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Official Arizona Regulators triggers thread (Page 22 of 22)
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Originally Posted By EagleArmsHBAR: Does Mr AZR post anywhere these days? I miss seeing him around and am hoping he will release the burst frt trigger at some point. I don't really think so...his posting style is not exactly conducive to not getting banned. Call him, he was pretty personable last time I spoke to him. Dunno if you'll get much of an answer (I swear he was working on a .22 version before he released the 3-pos...still waiting on that), but he doesn't mind talking about his stuff. Don't really blame him, I think the AZR is the most clever/durable design you can get in a FRT. Fairly unique as far as I know wrt to how it operates. The arc-fire is great...and AS is doing some awesome stuff...but the arc-fire is an improved Atrius (ass) which is basically an "improved" SS. The AZR is all JDs as far as I know (aside from people ripping him off). |
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Originally Posted By BKenton: the arc-fire is an improved Atrius (ass) which is basically an "improved" SS. The AZR is all JDs as far as I know (aside from people ripping him off). Hardly important to AZR, but ... Arcfire and Atrius are based on the Hoffman Super Safety. The Atrius was first to market, but the solutions were developed independently and simultaneously. They exist to control a super safety with a lever v. a push button selector. |
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Not gonna lie If I don’t have a g$ trigger (paired with a AF) for a gun, it’s got an AZ reg 3 position in it. I’ve removed all but two Atrius and they’re sitting on bags with their “married” FCGs in a box with my extra dozen or so super safeties collecting dust. I’m about to install an az reg in this guy as well and then I’ll just have one Atrius left operating in the fleet. 
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Originally Posted By dredeagle: Hardly important to AZR, but ... Arcfire and Atrius are based on the Hoffman Super Safety. The Atrius was first to market, but the solutions were developed independently and simultaneously. They exist to control a super safety with a lever v. a push button selector. Didn’t know that the arc-fire was finished before the Atrius dropped. That makes the superior design of the arc-fire even more impressive imo. But yeah I did mention the Atrius was based on the SS. The arc-fire is such a step above the Atrius imo I am very surprised they didn’t have it to reference. And yeah, that’s what I was getting at saying the Atrius is an improved SS, though really…it’s a lever SS…if that is an improvement then great…but it sure is flimsy next to a SS. Edit: Looks like Atrius shipped in July ‘25 and arc fires started shipping in oct. certainly close together. |
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Originally Posted By heavyduty: I have a SIG Copperhead-K MPX 9mm SBR that I was running with a RB 3P. I never got better than 90% reliability and the trigger beat my finger up like Will Smith slapping Chris Rock, so I pulled it out - parts breakage in a MPX can really suck due to limited availability of replacements. Last week I decided to try my spare AZR 3P in it. I really had no expectation it would work, but yesterday much to my surprise after five semi rounds to test I flipped it to spicy mode and went through the remainder of the 200 rounds I had with me with absolutely no problems - no trigger slap, no dead trigger, nuttin’. The gun has a PMM trip, original springs and a ILWT reduced gas plug. Today I pulled the gun apart to clean and inspect and discovered I’m one of the people who gets peening. I suspect the upper pocket is a smidge too far forward, not enough to affect function but sufficient to get a little interference. I’m not sure if it will wear to a certain point and stop but I’m tempted to take off some of the hammer hump, refinish the parts to show future wear and see what happens. Sound about right? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/18/IMG_4327_jpeg-3775459.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/18/IMG_4326_jpeg-3775460.JPG https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/18/IMG_4328_jpeg-3775461.JPG Hammers are cheaper and less risky to modify than an FRT. Looking at the bottom arm, it looks like the hammer is “kissing” it too and I think the kissing will get worse once you dremel out the areas that are making contact with the housing now. I’d grind on the hammer if it were me. |
