Previously I really loved Froglube but like a lot of folks, I found that firearms in storage come out fused together and require some deep cleaning. I ended up going back to Breakfree CLP and grease, but I recently ran out of my gallon clp and just so happen no more grease. So I really read into how others solved the problem, and it seems like the issue is you have to use the solvent first before you apply the paste. Admittedly I didn't really clean everywhere on the firearm before and the areas where I didn't I recall getting sticky.

I did a backyard test to confirm if it indeed gets sticky when mixed with something like Breakfree, and on top of that tried just the paste to see if it would get sticky. I mixed clp and froglube in the backyard, and applied the solvent and wiped it down and put the paste on a different part of this metal I had. About a week later, sure enough the breakfree mixed one turned noticeably sticky but the paste still was fluid and smooth feeling. So I'm starting to agree with Froglube that perhaps residual petrol chemical was left on my firearm and the cause of the prior stickiness.

Thus far the weapon feels great and very smooth and very easy to clean like I remember before. I really enjoy using a brush and running paste all over and wiping it down. I also left some paste like great on the rails of firearms and after about a month now, none has turned gummy. However, anyone else had this experience?

Never again.  I kept my FL around for stuff like door hinges, but finally threw it out.    Nothing like a gummy action on a carry pistol to cure me.

I have a friend that has a recipe that includes froglube on the buffer spring and somehow in the buffer tube, and it gives a silky/ball-bearing type action.   It does work, but I still won’t try it on my personal rifles after all the gummy horror stories.

It would be like giving a cheating wife a second chance.

No.

Definitely a no go in cold, freezing temps..Temps...
I used to use the paste, then switched to FL extreme, now I use Cherry Balmz and can't see using anything else.

Cherry Balmz is awesome. I don't have it anymore but I guess I could order it if FL goes south again.

Thus far it is great. Really like how smooth the action is and how great things cycle. I had a Heanel where the dust cover was hard to close but after applying the FL on it, it now closes very easily with just a finger. So FL is definitely working and at the range I'm seeing my upper really wet and slimy after shooting and it cleans right off as I remember. Now to really test out the long term for this to see if it actually works after using the degreaser on everything.

Don’t do it man.   That bitch will burn you.  

I tried to love her, and got pegged for my love.

just get a quart of MOBIL1 5w30 motor oil

frog lube is a gimmick

I like that Derek guy..

I tried FL, seemed cool. Then winter came around and I rememebed I lived in a place that rests at -20 to -40. Now I just use breakfree and TW25B.

I completely got everything over to froglube. It is so far working like I remembered. Very smooth and very easy to clean. However, I will let you know in a month or two if the FL on my lesser used firearms become rock solid again and gummy. I am hoping since this time I made sure I used their solvent on everything that it will be good to go but only time will tell.

I did a back yard test with it. I had three coatings. One is froglube by itself, froglube mixed with breakfree, and then froglube mixed with grease. I found the froglube and the grease mixed froglube still remained fairly slippery after a couple of days but the froglube mixed with breakfree one started to turn noticeably more sticky. So I don't know for sure if what they say is true about using their solvent but I will find out.

I have never had a problem with frog lube getting gummy...  

As I remember the frog lube maker's instructions, the parts are to be warmed up first, apply the frog lube and let it melt into the part, then wipe off all the excess after it cools down.  There is no frog lube left on the exterior of the part to get gummy.  

I have alternatively left the part with only the frog lube that soaked into it, or applied some other kind of lubricant over the top of the frog lube.

You work there?  or  how much did they pay you?

This...

This.

I didn't even give it away, I just threw the shit in the trash.

I didn't want another Alaskan to have cold weather issues with it, like I did.

If you use it all the time, yeah, it seems to work really well. When I got stored weapons that I don't touch for months or once a year maybe, yeah it gets really gummy. That's when I got rid of it thinking I can't trust something that is slowly turning into gum. But I always thought I really liked how smooth things felt so that is why I'm giving it a second chance after using the grease/breakfree for the last 3 years. I had just run out of my breakfree CLP and coincidentally ran out of grease nearly the same so I figure I'd give it another shot after reading through their website. Not sure if it'll work this time but I guess in a few months I'll let you know if I toss it out again.

Well keep in mind I'm keeping an open mind here. I recall the weapons I used all the time were smooth as anything I ever seen. But the weapons I had stored and used only maybe once a year would turn into gummy glue that I had to mortar. I tossed it out after that and switched back to breakfree/grease and that has worked really well over the last few years. Now I'm coming back to froglube and will see how well it works after using the solvent. I didn't really pay attention to the solvent part before and after reading their website it sounds like that was the issue. So I don't know. I might come back here in a few months talking about how crappy froglube is.

Yep.

Most snake oil is stupid.

If everyone has leaped off of Frog Lube (see what I did there?) does anyone recommend a replacement that is non-toxic and/or "green" as FL is?

https://ballistol.com/faqs/  perfect for black powder guns, and Suburu driving portlandians

IS BALLISTOL NON-TOXIC?
Ballistol does not contain ingredients considered hazardous by the FDA. It does not contain any ingredients which may be harmful for warm-blooded organisms, reptiles or aquatic organisms (if used as directed). If swallowed, DO NOT INDUCE VOMITING, ASPIRATION CAN OCCUR. CONSULT A PHYSICIAN IMMEDIATELY.

