while they evaluate the political implications as one of the new laws enables frivolous lawsuits against the firearms industry. So gotta decide where this falls in my priorities. |
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Anyone get a AZ regulator running with a .22? I haven’t put much time into at and thought about messing around to see if I get it to run. I have all the parts aside from a trip |
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Originally Posted By mc556: Anyone get a AZ regulator running with a .22? I haven’t put much time into at and thought about messing around to see if I get it to run. I have all the parts aside from a trip Not really sure there’s enough power to reliably run a kabuto style FRT. Install it and let’s find out… |
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Originally Posted By HKPDW: Not really sure there’s enough power to reliably run a kabuto style FRT. Install it and let’s find out… Originally Posted By HKPDW: Originally Posted By mc556: Anyone get a AZ regulator running with a .22? I haven’t put much time into at and thought about messing around to see if I get it to run. I have all the parts aside from a trip Not really sure there’s enough power to reliably run a kabuto style FRT. Install it and let’s find out… No luck so far with a 3d printed trip |
"Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience."
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I figured I would add some data for those having issues with 22 SS / FRT builds. I have 2 PSA factory .22 uppers, an 8.5" and a 10.5" on PSA pistol lowers. My goal was to run standard velocity with my dedicated OCL Ti cans. I did a LOT of reading on this and other forms to get myself a starting point. Both were tested in stock condition to work out any bugs before starting FRT mods. Believe it or not, both run FRT on the same setup. I am using the ARC-fire V1. Both had some bursts from the start before tuning. I polished all mating surfaces on the BCG and lower to start. I wanted as little friction as possible. I bought the Bore Buddy trip kits and had some other BB parts already in stock. Final weight configuration is all SS/ SS weights. Yellow #4 recoil spring. 200% extractor spring. The 8.5 extractor was replaced with BB to better hold the cartridge rim. LW FP spring. Both stock FPs. BB plug and CH filler. KVP LW lower spring kit, but with a stock hammer spring to cut an occasional light FP strike. All testing was with the AU mags. I do want to try some others in the future. Aguila SV , older CCI SV, and the new Remington SV all run in this setup. I hope this data helps someone elses journey. I forgot to add= I did NOT use the timing shims included with the BB ARC trips. The included triggers were cut differently than my previous ARC triggers and didn't need it.  |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I may have cracked the code. I'm shooting a 12" Bore Buddy upper, with a Warlock II silencer. I struggled to get the FRT-15L3 running, and eventually sort of did, but I never felt that it was truly running reliably. I started over with an Atrius Super Selektor, and a Rise Armament Rave 140. This trigger is advertised (even "certified") by Bore Buddy to drop in and work with the Atrius, and by Jove it does. I had an enormously successful range session with this setup. In the lower I have a dedicated 22 bolt catch, a buffer plug, and I believe I currently have the 4 pound recoil spring. I also have the steel weight, with (I believe) all four steel pin weights. It's been a few months since I roll pinned the weight shut, but I suppose I could weigh it. The upper is all Bore Buddy, with their Super Safety trip. https://i.imgur.com/rTBJ5cp.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/rTBJ5cp.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/4UeuTJI.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/4UeuTJI.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/SMF259k.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/SMF259k.jpeg I had a bore buddy setup and couldn’t get it to work, emailing bore buddy was basically like we don’t support our stuff figure it out yourself. So I bought a dedicated bore buddy upper with atrius cut and use a rise plus atrius. Running into a dry fire issue, in FRT mode, charging the gun hits a “wall” when tue bolt hits the rise hammer. You have to pull pretty hard and it clears it and resets but the bolt just doesn’t interface with the hammer well. Did yours do that? I emailed them and they sent me a video of polishing the bolt and the rise hammer and basically said whoops should have ordered the VIP package. They really need to not say atrius and rise just work, especially with their upper, when it doesn’t work. In any case, when you dropped in your rise, did you get a “wall” when the bolt interfaced with the hammer? If so, how did you smooth it out? |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Got my upper back from BB. I will not have time to try it out this weekend sadly. I need to clean it anyways as it is filthy. They claimed it ran as is when they got it. They also said I was using a SS trip with the arc/atrius and that I should be using the specific trip for those. Well, those were not even out when I bought my upper and trip. A lot of their responses have been very patronizing too. I see various reports of the quiet collar causing issues. I really do not want to continue to dump more money into this money pit by buying yet another trip and a new collar. I'm going to grumble over this for a few days before I make a decision to either spend more money and buy more parts, or just cut bait and say I am completely done with this POS. Yea every interaction I’ve had has been patronizing to say the least. Weird for a company charging what they do. |
