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Simple fix for the rear takedown detent spring blues.... (Page 6 of 6)
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Originally Posted By JoshAston:
You do realize that the barrel, barrel nut, takedown pin, pivot pin, hammer pin, trigger pin, hammer, trigger, hammer spring, trigger spring, endplate, castle nut, pistol grip screw, takedown pin detent, pivot pin detent, takedown pin detent spring, pivot pin detent spring, safety, safety detent, safety detent spring, ejection port door, ejection port door rod, ejection port door spring, forward assist, forward assist spring, forward assist roll pin, magazine release, magazine release spring, bolt catch, bolt catch plunger, and bolt catch spring are all steel parts against aluminum right? Originally Posted By JoshAston:
Originally Posted By freeport56:
[font=Times New Roman]What about the Electrolysis between the two metals? Will the steel dissolve the aluminum ?[/font=Times New Roman] You do realize that the barrel, barrel nut, takedown pin, pivot pin, hammer pin, trigger pin, hammer, trigger, hammer spring, trigger spring, endplate, castle nut, pistol grip screw, takedown pin detent, pivot pin detent, takedown pin detent spring, pivot pin detent spring, safety, safety detent, safety detent spring, ejection port door, ejection port door rod, ejection port door spring, forward assist, forward assist spring, forward assist roll pin, magazine release, magazine release spring, bolt catch, bolt catch plunger, and bolt catch spring are all steel parts against aluminum right? The bold portion is not quite true. You really should Alodine the bare aluminum and put some epoxy primer (MIL-PRF-23377) on the set screw and install with the primer wet to return the assembly to (almost) the original level of corrosion resistance. The original design has all aluminum surfaces hard coat anodized. Hard anodizing prevents actual contact between the aluminum and the steel, as the anodized surface is actually an anodic layer of non-conductive aluminum oxide. Since the anodized layer is non-conductive, there is no electrical connection between the steel and aluminum and therefore no galvanic corrosion. Further, the aluminum oxide layer is extremely corrosion resistant by itself. Theoretically, removing the anodizing and leaving bare aluminum will restore the electrical bond between the steel and aluminum, but in order for there to be galvanic corrosion you will need an electrolyte. I doubt most of us will have our rifle sitting in a wet environment for days at a time, but that is why this is not approved by the military. (Installing the set screw with wet primer on it makes an electrical insulative barrier, and chromate conversion coating, aka Alodine, is a coating that forms a strong passive oxide layer on bare aluminum, but does not create an insulating barrier, it is used often as it is a simple paint-on application.) |
BOOM! confetti.
Didn't have time to do them all but wanted to get one done so my beater 5.45 AR was the first victim. Went well except I forgot to buy/find a small enough hex key so I had to use a small screw driver. I look forward to doing the rest. |
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Originally Posted By wjbaker1:
Great idea...but do you know how hard it was to find a 4-40 set screw? Nobody in 3 towns had them, I tried every hardware and auto parts store including ACE, Home Depot, Lowe's, and NAPA. I finally found some stainless 4-40 set screws, but I had to buy a pack of 100. So, since I have extras, if anyone needs some, contact me. My email is through Yahoo. Bill. 4-40 set screws are very common I the r/c hobby. Find a good hobby store and I'm sure you'll find them. |
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Originally Posted By jarhead13:
4-40 set screws are very common I the r/c hobby. Find a good hobby store and I'm sure you'll find them. Originally Posted By jarhead13:
Originally Posted By wjbaker1:
Great idea...but do you know how hard it was to find a 4-40 set screw? Nobody in 3 towns had them, I tried every hardware and auto parts store including ACE, Home Depot, Lowe's, and NAPA. I finally found some stainless 4-40 set screws, but I had to buy a pack of 100. So, since I have extras, if anyone needs some, contact me. My email is through Yahoo. Bill. 4-40 set screws are very common I the r/c hobby. Find a good hobby store and I'm sure you'll find them. I'm lucky enough to live near a Fastenal store. I bought a pack of 100. I now have a kit I'll take with me when I visit buddies and they can do their guns in return for a beer or a meal. I'm sure I'll come out on top! |
I've seen this posted before but for those of you with no access to a store that sells 4-40 x 1/8' socket screws, you can buy a kit for under $6 on Amazon. |
Have a general question regarding the set screw itself...
