Originally Posted By YWHIC:


That is not legal.  

Originally Posted By kapusta:


Anyway.. heres a sample of that idea.. this is a std 16" barrel SAIGA 308 with a BRAKE being PINNED on it..

http://www.executiveprotectionservice.us/forums/308BRAKE.JPG

I sold that Saiga recently and the buyer DID NOT care about the 'pin' or not as he was in a NORMAL state  

This is a DPMS 556 that I did recently.. I did 'weld' over the pin and made pretty with a Dremel..

http://www.executiveprotectionservice.us/forums/556/QSteelBrake.jpg

Both BRAKES used RED LocTite also on the screws and the actual barrel threading..

it 'THE LAW' wants to mess with you to the point of inspecting yout firearms THAT CLOSELY.. you are SCREWED from the gate.. IMHO..





I was thinking the same thing - Just WHEN would an inspection of your muzzle device come into play?   When and where would you be checked?  They measure the bbl. ...
ok, it's 16+inches.  What then, put a wrench on your brake and start crankin'?  OK, it won't move - get out the torch and thermometer and see if it loosens at anything less than 1100 degrees?  Grind off the device and check the pinning process?  Seems like a lot of hand-wringing about nothing.  I mean really - How would it become a concern whether you used brownells 440 soft silver solder or 1100 degree silver solder?  Methinks we worry too much.

Regarding the silver soldering, a regular propane torch probably wouldn't cut it - the heat would be soaked up by the bbl. faster than you could get it to the correct temp.  The faster you can heat it, the better - less time for the rest of the attached metal to heat up.  A large tip on an oxy-acetylene set-up would be the best bet.  Some time ago, I worked at a shop that did a lot of wholesale work for smaller shops throughout the country.  Back then, replacing bolt handles on military actions for use with scopes was a popular job.  One of the guys there did 10-15 bolts a week.  He'd just cut off the old handle, do a little grinding on the new handle and bolt to get then squared away.  Then he'd line up the 10-15 bolts with new handles propped in place and go down the line welding on the new handles.  No heat sink paste or anything.  Took him about 30 seconds a bolt and when he was done with one, you could pick up the bolt by the lug end and it would just be warm. So what that whole yarn would indicate is that a lot of heat, applied fast, is the easiest way to avoid any issues with excess heat where you don't want it.  The Mapp gas might work OK, but if available, an oxy-acetylene set-up would be the better choice.  I'd bet that a proper silver solder job would hold better than a pin.  I think you could get a pin to break before the solder gave up.

Originally Posted By WayneG:


Easiest way is to use the Fusion paste sold by Brownells.  Flux is already mixed in.  My method:

Coat threads with fusion paste, screw on FH.
Coat barrel, starting about 1/8" below the FH with Heat Stop Paste (Brownells).  This will prevent discoloration and damage to the barrel.
Coat the FH and the 1/8" section of barrel without Heat Stop with chalk, any chalk will do.  In case any solder flows onto the exposed metal this will prevent it from adhering to the surface, making clean up easy.
USE OXY MAPP vice OXY.  This will get you up to the right temperature faster so the solder flows quicker.  
Heat the area on the FH above the threads until you see the solder flow along the joint between the FH and the barrel.  
Done.