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Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? (Page 1 of 11)
Posted: 6/14/2025 8:11:38 PM EDT
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Curious to see who is running some form of forced reset with a 22LR. Either a drop in cassette style or super safety style. Interested to know what you are using (trigger), what upper, barrel length, and what other addons or mods you use to get it running. |
| I have a cmmg kit with a grey market research 22 anit bounce weights, trip bar and 3d printed paddle. 10.5” pistol upper. It doesn’t run very well. I’ve only gotten a few rounds to frt then dead trigger. I’ve installed all the weights and it still doesn't run properly. I’m going to give some different ammo a try next. |
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Originally Posted By ark-and-spark: I have a cmmg kit with a grey market research 22 anit bounce weights, trip bar and 3d printed paddle. 10.5” pistol upper. It doesn’t run very well. I’ve only gotten a few rounds to frt then dead trigger. I’ve installed all the weights and it still doesn't run properly. I’m going to give some different ammo a try next. I’m piecing together the same shit essentially, but I want to go with a 4-5” with no buffer tube. With the upper I put together for the M16, it did close to what yours is doing. I got the spring kit from Bore Buddy. Between that and timing the sear trip, I’v gotten pretty good reliability. The dead trigger is either the hammer being released too early, too much spring pressure causing short stroke or a combination of the two. You might try lightening the reciprocating mass first. I would also try the spring kit. Get some of the other reliability stuff like the firing pin, extractor and XP extractor springs. If you’re running a buffer tube, use a buffer and spring. Add something like a cork or dowel section to put pressure on the assembly to keep it from moving. I’ve done all of this. |
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR: I've seen a Ceiner run fine with a Rare Breed. Why is this a mystery? No different than an M16 setup. Cause it seems running perfectly with a FRT and 22lr seems to be hard to do. From what I have been reading, it seems a super safety is a little easier to get working with 22lr. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: The dead trigger is either the hammer being released too early, too much spring pressure causing short stroke or a combination of the two. You might try lightening the reciprocating mass first. I would also try the spring kit. Get some of the other reliability stuff like the firing pin, extractor and XP extractor springs. If you’re running a buffer tube, use a buffer and spring. Add something like a cork or dowel section to put pressure on the assembly to keep it from moving. I’ve done all of this. I have been playing with mine trying to get it to run. My setup is as follows: Bore buddy complete dedicated upper, 16in barrel. Bore buddy weight kit and adjustable sear trip, sure strike firing pin, quiet collar, recoil buffer, and pressure plug for the buffer tube. Weight kit has the SS weights in it. Runs fine with semi auto triggers. I tried the FRT15L3 and it runs fine on semi auto but not in forced reset. The adjustable trip seems to be adjusted right, as the trigger will not function if it is not enough forward to push on the trip. Adjusting it back makes the trigger not work at all. Adjusting more forward does not do anything. I have went all the way to the end of the slot for the screw. Any further and it would have fallen off, and it made no different. On forced reset, it will fire 1 shot then a dead trigger and a live round in the chamber with a light strike. Twice I did get a few rounds to burst, maybe 4-5, but that has only happened twice out of a few hundred rounds. I do not think it is short stroking as it runs perfectly fine in semi auto, even the semi auto in the FRT. If it is releasing too early, what can be done? Like mentioned, I have adjusted the trip every way I could. This trigger works perfectly in 223/5.56. One thing I wonder about, the whole trigger cassette does have a little movement in the lower receiver. I wonder if the movement could be causing any issues? Maybe it is only a issue with 22lr and not in centerfire? I thought about cutting some shims from a cereal box and putting under the cassette to take up the slack. |
