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Originally Posted By Active:
Also, This doesn't have to be a pissing contest about how many spare parts you keep. Its reasonable to include pins in a trigger package. Anyway, hopefully this thread has helped some people who purchased a lower, LPK, and a BFS. You will also need to order pins. Franklin should add them or state that on their website. If you bought a LPK it should have had a mil spec trigger with pins. A mil trigger is included in most LPK, unless you pieced your LPK together from different companies. |
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Originally Posted By GunSafe:
Something ain't right. You should not break trigger pins that easy even if it's suppressed. Do you have wear around the pin holes? Measure those suckers and see if they are still round and check the size. .154 To be fair. The pins I broke were really old no name pins that had 10's of thousands of rounds on them to begin with. Never broke a trigger pin, just the hammer pin. I also didn't use new pins until I put KNS pins in, and they've been fine since. That particular rifle did break two old hammer pins, though. But I was shooting .300BLK supers both times suppressed with an 8" barrel. Nothing is wrong with the rifle, or the parts. My point was that pins will break for whatever reason. But they do break, and it's always good to have a set, or two on hand in the event you need them in a pinch. ETA: Something else I'll mention, and this isn't directed at you, GunSafe. Just because it's never happened to one of your rifles doesn't mean it doesn't happen, can't happen, or has never happened. There's plenty of cases all over the internet where folks have broke pins while suppressed. |
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Originally Posted By mbell:
I can assure you my finger was completely off of the trigger in 2 frames which equates to 66 milliseconds. My finger comes completely off of the trigger. The problem was not trigger control. In my second test with a mid DI and rifle DI upper I had zero failures. I was able to fire strings at just under 900 RPM's using a 20" DI rifle upper. This is an upper that runs at 650 RPM on a Colt M16A1 lower. Zero failures with my finger on the trigger. The only change was to run a red spring. I used a standard BCG. https://youtu.be/_vzHb-kirPE Now after having zero failures for me, I took out the uppers used in the first videos. Guess what, it was not a dumbass with bad trigger discipline. The trigger does not do well with certain set ups. Some problems can be overcome with spring and BCG changes and some cannot. My intent is to analyse, which can take some time to truly evaluate what is happening mechanically. My trigger technique is the same in these videos. Here is my attempt to fix the problems in the original videos. Warning...attention span greater than 5 minutes required. https://youtu.be/23IrDTtckG0 Here's a close up of the trigger from the freeze frame in your first video at 4:04. You say your finger is off the trigger but it's obvious that the trigger is not fully forward. Even with the BUD engaged the BFS trigger will move fully forward so something must be preventing the trigger from moving. It looks to me like the side of your finger is in the trigger guard and is either delaying or preventing the trigger from moving fully forward before the bolt cycles thus engaging the BUD. It takes very little pressure on the side of the trigger to do this. 
At the end of the third video when you are talking about the bolt carrier travelling rearward too quickly, I think what you are really referring to is hammer "over travel." If you put the trigger in binary mode and without pulling the trigger, manually push the hammer down until it is nearly horizontal you will get the BUD to engage. I think the purpose of the BUD working in that scenario is to be able to rotate the safety back to the semi position while the BUD is engaged. I wouldn't think it would be a problem in actual use with a standard bolt carrier but it has been an issue with non-ramped bolt carriers on some .22 kits. Have you run through the dry fire function checks with your problem uppers? It is one of the listed tests. |
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Originally Posted By Fallen:
Here's a close up of the trigger from the freeze frame in your first video at 4:04. You say your finger is off the trigger but it's obvious that the trigger is not fully forward. Even with the BUD engaged the BFS trigger will move fully forward so something must be preventing the trigger from moving. It looks to me like the side of your finger is in the trigger guard and is either delaying or preventing the trigger from moving fully forward before the bolt cycles thus engaging the BUD. It takes very little pressure on the side of the trigger to do this. http://i.imgur.com/8uYbtId.jpg At the end of the third video when you are talking about the bolt carrier travelling rearward too quickly, I think what you are really referring to is hammer "over travel." If you put the trigger in binary mode and without pulling the trigger, manually push the hammer down until it is nearly horizontal you will get the BUD to engage. I think the purpose of the BUD working in that scenario is to be able to rotate the safety back to the semi position while the BUD is engaged. I wouldn't think it would be a problem in actual use with a standard bolt carrier but it has been an issue with non-ramped bolt carriers on some .22 kits. Have you run through the dry fire function checks with your problem uppers? It is one of the listed tests. Originally Posted By Fallen:
Originally Posted By mbell:
