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Posted: 4/29/2019 1:53:38 PM EDT
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So doing my first build I saw a couple of vids using Permatex anti seize on the upper threads, barrel extension and barrel nut. It seemed like a lot from the vids butI followed the instructions. Now I find trying to wipe the excess off is ineffective and bore scrubber is only marginally effective. Whats the best way to remove this stuff?
Thanks Dave |
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Quoted:
So doing my first build I saw a couple of vids using Permatex anti seize on the upper threads, barrel extension and barrel nut. It seemed like a lot from the vids butI followed the instructions. Now I find trying to wipe the excess off is ineffective and bore scrubber is only marginally effective. Whats the best way to remove this stuff? Thanks Dave Next time use grease, not Anti Seize |
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apply brakleen, loosen it up with a toothbrush, then rinse with brakleen.
I use brakleen (chlorinated) so much, I try to collect the used spray brakleen with a can, (tuna, soup, whatever, as a backstop), then pour it into a quart paint can. use that as my quick-n-dirty solvent bath. the sediment collects at the bottom. |
| I go fairly liberally with grease and lightly with anti-seize. Very messy and stinky stuff. I normally run the nut up a few times without a barrel (unless it has a fsb) and wipe most of the excess away before final install. Sometimes I'll use whatever's handy like an old shoe lace and run it on top and bottom. |
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yes I have learned, too bad it was with good components and not cheap parts. Quoted:
You have learned a valuable lesson Grasshopper. 1 pencil point spot of Anti-Seize WILL turn into the damndest mess you've ever seen in yer life. 
If you view it from across the room, it will wind up in yer ears and up yer taint. |
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Since its torqued up perfect and Im almost done with the build I was just going to clean it up without removing the barrel. Leaving the anti-seize on the threads is a no no? Quoted: It won't hurt anything, it is just messy, just clean things up and do over with couple of small dabs of grease and you will be good to go. |
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Ive actually been reading that since Permatex has Graphite in it, it will harm the upper receiver.....another lesson learned....damn From Permatex web site / description: A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant ? ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E. Aerosol – Level 3* |
| I've used Permatex anti-sieze on 4 builds now. Largely because I have it on hand, but it's really no more messy than any other grease. You don't need to use a lot, just a tiny dab on the end of the thread. I use moly D at work quite frequently and it's just as messy, and it absolutely reeks. I used Lubriplate 130A on a build I did a few years ago and it's still chugging along just fine. |
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The most interesting thing that I'm seeing in these grease threads is the amount used by some. Some say only a dab and others (like me) use quite a bit more than a dab, more like 10 or 20 dabs.
I've found that I get better results aligning the barrel nut for the gas tube (while staying within the torque specs) if I use more grease on the upper receiver threads, and especially the forward facing side of the barrel extension flange. |
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Quoted:
The most interesting thing that I'm seeing in these grease threads is the amount used by some. Some say only a dab and others (like me) use quite a bit more than a dab, more like 10 or 20 dabs.
I've found that I get better results aligning the barrel nut for the gas tube (while staying within the torque specs) if I use more grease on the upper receiver threads, and especially the forward facing side of the barrel extension flange. |
I use an acid brush trimmed short to apply grease to upper threads.
I get enough on the threads that it's visible, plus a little. It usually looks like I've sort of "filled in" the very bottom of the threads' valleys. It helps to be able to mate the barrel nut and the upper before installing the nut on the barrel, but if you don't want to do that, just apply a little grease inside the nut as well - aim for the deepest part of the nut. I also get a bit on the flat surface at the bottom of the nut, where it will ride on the barrel's flange. The grease is supposed to make the parts slide on each other. The Technical Manual calls for tightening the nut to 30 ft/lb torque three times before trying to align the notch for the gas tube, but it can take more tries than that. If you apply the grease INTO the threads, it helps it spread more evenly, making it less likely you'll have to go past three tries. |
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Quoted:
apply brakleen, loosen it up with a toothbrush, then rinse with brakleen. I use brakleen (chlorinated) so much, I try to collect the used spray brakleen with a can, (tuna, soup, whatever, as a backstop), then pour it into a quart paint can. use that as my quick-n-dirty solvent bath. the sediment collects at the bottom. I too like to live dangerously. |
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I use a small dab of Lucas red and tacky on the threads. It's not rocket science. Your just preventing the threads from rusting into each other over time and binding. A very small amount is needed. If any.. Grease is used to help achieve proper torque value. |
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Quoted:
This is the only thing you should be using... FYI, for those who don't know 64 is the new name for 33MS. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/516YiYlwQkL._SX466_.jpg 
There are a lot of quality grease that fits the bill, hell we didn't even use it in the armory when I was in the service. |
Priceless
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You do realize, that just happen to be the cheapest bid when the DOD requested bids right? DoD buys in large enough bulk that it really doesn’t matter who made X as long as it conforms to specs. But major aircraft manufacturers and commercial maintainers also buy in quantity, so AeroShell sells well everywhere. There are a number of producers of MIL-G 2164 greases that most people have never heard of before, like Royco and Nyco. |
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Quoted:
Actually, AeroShell 64 (or 33MS) is just one of a large number of greases that meet the requirements of MIL-G 21164. DoD buys in large enough bulk that it really doesn’t matter who made X as long as it conforms to specs. But major aircraft manufacturers and commercial maintainers also buy in quantity, so AeroShell sells well everywhere. There are a number of producers of MIL-G 2164 greases that most people have never heard of before, like Royco and Nyco. |
| When I was a fitter helper never ceasing studs and nuts for pipe flanges, My supervisor asked me if I knew how many containers of never cease it took to paint a house?. I said no, and shaking a finger at me he said ONE!!! Lesson learned. and Time is the only thing that really makes it go away. |
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Quoted: You do realize, that just happen to be the cheapest bid when the DOD requested bids right?
There are a lot of quality grease that fits the bill, hell we didn't even use it in the armory when I was in the service. And 64 is $20 for a tube that will last you for a lifetime. |
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Thanks for all the good info. In the future I will use the mil spec grease. Luckily it looks like WD40 actually removes the silver stuff from the receiver etc. I can live with that. Build is progressing now. Should have a new rifle soon! |
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Quoted:
This is the only thing you should be using... FYI, for those who don't know 64 is the new name for 33MS. https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/516YiYlwQkL._SX466_.jpg |
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Quoted:
Well, I have discovered that WD-40 takes Permatex Anti-Seize right off the surface areas of the receiver....whew! Lesson learned So, it's a cheaper source to clean Anti-Seize and probably a lot of other greases. Moly Di is another very greasy beast. |
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