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I’m thinking it’s the movement. It’s likely acting like bolt bounce. Are you getting light indentations on the rim like a light strike? If so, get a bottle of wine and use the cork between the buffer and the back of the subassembly. You’re getting close. ETA: I’m using the .22 recoil spring that’s one step below the factory weight and the midrange heavier extractor spring in my dedicated 16” upper for my transferable. If I can get it to run, I think I’ll be able to get a Super Safety version going. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: I’m thinking it’s the movement. It’s likely acting like bolt bounce. Are you getting light indentations on the rim like a light strike? If so, get a bottle of wine and use the cork between the buffer and the back of the subassembly. You’re getting close. ETA: I’m using the .22 recoil spring that’s one step below the factory weight and the midrange heavier extractor spring in my dedicated 16” upper for my transferable. If I can get it to run, I think I’ll be able to get a Super Safety version going. Yes, on FRT mode, it fires one then dead trigger. Live round in the chamber with a light strike. I have the bore buddy pressure plug (as outlined in my above post) that goes between the buffer and the back of the 22 carrier assembly. I have the weight kit, quiet collar, and pressure plug, all things that are supposed to help stop bolt bounce. I am not sure there is much else out there left to add for bolt bounce. I did just order a super safety and "trip sled" from this place I will see how it works. |
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OST To fix all these issues y’all are coming up with Before I release our ARIZONA REGULATOR 22LR |
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“A Law repugnant to the Constitution is void.” Marbury v. Madison, 5 U.S. 137 (1803) -
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“A Law repugnant to the Constitution is void.” Marbury v. Madison, 5 U.S. 137 (1803) -
Garland V. Cargill 602 U.S. __ , 7 (2024) - NYSRPA v. Bruen, 597 U.S. ___ (2022)
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: I have been playing with mine trying to get it to run. My setup is as follows: Bore buddy complete dedicated upper, 16in barrel. Bore buddy weight kit and adjustable sear trip, sure strike firing pin, quiet collar, recoil buffer, and pressure plug for the buffer tube. Weight kit has the SS weights in it. Runs fine with semi auto triggers. I tried the FRT15L3 and it runs fine on semi auto but not in forced reset. The adjustable trip seems to be adjusted right, as the trigger will not function if it is not enough forward to push on the trip. Adjusting it back makes the trigger not work at all. Adjusting more forward does not do anything. I have went all the way to the end of the slot for the screw. Any further and it would have fallen off, and it made no different. On forced reset, it will fire 1 shot then a dead trigger and a live round in the chamber with a light strike. Twice I did get a few rounds to burst, maybe 4-5, but that has only happened twice out of a few hundred rounds. I do not think it is short stroking as it runs perfectly fine in semi auto, even the semi auto in the FRT. If it is releasing too early, what can be done? Like mentioned, I have adjusted the trip every way I could. This trigger works perfectly in 223/5.56. One thing I wonder about, the whole trigger cassette does have a little movement in the lower receiver. I wonder if the movement could be causing any issues? Maybe it is only a issue with 22lr and not in centerfire? I thought about cutting some shims from a cereal box and putting under the cassette to take up the slack. IF all the engineering is correct then you are dealing with bolt bounce Should not need any adjustable anything if it’s engineered correctly |
No Quarter. ARIZONAREGULATOR.COM
“A Law repugnant to the Constitution is void.” Marbury v. Madison, 5 U.S. 137 (1803) -
Garland V. Cargill 602 U.S. __ , 7 (2024) - NYSRPA v. Bruen, 597 U.S. ___ (2022)
“A Law repugnant to the Constitution is void.” Marbury v. Madison, 5 U.S. 137 (1803) -
Garland V. Cargill 602 U.S. __ , 7 (2024) - NYSRPA v. Bruen, 597 U.S. ___ (2022)
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Originally Posted By 01ZULU: IF all the engineering is correct then you are dealing with bolt bounce Should not need any adjustable anything if it’s engineered correctly If it is bolt bounce, what else can I do to stop it? I already have the weight kit and quiet collar. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Yes, on FRT mode, it fires one then dead trigger. Live round in the chamber with a light strike. I have the bore buddy pressure plug (as outlined in my above post) that goes between the buffer and the back of the 22 carrier assembly. I have the weight kit, quiet collar, and pressure plug, all things that are supposed to help stop bolt bounce. I am not sure there is much else out there left to add for bolt bounce. I did just order a super safety and "trip sled" from this place I will see how it works. I overlooked the pressure plug, my bad. It just clicked that you’re not using a SuperSafety, DOH! Since your current setup is working fine with centerfire, I would keep it configured that way and get another receiver for the .22 if you haven’t already. I’ve had great luck with Andersons. You’re probably going to be better