I can assure you my finger was completely off of the trigger in 2 frames which equates to 66 milliseconds. My finger comes completely off of the trigger. The problem was not trigger control. In my second test with a mid DI and rifle DI upper I had zero failures. I was able to fire strings at just under 900 RPM's using a 20" DI rifle upper. This is an upper that runs at 650 RPM on a Colt M16A1 lower. Zero failures with my finger on the trigger. The only change was to run a red spring. I used a standard BCG. https://youtu.be/_vzHb-kirPE Now after having zero failures for me, I took out the uppers used in the first videos. Guess what, it was not a dumbass with bad trigger discipline. The trigger does not do well with certain set ups. Some problems can be overcome with spring and BCG changes and some cannot. My intent is to analyse, which can take some time to truly evaluate what is happening mechanically. My trigger technique is the same in these videos. Here is my attempt to fix the problems in the original videos. Warning...attention span greater than 5 minutes required. https://youtu.be/23IrDTtckG0 Here's a close up of the trigger from the freeze frame in your first video at 4:04. You say your finger is off the trigger but it's obvious that the trigger is not fully forward. Even with the BUD engaged the BFS trigger will move fully forward so something must be preventing the trigger from moving. It looks to me like the side of your finger is in the trigger guard and is either delaying or preventing the trigger from moving fully forward before the bolt cycles thus engaging the BUD. It takes very little pressure on the side of the trigger to do this. http://i.imgur.com/8uYbtId.jpg At the end of the third video when you are talking about the bolt carrier travelling rearward too quickly, I think what you are really referring to is hammer "over travel." If you put the trigger in binary mode and without pulling the trigger, manually push the hammer down until it is nearly horizontal you will get the BUD to engage. I think the purpose of the BUD working in that scenario is to be able to rotate the safety back to the semi position while the BUD is engaged. I wouldn't think it would be a problem in actual use with a standard bolt carrier but it has been an issue with non-ramped bolt carriers on some .22 kits. Have you run through the dry fire function checks with your problem uppers? It is one of the listed tests. That is my trigger finger fully extended. I have a partial amputation of the distal 1&1/2 phalanges of my right index fingers. You just have to trust me on this one. My finger is off the trigger. The trigger does not move any farther forward on the next frame.The same trigger technique produced almost 900 RPM's with another upper. The function test all checked out prior to firing. I think lubing the trigger with TW 25 B and just some break in from use helped smooth out the trigger. But the main thing is just finding the right combination of gas systems, springs and BCG's that work well with this trigger. The hammer follow is the most frequent failure that completely resolved with use of the RED spring in the 20" DI rifle length gas upper using a standard M16 BCG and a Carbine buffer. That is why I am thinking the reward travel being slowed down is the key to minimizing the hammer follow. Certainly it is not the speed with which I am cycling the trigger. My rhythm and rate are consistent and 900 RPM is not too fast for the Stoner upper. |
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Got back from vacation and found my trigger was waiting on me. Finally! Order #388x for those that are looking for that info.
I had always planned on putting it in a stripped Spikes lower and after reading 113 pages in this thread I was fully expecting to sand the lower a little. I was pleasantly surprised when all of the holes lined up, my KNS pins tapped in nicely, and the selector fit perfectly. All of the dry fire tests passed also. Now I need to put one of my uppers on and see how it works out. I did about 500 cycles in semi and binary mode to break it in a little. I am no expert by any means but I can tell you that the safety tests helped me greatly in understanding how the trigger works and cycling it let me see what I was doing or not doing for the BUD engagement. |
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So my trigger likes to stick after its fired in semi-mode and not reset unless I manually push it forward. I have zero problems with the trigger in binary mode, only this sticking in semi-mode.
I have about 500 roudns through this trigger and about another 500 dry fires. When I dry fire it in semi-mode, I get this extra clunky reset, but it does reset. During live fire however I'll get random spurts of time where it fails to reset. I liberally applied tetra gun grease on this disconnecters and BUD as well. Has anyone else experienced this? |
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Originally Posted By emb876: So my trigger likes to stick after its fired in semi-mode and not reset unless I manually push it forward. I have zero problems with the trigger in binary mode, only this sticking in semi-mode. I have about 500 roudns through this trigger and about another 500 dry fires. When I dry fire it in semi-mode, I get this extra clunky reset, but it does reset. During live fire however I'll get random spurts of time where it fails to reset. I liberally applied tetra gun grease on this disconnecters and BUD as well. Has anyone else experienced this? |
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
did you use any shims installing the trigger ? sounds like it might be shimmed a bit too high Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By emb876:
So my trigger likes to stick after its fired in semi-mode and not reset unless I manually push it forward. I have zero problems with the trigger in binary mode, only this sticking in semi-mode. I have about 500 roudns through this trigger and about another 500 dry fires. When I dry fire it in semi-mode, I get this extra clunky reset, but it does reset. During live fire however I'll get random spurts of time where it fails to reset. I liberally applied tetra gun grease on this disconnecters and BUD as well. Has anyone else experienced this? Franklin armory did the install on my trigger. It's in a spikes lower which required some modification. I'm not sure if they shimmed it or not. |