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Reminds me that I need to fiddle with my .22 setup again. Just have not played with it enough other than slapping in a GMR package and seeing what happened, hell I didn’t even try the upper for function without the SS parts in it, so I have no idea how well it can work anyhow. Just too dang busy, and the 5.56 AR versions have been too easy to make work. Got an AK version running well, just hurts to shoot, and is nothing like a real F/A AK as a result. But the version I really want working well is the .22 LR…. Too many projects. Gotta go back and read this whole thread again before starting… |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: I had a bore buddy setup and couldn’t get it to work, emailing bore buddy was basically like we don’t support our stuff figure it out yourself. So I bought a dedicated bore buddy upper with atrius cut and use a rise plus atrius. Running into a dry fire issue, in FRT mode, charging the gun hits a “wall” when tue bolt hits the rise hammer. You have to pull pretty hard and it clears it and resets but the bolt just doesn’t interface with the hammer well. Did yours do that? I emailed them and they sent me a video of polishing the bolt and the rise hammer and basically said whoops should have ordered the VIP package. They really need to not say atrius and rise just work, especially with their upper, when it doesn’t work. In any case, when you dropped in your rise, did you get a “wall” when the bolt interfaced with the hammer? If so, how did you smooth it out? Originally Posted By jclendineng: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I may have cracked the code. I'm shooting a 12" Bore Buddy upper, with a Warlock II silencer. I struggled to get the FRT-15L3 running, and eventually sort of did, but I never felt that it was truly running reliably. I started over with an Atrius Super Selektor, and a Rise Armament Rave 140. This trigger is advertised (even "certified") by Bore Buddy to drop in and work with the Atrius, and by Jove it does. I had an enormously successful range session with this setup. In the lower I have a dedicated 22 bolt catch, a buffer plug, and I believe I currently have the 4 pound recoil spring. I also have the steel weight, with (I believe) all four steel pin weights. It's been a few months since I roll pinned the weight shut, but I suppose I could weigh it. The upper is all Bore Buddy, with their Super Safety trip. https://i.imgur.com/rTBJ5cp.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/rTBJ5cp.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/4UeuTJI.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/4UeuTJI.jpeg https://i.imgur.com/SMF259k.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/SMF259k.jpeg I had a bore buddy setup and couldn’t get it to work, emailing bore buddy was basically like we don’t support our stuff figure it out yourself. So I bought a dedicated bore buddy upper with atrius cut and use a rise plus atrius. Running into a dry fire issue, in FRT mode, charging the gun hits a “wall” when tue bolt hits the rise hammer. You have to pull pretty hard and it clears it and resets but the bolt just doesn’t interface with the hammer well. Did yours do that? I emailed them and they sent me a video of polishing the bolt and the rise hammer and basically said whoops should have ordered the VIP package. They really need to not say atrius and rise just work, especially with their upper, when it doesn’t work. In any case, when you dropped in your rise, did you get a “wall” when the bolt interfaced with the hammer? If so, how did you smooth it out? When was your Rise 140 trigger made? I have noted a distinct difference between their new triggers and their old ones in the sear engagement area. The new style works for me, the older one fails the function test.  " />Here the good one is on the left, bad on the right: |
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I emailed them again. It works fine in semi, no wall, in FRT without the trip it also works fine so appears to be the trip. If you put hammer back in frt mode can you rotate the lever back with little force? Mine feels very tight going rearward unlike a standard super safety. Does yours have a lot of tension? If I rotate it all the way back it gets stuck and I’m pretty sure that’s the issue I am running into. https://imgur.com/a/LcVskH6 |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: I emailed them again. It works fine in semi, no wall, in FRT without the trip it also works fine so appears to be the trip. If you put hammer back in frt mode can you rotate the lever back with little force? Mine feels very tight going rearward unlike a standard super safety. Does yours have a lot of tension? If I rotate it all the way back it gets stuck and I’m pretty sure that’s the issue I am running into. With my two new Rave 140s, the trip levers swing without resistance when doing that function test. With my older one that I bought used, I encounter significant resistance. I would note, that older Rave 140 works perfectly with a Cornfire MARC, which has a slightly smaller diameter cam. That combination now sits in my 458 SOCOM rifle. |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: Awesome, so looks like I’m going to have to try and get a replacement out of them. Should be fun! Yea there is significant resistance in frt mode. Just to make sure, let's have you look closely at the bottom of the hammer, as viewed like the photo I posted above. Which does it look like? |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Just to make sure, let's have you look closely at the bottom of the hammer, as viewed like the photo I posted above. Which does it look like? Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By jclendineng: Awesome, so looks like I’m going to have to try and get a replacement out of them. Should be fun! Yea there is significant resistance in frt mode. Just to make sure, let's have you look closely at the bottom of the hammer, as viewed like the photo I posted above. Which does it look like? https://imgur.com/a/AY0Uc76 I still think it looks like the one on the left but yea a lot of resistance in FRT. my first experience with drop ins has proven me right 