I found the hardened type at a R/C hobby shop and have it installed in my rifle at the moment but I was thinking of checking the local Ace hardware or Fastenal for a stainless screw. I bought a tube of anti-sieze, supposedly good for aluminum heads at the local auto parts store, but I noticed it has graphite in it. Seem to recall graphite being on the "do not use this grease if..." list. Think this anti-sieze would be fine considering how little of the grease would actually be used? If I can't find the stainless screw and keep the one that's currently installed, will something like the Mobil 1 grease do the trick? Thanks in advance... |
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I've done several of my lowers, and think it's a great/easy mod. The only thing that worries me is that I don't have any experience besides these mods using a tap this small, so I'm starting to get worried and wonder just how many lowers a 4-40 tap can do before it accumulates enough micro-fractures to snap off in the hole. Just sayin'. |
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Originally Posted By kaos:
I've done several of my lowers, and think it's a great/easy mod. The only thing that worries me is that I don't have any experience besides these mods using a tap this small, so I'm starting to get worried and wonder just how many lowers a 4-40 tap can do before it accumulates enough micro-fractures to snap off in the hole. Just sayin'. I did 6 with a tap I had until it did this. |
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Originally Posted By harleyms:
I found the set screws at Fastenal.....had to buy a pack of 100, so after a buddy and I did all ours I now have about 90 left. Anyone need some? lol I'll take 10! Just throw in an envelope. I'll pp you a buck. |
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Whew, I've read through all 11 pages! us-kiwi posted a link for set screws, and after reading the concerns about steel/stainless/aluminum, I spotted these: Plastic Nonmarring Flat Point Set Screws
Described as "Made of nylon, these screws offer chemical resistance at an economical price. They also have a flat point that minimizes surface damage. All have a Class 2A thread fit. Temperature range is –40° to 185° F. Color is off-white." they come in a 100-pack for $5.46. Opinions? |
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Originally Posted By Gator84: Whew, I've read through all 11 pages! us-kiwi posted a link for set screws, and after reading the concerns about steel/stainless/aluminum, I spotted these: Plastic Nonmarring Flat Point Set Screws Described as "Made of nylon, these screws offer chemical resistance at an economical price. They also have a flat point that minimizes surface damage. All have a Class 2A thread fit. Temperature range is –40° to 185° F. Color is off-white." they come in a 100-pack for $5.46. Opinions? I have zero knowledge of this nylon product, and it's been a while since I had first hand experience with plastics in general that I had long enough to worry about, but it'd be something I thought about if I was to use some of these. I'm not an expert, and I don't want anyone thinking I'm trying to be one. |
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I have 50 of the stainless 4-40 set screws left over if anyone needs a few, send me an IM and I will send them out
Now please don't ask for all 50 lol, just a few please so I can share with others They are stainless so use a good grease to prevent galling but I haven't had an issue with them nor do I mind that they are bright steel colored and not black. 
I get most of my spare parts from mcmaster as I have an account there and have 100`s of extra pins and set screws for the AR series of rifles and it ends up making me build more rifles but I never have to worry about a small part missing. I also have a few hundred of the 1/8th inch ball bearings as well |
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Originally Posted By WHITE_WOLFE:
The stuff you gun nuts worry about amazes me.  
ETA: I have done this to all my ARs.  My brother and I have done all our lowers years ago no issues.