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Originally Posted By emb876: Franklin armory did the install on my trigger. It's in a spikes lower which required some modification. I'm not sure if they shimmed it or not. Originally Posted By emb876: Originally Posted By 1iviper: Originally Posted By emb876: So my trigger likes to stick after its fired in semi-mode and not reset unless I manually push it forward. I have zero problems with the trigger in binary mode, only this sticking in semi-mode. I have about 500 roudns through this trigger and about another 500 dry fires. When I dry fire it in semi-mode, I get this extra clunky reset, but it does reset. During live fire however I'll get random spurts of time where it fails to reset. I liberally applied tetra gun grease on this disconnecters and BUD as well. Has anyone else experienced this? Franklin armory did the install on my trigger. It's in a spikes lower which required some modification. I'm not sure if they shimmed it or not. i lube the snot out of my trigger with oil then grease the contact areas , i run everything heavy on lube though  to me it just sounds like your trigger pack is getting "squeezed" which usually means it's shimmed to high. |
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
that's odd they had to modify a spikes lower , spikes are generally nice low shelf lowers. i would think with a spikes lower it would be pretty much plug and play. fireguy82 sounds like his install into a spikes lower went pretty smooth. i've put my trigger into 3 different lowers and it dropped in with no shims in all of them. i lube the snot out of my trigger with oil then grease the contact areas , i run everything heavy on lube though
to me it just sounds like your trigger pack is getting "squeezed" which usually means it's shimmed to high. Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By emb876:
Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By emb876:
So my trigger likes to stick after its fired in semi-mode and not reset unless I manually push it forward. I have zero problems with the trigger in binary mode, only this sticking in semi-mode. I have about 500 roudns through this trigger and about another 500 dry fires. When I dry fire it in semi-mode, I get this extra clunky reset, but it does reset. During live fire however I'll get random spurts of time where it fails to reset. I liberally applied tetra gun grease on this disconnecters and BUD as well. Has anyone else experienced this? Franklin armory did the install on my trigger. It's in a spikes lower which required some modification. I'm not sure if they shimmed it or not. i lube the snot out of my trigger with oil then grease the contact areas , i run everything heavy on lube though
to me it just sounds like your trigger pack is getting "squeezed" which usually means it's shimmed to high. Here's a pic of the bottom of the trigger. It may be hard to tell but does that silver piece there look like a shim? 
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Originally Posted By emb876:
Here's a pic of the bottom of the trigger. It may be hard to tell but does that silver piece there look like a shim? http://i.imgur.com/5xhKwBl.jpg?2 Originally Posted By emb876:
Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By emb876:
Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By emb876:
So my trigger likes to stick after its fired in semi-mode and not reset unless I manually push it forward. I have zero problems with the trigger in binary mode, only this sticking in semi-mode. I have about 500 roudns through this trigger and about another 500 dry fires. When I dry fire it in semi-mode, I get this extra clunky reset, but it does reset. During live fire however I'll get random spurts of time where it fails to reset. I liberally applied tetra gun grease on this disconnecters and BUD as well. Has anyone else experienced this? Franklin armory did the install on my trigger. It's in a spikes lower which required some modification. I'm not sure if they shimmed it or not. i lube the snot out of my trigger with oil then grease the contact areas , i run everything heavy on lube though
to me it just sounds like your trigger pack is getting "squeezed" which usually means it's shimmed to high. Here's a pic of the bottom of the trigger. It may be hard to tell but does that silver piece there look like a shim? http://i.imgur.com/5xhKwBl.jpg?2 yea I think so |
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Originally Posted By skytrooper01:
yea I think so Hmm ok. If the trigger is pinned into the receiver though how would shims affect the height and in turn the sticking im getting in semi-mode? shims or no shims if the trigger is pinned into the receiver it can only be at that one height right? |
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Originally Posted By emb876: Here's a pic of the bottom of the trigger. It may be hard to tell but does that silver piece there look like a shim? http://i.imgur.com/5xhKwBl.jpg?2 Originally Posted By emb876: Originally Posted By 1iviper: Originally Posted By emb876: Originally Posted By 1iviper: Originally Posted By emb876: So my trigger likes to stick after its fired in semi-mode and not reset unless I manually push it forward. I have zero problems with the trigger in binary mode, only this sticking in semi-mode. I have about 500 roudns through this trigger and about another 500 dry fires. When I dry fire it in semi-mode, I get this extra clunky reset, but it does reset. During live fire however I'll get random spurts of time where it fails to reset. I liberally applied tetra gun grease on this disconnecters and BUD as well. Has anyone else experienced this? Franklin armory did the install on my trigger. It's in a spikes lower which required some modification. I'm not sure if they shimmed it or not. i lube the snot out of my trigger with oil then grease the contact areas , i run everything heavy on lube though to me it just sounds like your trigger pack is getting "squeezed" which usually means it's shimmed to high. Here's a pic of the bottom of the trigger. It may be hard to tell but does that silver piece there look like a shim? http://i.imgur.com/5xhKwBl.jpg?2 the first time i installed my trigger pack i tried to shim it a bit for a nice tight fit and had nothing but sticking trigger issues in semi. i removed the shims and it worked fine. if the trigger pack housing is being forced up against the pins it can cause binding inside of the trigger pack. it's not like a normal trigger and hammer that "float" on the pins if you understand what i'm trying to say. |