off with the adjustable trip sled instead of the solid unit. You’ll be able to evaluate them and let us know what works best. I have also read that the printed trip levers are more forgiving with the .22’s. I’ve gleaned a lot of information from this thread on a different site. Once you get everything for parts, keep us posted on how you’re progressing. |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: I overlooked the pressure plug, my bad. It just clicked that you’re not using a SuperSafety, DOH! Since your current setup is working fine with centerfire, I would keep it configured that way and get another receiver for the .22 if you haven’t already. I’ve had great luck with Andersons. You’re probably going to be better off with the adjustable trip sled instead of the solid unit. You’ll be able to evaluate them and let us know what works best. I have also read that the printed trip levers are more forgiving with the .22’s. I’ve gleaned a lot of information from this thread on a different site. Once you get everything for parts, keep us posted on how you’re progressing. Yea I have a dedicated lower for this 22lr build. I would have liked to get the FRT15L3 working, but does not seem like it jives with 22lr. I currently have a semi trigger in the lower just so I can shoot it, and the FRT15L3 is in my 223/5.56 carbine. I ordered the wide printed levers and SS from the same place I linked above. If the trip sled does not work, I'll look into a adjustable one. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: If it is bolt bounce, what else can I do to stop it? I already have the weight kit and quiet collar. If you have went the gammet with another brand and it won’t work id say hit up the manufacture so they can tell you what to do to get it to work Shouldn’t have to jack with anything. If it doesn’t run as provided then that’s a manufacturer thing they need to fix for you Far as other aftermarket things to fix the problem none should be needed if the engineering is correct Far as mine goes it won’t have those issues. It’ll be follow simple instructions same as the rest of the ARIZONA REGULATOR line |
No Quarter. ARIZONAREGULATOR.COM
“A Law repugnant to the Constitution is void.” Marbury v. Madison, 5 U.S. 137 (1803) -
Garland V. Cargill 602 U.S. __ , 7 (2024) - NYSRPA v. Bruen, 597 U.S. ___ (2022)
“A Law repugnant to the Constitution is void.” Marbury v. Madison, 5 U.S. 137 (1803) -
Garland V. Cargill 602 U.S. __ , 7 (2024) - NYSRPA v. Bruen, 597 U.S. ___ (2022)
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I have the complete bore buddy kit with the adjustable trip. You 100% need some adjustment. The cmmg style trips are adjustable. They are bent to adjust. But they also break. I had it running well a while back with CCI blazers. But the firing pin and trip both broke nearly the same time. I've never been able to get it right again since. 12-15rd bursts here and there. But usually 3-5rd burst and hammer down on a light primer strike. It runs best soaking wet with oil. But 22 is so finicky, even with fairly tight upper to lower registration, forward or rearward pressure on the vertical grip makes a difference. 10.5" 5.56 barrel Suppressed and unsuppressed 4# recoil spring Clipped firing pin rebound spring Bore buddy buffer (the one inside the conversion) Buffer insert plug I dont remember the weight setup that worked best. But it was a combination of tungsten and stainless. Federal bulk and automatch suck All Winchester I've tried are worse CCI blazer were best by far 40gr Mini-mags were marginally better than CCI Standard velocity (my preferred) 36gr mini-mags are almost as good as the 40gr Herter's 22's aren't bad either. ETA: The first rip here is a full 25rd mag of cci blazer.  Playing with an AR-15 drop-in. they run faster with 22 ! |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Yea I have a dedicated lower for this 22lr build. I would have liked to get the FRT15L3 working, but does not seem like it jives with 22lr. I currently have a semi trigger in the lower just so I can shoot it, and the FRT15L3 is in my 223/5.56 carbine. I ordered the wide printed levers and SS from the same place I linked above. If the trip sled does not work, I'll look into a adjustable one. Good deal. The Super Safeties are cheap enough that you can get one for every AR you own and not affect your wallet. I’ve been getting all my AR parts from them from the start and haven’t had any problems with them. I can’t wait to dive into the .22 madness, lol! |