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Interesting situation I had today. I have a DPMS Kitty Kat upper (more fun than you would believe). Today I went to put it on a lower with an AZR (3-pos), but the "regulator" piece (what is the "official" term for that piece?) wouldn't sit flush in the upper. It is actually slightly askew, alignment-wise. It fits fine in my other uppers. I thought my upper was out of spec (DPMS after all), but then on a lark I dropped a two-position regulator in the upper and it dropped right in--perfect fit. Weapon closed and cycled without issue. Any thoughts on this conundrum? I mean, I can always just run this 2-position, but I do like 3-position. |
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Originally Posted By ScottS: Interesting situation I had today. I have a DPMS Kitty Kat upper (more fun than you would believe). Today I went to put it on a lower with an AZR (3-pos), but the "regulator" piece (what is the "official" term for that piece?) wouldn't sit flush in the upper. It is actually slightly askew, alignment-wise. It fits fine in my other uppers. I thought my upper was out of spec (DPMS after all), but then on a lark I dropped a two-position regulator in the upper and it dropped right in--perfect fit. Weapon closed and cycled without issue. Any thoughts on this conundrum? I mean, I can always just run this 2-position, but I do like 3-position. Get a caliper and measure the difference. One might just be a tight fit in need of a love tap. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Get a caliper and measure the difference. One might just be a tight fit in need of a love tap. |
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Originally Posted By TheOtherDave: Hammers are cheaper and less risky to modify than an FRT. Looking at the bottom arm, it looks like the hammer is “kissing” it too and I think the kissing will get worse once you dremel out the areas that are making contact with the housing now. I’d grind on the hammer if it were me. The hammer in my M16A1 clone was kissing the AZ Regulator and causing it to go FRT in Semi. I just ground on the top of the hammer, color it with a sharpie and then hand cycle it until none of the sharpie was being worn off by the Regulator; then refinished the top of the hammer with Brownell’s OxphoBlue. It seems to have fixed the issue. |
Did 4 tours of the Cola Wars
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Originally Posted By Willisinnawoods: The hammer in my M16A1 clone was kissing the AZ Regulator and causing it to go FRT in Semi. I just ground on the top of the hammer, color it with a sharpie and then hand cycle it until none of the sharpie was being worn off by the Regulator; then refinished the top of the hammer with Brownell’s OxphoBlue. It seems to have fixed the issue. I don’t know this to be true, but I think when JD covers this in his troubleshooting section he blames it on the upper pocket location. I’ve had to do the same for one upper. |
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So, if the gun works perfectly with the drop in two position, it should work fine with the three position? One thing I will have to do is figure out HOW to install it - yes, I am THAT guy, I have zero gunsmithing skills. It ran fine with the stock buffer, but I think I will get the Tromix just in case.
Upper and lower are standard PSA. |
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Originally Posted By armoredman: So, if the gun works perfectly with the drop in two position, it should work fine with the three position? One thing I will have to do is figure out HOW to install it - yes, I am THAT guy, I have zero gunsmithing skills. It ran fine with the stock buffer, but I think I will get the Tromix just in case. Upper and lower are standard PSA. Yeah…I have found the 3-pos to be more of a drop-in than the others (maybe not the M2); the 2-pos ones I have messed with required a good bit of material to be removed from the lower cam leg. The 3-pos literally dropped in and ran. Doesn’t seem to be the case for everyone, I have seen some people report issues…but unless things are pretty out of spec, it is hard for me to see why it would not run. The install itself is pretty simple. The hammer, trigger, disconnector and safety all install as normal, the most difficult part is installing the hammer imo…a couple videos and you should have no issues. It may look a little complicated but it is actually pretty simple. |