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
hard to tell from that pic. it is silver like the shims but unless they split it in half the shims are round and the silver looking piece seems to be straight in your pic. the first time i installed my trigger pack i tried to shim it a bit for a nice tight fit and had nothing but sticking trigger issues in semi. i removed the shims and it worked fine. if the trigger pack housing is being forced up against the pins it can cause binding inside of the trigger pack. it's not like a normal trigger and hammer that "float" on the pins if you understand what i'm trying to say. The edges of the silver piece are more rounded than the picture shows, I think it is in fact a shim. So you had similar issues in semi-mode like I'm having when your trigger was shimmed? I might have to remove my pack and take out any shims, see if that clears the issue up. |
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Originally Posted By emb876: The edges of the silver piece are more rounded than the picture shows, I think it is in fact a shim. So you had similar issues in semi-mode like I'm having when your trigger was shimmed? I might have to remove my pack and take out any shims, see if that clears the issue up. Originally Posted By emb876: Originally Posted By 1iviper: hard to tell from that pic. it is silver like the shims but unless they split it in half the shims are round and the silver looking piece seems to be straight in your pic. the first time i installed my trigger pack i tried to shim it a bit for a nice tight fit and had nothing but sticking trigger issues in semi. i removed the shims and it worked fine. if the trigger pack housing is being forced up against the pins it can cause binding inside of the trigger pack. it's not like a normal trigger and hammer that "float" on the pins if you understand what i'm trying to say. The edges of the silver piece are more rounded than the picture shows, I think it is in fact a shim. So you had similar issues in semi-mode like I'm having when your trigger was shimmed? I might have to remove my pack and take out any shims, see if that clears the issue up. it couldn't hurt to take a look , if franklin installed it you might want to give them a call also. |
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
i never actually shot it like that. it just didn't seem right so i pulled it and tried it without the shims and it felt much better and passed all the function checks. subsequently in the other lowers i installed it into i used no shims from the get go and it's worked fine in all of them , semi and binary. it couldn't hurt to take a look , if franklin installed it you might want to give them a call also. Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By emb876:
Originally Posted By 1iviper:
hard to tell from that pic. it is silver like the shims but unless they split it in half the shims are round and the silver looking piece seems to be straight in your pic. the first time i installed my trigger pack i tried to shim it a bit for a nice tight fit and had nothing but sticking trigger issues in semi. i removed the shims and it worked fine. if the trigger pack housing is being forced up against the pins it can cause binding inside of the trigger pack. it's not like a normal trigger and hammer that "float" on the pins if you understand what i'm trying to say. The edges of the silver piece are more rounded than the picture shows, I think it is in fact a shim. So you had similar issues in semi-mode like I'm having when your trigger was shimmed? I might have to remove my pack and take out any shims, see if that clears the issue up. it couldn't hurt to take a look , if franklin installed it you might want to give them a call also. Yeah good idea. I'll give them a call sometime this week and see if they have any ideas. Thanks for your input man |
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Originally Posted By emb876: Yeah good idea. I'll give them a call sometime this week and see if they have any ideas. Thanks for your input man Originally Posted By emb876: Originally Posted By 1iviper: Originally Posted By emb876: Originally Posted By 1iviper: hard to tell from that pic. it is silver like the shims but unless they split it in half the shims are round and the silver looking piece seems to be straight in your pic. the first time i installed my trigger pack i tried to shim it a bit for a nice tight fit and had nothing but sticking trigger issues in semi. i removed the shims and it worked fine. if the trigger pack housing is being forced up against the pins it can cause binding inside of the trigger pack. it's not like a normal trigger and hammer that "float" on the pins if you understand what i'm trying to say. The edges of the silver piece are more rounded than the picture shows, I think it is in fact a shim. So you had similar issues in semi-mode like I'm having when your trigger was shimmed? I might have to remove my pack and take out any shims, see if that clears the issue up. it couldn't hurt to take a look , if franklin installed it you might want to give them a call also. Yeah good idea. I'll give them a call sometime this week and see if they have any ideas. Thanks for your input man |
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Went out today to shoot my Binary, and Long Range Rifle. What an AWESOME DAY! That trigger is just the best thing. You cant help but have a smile on your face shooting it, and still smiling after you are done. Give you guys some good advice. If you don't have a Franklin Binary Trigger. I would get one for sure. Just a great day all around. Thought I would share it with my Brothers in Arms.