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Originally Posted By cherenkov: Does the Bore Buddy Enhanced firing pin make a big difference when running an FRT or Super Safety If you are talking about their "sure strike" firing pin, I had to use that to get my upper to even run on semi auto. The one that came with my BB upper had a wide firing pin that hit a large portion of the rim, so much of it, it would have take a very heavy hammer spring to set anything off. This was after me installing their light firing pin spring, and even trying no firing pin spring. I contacted them and they said I need their sure strike firing pin. Kida pissed me off having to spend another 30-something dollars to make a upper run that I just dropped over $700 on for the upper and other related parts I got from them. The new firing pin is a traditional chisel shaped firing pin and it actually works. That style should be standard on their uppers. As far as working better with a SS or FRT, I really can not say. Mine will run in semi auto fine with the FRT15L3, but not in forced reset. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: If you are talking about their "sure strike" firing pin, I had to use that to get my upper to even run on semi auto. The one that came with my BB upper had a wide firing pin that hit a large portion of the rim, so much of it, it would have take a very heavy hammer spring to set anything off. This was after me installing their light firing pin spring, and even trying no firing pin spring. I contacted them and they said I need their sure strike firing pin. Kida pissed me off having to spend another 30-something dollars to make a upper run that I just dropped over $700 on for the upper and other related parts I got from them. The new firing pin is a traditional chisel shaped firing pin and it actually works. That style should be standard on their uppers. As far as working better with a SS or FRT, I really can not say. Mine will run in semi auto fine with the FRT15L3, but not in forced reset. Okay that is great info - are you saying the chisel type they claim is better is too large for effective strike? I also don't want to buy two of them They offer two, 
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That’s interesting. I have the crescent pin that I got for the dedicated upper I put together for the’16. It did help with the reliability. As far as I know, the hammer spring is the original that came with the SP1 before Mr. Fleming did his magic pre-‘86. The CMMG FP spring broke and I replaced it with one of the lower weight XP pieces that came with the BB spring tuning kit. The reliability went down marginally after replacing it and I was thinking it was ammo related. No problems in semiauto though. Looks like I’ll be adding a few more springs to the grocery list. |
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Originally Posted By ark-and-spark: Today I found an old box of Remington thunderbolt. I tried it in my cmmg conversion and it ran very well on super safe. Not 100% but close to it. Which ammo were you using before that didn’t work? Surprisingly, I’ve had good results with pre-covid Thunderbolts in the ‘16 conversion. |
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Originally Posted By LuvThmGuns: Running a Franklin Armory on a Tippman M4 combined with their quality magazines and re-loader its a blast. @LuvThmGuns What, if anything did you have to do to get the FA trigger to fit/work in the Tippmann? Curious if its drop in or if mods are needed? |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Which ammo were you using before that didn’t work? Surprisingly, I’ve had good results with pre-covid Thunderbolts in the ‘16 conversion. Agulia (sp?) and Winchester. The Winchester is horrible. The agulia is better but no where near as good as the thunderbolts. And these were definitely pre Covid thunderbolts. |
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Originally Posted By airgunner: @LuvThmGuns What, if anything did you have to do to get the FA trigger to fit/work in the Tippmann? Curious if its drop in or if mods are needed? Originally Posted By airgunner: Originally Posted By LuvThmGuns: Running a Franklin Armory on a Tippman M4 combined with their quality magazines and re-loader its a blast. @LuvThmGuns What, if anything did you have to do to get the FA trigger to fit/work in the Tippmann? Curious if its drop in or if mods are needed? He probably didn't have to do anything. Franklin is a binary not forced reset. Different operating principle. |
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Well I got the super safety and got it installed. It is a no go. I bought the SS cam, the wide printed levers, rounded detents, pre cut trigger, and the trip sled from super safety shop The SS cam had so much paint on it, it physically would not fit in the receiver. I do not think you could have driven it in with a hammer. I ended up taking a wire wheel on a dremel tool and buffed off some of the paint till it would fit through the receiver. It now moves freely. I installed everything and tried it out. I get nothing but light strikes. Long story short, I found something is keeping the bolt from fully closing. There is like 1/16 or less gap between the bolt and the barrel collar. If I push out the rear takedown pin, open the receiver a little, it will then close. I can