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Posted: 9/17/2026 5:46:49 PM EDT
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Hey guys, I hope this will help some of you. I have a Kitty Kat with pistol gas with an N-spec frt. It ran for about 15 rounds, but then jammed the buffer in the buffer tube. I had to disassemble the lower to get the buffer out of the tube. I installed Odin Works adjustable buffer adjusted to H3 weight. It ran flawlessly. I then reduced the weight to H2. It ran flawlessly, but a little faster. Now on to the problem carbine. I have a Gordon carbine-ish. It has a DD 12.5" barrel with carbine gas, an Allen Engineering brake and an AEM5 suppressor, and N-spec FRT. With an H2 buffer it will only run about 3 rounds. Then it's a dead trigger and a light primer strike on the round in the chamber. With an H3 buffer will only run about 6 rounds (twice as many). Then it's a dead trigger and a light primer strike on the round in the chamber. If I install the AEM5, I get only a single round and a light primer strike on the one in the chamber, regardless of which buffer I use, H2 or H3. I have an additional tungsten buffer weight that I installed in the H3. This tungsten weight is 1.5oz. This brought the H3's weight to 6.8oz. I installed it in the Gordon carbine. It runs flawlessly now, suppressor or unsuppressed. So the solution is a heavier buffer. This is the solution that the KAK dbc presents. I hope this helps some of you who are having light primer strikes and dead triggers. Add weight to the buffer. Gil |
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Joined:
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EE: 100% (16)
KY, USA
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I should have known better than to post something to try to help out someone else. Two replies and nothing but negativity. That's what this forum does best. My Odin Works buffers work flawlessly. I've had them for years configured for different weights with thousands of rounds with them. |
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| Not criticizing your approach, but adding context for others who may be struggling with similar issues. Again, the OdinWorks adjustable buffer is known to be problematic with FRTs because the ratio of reciprocating weight to total weight is too low. A true H3 (lighter aluminum body with three tungsten weights) is a more universally reliable buffer with FRTs. Adding the third tungsten weight to your OdinWorks got you closer to where you need to be and clearly is working for you, but it is less efficient for most people than simply starting with a traditional H3. |
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Originally Posted By PPCCFI: I should have known better than to post something to try to help out someone else. Two replies and nothing but negativity. That's what this forum does best. My Odin Works buffers work flawlessly. I've had them for years configured for different weights with thousands of rounds with them. Odin buffers are known not to work as well with FRTs as their aluminum bodied counterparts. I'm glad your rifle is running well now, but you were not being insulted, your anecdote was being expanded on for those same future readers. |
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Originally Posted By PPCCFI: I should have known better than to post something to try to help out someone else. Two replies and nothing but negativity. That's what this forum does best. My Odin Works buffers work flawlessly. I've had them for years configured for different weights with thousands of rounds with them. Negativity? If your buffer had 2 tungsten weights and 1 steel weight it was not an H3. Carbine: 3 steel weights H1: 1 tungsten, 2 steel weights H2: 2 tungsten, 1 steel weight H3: 3 tungsten weights |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Not criticizing your approach, but adding context for others who may be struggling with similar issues. Again, the OdinWorks adjustable buffer is known to be problematic with FRTs because the ratio of reciprocating weight to total weight is too low. A true H3 (lighter aluminum body with three tungsten weights) is a more universally reliable buffer with FRTs. Adding the third tungsten weight to your OdinWorks got you closer to where you need to be and clearly is working for you, but it is less efficient for most people than simply starting with a traditional H3. Tell me what you think an H3 ways. |
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Originally Posted By raverill: Negativity? If your buffer had 2 tungsten weights and 1 steel weight it was not an H3. Carbine: 3 steel weights H1: 1 tungsten, 2 steel weights H2: 2 tungsten, 1 steel weight H3: 3 tungsten weights I'll ask you too. What do you think that an H3 weighs. |
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Originally Posted By PPCCFI: I'll ask you too. What do you think that an H3 weighs. It’s not defined by mass, it’s defined by the number of tungsten weights. Numerous ways we can get to 5+ ounces. You can use a steel body buffer rather than an aluminum one. Better question do you know what you are trying to do to prevent light primer strikes? You are trying to prevent carrier bounce. You accomplish this by adding damping masses, same principle as dead blow hammer. |