Spector |
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Originally Posted By xtreme762:
If nothing else the ECHO trigger looks to be a MUCH safer trigger than the BFS. It says a lot about the ECHO trigger that the Military is looking at it. Judging by franklin armory's character here in this thread I'm 100% certain the BFS isn't, and hasn't been even glanced at by the Military. Franklin armory's character being they're pretty loud, and proud about what they've done, and I can't see them not announcing the Military looking at the BFS to the world 10x over. I thoroughly expect them to come in here now to claim the Military has, or is looking at the BFS to try to sell more triggers. Cause taking your money is really all franklin armory gives two shits about! ETA: I just want to point out the fact that Iraqveteran8888, and company fired hundreds of rounds in the video below with ZERO ISSUES; ZERO. And with ZERO TUNING ON THE RIFLE; ZERO! This alone should speak volumes about franklin armory's BFS...... And I'm sorry but I do not for one second believe your BFS trigger is faster than the ECHO without major tuning to make the entire system faster...  https://youtu.be/PYThNUVZrYMAt minute 6:32 it looks like there is a failure to fire on the release? ............ |
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Originally Posted By slater2111:
Good to know it hasnt had any ill effects. I think I may have thought of a solution to my problem. Once i have my other firing pin in hand, ill give my idea a try. There is no hang up on my CMMG kit between the rail and hammer I tested that today it clears by .012 on both sides. God bless special aviation feeler gauges! Its still not making contact with the end of the firing pin. So my idea is sand the chrome off the end and braze some more metal onto the end and reshape it, effectively lengthening the end of the firing pin. A brazing filler rod would be strong enough to take repeated blows of the hammer. unless they have changed the design of both firing pins, the taccom on the left has a longer end.taken from a google search http://<a href=http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn36/Slater2111/Taccom_zpsiaw6sqyi.jpg</a>" /> Originally Posted By slater2111:
Originally Posted By kronus92:
Originally Posted By slater2111:
I saw your work when you posted it. My rails dont have any marks from the hammer touching it. But that doesn't mean its not. Like you said its tough metal. I am worried about removing material and the rails becoming weak and the bolt wandering around between the rails. I did read that the Taccom enhanced firing pin is longer. So I bought that and will give that a try before cutting the rails. Understandable. I hope the enhanced firing pin works out for you. If it doesn't, the CMMG units are pretty tough. I was worried about wobble as well, but the length of the cut is small enough that it doesn't have any noticeable wobble and it definitely hasn't affected function. I've shot at least 1000 rounds through it since my modification. Good to know it hasnt had any ill effects. I think I may have thought of a solution to my problem. Once i have my other firing pin in hand, ill give my idea a try. There is no hang up on my CMMG kit between the rail and hammer I tested that today it clears by .012 on both sides. God bless special aviation feeler gauges! Its still not making contact with the end of the firing pin. So my idea is sand the chrome off the end and braze some more metal onto the end and reshape it, effectively lengthening the end of the firing pin. A brazing filler rod would be strong enough to take repeated blows of the hammer. unless they have changed the design of both firing pins, the taccom on the left has a longer end.taken from a google search http://<a href=http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn36/Slater2111/Taccom_zpsiaw6sqyi.jpg</a>" /> I have 3 cmmg conversions. The cmmg to the right is the OLD style firing pin. The new style cmmg firing pin looks like the TACCOM. I'll post pics of all three firing pins this evening. |
"Looks.And Looks are Everything! We all want bigger dicks, and shorter barrels" -usjet-
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Originally Posted By slater2111: Its all good. I abandoned the idea of using the BFS with the 22 conversion. Built me a 22 pistol instead. http://<a href=http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn36/Slater2111/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxuylfzzp.jpeg</a>" />  that's what this thread is lacking lately , some pics and vids for pg 114 here's a vid of 2 mags with a bfs  |
Just took mine out after getting my Stamp in.... 7.5 it runs perfect! The concussion kept me from being 100% smooth with it but fun non the less. Now with my 10.5 suppressed was a whole other story, everyone who was with me giggled. So end result is this thing is perfect!! If it didnt cost so darn much I would put it in more then one of my lowers....but alas my milk money wont cover another one!
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Originally Posted By Media_Noche: Is the gas-length making a real difference? I could go either carbine or mid-length. BMHSSG --- good to hear your bfs ran good. what was your setup with the 10.5 ? |
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
going off mbell's video's it seems the longer the gas system the better , i believe he only added a red sprinco spring with a full mass carrier with a 20" rifle gas barrel and was getting around 900 rpm. with a carbine gas system a lightweight carrier really helps to speed things up. BMHSSG --- good to hear your bfs ran good. what was your setup with the 10.5 ? Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By Media_Noche:
Is the gas-length making a real difference? I could go either carbine or mid-length. BMHSSG --- good to hear your bfs ran good. what was your setup with the 10.5 ? my 10.5 is a plain PSA upper with a spare bolt I had.... nothing special. Standard spikes lower with a stock buffer and spring! I hope that helps!! I did use the trigger on my 16 and 20 inch, all rain perfect. The 20 inch was awesome off a bi pod with a drum  ...once again nothing really special done to any of them internally.