close the receiver and then fire that round, but then it either jams or I get a light strike. Sometimes I can not even pull the trigger, like something is locked up. If I take out the trip sled, I can fire semi auto normally with no issue. Put the sled back in, back to holding the bolt open a little and light strikes. There is a lot of forward and back play in the lever in the cam. I think that might be part of the problem. When I can not pull the trigger, the cam is not rotated enough. I can grab it and manually twist it the rest of the ways and be able to pull the trigger. I still do not know what part is holding the bolt open a tiny bit, as once I open the receiver, whatever is holding it frees up. I bought the printed levers as it says on their description that they are great for 22lr builds. |
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Originally Posted By colt-fan: He probably didn't have to do anything. Franklin is a binary not forced reset. Different operating principle. There is probably more to it than that in a Tippmann. Hammer's on the Tippmann's are thinner then standard Milspec (to fit into their Bolt) which is why its not compatible with all aftermarket AR triggers. That and Tippmann offers a service to install a FA Binary trigger into their guns for $70 which I doubt would be a thing they'd specifically list on their site if it was a simple, no modes needed, drop in install? |
On going to war over religion: "You're basically killing each other to see who's got the better imaginary friend." - Richard Jeni
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Originally Posted By 01ZULU: OST To fix all these issues y’all are coming up with Before I release our ARIZONA REGULATOR 22LR Do it!! I have a M&P 15-22. Please make one work for that. I’m waiting for my first FRT to ship, and when you release a 3 position one I will get one of those too. Basically, Please take my money! |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Well I got the super safety and got it installed. It is a no go. I bought the SS cam, the wide printed levers, rounded detents, pre cut trigger, and the trip sled from super safety shop The SS cam had so much paint on it, it physically would not fit in the receiver. I do not think you could have driven it in with a hammer. I ended up taking a wire wheel on a dremel tool and buffed off some of the paint till it would fit through the receiver. It now moves freely. I installed everything and tried it out. I get nothing but light strikes. Long story short, I found something is keeping the bolt from fully closing. There is like 1/16 or less gap between the bolt and the barrel collar. If I push out the rear takedown pin, open the receiver a little, it will then close. I can close the receiver and then fire that round, but then it either jams or I get a light strike. Sometimes I can not even pull the trigger, like something is locked up. If I take out the trip sled, I can fire semi auto normally with no issue. Put the sled back in, back to holding the bolt open a little and light strikes. There is a lot of forward and back play in the lever in the cam. I think that might be part of the problem. When I can not pull the trigger, the cam is not rotated enough. I can grab it and manually twist it the rest of the ways and be able to pull the trigger. I still do not know what part is holding the bolt open a tiny bit, as once I open the receiver, whatever is holding it frees up. I bought the printed levers as it says on their description that they are great for 22lr builds. Light strikes is hammer follow or bolt bounce. The bolt not closing is also going to cause light strikes. Does it cycle in semi with all of the parts installed? Is the trigger locking up in semi? With the upper off, does everything work correctly with manual cycling of the trip lever in semi and super safe? Is the bolt bind in both modes or just one? Is your trip sled adjustable? |
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Light strikes is hammer follow or bolt bounce. The bolt not closing is also going to cause light strikes. Does it cycle in semi with all of the parts installed? Is the trigger locking up in semi? With the upper off, does everything work correctly with manual cycling of the trip lever in semi and super safe? Is the bolt bind in both modes or just one? Is your trip sled adjustable? The light strikes is from the bolt being held open slightly. It does this as soon as you close the bolt on a round, it does not do it empty. If I open the receiver, the bolt will close the rest of the way, I can then close it back and fire that one round, then it repeats. Does this on both modes. The sled is the one in the link I posted. It is not adjustable. If I take it out, I can fire the gun semi auto no problem. Put the sled back in and the problems come back. Does not matter what position the selector is in. The lever has a lot of play forward and back in the cam/selector. That is what is causing the trigger to lock up, as it is not moving the cam far enough. I can grab it with my fingers and rotate it a little more and it will unlock. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: The light strikes is from the bolt being held open slightly. It does this as soon as you close the bolt on a round, it does not do it empty. If I open the receiver, the bolt will close the rest of the way, I can then close it back and fire that one round, then it repeats. Does this on both modes. The sled is the one in the link I posted. It is not adjustable. If I take it out, I can fire the gun semi auto no problem. Put the sled back in and the problems come back. Does not matter what position the selector is in. The lever has a lot of play forward and back in the cam/selector. That is what is causing the trigger to lock up, as it is not moving the cam far enough. I can grab it with my fingers and rotate it a little more and it will unlock. It sounds like a tolerance problem with the sled and trip lever. The movement with the lever and cam are normal. Maybe the protrusion on the side of the lever is interfering with the movement. Try reducing the width a little at a time and see if it helps. |
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@Jeeps-And-Guns 2 things that helped me: I put a nice coating of oil between the trip sled and the flat metal of the conversion unit that it rests against. I installed an extra power hammer spring. |
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We need to stop looking at where Alaska has been, and embrace where it will be and what it will become, from what it has been and what it was.
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Are any of you using the Bore Buddy complete upper and kit that comes set up for FRT? I ordered one this morning. I have one of their complete uppers, but they did not offer them pre set up for FRT/SS when I got mine. I just added all the required parts to the order. It does not list specifically what makes it "ready", but I assume it adds their bolt weight and trip kit to it. Their descriptions are lacking. |
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| Shim the cam to take the slop out and ensure it does the forced reset around the 12 o clock position. If its holding the bolt open it may require sanding the top of the lever or the trip to give enough clearance to allow everything to close. Join one of the FB groups on the SS, i believe there is one dedicated to 22 on there. Lots of good info to help you troubleshoot. |
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Originally Posted By TheFaz: Shim the cam to take the slop out and ensure it does the forced reset around the 12 o clock position. If its holding the bolt open it may require sanding the top of the lever or the trip to give enough clearance to allow everything to close. Join one of the FB groups on the SS, i believe there is one dedicated to 22 on there. Lots of good info to help you troubleshoot. Shim the cam in what way? |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Shim the cam in what way? Probably where the cam and lever interface? I don’t think it would do anything besides limiting the movement of the trip lever. If you want to try it, use some stainless steel tape on the part of the lever that inserts into the cam. Again, I don’t think it will do anything besides limiting the travel. If you’re getting hammer follow, this will probably amplify it by releasing the trigger even sooner if it’s not bolt bounce causing it. Where the sled contacts the trip lever while moving forward will need adjusting to retard the cam releasing the trigger. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Shim the cam in what way? Cut a piece of soda can, bend it and shove it inside the cam. Most cams have the slot for the trip oversize to allow for easy insertion and movement. On a 556 that slop doesnt matter, but it can on a 22. Putting a shim in will remove the excess movement of the trip and improve reliability on a 22. |
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Originally Posted By TheFaz: Cut a piece of soda can, bend it and shove it inside the cam. Most cams have the slot for the trip oversize to allow for easy insertion and movement. On a 556 that slop doesnt matter, but it can on a 22. Putting a shim in will remove the excess movement of the trip and improve reliability on a 22. Originally Posted By TheFaz: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Shim the cam in what way? Cut a piece of soda can, bend it and shove it inside the cam. Most cams have the slot for the trip oversize to allow for easy insertion and movement. On a 556 that slop doesnt matter, but it can on a 22. Putting a shim in will remove the excess movement of the trip and improve reliability on a 22. Ah, I see, thank you. |