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Originally Posted By BKenton: Yeah…I have found the 3-pos to be more of a drop-in than the others (maybe not the M2); the 2-pos ones I have messed with required a good bit of material to be removed from the lower cam leg. The 3-pos literally dropped in and ran. Doesn’t seem to be the case for everyone, I have seen some people report issues…but unless things are pretty out of spec, it is hard for me to see why it would not run. The install itself is pretty simple. The hammer, trigger, disconnector and safety all install as normal, the most difficult part is installing the hammer imo…a couple videos and you should have no issues. It may look a little complicated but it is actually pretty simple. Originally Posted By BKenton: Originally Posted By armoredman: So, if the gun works perfectly with the drop in two position, it should work fine with the three position? One thing I will have to do is figure out HOW to install it - yes, I am THAT guy, I have zero gunsmithing skills. It ran fine with the stock buffer, but I think I will get the Tromix just in case. Upper and lower are standard PSA. Yeah…I have found the 3-pos to be more of a drop-in than the others (maybe not the M2); the 2-pos ones I have messed with required a good bit of material to be removed from the lower cam leg. The 3-pos literally dropped in and ran. Doesn’t seem to be the case for everyone, I have seen some people report issues…but unless things are pretty out of spec, it is hard for me to see why it would not run. The install itself is pretty simple. The hammer, trigger, disconnector and safety all install as normal, the most difficult part is installing the hammer imo…a couple videos and you should have no issues. It may look a little complicated but it is actually pretty simple. What he said. Just a couple tips, hook the springs onto the trigger shoe and hammer like this:  " />Ensure your disconnector spring is inserted into the trigger shoe the correct way around:  " />first install the trigger shoe (with disconnector spring and disconnector), then the selector (you may need to push down on the tail of the disconnector to let the selector past), and then the hammer. Then finally, the Regulator module when you close the receivers back up. |
It was not preached to the crowd,
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When the English began to hate.
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Originally Posted By armoredman: So, if the gun works perfectly with the drop in two position, it should work fine with the three position? One thing I will have to do is figure out HOW to install it - yes, I am THAT guy, I have zero gunsmithing skills. It ran fine with the stock buffer, but I think I will get the Tromix just in case. Upper and lower are standard PSA. Yes, if you already have an AZR 2-pos that works, the 3-pos kit should drop in. I found the Regulator device itself to be a tight fit in the sear pocket of my PSA stripped upper, but it’s the same for 2-pos and 3-pos. It does go in but needs a love tap with a soft hammer. It’s a sample of one so YMMV. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Yes, if you already have an AZR 2-pos that works, the 3-pos kit should drop in. I found the Regulator device itself to be a tight fit in the sear pocket of my PSA stripped upper, but it's the same for 2-pos and 3-pos. It does go in but needs a love tap with a soft hammer. It's a sample of one so YMMV. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: What he said. Just a couple tips, hook the springs onto the trigger shoe and hammer like this: https://i.imgur.com/NBs6kyS.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/NBs6kyS.jpeg Ensure your disconnector spring is inserted into the trigger shoe the correct way around: https://i.imgur.com/xI7ki7k.jpeg" target="_blank">https://i.imgur.com/xI7ki7k.jpeg first install the trigger shoe (with disconnector spring and disconnector), then the selector (you may need to push down on the tail of the disconnector to let the selector past), and then the hammer. Then finally, the Regulator module when you close the receivers back up. Good stuff One thing I might add- use a slave pin for the trigger and disco. If you’re not used to installing FCGs this will make your life exponentially more pleasant 
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Originally Posted By Willisinnawoods: The hammer in my M16A1 clone was kissing the AZ Regulator and causing it to go FRT in Semi. I just ground on the top of the hammer, color it with a sharpie and then hand cycle it until none of the sharpie was being worn off by the Regulator; then refinished the top of the hammer with Brownell’s OxphoBlue. It seems to have fixed the issue. Exactly what I did (or close enough.) I haven’t been able to get back to the range to test. |