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Originally Posted By 1iviper: nice that's what this thread is lacking lately , some pics and vids for pg 114 here's a vid of 2 mags with a bfs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emNr5PmagDcOriginally Posted By 1iviper: Originally Posted By slater2111: Its all good. I abandoned the idea of using the BFS with the 22 conversion. Built me a 22 pistol instead. http://<a href=http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn36/Slater2111/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxuylfzzp.jpeg</a>" /> that's what this thread is lacking lately , some pics and vids for pg 114 here's a vid of 2 mags with a bfs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emNr5PmagDcLooks likes she's running good. Will add this video to the OP ASAP. |
RIP WMD :(
"Some hills are not worth dying on and internet drama is one of them.." - a wise man I call sir
"Some hills are not worth dying on and internet drama is one of them.." - a wise man I call sir
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
going off mbell's video's it seems the longer the gas system the better , i believe he only added a red sprinco spring with a full mass carrier with a 20" rifle gas barrel and was getting around 900 rpm. with a carbine gas system a lightweight carrier really helps to speed things up. BMHSSG --- good to hear your bfs ran good. what was your setup with the 10.5 ? Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By Media_Noche:
Is the gas-length making a real difference? I could go either carbine or mid-length. BMHSSG --- good to hear your bfs ran good. what was your setup with the 10.5 ? Viper do you still have that video I sent you of my BFS? I'm electronicly challenged, Can you put that one up for people to see? |
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
nice
that's what this thread is lacking lately , some pics and vids
for pg 114 here's a vid of 2 mags with a bfs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emNr5PmagDc
Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By slater2111:
Its all good. I abandoned the idea of using the BFS with the 22 conversion. Built me a 22 pistol instead. http://<a href=http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn36/Slater2111/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxuylfzzp.jpeg</a>" />
that's what this thread is lacking lately , some pics and vids
for pg 114 here's a vid of 2 mags with a bfs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emNr5PmagDc
Nice man. Specs on the upper/buffer system? |
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Originally Posted By 2020tactical: Viper do you still have that video I sent you of my BFS? I'm electronicly challenged, Can you put that one up for people to see? Originally Posted By 2020tactical: Originally Posted By 1iviper: Originally Posted By Media_Noche: Is the gas-length making a real difference? I could go either carbine or mid-length. BMHSSG --- good to hear your bfs ran good. what was your setup with the 10.5 ? Viper do you still have that video I sent you of my BFS? I'm electronicly challenged, Can you put that one up for people to see? |
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emb876 and spector --- the gun in that video has an 11.5" carbine gas barrel , aim lightweight bolt carrier , sprinco red spring and a carbine buffer. if my math is correct i was getting around 750 rpm that night on average. with a suppressor it added too much back pressure and i had 3 or 4 bud engagements in 6 mags , the added back pressure definitely sped up the rate of fire though i'm going to take it back out with the can and add some mass back either with a heavier carrier or bump the buffer weight up a bit to try and find a sweet spot suppressed. i took the bfs out of that gun tonight and put it back in my retro lower though so it might be a couple of weeks before i get that gun back out with the bfs. i'm hoping to get my commando back to the range tomorrow with the lightweight carrier to see how much quicker it can empty a mag than with a full mass carrier. has anyone here run an aluminum or really lightweight carrier with the bfs ? |
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Originally Posted By seattlite:
Looks like my BFS trigger sits a little high in my DDLES Glock Lower. Before I start fitting the BFS.... can anyone comment on the performance/issues of the BFS on 9mm lowers, Glock or Colt patterned. Any and all comments are greatly appreciated. That is odd because I have the same setup on my Quarter Circle Glock lower SBR and I had to shim it a bit to get it to fit properly. Course then you have to mill (dremel) out the bolt itself because of the oversize hammer on the BFS, but its pretty easy and quick. Just take it slow and test fit often. As far as performance and issues, I haven't really ran into anything. I shortened the action up quite a bit with a 9mm buffer and some quarters in the buffer tube, but as far as performance, it runs very well. I don't mag dump much with it, but I love the double/quad taps and works pretty darn well. |
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Originally Posted By HYRYSC:
That is odd because I have the same setup on my Quarter Circle Glock lower SBR and I had to shim it a bit to get it to fit properly. Course then you have to mill (dremel) out the bolt itself because of the oversize hammer on the BFS, but its pretty easy and quick. Just take it slow and test fit often. As far as performance and issues, I haven't really ran into anything. I shortened the action up quite a bit with a 9mm buffer and some quarters in the buffer tube, but as far as performance, it runs very well. I don't mag dump much with it, but I love the double/quad taps and works pretty darn well. Originally Posted By HYRYSC:
Originally Posted By seattlite:
Looks like my BFS trigger sits a little high in my DDLES Glock Lower. Before I start fitting the BFS.... can anyone comment on the performance/issues of the BFS on 9mm lowers, Glock or Colt patterned. Any and all comments are greatly appreciated. That is odd because I have the same setup on my Quarter Circle Glock lower SBR and I had to shim it a bit to get it to fit properly. Course then you have to mill (dremel) out the bolt itself because of the oversize hammer on the BFS, but its pretty easy and quick. Just take it slow and test fit often. As far as performance and issues, I haven't really ran into anything. I shortened the action up quite a bit with a 9mm buffer and some quarters in the buffer tube, but as far as performance, it runs very well. I don't mag dump much with it, but I love the double/quad taps and works pretty darn well. What bolt were you using? |
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
nice
that's what this thread is lacking lately , some pics and vids
for pg 114 here's a vid of 2 mags with a bfs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emNr5PmagDc
Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By slater2111:
Its all good. I abandoned the idea of using the BFS with the 22 conversion. Built me a 22 pistol instead. http://<a href=http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn36/Slater2111/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxuylfzzp.jpeg</a>" />
