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Posted: 9/10/2026 11:40:03 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 556Cliff][Edited]
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I recently added a Bore Tech "Bore Stix" cleaning rod and "proof positive" patch loop into my collection of gun cleaning supplies, the problem is that the patches I've always used (with no issue) with my Dewey cleaning rod and patch loop are too tight to even start into the bore with the Bore Tech rod and patch loop. My patches are 1-1/4", will switching to 1-1/8" patches as recommended and sold on Bore Tech's site really make all the difference, or do I need even smaller patches? All my barrels are .223/5.56 and the rod and loop is made for that caliber of barrel... Without patches it goes through free of any resistance. |
You might consider trying these. https://store.rigelproducts.com/deofbe.html
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JAFOM.... Just another fat old man.
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JAFOM.... Just another fat old man.
________________________________
TOGC,IADC
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Originally Posted By bfoosh06: You might consider trying these. https://store.rigelproducts.com/deofbe.html https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/171545/detail-behind-benefits-16-3825352.jpg Interesting, I’ve never seen those before. Though it seems they’re geared for jag use. I’m just needing something to work with Bore Tech’s patch loop. I did go ahead and order some of Bore Tech’s 1-1/8” square patch’s, so I’ll see if that does the trick. |
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Originally Posted By Heartbreak3r: I rip my patches in half or quarters if it's too tight (I am using a jag however). This. Cut in half or get smaller loop. |
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Originally Posted By lysanderxiii: Well, you should be pulling them through . . . Absolutely. Pushing a patch/brush through a rifle barrel results in the compressive force warping the rod enough to cause it to contact the lands as it moves through the barrel. Pulling a patch/brush through the barrel if you do it right (slow and keep the rod centered) keeps the rod straight/true and you get no contact between the rod and the lands. I'd also recommend pulling the patch/brush from the chamber end to the muzzle end. Why push the crud you're trying to remove from the barrel into the chamber? I only use jags on pistol barrels where the rod is shorter and doesn't flex/bend like a rifle rod does. Also the bore on the small bore cartridges (9MM/.38/.357) is still much larger that any rifle I own/shoot. |
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Originally Posted By lysanderxiii: Well, you should be pulling them through . . . Originally Posted By lysanderxiii: Originally Posted By 556Cliff: Patches too tight to push through with Bore Tech "Bore Stix" cleaning rod and patch loop? Well, you should be pulling them through . . . I’m not the biggest expert on barrel cleaning, so I wouldn’t be surprised if I’ve been doing it wrong for the last 23 years.  I’ve always just assumed you push the rod from chamber to the muzzle (actually never seen it demonstrated any other way).
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Originally Posted By dfariswheel: One trick for tight patches is to put it on the jag or loop in one corner instead of the center of the patch. I’ll try that on the next barrel I clean. Lately I’ve just gotten in the habit of centering the patches in the loop, which has always worked with the Dewey rod and patch loop. |
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Originally Posted By 556Cliff: My patches are 1-1/4", will switching to 1-1/8" patches as recommended and sold on Bore Tech's site really make all the difference, or do I need even smaller patches? Wrong size patch and loops don't really work as well as a jag at cleaning IMO. 1 1/8th are the proper size to use with a jag and get the ones that are nickel plated. |
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Originally Posted By bpm990d: Wrong size patch and loops don't really work as well as a jag at cleaning IMO. 1 1/8th are the proper size to use with a jag and get the ones that are nickel plated. Originally Posted By bpm990d: Originally Posted By 556Cliff: My patches are 1-1/4", will switching to 1-1/8" patches as recommended and sold on Bore Tech's site really make all the difference, or do I need even smaller patches? Wrong size patch and loops don't really work as well as a jag at cleaning IMO. 1 1/8th are the proper size to use with a jag and get the ones that are nickel plated. I've considered using a jag, but I never have. My current barrel cleaning routine is to run a few wet patches down the barrel using a patch loop to get everything wet with either Bore Tech Eliminator or C4 Carbon remover, than I try to let it sit for a little while as I clean other parts of the rifle. Later after it's soaked, I'll run another wet patch or two on the loop and then I'll pass a wet brush down the barrel a few times followed by a few more wet patches on the loop. If a jag would really make a difference in the process I'd be willing to add it. Currently I'm never really happy since the patches never come out perfectly carbon free. |
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Originally Posted By 556Cliff: I’m not the biggest expert on barrel cleaning, so I wouldn’t be surprised if I’ve been doing it wrong for the last 23 years. I’ve always just assumed you push the rod from chamber to the muzzle (actually never seen it demonstrated any other way).No cleaning rod is stiff enough not to bow when pushed. If it bows, it will contact the side of the bore. Pulling put the rod in tension and keeps it straight and it does not contact the sides. I refer you to TM9-1005-319-319-10, pages 0015-1 through 0015-13 . . . |
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Originally Posted By lysanderxiii: No cleaning rod is stiff enough not to bow when pushed. If it bows, it will contact the side of the bore. Pulling put the rod in tension and keeps it straight and it does not contact the sides. I refer you to TM9-1005-319-319-10, pages 0015-1 through 0015-13 . . . Originally Posted By lysanderxiii: Originally Posted By 556Cliff: I’m not the biggest expert on barrel cleaning, so I wouldn’t be surprised if I’ve been doing it wrong for the last 23 years. I’ve always just assumed you push the rod from chamber to the muzzle (actually never seen it demonstrated any other way).No cleaning rod is stiff enough not to bow when pushed. If it bows, it will contact the side of the bore. Pulling put the rod in tension and keeps it straight and it does not contact the sides. I refer you to TM9-1005-319-319-10, pages 0015-1 through 0015-13 . . . I definitely get why they would do the pull through method with a GI sectional cleaning rod. No way I'd do that with one of those without a bore guide on the muzzle side though, that's just asking for a damaged crown. And I also agree that no cleaning rod is stiff enough to not bow when pushed (my Dewey rod does it and so does my new Bore Tech rod when things get tight). But I do wonder if it even matters if the bowing causes the rod to contact the sides of the bore? Especially in 4150 chrome lined barrels, I can't imagine that it would cause any damage. I could be wrong though and now I want to buy a bore scope. 
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"Currently I'm never really happy since the patches never come out perfectly carbon free." Don't mistake steel stains for carbon or other fouling. Running a patch through a barrel can leave stains from rubbing on the steel. To see how this works, get a piece of bare aluminum and rub your thumb on it. Your thumb will turn black. |
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Originally Posted By dfariswheel: "Currently I'm never really happy since the patches never come out perfectly carbon free." Don't mistake steel stains for carbon or other fouling. Running a patch through a barrel can leave stains from rubbing on the steel. To see how this works, get a piece of bare aluminum and rub your thumb on it. Your thumb will turn black. I am aware of that, especially with unfinished aluminum. I'm not sure how much of an issue it would be with chrome lined barrels though? |
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Update: Well, the 1-1/8" square patches I received from Bore Tech yesterday worked perfectly (not too tight, not too loose). I'll probably just stick with their patches from now on. I'll be ordering more and one of their proof positive jags. |
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