There was a guy on the EE that use to sell a kit with tap, screws, hex and LPK instructions on cdrom and a derlin block that really helps with the trigger guard roll pin and mag catch install. |
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Originally Posted By ArmyInfantryVet:
Should any kind of oil be applied to the newly cut threads? I am wondering if you expose the metal under the finish, it would need some kind of corrosion protection? 
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Originally Posted By MDStroup:
How am i just now hearing about this? I am probably now going to have to do this to mine when i build it. But does anyone know where to get this "swak" that was mentioned in the first post? Make sure to CLEAN OUT THE HOLE after tapping it. Since I used "high end cutting fluid" (I think it was 3-in-1 oil  ) to tap my holes, all I did was squirt some solvent in to help the tiny chips flow out. I followed that up with Slick 2000's 725 Degreaser, and then some gun oil. No chatter or galling.
Don't worry about an "anti-seize" compound; you just want to make the setscrew slide over fresh threads in the lower. The only thing a thicker material than oil would help with is helping keep the setscrew from falling out as you start it in the hole. |
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| A doubled up pipe cleaner run through the hole will clean things out nicely. Once it reaches the takedown hole, just bend the end slightly and you'll be able run it all the way through without having to pull the debris out the back. |
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Originally Posted By Maxx702:
Great mod. Seems like how it should have been designed in the first place. |
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Since I'm sure several folks have recently purchased stripped lowers, I figured I'd give this a bump. Also, if you're looking for an excellent video on building a receiver, look no further. https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_4/615304_Step-by-step-video-on-how-to-build-your-lower-receiver.html |
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Originally Posted By Repairman_Jack:
Time for a bump.
Thanks |
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Originally Posted By logan10:
I get bored easily. Think I'll do a few. On page 1 the OP states using a ".5mm" allen. The driver is marked ".050" [inches]. I assume it's .050". Is there enough metal and has anyone drill an access port through the end plate so that if you need to remove, etc the takedown pin, there's an easy access or is it (end plate) needed to remain solid because the new threads are too small to guarantee securing the set screw? I'm aware of the cool alternative method of removing the takedown pin. Just wnodering if what I attempted to describe has been done, is it doable or, shut the hell up with your stupid ideas?
Thanks I don’t see a big problem with drilling through the end plate so you can get at the setscrew, but I’ve never run into an issue where that was needed. |
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Originally Posted By GHPorter:
The correct Allen key for #4 setscrews is indeed 0.050”. I don’t see a big problem with drilling through the end plate so you can get at the setscrew, but I’ve never run into an issue where that was needed. |
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Originally Posted By Plumber576: I'm lucky enough to live near a Fastenal store. I bought a pack of 100. I now have a kit I'll take with me when I visit buddies and they can do their guns in return for a beer or a meal. I'm sure I'll come out on top!
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I’ve done this on several lowers, and it’s pretty simple, as long as you go slowly.
I don’t swap out receiver extensions on a routine basis, but that detent spring is sometimes a bear to keep straight while you’re installing the end plate. If I have a helper, that makes the receiver extension installation easier, but the set screw mod definitively manages that issue nicely. |
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Aaaannnddd.... it is still being discussed in various places. Guess with the 'rona we're all kinda bored. But yes, good mod. Someone posted about 6 years ago about guesstimating the right amount of spring. I've just ordered my tap and screws 'cause I had issues with 2 take down pins on 2 lowers, involving the spring pushing too much on the detent and pin. My solution to that is that I'll be tapping a little deeper, and trimming the spring a little shorter and just increasing pressure by screwing in more.... |
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I do this on every lower I own/build these days. I also have gone to threaded SS pins for the FA and bolt catch. All little details that make your build stand out. Plus when you really want to tear them down for a dip in the ultrasonic its so much easier. For this mod in particular though I have found trimming the spring roughly the same length as the set screw works fine for me. Remember when you trim a spring you actually increase its rate. I have thought about taping to hole deeper to allow some room for adjustment but so far haven't found it necessary. |
Simple fix for the rear takedown detent spring blues.... (Page 6 of 6)
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