that's what this thread is lacking lately , some pics and vids
for pg 114 here's a vid of 2 mags with a bfs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emNr5PmagDc
The second mag, the initial round doesn't look like it was on the pull of the trigger, rather the release. Is that the case? If so, is this an always or occasional event? |
I want to die like my uncle did, peacefully in his sleep and not screaming and crying like the people in his car. -J Handy
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Originally Posted By qwerty4: The second mag, the initial round doesn't look like it was on the pull of the trigger, rather the release. Is that the case? If so, is this an always or occasional event? Originally Posted By qwerty4: Originally Posted By 1iviper: Originally Posted By slater2111: Its all good. I abandoned the idea of using the BFS with the 22 conversion. Built me a 22 pistol instead. http://<a href=http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn36/Slater2111/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxuylfzzp.jpeg</a>" /> that's what this thread is lacking lately , some pics and vids for pg 114 here's a vid of 2 mags with a bfs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emNr5PmagDcThe second mag, the initial round doesn't look like it was on the pull of the trigger, rather the release. Is that the case? If so, is this an always or occasional event? it's one of the quirks of the bfs , that's why i showed running 2 mags in a row in the video. if you notice i take a quick stab at the trigger to try to release the disconnector so it will fire on the pull to start the 2nd mag but it didn't work , the second mag starts with the pull releasing the disconnector and the release firing the first shot. with the fostech echo trigger coming out this shouldn't be an issue as it's said to always fire on the pull |
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
it's an always
it's one of the quirks of the bfs , that's why i showed running 2 mags in a row in the video. if you notice i take a quick stab at the trigger to try to release the disconnector so it will fire on the pull to start the 2nd mag but it didn't work , the second mag starts with the pull releasing the disconnector and the release firing the first shot. with the fostech echo trigger coming out this shouldn't be an issue as it's said to always fire on the pull Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By qwerty4:
Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By slater2111:
Its all good. I abandoned the idea of using the BFS with the 22 conversion. Built me a 22 pistol instead. http://<a href=http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn36/Slater2111/Mobile%20Uploads/image_zpsxuylfzzp.jpeg</a>" />
that's what this thread is lacking lately , some pics and vids
for pg 114 here's a vid of 2 mags with a bfs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emNr5PmagDc
The second mag, the initial round doesn't look like it was on the pull of the trigger, rather the release. Is that the case? If so, is this an always or occasional event?
it's one of the quirks of the bfs , that's why i showed running 2 mags in a row in the video. if you notice i take a quick stab at the trigger to try to release the disconnector so it will fire on the pull to start the 2nd mag but it didn't work , the second mag starts with the pull releasing the disconnector and the release firing the first shot. with the fostech echo trigger coming out this shouldn't be an issue as it's said to always fire on the pull Thank you! |
I want to die like my uncle did, peacefully in his sleep and not screaming and crying like the people in his car. -J Handy
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Originally Posted By seattlite:
What bolt were you using? Originally Posted By seattlite:
Originally Posted By HYRYSC:
Originally Posted By seattlite:
Looks like my BFS trigger sits a little high in my DDLES Glock Lower. Before I start fitting the BFS.... can anyone comment on the performance/issues of the BFS on 9mm lowers, Glock or Colt patterned. Any and all comments are greatly appreciated. That is odd because I have the same setup on my Quarter Circle Glock lower SBR and I had to shim it a bit to get it to fit properly. Course then you have to mill (dremel) out the bolt itself because of the oversize hammer on the BFS, but its pretty easy and quick. Just take it slow and test fit often. As far as performance and issues, I haven't really ran into anything. I shortened the action up quite a bit with a 9mm buffer and some quarters in the buffer tube, but as far as performance, it runs very well. I don't mag dump much with it, but I love the double/quad taps and works pretty darn well. What bolt were you using? it was originally a colt bolt that I modified to use with my glock lower. |
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
no problem , i hope you get it sorted out. a malfunctioning trigger is never a good thing Originally Posted By 1iviper:
Originally Posted By emb876:
Yeah good idea. I'll give them a call sometime this week and see if they have any ideas. Thanks for your input man So I called and spoke to someone from Franklin last week. We tried to problem shoot my trigger. The guy I spoke to said he never heard of a sticking trigger that lasted as many rounds as I had through mine. He said that it could possibly be a shim height issue or something else. I decided to try and problem shoot it myself even though he offered me an RMA (because it would suck to be out of my SBR lower for two months). I took the trigger pack out for the first time ever since they installed it. I greased it up and removed the two shims that were inside. The trigger still seated even with the shims removed. I got it out to the range today and while semi had no sticking issues, my binary mode which was basically flawless before, ran into problems. So when I got back today I took the trigger back out, put the shims back in, and re greased the pack. I'm hoping that the grease alone will help my issues, seeing as how I never took the pack out to grease it up before removing the shims. I also noticed this time that my trigger serial number is under 100, so I definitely have an early one. I'll have to wait until the next time I can get out to the range and see if this changed anything. Kinda frustrating 
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First come, first serve! We have 50 BFS triggers ready to go with FREE KNS pins. Use promo code "KNS-PINS". It ends up that the hole for the retaining spring wandered a bit too far, and the spring wire on the cartridge housing doesn't hold the pins well enough. KNS pins were the obvious upgrade answer. We are including these pins free for the first 50 people that use the above code when ordering from the website. Dealers are welcome to take advantage of this offer too. Just call the office on Monday. I just got this email from FA. |
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First time running this thing....I know, I forgot to put my eyes on....was thinking about making the vid and got distracted.
