AR Sponsor
Posted: 9/5/2025 11:44:47 PM EDT
|
Zeroing the optic on my 10.5" pistol. First time firing an AR-pistol of any kind, although I do have SBRs. Everything was fine and I was having so much fun that I wished I would have bought more ammo. Had been firing 55 grain brass FMJ, ran out and put in a mag of 55 gr steel cased. First round fine, second round FTF. Cleared it, fired the next round, then click and the CH wouldn't budge. Mortared it and the CH came back, but the fired case was still in, but slightly out of battery. I tried tapping the case out from the muzzle end and it didn't budge. Now I'm concerned that there might be a squib in there too. So, suggestions or thoughts to clear it (other than a new barrel?) |
"An age of glory passed like a lightning flash. The mandate of heaven passed from you but you didn't see. Times change and power passes. It is the pity of the world."
Song dynasty poet
Song dynasty poet
| I have a barrel that doesnt like wolf steel. Not sure if chamber has a texture that's rough, or a little tight. Heck maybe both. I just tapped hard enough to get them out and after a few times of that I just don't run steel in that gun anymore. Can you measure haw far a rod is going in and see where it is on the outside. |
|
Any information on the configuration would help, like what barrel brand and what is it chambered for (.223 / 5.56 / .223 Wylde). Also what brand of steel case ammunition? Steel case ammunition generally won't expand like brass case, so with less expansion you can get more fouling around the casing. An observation that I have seen on the range is a lot of stuck cases on the Wolf Polyformance ammunition after inserting the ammo into a hot chamber where the coating on the casing tends to melt, and when things are allowed to cool down with the ammo still in the chamber we see stuck cases. I would suggest soaking the barrel with some Kroil, put some liberally down the muzzle so it goes rearward and will creep around a possible bullet but especially the stuck casing. Then apply some Kroil from the back of the barrel through the ejection port and underside of the magazine well, as this will help go around the bolt lugs and stuck casing in the chamber. Let it soak for a day. Then using either a wood dowel, small diameter brass or steel rod, or cleaning rod that you insert through the muzzle, gently tap with a small hammer rearward and this tapping should help push things rearward. You can also try shocking it with throwing it in the deep freeze or using some type of freeze spray, and then you can also heat it to expand things. Once you get the stuck case out, I would suggest that you give the chamber a thorough cleaning using a good solvent and chamber brush, once clean swab it out with some denatured alcohol to make sure there is no solvent left, then inspect the chamber for any deformities. I would also suggest you check the headspace to make sure things are in spec to be on the safe side. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer SLR15 Rifles Defensive Edge Training (763) 712-0123 |
|
Originally Posted By sully: Any information on the configuration would help, like what barrel brand and what is it chambered for (.223 / 5.56 / .223 Wylde). Also what brand of steel case ammunition? Steel case ammunition generally won't expand like brass case, so with less expansion you can get more fouling around the casing. An observation that I have seen on the range is a lot of stuck cases on the Wolf Polyformance ammunition after inserting the ammo into a hot chamber where the coating on the casing tends to melt, and when things are allowed to cool down with the ammo still in the chamber we see stuck cases. I would suggest soaking the barrel with some Kroil, put some liberally down the muzzle so it goes rearward and will creep around a possible bullet but especially the stuck casing. Then apply some Kroil from the back of the barrel through the ejection port and underside of the magazine well, as this will help go around the bolt lugs and stuck casing in the chamber. Let it soak for a day. Then using either a wood dowel, small diameter brass or steel rod, or cleaning rod that you insert through the muzzle, gently tap with a small hammer rearward and this tapping should help push things rearward. You can also try shocking it with throwing it in the deep freeze or using some type of freeze spray, and then you can also heat it to expand things. Once you get the stuck case out, I would suggest that you give the chamber a thorough cleaning using a good solvent and chamber brush, once clean swab it out with some denatured alcohol to make sure there is no solvent left, then inspect the chamber for any deformities. I would also suggest you check the headspace to make sure things are in spec to be on the safe side. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer SLR15 Rifles Defensive Edge Training (763) 712-0123 First, thanks for trying to help. Pretty sure it's Monarch steel .223, which worked fine in my CL and nitride bbls. Not so much in my stainless, .223 Wylde 10.5" carbine bbl. The stainless bbl was flawless with about 100 rounds of Fiocchi brass. Only a 25 yard range, but it was one ragged 10 round hole. Then put in a mag of steel case, chambered a round and the first round fired and ejected. Second round of steel case a failure to feed. I cleared it, put that round off to the side, chambered another round of steel which fired, but did not eject. A cleaning rod went down about 10" down in the barrel which made me think that the round is still in the case, although the primer has a deep indentation. That's were things sits now with the case slightly out of battery and maybe the bullet in the case. I picked up some Kroil and a brass rod. I'll soak it tonight and see what happens. Again, thats for the help. @sully |
"An age of glory passed like a lightning flash. The mandate of heaven passed from you but you didn't see. Times change and power passes. It is the pity of the world."
Song dynasty poet
Song dynasty poet
Thanks everyone, got it out with Kroil, a rubber mallet, a chunk of wood and a brass rod from the local hobby shop (none of the local chain hardware stores had anything close in size.) Luckily it was just the case and not a spent round stuck in there too. It was Tula after all.  Attached File Attached File Attached File I don't have a super spyglass, but the chamber looked OK. I ran a couple of patches through it and dropped a brass round in the chamber by hand. It went in smoothly and dropped it. I don't want to chamber a round until I can get to the range again. |
"An age of glory passed like a lightning flash. The mandate of heaven passed from you but you didn't see. Times change and power passes. It is the pity of the world."
Song dynasty poet
Song dynasty poet
  Excellent that you got it out with a little Kroil and some coaxing by tapping it out with a brass rod. The pics of the removed fired casing you show, it looks to have a ring formed around it about 1/2" from the back end. This ring isn't normal. If you have cleaned the chamber, I would suggest looking down the back of the barrel, using a flashlight, and see if you can find any deformations like a ring that is machined in the chamber. The chamber walls should be smooth with no deformations or rings cut into it. Usually if we see stuck casings, and upon removal we see rings on the fired case, it is generally due to either a badly machined chamber, and most often happens from someone spinning a chamber brush on a drill (No power tools are needed for cleaning). If the chamber is deformed with a ring or scratches, see if you can possibly get a pic of it on camera and post it here. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" WeaponsArmorer SLR15 Rifles Defensive Edge Training (763) 712-0123 |
AR Sponsor