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Posted: 6/12/2026 10:03:57 PM EDT
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I had an issue with my rifle over the weekend and borrowed a buddy's. His rifle has a light mounted on at 3 o'clock with a tape switch on the top of the rail. I have always avoided putting a switch on my rifles, and typically run them at the 9'oclock position. BUT! I absolutely loved this set up. My main concern is keeping the wire from the tail-cap to the switch out of the way and as clean as possible to not snag on things. Im sure all of you have the same concern. Sooo, what's the best switch? best way to to address the wire? I was thinking about going with the FUEL Modlite 18350 Rifle Light Package??? I could be talked into a SureFire Mini Scout too. Thanks in advance for all the help! |
Joined:
Mar 2022
Posts:
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VA, USA
| Here's my unsolicited two cents: switches suck. They're great when they work, but I'm in the process of switching all of my weapon lights to clicky-caps. I think at best I've had about 50% success with switches and SF UE tailcaps. This includes SF and Modlight switches. I just don't trust that when I need the light, that the switch is going to work. Switches have been an exercise in frustration for me. I love the concept and the convenience of putting a switch where I want it, but I just have not had good luck over the years. I hear the Unity Gas Caps work well, but at this point I've spent enough on different combinations of switches and tailcaps that I'm just done. Back to the old, reliable clicky-caps for me... |
RIP TSgt Jason Norton and SSgt Brian McElroy. KIA 22 Jan 06, near Taji, Iraq.
LaRue Armorer, Colt 1911 Armorer, Colt M16/AR15 Armorer, Glock Armorer
LaRue Armorer, Colt 1911 Armorer, Colt M16/AR15 Armorer, Glock Armorer
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Originally Posted By CATM: Here's my unsolicited two cents: switches suck. They're great when they work, but I'm in the process of switching all of my weapon lights to clicky-caps. I think at best I've had about 50% success with switches and SF UE tailcaps. This includes SF and Modlight switches. I just don't trust that when I need the light, that the switch is going to work. Switches have been an exercise in frustration for me. I love the concept and the convenience of putting a switch where I want it, but I just have not had good luck over the years. I hear the Unity Gas Caps work well, but at this point I've spent enough on different combinations of switches and tailcaps that I'm just done. Back to the old, reliable clicky-caps for me... I've just switched back to the clicky tailcaps and so far I'm liking it. I guess the only negative is the lights aren't ambi now so if you're LH like me everybody else won't be able to use the light. |
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Originally Posted By dukhnt: I had an issue with my rifle over the weekend and borrowed a buddy's. His rifle has a light mounted on at 3 o'clock with a tape switch on the top of the rail. I have always avoided putting a switch on my rifles, and typically run them at the 9'oclock position. BUT! I absolutely loved this set up. My main concern is keeping the wire from the tail-cap to the switch out of the way and as clean as possible to not snag on things. Im sure all of you have the same concern. Sooo, what's the best switch? best way to to address the wire? I was thinking about going with the FUEL Modlite 18350 Rifle Light Package??? I could be talked into a SureFire Mini Scout too. Thanks in advance for all the help! Attached File This is my solution. Snag free, no hard bends in the wire, redundancy on the light and mfal, viz override available. |
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