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Originally Posted By BKenton: I don’t know this to be true, but I think when JD covers this in his troubleshooting section he blames it on the upper pocket location. I’ve had to do the same for one upper. Originally Posted By BKenton: I don’t know this to be true, but I think when JD covers this in his troubleshooting section he blames it on the upper pocket location. I’ve had to do the same for one upper. His design is definitely more susceptible to tolerance stacking issues than say a cassette style FRT; location and size of sear pocket, location and size of FCG pin holes, variance in profile between hammers etc. It could all stack up to potentially cause an issue, but at least it seems like there’s a work-around to any issue that might arise. Originally Posted By heavyduty: Exactly what I did (or close enough.) I haven’t been able to get back to the range to test. That rifle has been the only of the 3 I have his trigger installed in so far that had exhibited that issue, and it seems to have solved it for me. |
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Originally Posted By ScottS: As you can see from my post a few above, I just had the exact opposite experience. The 3-pos "regulator" does not drop into the upper. It won't sit flat into the "pocket" in the upper. I was convinced the upper was just out of spec, but the 2-pos "regulator" dropped right into the upper and runs without issue. I'm still trying to figure this one out. So I have experienced this, but with a MBT 2-pos. I really don’t think this particular issue can occur anymore often whether 2/3-pos. Did you try other uppers? I found it was very close to fitting, the one it was worst in was the one I wanted to put in, colt m5 upper. |
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Originally Posted By Willisinnawoods: His design is definitely more susceptible to tolerance stacking issues than say a cassette style FRT; location and size of sear pocket, location and size of FCG pin holes, variance in profile between hammers etc. It could all stack up to potentially cause an issue, but at least it seems like there’s a work-around to any issue that might arise. That rifle has been the only of the 3 I have his trigger installed in so far that had exhibited that issue, and it seems to have solved it for me. That’s fair. I think it’s worth noting that if your rifle is in spec you should not really have issues…but shit happens. Your second point is one of the strengths of the system imo. You can pretty much fix anything. And you can fuck it up a few times before there is not a configuration it’ll run in. And then you can weld some back on and try again…it’s reasonably idiot proof. Source: idiot. |
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Originally Posted By BKenton: So I have experienced this, but with a MBT 2-pos. I really don't think this particular issue can occur anymore often whether 2/3-pos. Did you try other uppers? I found it was very close to fitting, the one it was worst in was the one I wanted to put in, colt m5 upper. |
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Originally Posted By HKH: I wonder if a 3 rd burst kit for the regulator would be popular (if it existed)? Or would everyone prefer the third position to be rock and roll. JD was talking about a burst mechanism at least 8 months ago. I’d love one for some of my clones, though now the ones that have Burst markings already have CARLs. I’d certainly buy at least one. JD was first to the market with a three position, clone appropriate FRT. but now the field is a lot more crowded. |
It was not preached to the crowd,
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
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Originally Posted By HKH: I wonder if a 3 rd burst kit for the regulator would be popular (if it existed)? Or would everyone prefer the third position to be rock and roll. Its been over 20 years since ive used a 3rd burst but I remember it sucking because by the time you manage the recoil its past 3rds. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: JD was talking about a burst mechanism at least 8 months ago. I’d love one for some of my clones, though now the ones that have Burst markings already have CARLs. I’d certainly buy at least one. JD was first to the market with a three position, clone appropriate FRT. but now the field is a lot more crowded. I refresh his product page for it every now and then hoping for an update. Currently it says something about some blanks that became unavailable and having to work on an alternative. |
Did 4 tours of the Cola Wars
| I really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really really wished JD would drop a AZR10 for the large frames!!!! |
If a 147 grn 9mm at 1000 FPS is the hammer of Thor then a 165 grn. 40 at 1200 fps must a lightening bolt from Zeus!
