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Posted: 6/18/2025 9:00:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Hunter8793][Edited]
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Help. I guess I need a wooden rod to go down the barrel so I can hammer it out? I've whacked and whacked with a rubber hammer. Nailed the takedown pin ear pretty good. Attached File Attached File |
AEKDB
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Originally Posted By Stillnothere: is it hanging up on your forward assist? No, it appears to go in and out normally. I'm guessing just the torelances are so freaking tight especially with the cerakote. I got it to budge a little by prying with a screw driver. But it won't go anymore. I tried the hammer again no luck. I ordered one of the M4 military style cleaning kits with the steel rods. |
AEKDB
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Maybe its the picture but that entire top side (ejection side) looks twisted - even the front of the top picatinny rail doesn't look straight-did you have it in a vise and use a gorilla bar on the barrel nut? If the upper really is twisted (and its not just the pic) then its probably toast. (hopefully its distortion in the pic from the camera lens used, but stick a straight edge on it just in case) Push the rod back in toward the barrel if it will go - see if you can get it to slide easily a little... see where its binding and then try to get some momentum to get it to move further back (take the assist completely out so it doesn't hang it up). rinse and repeat. Those steel military cleaning rods bend pretty easily, wood dowels break off and the splinter can wedge (if your trying to dislodge a stuck bullet) -might not on the reaction rod. Maybe home despot has a solid 3' steel or alum rod that will fit (1/4" is too big but maybe they have 3/16")... be careful shoving it down the barrel. |
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Originally Posted By SyberSniper: Maybe its the picture but that entire top side (ejection side) looks twisted - even the front of the top picatinny rail doesn't look straight-did you have it in a vise and use a gorilla bar on the barrel nut? If the upper really is twisted (and its not just the pic) then its probably toast. (hopefully its distortion in the pic from the camera lens used, but stick a straight edge on it just in case) Push the rod back in toward the barrel if it will go - see if you can get it to slide easily a little... see where its binding and then try to get some momentum to get it to move further back (take the assist completely out so it doesn't hang it up). rinse and repeat. Those steel military cleaning rods bend pretty easily, wood dowels break off and the splinter can wedge (if your trying to dislodge a stuck bullet) -might not on the reaction rod. Maybe home despot has a solid 3' steel or alum rod that will fit (1/4" is too big but maybe they have 3/16")... be careful shoving it down the barrel. It is straight. Home Depot has that 3/16'' 3ft steel rod. I'm gonna go get one. Thanks. Attached File Attached File |
AEKDB
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@OP This is what yours looks like if you don't have it stuck...correct?:  Does it slide forward easily or feel rough when you move it toward the barrel extension? Since you have already said it was a chill to fit upper, I'd put the entire unit in the freezer for a good 5 hours, then pull it and clamp the tool in a vice with the barrel pointing to the ground so gravity is helping, and use a heat gun to apply heat to just the upper receiver, trying to avoid directing the hot air toward the tool rod. Hopefully the aluminum would quickly pull in the heat and start to expand the upper faster than the steel tool, allowing the steel tool to fall free If I was at your point through, I would have already removed the set screw for your forward assist and remove forward assist, the see if the tool is any easier to move with the forward assist out of the way. Even if it's not, shine a light into the open channel with the forward assist out of the way and see if you have an angle to push on the upper tool or can better identify where the problem is at. Another area to try applying force would be against the vertical fin that's riding in the charging handle channel to see if it's loose and has shifted in the slot of the tool somehow. |
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Originally Posted By Stillnothere: At this point you're probably best served by getting the barrel off and hammering the receiver rod with something more substantial. Got it out. My new Husky digital calipers say the MI Upper tool diameter is 25.40mm and the rear inside diameter of the upper is 25.30mm… My old G upper tool that I just found is 25.30mm and slides in and out just fine FFS. |
AEKDB
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Originally Posted By Wangstang: @OP This is what yours looks like if you don't have it stuck...correct?: https://ar15discounts.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/02/MIURR3081.jpg.optimal.jpg Does it slide forward easily or feel rough when you move it toward the barrel extension? Since you have already said it was a chill to fit upper, I'd put the entire unit in the freezer for a good 5 hours, then pull it and clamp the tool in a vice with the barrel pointing to the ground so gravity is helping, and use a heat gun to apply heat to just the upper receiver, trying to avoid directing the hot air toward the tool rod. Hopefully the aluminum would quickly pull in the heat and start to expand the upper faster than the steel tool, allowing the steel tool to fall free If I was at your point through, I would have already removed the set screw for your forward assist and remove forward assist, the see if the tool is any easier to move with the forward assist out of the way. Even if it's not, shine a light into the open channel with the forward assist out of the way and see if you have an angle to push on the upper tool or can better identify where the problem is at. Another area to try applying force would be against the vertical fin that's riding in the charging handle channel to see if it's loose and has shifted in the slot of the tool somehow. Got it out. It was really stuck. It would not go forward or backwards. eta: yes that is the MI tool that was stuck... |
AEKDB
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Put the tool in the vice with it pointed towards the ground so if the receiver fell off, it would drop on the ground. Spray the inside of the receiver around the bar with penetrating oil. Use a soft mallet and tap around the receiver to help loosen it and help the oil to work its way around inside the receiver. Get a substantial piece of wood and place the edge somewhere on the receiver. Start wacking the piece of wood to drive the receiver down towards the floor and off the bar. Switch to another spot on the receiver and start wacking on it to push the receiver off the bar. Keep switching spots where you put the wood on the receiver and keep wacking the wood with a hammer until the receiver finally pops off the bar. ETA: The bar is obviously canted at an angle inside the receiver with it pointing towards the ejection opening. You need to straighten the bar inside the receiver before you continue to try to force it in or out. |
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All done. Thanks for your help guys. Attached File Attached File |
AEKDB
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Originally Posted By Wangstang: So what was the final technique for freeing it up? I bought some bolt cutters and cut the bent part of the first 3ft steel rod off. Used a 5lb sledge hammer and kept on smacking. Slowly but surely it came out. Didn't even need the second steel rod I bought. So 3/16'' steel rod down the barrel was the answer. |
AEKDB
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Originally Posted By Hunter8793: I bought some bolt cutters and cut the bent part of the first 3ft steel rod off. Used a 5lb sledge hammer and kept on smacking. Slowly but surely it came out. Didn't even need the second steel rod I bought. So 3/16'' steel rod down the barrel was the answer. Any obvious scuffs/scrapes/gouges along the interior of the upper once it was out? |
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Originally Posted By Wangstang: Any obvious scuffs/scrapes/gouges along the interior of the upper once it was out? Yep. But that was caused by me hitting the fwd assist like an idiot with the rubber hammer while trying to get it out. Did you see the measurement numbers I posted? Apparently .10mm makes a difference. |
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