There are various good ones, as the Ballistol one above.

But you can try the Slip2000 stuff. I used that before as well and really liked it. The EWL and EWG are excellent products.

A little mini update since about a month of using Froglube. I love it! I really think my issue was the solvent part. I got the solvent and pretty much got into every space on my rifle and pistols and it doesn't turn to glue. I conducted a backyard test for a week and mixed froglube with clp and froglube with grease and kept one froglube by itself. The clp mixed froglube turned to glue but interesting the grease (tw25b) and the froglube itself remained fluid and slippery.

Overall I am happy and pleased I came back to froglube. Until it does the glue/fused gun thing again, I'm really signing off that this stuff is great. I still have 1 pistol I'm keeping in storage and not touching it until next month to see if it turns into glue and fused shut. I'll let you know the result of that one.

You could use mineral oil if you are worried about health risk

Use a hair dryer to warm the part and the frog lube and apply it sparingly and you will be fine. I use it on the exterior of guns alot.

If you are someone who "never cleans there guns" or who leaves them in a safe in high humidity without servicing them you can see gum, but use it sparingly and treat your tools like they might save your life and you won't have any issues.

Nope…….not a chance

It’s been a little over a year on giving froglube a second chance. I really think the problem with me was not using the degreaser. I use the solvent everytime now and never has any gumming issue with it like before. I see myself using this stuff forever. Really the smoothest thing I have used to date with the exception of cherry balmz. Combined with wipeout bore cleaner and then following up with solvent and froglube it gets the weapon completely clean.

I use Mobil 1.

Never had an issue.

Why do people overthink this stuff?

Man I used their degreaser.  I really wanted it to work.  Degreased, applied FL. Heated and Wiped down.  Nothing like a click when I wanted a bang.  That did take a couple years to get there.
 I switched to Mobil 1 and had great results, but a springer prodigy screwed all that up.  No idea what was going on, but that damn slide would almost go in slow motion.

Mucked out the Mobil 1, used CLP and it runs like a scalded ass ape.   I’ll continue to use Mobil 1 on everything but that damn prodigy.

Glad FL is working for you.  Allegedly it has the most corrosion resistance out there.

LOL. If you stick your head in a hole in a tree and get whacked in the head, you don’t go sticking your head in holes!

My point is, it was a dumb thing to do to begin with, and was worse than you might expect, why would you keep doing it?

I bought a PPQ from a guy who had only had it like a week. When I got it home I smelled the FL. Dammit. Did some heavy duty cleaning and got it all off. Or thought I did.

A couple months later, after having shot it several times, I took it to the range on a 40 degree day. I immediately experienced failure to fires. Break it down real quick and the previous owner that I thought was just an idiot two times over for selling a pistol after just a week and losing $150 on it and using FL, was actually an idiot three times over. Because he used FL in the striker channel/on the striker. WTF.

Cleaned the sticky goop off and got one shot before it stopped again. Cleaned it a second time, got more crap off and it worked the rest of the day. Really deep cleaned it that night.

Never ever use froglube for any reason, whatsoever. Just use some gun oil or Mobil 1.

Mil-Spec CLP is actually a super good gun lube, probably the best on the market but is mostly overlooked for some reason.  

Engine oil gets sluggish pretty quickly and it doesn’t lubricate as well as CLP.  

I have absolutely no clue why anyone would even bother trying to do that, but if it works for you, have at it.

The fact that it can’t be mixed with petroleum based lubricants, which will always be around, is a fairly large negative.

Why bother?

If motor oil is getting sluggish on you, you’re using something that is way too heavy for your environmental conditions.

“Mil-spec CLP” is a fairly lightweight oil that runs/blows off of reciprocating parts fairly quickly especially with higher round counts with lots of heat.  

Anecdotally, “mil-spec CLP” whether that be the current Radcolube, or other similar products, requires re-oiling a lot more often than other lubes (both dedicated gun lubes as well as others, like motor oil), especially in high volume suppressed applications.

This shouldn’t be a surprise, as motor oils are designed and developed with a lot more extreme environments in mind.  This is with applications that are exponentially more critical and a lot more expensive to repair if the lube isn’t doing its job.  Billions of dollars are poured into automotive lubrication R&D/engineering.  If you think the “firearm lube” industry is anywhere close to that, you need to share some of what you’re smoking.

Naw. Saw too many sticky-assed guns. Oil is oil. MobilOne. Among others. SLP2000 is my current go-to next to MPro7 oil and RemOil.

The firearm lube industry didn’t spec or test CLP.  The US government did and they didn’t start over again with the -F spec to save money.

Most of the billions spent by the motor oil companies is on bullshit marketing.  

And the government has tested synthetic engine oil as a small arms lube. It’s outclassed in every way by CLP.

Slip 2000 EWL and in recent years CherryBalmz have worked well.  The former didn’t fail Filthy14 so it should be plenty for lil ol’ me.