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Based on this thread, I bought the three position AZR15A1 complete with trigger, pins, springs, safety, etc. I had been holding off and reading all the things before I decided on this one. Built in AZ, and guaranteed to work, were the final selling points. I did look long and hard at some of the drop in cartridge triggers, but this is more my style. I had to sort between rifles for which would fit, and which trigger I could live without for a while. I picked a Bushmaster SBR with a G2S. Although I have built over 30 lowers, it had been a few years....  First I installed the hammer spring wrong three times, and that is with a properly installed one laying right beside it, and I had my glasses on. Next I installed the sear with the short pin I had on hand and installed the trigger spring.....wrong... Proper direction, but the loop was not high enough.After straightening out my bent learning curve, this install would have taken all of 10 minutes, error free. I oiled things up, and replaced my carrier with a full auto style that I had in my parts bin. It passes bench testing just fine. The safety is among the stiffest one I have ever encountered. It is starting to break in, but I may need to shorten the detent spring or mod the detent at some point. The trigger on the first position seems to operate like a two stage. A decent amount of take up until the wall and then a little more and click. It is not advertised as a two stage, but seems to feel like one. Not a great two stage, but good enough. I should have hit the indoor range yesterday on old-people-discount day, but didn't feel like seeing if they have upgraded the shitty HVAC of the previous owners on a record heat day. Maybe next Monday. The outdoor county range made a new rule just for me in the old binary trigger days, so if I test my FRT there, I may be ban-in-nated forever. |
Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Originally Posted By wildearp: Based on this thread, I bought the three position AZR15A1 complete with trigger, pins, springs, safety, etc. I had been holding off and reading all the things before I decided on this one. Built in AZ, and guaranteed to work, were the final selling points. I did look long and hard at some of the drop in cartridge triggers, but this is more my style. I had to sort between rifles for which would fit, and which trigger I could live without for a while. I picked a Bushmaster SBR with a G2S. Although I have built over 30 lowers, it had been a few years.... First I installed the hammer spring wrong three times, and that is with a properly installed one laying right beside it, and I had my glasses on. Next I installed the sear with the short pin I had on hand and installed the trigger spring.....wrong... Proper direction, but the loop was not high enough.After straightening out my bent learning curve, this install would have taken all of 10 minutes, error free. I oiled things up, and replaced my carrier with a full auto style that I had in my parts bin. It passes bench testing just fine. The safety is among the stiffest one I have ever encountered. It is starting to break in, but I may need to shorten the detent spring or mod the detent at some point. The trigger on the first position seems to operate like a two stage. A decent amount of take up until the wall and then a little more and click. It is not advertised as a two stage, but seems to feel like one. Not a great two stage, but good enough. I should have hit the indoor range yesterday on old-people-discount day, but didn't feel like seeing if they have upgraded the shitty HVAC of the previous owners on a record heat day. Maybe next Monday. The outdoor county range made a new rule just for me in the old binary trigger days, so if I test my FRT there, I may be ban-in-nated forever. So, the selector, detent, spring, hammer and trigger are mil-spec and should act like it. The safety should not bind. From your description I would imagine that you need to just take a few thousandths off the lower cam leg, the sort of sounds like a step along the way to proper clearance. Have you removed the azr and dry function checked it (do not leave the azr for the 3-position out for storage or any reason and do not swap it to other guns, it is meant to work as one unit)? If the safety binding and trigger pull go away with it out then you’ll need to look at the azr. Usually taking material off the lower leg does it. You can put some marker or grease pencil on either the hammer where it would meet the azr or vice versa. Cycle it a few times and then see if the material transfers to the other part. If it does, remove material from that part of the hammer. If you place it in the third position with hammer down, can you pull the trigger back any? If not, definitely remove some from the lower leg. You should be able to “tap” the trigger throughout the entire rearward travel of the charging pull. If it allows no movement at any point…few more thousandths. Since the safety is binding it does make me worry that your upper pocket is out of spec and placing it in a bad location (it’ll deal with a lot of this). This is common. Do you have another upper to try? |