I had Franklin do the install. The first several shots in Semi mode, I got a dead trigger after the shot...when I ejected the bullet, I found a light strike. It worked better in Binary mode for me at first. I know in the instructions from Franklin, they say to change to Semi when changing mags. One time I forgot to and I got a bit of a surprise when I hit the bolt release and the gun fired. |
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Originally Posted By 1iviper:
emb876 and spector --- the gun in that video has an 11.5" carbine gas barrel , aim lightweight bolt carrier , sprinco red spring and a carbine buffer. if my math is correct i was getting around 750 rpm that night on average. with a suppressor it added too much back pressure and i had 3 or 4 bud engagements in 6 mags , the added back pressure definitely sped up the rate of fire though i'm going to take it back out with the can and add some mass back either with a heavier carrier or bump the buffer weight up a bit to try and find a sweet spot suppressed. i took the bfs out of that gun tonight and put it back in my retro lower though so it might be a couple of weeks before i get that gun back out with the bfs. i'm hoping to get my commando back to the range tomorrow with the lightweight carrier to see how much quicker it can empty a mag than with a full mass carrier.
has anyone here run an aluminum or really lightweight carrier with the bfs ? Thanks man. Waiting to hear about the other trigger |
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Originally Posted By emb876: So I called and spoke to someone from Franklin last week. We tried to problem shoot my trigger. The guy I spoke to said he never heard of a sticking trigger that lasted as many rounds as I had through mine. He said that it could possibly be a shim height issue or something else. I decided to try and problem shoot it myself even though he offered me an RMA (because it would suck to be out of my SBR lower for two months). I took the trigger pack out for the first time ever since they installed it. I greased it up and removed the two shims that were inside. The trigger still seated even with the shims removed. I got it out to the range today and while semi had no sticking issues, my binary mode which was basically flawless before, ran into problems. So when I got back today I took the trigger back out, put the shims back in, and re greased the pack. I'm hoping that the grease alone will help my issues, seeing as how I never took the pack out to grease it up before removing the shims. I also noticed this time that my trigger serial number is under 100, so I definitely have an early one. I'll have to wait until the next time I can get out to the range and see if this changed anything. Kinda frustrating Originally Posted By emb876: Originally Posted By 1iviper: Originally Posted By emb876: Yeah good idea. I'll give them a call sometime this week and see if they have any ideas. Thanks for your input man So I called and spoke to someone from Franklin last week. We tried to problem shoot my trigger. The guy I spoke to said he never heard of a sticking trigger that lasted as many rounds as I had through mine. He said that it could possibly be a shim height issue or something else. I decided to try and problem shoot it myself even though he offered me an RMA (because it would suck to be out of my SBR lower for two months). I took the trigger pack out for the first time ever since they installed it. I greased it up and removed the two shims that were inside. The trigger still seated even with the shims removed. I got it out to the range today and while semi had no sticking issues, my binary mode which was basically flawless before, ran into problems. So when I got back today I took the trigger back out, put the shims back in, and re greased the pack. I'm hoping that the grease alone will help my issues, seeing as how I never took the pack out to grease it up before removing the shims. I also noticed this time that my trigger serial number is under 100, so I definitely have an early one. I'll have to wait until the next time I can get out to the range and see if this changed anything. Kinda frustrating the 2 shims are like peel washers and layers can be peeled off to shorten the height of the shims. hopefully a good lubing will do it some good and she runs tits for you next time you get out to the range. |
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Originally Posted By B585: First time running this thing....I know, I forgot to put my eyes on....was thinking about making the vid and got distracted. https://youtu.be/c9El_zxODakI had Franklin do the install. The first several shots in Semi mode, I got a dead trigger after the shot...when I ejected the bullet, I found a light strike. It worked better in Binary mode for me at first. I know in the instructions from Franklin, they say to change to Semi when changing mags. One time I forgot to and I got a bit of a surprise when I hit the bolt release and the gun fired. the light primer strikes will happen by a round getting chambered , pretty normal. dropping the bolt and having a round ignite isn't normal though. i would give franklin armory a call and see what they say if they did the install. |
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