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Posted: 4/18/2026 5:48:13 PM EDT
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Have a surefire DF Light (non turbo) with the updated head and UEE tail cap and I'm still noticing some flickering when paired with the ST-07 pressure switch. Are there any remote switches that don't have the flickering or dimming issue? I don't want to go back to the clicky cap because I want to keep the light control ambi. |
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Same here. I have had great luck with the unity USB-C interface. But if you look at the other thread at the top of this subforum, others have had issues. Im sure one of them will be in here shortly to call "bullshit" on those of us who haven't had issues, but we shall see 
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Small update here, I just received an Arisaka 18350 build-a-bear kit with an OKW V2 head and Gascap/Axon. There is a slight... slight hit to brightness using the remote switch. Still no flickering so far. Also as the battery gets low, the head steps down to the admin mode brightness faster with the remote switch vs the tailcap. Ex: with a lower battery using the remote, you may get three seconds of bright before it steps down, where as then immediately using the tailcap, you might get 8 seconds of full bright before stepping down to the admin mode. I put the PLH V2 on it, and same thing. So I'm guessing the combination of a single 18350 and a high lumen head, you may see some differences, but truly minimal with a fresh battery. I still like the Modlite heads' versatility to be used with anything but a single CR123. |
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Couldnt find a switch that worked for me with my SF light. Ended up just going back to the button on the tail cap. Its disappointing, especially since I havent seen this issue in so many other light brands. Even my holosun Raid light switch is more reliable to the SF. |
"I do not love the bright sword for its sharpness, nor the arrow for its swiftness, nor the warrior for his glory. I love only that which they defend."
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There is zero visually detectable performance loss on either of my surefire turbos (18650 and 18350) with the Gascap/Axon. These have intense hotspots obviously, but less spill and therefore only ~650 total lumens I think, so probably less peak current drain than the Modlites. |
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Apparently, there's a few things happening, says Google. First, some guys claim dielectric grease cured all ills. Secondly, the dual fuel hogs out the flashlight body for two different battery sizes, which causes CR123 batteries to micro bounce on recoil, since they're skinnier, and the fix for that is to use a battery sleeve on CR123 batteries, or switch to an 18650. Either way, here's how to apply the dielectric grease: Tailcap and Body Threads: Apply a very thin layer to the threads. The mechanical force of screwing the cap on tightly forces the grease out of the thread mating surfaces, keeping the ground path intact [1].Remote Switch Plugs: Apply a light coat to the O-rings and the plug body. Inserting the plug into the tailcap creates enough friction to clear the actual metal pins while leaving a protective, vibration-dampening seal around them.Battery Terminals (Use Caution): Avoid thick globs on the flat ends of the battery. If you have battery bounce or weak spring tension, a thick layer of non-conductive grease can act as a wedge and block the current entirely. Only use a micro-micro drop rubbed flat with a Q-tip on the terminal if you need corrosion resistance. EDIT: Here's more to potentially address: Clean the Anodizing Off the ThreadsSurefire often coats body threads with thick anodizing (especially on Flat Dark Earth models). Grab a piece of Scotch-Brite or a wire brush and clean the raw, unthreaded rim at the very end of the flashlight body where it meets the inside of the tailcap. This ensures a clean metal-to-metal ground path.4. The Ultimate Upgrade FixIf you want to permanently solve tape switch flickering on a high-power weaponlight without messing with grease, swap your tailcap setup for a Unity Tactical GASCAP or switch to a high-amperage Modlite ModButton. These modern systems use heavy-duty Link System cables that lock tightly into place, completely eliminating the loose plug connections that cause legacy Surefire switches to blink. |
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