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First range day last week, things went fairly well, but I was having intermittent FRT mode occurring in semi-auto mode. So I read the directions. My upper is out of spec, there should be only a playing card thickness of material inside the rear lug of the cutout in the upper where the FRT toggle link resides. Mine had more than that, not much more, but definitely an issue. So I grabbed a Colt upper and it was in spec. I think there were similar issues back in the day when people were trying to get their RDIAS to run. A few thousandths of an inch.......... I opted to use the Tromix H3 * from the get-go to avoid any buffer issues. Note the weird color of my buffer after the first use. Also, there appears to be an impact point on the FRT link. I don't obsess over such things, just pointing it out. Luckily I had an E2 Armory FA style BCG in my spares bin. The Bushy carrier was a AR15 spec and the Colt was a C type carrier, both non-compatible. *note: Tromix says their H3 buffer is not compatible with the LAW tactical folding adapter, but it is working just fine with mine so far. I can see that it limits the buffer movement a bit because the 1/4-28 socket head screw impacts the LAW bolt extension adapter when the buffer is compressed. I have now modified the cheapest part, taking around 0.030-0.045" off the wrench end of the 1/4-28 screw. The sliding part of the buffer has a 0.090" gap, so I removed just enough of the bolt head to make it flush with the buffer face. Should be even more better now.   This photo shows the trigger bar and the hammer. Hammer is normal looking. The left of the trigger bar has a very light mark where the FRT link presses on the bar as I would expect. There is a mark on the right where the hammer appears to be impacting. These things were noted after the first outing with the out of spec upper.  This pic is just showing the hammer with no apparent interference marks.  Range trip 2 with a proper upper: FRT ran like a top. I switched back and forth to semi and FRT mode a few times to check the semi-auto mode and no issues. I can now see why there are so many confusing and misinformed videos floating around. Some folks may only have one or two AR15s and no parts lying around. With the stack of shit I have, I still had to find the right combo of upper, lower, and parts, to install my AZReg. I ordered a couple BLEM stripped uppers from BCM this AM. I am going to swap out my out-of-spec Bushmaster upper/barrel when it comes in, since it has a slightly heavier barrel and the Colt has the standard M4 profile barrel. (the safety seems to be breaking in nicely) I completely forgot to mention that both rifle uppers were 10 3/4" barrels with a Gemtech GMT Halo titanium. |
Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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I got my 3 pos the other day and it dropped in perfect and I was able to run a few mags. All were 100% Using Mega lowers/upper. Being a milspec trigger it needs some breaking in. It’s not horrible I’m just used to SD3Gs and Trigger Techs etc. |
"Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience."
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I have two AZR 3POS triggers but haven't been happy with the trigger feel. So, I purchased two Schmid match trigger kits (5.5 lbs) and two Schmid match elite kits (3.5 lbs). I believe the only difference between these two kit versions are the springs. Also purchased m16 disconnectors, two Colts from Arms Unlimited, and two generics ones from BFK (possibly Schmid because they have an S on them). The hammers, trigger shoes, and disconnectors were modified to look like AZR parts by using my neighbor's mill. When I find time again, I'll polish all the mating surfaces, and then install the two 3.5 lb kits in my rifles and give them a go. Was it worth all this trouble? I doubt it, but I like to tinker.      
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Originally Posted By wildearp: I ordered a couple BLEM stripped uppers from BCM this AM. I am going to swap out my out-of-spec Bushmaster upper/barrel when it comes in, since it has a slightly heavier barrel and the Colt has the standard M4 profile barrel. I pulled my LMT out of the safe. The upper is most definitely in spec.  I used my diamond file plate and used a nice widebody sharpie to check clearances. The hammer is definitely not touching anything in the bushy setup. I manually pulled the charging handle back and dropped it with the bushwacker and the hammer drops. That upper is simply not going to work. I slapped the Colt back on, no issues whatsoever.