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: https://imgur.com/a/AY0Uc76 I still think it looks like the one on the left but yea a lot of resistance in FRT. my first experience with drop ins has proven me right Originally Posted By jclendineng: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By jclendineng: Awesome, so looks like I’m going to have to try and get a replacement out of them. Should be fun! Yea there is significant resistance in frt mode. Just to make sure, let's have you look closely at the bottom of the hammer, as viewed like the photo I posted above. Which does it look like? https://imgur.com/a/AY0Uc76 I still think it looks like the one on the left but yea a lot of resistance in FRT. my first experience with drop ins has proven me right Okay, that looks like a newer production Rave to me, which passes function tests for me. Can you be any more specific on how your function test goes? Is this your first attempt at FRTing a 22? Do you own any other AR FRTs? |
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| I have an undisclosed number but over 15, and a couple other .22, so I’m familiar with function testing for the most part, essentially everything passes except the bind test, when I put into frt mode and rotate the lever rear, it’s very tight and gets stuck when rotated too far. |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: I have an undisclosed number but over 15, and a couple other .22, so I’m familiar with function testing for the most part, essentially everything passes except the bind test, when I put into frt mode and rotate the lever rear, it’s very tight and gets stuck when rotated too far. Hmmm. Do you have an ARC-Fire? What model of Bore Buddy trip do you have? Is it adjustable, or an Atrius specific one? |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Hmmm. Do you have an ARC-Fire? What model of Bore Buddy trip do you have? Is it adjustable, or an Atrius specific one? I have several ARC fires and a couple atrius as well as many super safeties. It’s the atrius specific trip, I had issues with a 4inch where I would get burst but not consistent so I just bought the bore buddy recommended upper and all parts from them just to be sure as yes I have had more issues with my .22s than anything else. This specific issue is related to actually function testing though. Attached is what I mean when I say binding. https://imgur.com/a/8sVAaIQ |
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Originally Posted By jclendineng: I have several ARC fires and a couple atrius as well as many super safeties. It’s the atrius specific trip, I had issues with a 4inch where I would get burst but not consistent so I just bought the bore buddy recommended upper and all parts from them just to be sure as yes I have had more issues with my .22s than anything else. This specific issue is related to actually function testing though. Attached is what I mean when I say binding. https://imgur.com/a/8sVAaIQ Originally Posted By jclendineng: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Hmmm. Do you have an ARC-Fire? What model of Bore Buddy trip do you have? Is it adjustable, or an Atrius specific one? I have several ARC fires and a couple atrius as well as many super safeties. It’s the atrius specific trip, I had issues with a 4inch where I would get burst but not consistent so I just bought the bore buddy recommended upper and all parts from them just to be sure as yes I have had more issues with my .22s than anything else. This specific issue is related to actually function testing though. Attached is what I mean when I say binding. https://imgur.com/a/8sVAaIQ Okay, I see what you mean. Thanks for posting, I'll do some experimenting with my Rave/Atrius combos tomorrow and see if I can reproduce it. Just one last thing... the spring on your Atrius isn't binding against the trigger, is it? Bunching up and inducing clearance problems? |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Okay, I see what you mean. Thanks for posting, I'll do some experimenting with my Rave/Atrius combos tomorrow and see if I can reproduce it. Just one last thing... the spring on your Atrius isn't binding against the trigger, is it? Bunching up and inducing clearance problems? Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By jclendineng: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Hmmm. Do you have an ARC-Fire? What model of Bore Buddy trip do you have? Is it adjustable, or an Atrius specific one? I have several ARC fires and a couple atrius as well as many super safeties. It’s the atrius specific trip, I had issues with a 4inch where I would get burst but not consistent so I just bought the bore buddy recommended upper and all parts from them just to be sure as yes I have had more issues with my .22s than anything else. This specific issue is related to actually function testing though. Attached is what I mean when I say binding. https://imgur.com/a/8sVAaIQ Okay, I see what you mean. Thanks for posting, I'll do some experimenting with my Rave/Atrius combos tomorrow and see if I can reproduce it. Just one last thing... the spring on your Atrius isn't binding against the trigger, is it? Bunching up and inducing clearance problems? I would say no but I can mess with it. It works fine in milspec configurations…I’m going to pull it out and verify in a spare lower anyways just to double check. Could also have an out of spec Atrius I spose, could try it with a milspec trigger and if that works as expected I’d lean towards rise being the issue. |
Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? (Page 10 of 11)
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