Nope. Went to slip 2000 ewl and have never looked back.

A lot of what you said is flat out inaccurate.  What’s the overhead liability for a motor oil manufacturer who skimps on R&D/engineering and causes a bunch of engine failures?  Throw in that oil performance can have some effects from an emissions standpoint (meaning .gov is heavily involved).  They spend billions on R&D and engineering, we even have one or two posters on here who work in the industry and have shared a lot of technical data as to what goes into the engineering of lubricants for internal combustion engines (amongst other items).

As far as CLP spec and what DoD has spec’d, you get exactly what you think you’d get with any government procurement process.  On top of that, DoD requirements are extremely wide arching insofar as weapons lubricant goes.  They have a need for something that provides a basic level of corrosion resistance, especially in salt water environments (the “P” part).  They also need detergents that do at least a semi decent job of dissolving or at least loosening carbon and other deposits (the “C” part).  Lubrication is a a need, but DoD needs something that will work in a wide variety of conditions and environments (to include as wide a temperature range as possible).  

As for better performance in colder conditions, that means you’ll be using an oil that is quite bit thinner than other lubes, which translates to the oil running off/being blown off of internal components more quickly, meaning you’ll need to add more lubricant to the weapon on a more frequent basis.  Anecdotally, I have personally experienced this issue using other lubricants side by side with both old and modern CLP.  The problem was amplified after adding a suppressor and increasing the firing schedule.

Basically, CLP is a “best guess” at a “one size fits all” solution, primarily to minimize issues with procurement and logistics (amongst some other things).  

It’s designed to meet the needs of someone who requires a capability to keep weapons reliably running  in almost all conditions, regardless of how extreme.  It’s also designed to offer some basic levels of corrosion protection and cleaning ability, so DoD users don’t need a HAZMAT locker full of different products to keep their weapons protected, clean, lubricated and running.  None of these things is going to be a concern for the vast majority of civilian firearm owners, and as is the case with most “jack of all trades” solutions, you’re not getting the best performance possible in any one category.  

DoD knows this, as do a lot of others, so I’m not sure why you're trying to sell it as the best option available in any category.  It flat out is not.

Just use epoxy, it lubes better

you're welcome

I used frog lube for a little while, and i think it worked decently when used as directed. But like others have said, you can’t mix it with other stuff. And i noticed very quickly that when you start getting below 40 degrees it starts to get sticky. Absolutely would not recommend for colder climates and even more temperate ones.
If i had some i would use it up but wouldn’t buy more.

On an unrelated note my handloads use a dirtier powder now and I don’t know that FL would play well with it so hoppes, rem oil, and CLP are my go tos.

Fool me once, shame on you.
Fool me twice, shame on me.

I really like frog lube/ seal something paste as a cleaner. I put it on with a paint brush and wipe off. But then Super lube oil/grease.

Mixture of synthetic ATF and Kroil.

RCA

Attached File

It works when its 0 in the winter & 90 in the summer. Not all brand names I have used worked as well in both conditions...

Why use regular Mobil 1 when you can use Mobil 1 Extended Performance and fire twice the number of rounds before relubricating.

If you have any old guns with a high round count, use Mobil 1 high mileage.


RCA

I don't understand these lubes. Not once haver I ever sat there and said "damn, my lube isn't working".

I see you’ve never glued a gun together with FrogLube

After seeing FL, firsthand, gum-up my partner's G23 to the point we had to completely disassemble and strip clean it, I will never purchase that product.

I have had great success with it, but it takes a lot of work to apply it properly.  I heat up the metal to which the froglube will be applied, then put on the frog lube and work the parts while giving the melted frog lube a chance to melt onto and into the surface.  Then I wipe off all the excess frog lube.  

Doing it this way, I lubed up an AR15 to use in a practical rifle match when the high temperature for the day was 20 degrees fahrenheit...it was 16 degrees as I went to the range, and stayed around 18 degrees as the match started and all the rifles were in the racks outside.  The Frog lube worked great, no weapon malfunctions...I really like the stuff.

Some times I will apply the frog lube, let it soak in while melted, wipe it off and apply some additional oil or grease for more lubrication.

ETA:  I don't have any connection to froglube, not personally, nor financially.   It just worked for me.  I use many different types of lubrication depending on the weapon system, environment (clean, sandy, wet, muddy etc), temperature, and how the weapon system will be used.

Something that I have also had good success with is a 50/50 mix of Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil and Mobil 1 synthetic transmission fluid.  If I want the lubricant to be more "sticky", I'll mix the 50/50 mix with some synthetic auto grease until I reach the desired "stickiness".   The more I thought about it, the more sense it made that auto lubricants would work well in firearms...automobile engines function under very high heat, pressure, explosions, and repetitive motions...just like firearms.  

The real benefit to the 50/50 motor oil/transmission fluid mixture is that if I buy one quart each, I end up with a half gallon of my lubricant for far less than I would pay for an equal amount of designer "gun oil" (around $10.00 for 4 ounces).

FrogLube can not soak into metal.

So if you apply it properly, there will be NO FrogLube on the gun.  

And it will run a lot better than if there was.