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Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Originally Posted By tripntx: I have two AZR 3POS triggers but haven't been happy with the trigger feel. So, I purchased two Schmid match trigger kits (5.5 lbs) and two Schmid match elite kits (3.5 lbs). I believe the only difference between these two kit versions are the springs. Also purchased m16 disconnectors, two Colts from Arms Unlimited, and two generics ones from BFK (possibly Schmid because they have an S on them). The hammers, trigger shoes, and disconnectors were modified to look like AZR parts by using my neighbor's mill. When I find time again, I'll polish all the mating surfaces, and then install the two 3.5 lb kits in my rifles and give them a go. Was it worth all this trouble? I doubt it, but I like to tinker. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17671/20260809_120509-3812125.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17671/20260809_121340-3812126.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17671/20260815_161452-3812128.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17671/20260815_165446-3812131.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17671/20260815_193640-3812133.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/17671/20260815_193732-3812135.jpg I love the AZR design but damn I forgot how spoiled I’ve become with my G triggers. The 3POS in non FRT is rough. I took it out today and will try to see if a little flitz paste will help. I didn’t realize how much modification was done. Hopefully I can get mine at least to something like a ALG |
"Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience."
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Originally Posted By mc556: I love the AZR design but damn I forgot how spoiled I've become with my G triggers. The 3POS in non FRT is rough. I took it out today and will try to see if a little flitz paste will help. I didn't realize how much modification was done. Hopefully I can get mine at least to something like a ALG I don't plan on using it much in semi mode anyway. It will never be a SSA-E, unless you start with one...
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Preferred pronoun: MARINE
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Looks like RB is suing JD/AZR in federal court. https://imgur.com/a/JrcijAl “As I go about my day to day things same as I have done for years, I await being served with the proper papers in the proper manner. I look forward to it so we can kick this thing off right and proper. There are zero concerns on my part, nor my Lawyers and Litigators part(s), pertaining to emerging victorious, as my Answer is lengthy and covers the gammet in spades. I have learned and Discovered some very interesting things while doing due diligence in the process of composing of my Answer. I expected to get papers at the last Phx Gunshow I attended as I sat at my table all day on Saturday, waiting, but to no avail I left empty handed at the end of the day. End of Public Statement.” I know RB is suing everyone, like JD I expected this to come a long long time ago…even though I am failing to see the infringement…what else is new. Have any mfgs won these suits against RB? I consider the AZR to be one of the very best FRTs on the markets and would hate to see him unable to produce it. Edit: my 3-pos azr (early model, ordered the day they dropped) has started to go into frt mode in regular semi so long as I pull the trigger slower. The disconnector catches the hammer when I let off…or I think when I squeeze very hard. But a slow press will send 3-7 rounds. Since the trigger does seem to move to reset position in semi mode, I’m not as unnerved by it as leaving the azr out of this setup. But I do not like it at all. This is a 2nd gun it’s been in with not a lot of rounds through it. Maybe I just stick it back in the previous host and see how it does? |
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Originally Posted By BKenton: Looks like RB is suing JD/AZR in federal court. https://imgur.com/a/JrcijAl “As I go about my day to day things same as I have done for years, I await being served with the proper papers in the proper manner. I look forward to it so we can kick this thing off right and proper. There are zero concerns on my part, nor my Lawyers and Litigators part(s), pertaining to emerging victorious, as my Answer is lengthy and covers the gammet in spades. I have learned and Discovered some very interesting things while doing due diligence in the process of composing of my Answer. I expected to get papers at the last Phx Gunshow I attended as I sat at my table all day on Saturday, waiting, but to no avail I left empty handed at the end of the day. End of Public Statement.” I know RB is suing everyone, like JD I expected this to come a long long time ago…even though I am failing to see the infringement…what else is new. Have any mfgs won these suits against RB? I consider the AZR to be one of the very best FRTs on the markets and would hate to see him unable to produce it. Edit: my 3-pos azr (early model, ordered the day they dropped) has started to go into frt mode in regular semi so long as I pull the trigger slower. The disconnector catches the hammer when I let off…or I think when I squeeze very hard. But a slow press will send 3-7 rounds. Since the trigger does seem to move to reset position in semi mode, I’m not as unnerved by it as leaving the azr out of this setup. But I do not like it at all. This is a 2nd gun it’s been in with not a lot of rounds through it. Maybe I just stick it back in the previous host and see how it does? That might work. When mine started doing that, I swapped hosts and it was fine. I think someone else here filed on something, though. |
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