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Originally Posted By TheFaz: Cut a piece of soda can, bend it and shove it inside the cam. Most cams have the slot for the trip oversize to allow for easy insertion and movement. On a 556 that slop doesnt matter, but it can on a 22. Putting a shim in will remove the excess movement of the trip and improve reliability on a 22. Interesting. I will keep that in mind. I actually just sent my SS back to super safety shop for them to inspect. I emailed them a week or so ago about the issues I was having and they wanted to parts back to inspect so they could either replace or refund me. Guess I will see how that goes. |
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| I’m sure that I’ve posted this previously…read this thread from start to finish and it will answer a lot of questions about what does and doesn’t work for .22’s. |
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I don’t have a 22 kit set up, but I’ve researched it for awhile. This achieved thread was pretty informative. It has a Google sheet of set ups that are confirmed to work. But it seems there’s not a perfect formula. https://www.ar15.com/forums/ar-15/-ARCHIVED-THREAD-Rare-Breed-FRT-15-in-dedicated-22LR-AR15-and-Bore-Buddy-weights/15-765172/? |
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I got my 22 LR running this morning with a Super Safety. Palmetto State lower Hoffman Super Safety from URSASEC Bore Buddy complete upper Bore Buddy Super Safety kit (tuning weights and trip) 25rd Kriss AR22 Magazines It runs quite well with CCI Mini Mags. I will try to get it tuned for subsonics later, as well as setting up a second upper for my FRT-15 L3, also with Bore Buddy components. I am occasionally getting malfunctions on the first round: The first round fires, loads a second round, and then dead trigger on a struck rim. It only happens on the second round in the magazine. Any thoughts on this? |
Joined:
Nov 2022
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EE: 100% (16)
SD, USA
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I got my 22 LR running this morning with a Super Safety. Palmetto State lower Hoffman Super Safety from URSASEC Bore Buddy complete upper Bore Buddy Super Safety kit (tuning weights and trip) 25rd Kriss AR22 Magazines It runs quite well with CCI Mini Mags. I will try to get it tuned for subsonics later, as well as setting up a second upper for my FRT-15 L3, also with Bore Buddy components. I am occasionally getting malfunctions on the first round: The first round fires, loads a second round, and then dead trigger on a struck rim. It only happens on the second round in the magazine. Any thoughts on this? What barrel length and what combo of weights are you using? Congrats and thanks!! |
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I am using a GMR super safety with the .22 kit they sell with the anti bounce weight and trip. I had to use some epoxy to mold the catch on the anti bounce weight because it broke. I noticed the latest one’s they sell have a metal insert in that same spot now. Anyway it works perfect now. Also that broke before I even took it out to test it. Going to get a metal anti bounce kit in the near future, but this one is working great for now. Bought the trigger already modded from them and used the printed “trip” or whatever it’s called. Used all the weights in the anti bounce weight. Put it all in my dedicated .22 CMMG 16 inch upper on my Anderson lower. Did not have to modify the lower at all, it dropped right in and worked. First trip out I burned through 200 rounds without a hitch. Shot a hundred rounds of CCI AR rimfire, and a hundred rounds of federal bulk pack. All ran like clockwork through the gun. Was using CMMG magazines in the gun. |
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USA
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Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: What barrel length and what combo of weights are you using? Congrats and thanks!! Originally Posted By Dakota_Don: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I got my 22 LR running this morning with a Super Safety. Palmetto State lower Hoffman Super Safety from URSASEC Bore Buddy complete upper Bore Buddy Super Safety kit (tuning weights and trip) 25rd Kriss AR22 Magazines It runs quite well with CCI Mini Mags. I will try to get it tuned for subsonics later, as well as setting up a second upper for my FRT-15 L3, also with Bore Buddy components. I am occasionally getting malfunctions on the first round: The first round fires, loads a second round, and then dead trigger on a struck rim. It only happens on the second round in the magazine. Any thoughts on this? What barrel length and what combo of weights are you using? Congrats and thanks!! 12 inch barrel and a Warlock II silencer, and I was using the stainless weight with no internal weights. |
Who here is using a FRT with a 22LR. What is your setup? (Page 1 of 11)
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