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Originally Posted By PPCCFI: Bolt bounce? No shit. Thanks Mr. Obvious. Or course it was bolt bounce causing light primer strikes. That is why I added weight. You've been very helpful. But, you didn't answer my question. I'll ask again. What do you think an H3 weighs? Everyone in this thread except you is talking only in straightforward, technical detail. Your behavior is not appropriate for a tech forum. |
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Originally Posted By PPCCFI: Bolt bounce? No shit. Thanks Mr. Obvious. Or course it was bolt bounce causing light primer strikes. That is why I added weight. You've been very helpful. But, you didn't answer my question. I'll ask again. What do you think an H3 weighs? The total weight does not matter. The movable weight is what matters. 3 tungsten weights in an aluminum body, or the Tromix H3 buffer will dampen bolt bounce well. Edit: steel body buffers add to bolt bounce issues since they effectively add to the total carrier weight, thus requiring more that 3 tungsten weights to dampen. Don't take my word for it,, use your phone to take a slow motion video, you will be surprised with how many gucci buffer systems allow bolt bounce. |
Middleofnowhere, Nebraska
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Originally Posted By PPCCFI: Bolt bounce? No shit. Thanks Mr. Obvious. Or course it was bolt bounce causing light primer strikes. That is why I added weight. You've been very helpful. But, you didn't answer my question. I'll ask again. What do you think an H3 weighs? The average weight of an H3 buffer is about 5.4oz. The part you don't seem to grasp is that reciprocating weight and total weight are two very different things. You can technically achieve a 5.4oz buffer from a solid-bodied buffer, but it will be highly inefficient at mitigating bolt bounce. You absolutely should not need 6.8oz of buffer weight to run an FRT in 99% of 5.56 guns; you're only requiring so much weight because you aren't using a traditional H3 buffer. I run nothing but H2s in all mine. But they're H2s with the correct reciprocating weight, and barrels ported for FA fire with an H2. Being upset with others for correcting you when you clearly don't know what you're talking about isn't a very good look. |
Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
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Want To Buy: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Geissele S3G
| I just fine tuned all of my AR's, it was just trial and error, most ran best with H1. MY 16" with the FRT needed an H2. The only one I didn't mess with was my 14.5" KAC, I find it better to not screw around with that one as it never had a hick-up. It came with a H2 weighing in at 4.8 ounces. As far as an H3 buffer goes, I'd leave that one alone unless there is a specific issue where it needs it. Luckily I never came across any issues like that in my trial and errors. Oh and as an add on, I've become really good at taking those those little bastard buffers apart switching around weights and putting them back together. Only lost 2 roll pins. |
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Having a similar problem with my Freedom Ordinance FM9. A regular 4 ounce H buffer would only fire one shot. The H3 (5.4 ounce) buffer would only fire three shots. Ordered the Odin 9mm 7.4 ounce tungsten adjustable buffer. We shall see… Most other available 9mm buffers were either too long (4.125”) or didn’t have the reciprocating weights. I have a similar two piece mechanical buffer (like the Tromix) and it doesn’t work. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: Not criticizing your approach, but adding context for others who may be struggling with similar issues. Again, the OdinWorks adjustable buffer is known to be problematic with FRTs because the ratio of reciprocating weight to total weight is too low. A true H3 (lighter aluminum body with three tungsten weights) is a more universally reliable buffer with FRTs. Adding the third tungsten weight to your OdinWorks got you closer to where you need to be and clearly is working for you, but it is less efficient for most people than simply starting with a traditional H3. Its his money I guess. |
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Originally Posted By HKPDW: Having a similar problem with my Freedom Ordinance FM9. A regular 4 ounce H buffer would only fire one shot. The H3 (5.4 ounce) buffer would only fire three shots. Ordered the Odin 9mm 7.4 ounce tungsten adjustable buffer. We shall see Most other available 9mm buffers were either too long (4.125") or didn't have the reciprocating weights. I have a similar two piece mechanical buffer (like the Tromix) and it doesn't work. Blowback9 recommended it. Read the below, he has all the info anyone would need on 9mm ARs. https://blowback9.wordpress.com |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: My 9mm only needed a 10oz KVP buffer with four tunstein sliding weights. Blowback9 recommended it. Read the below, he has all the info anyone would need on 9mm ARs. https://blowback9.wordpress.com Too long. I need a carbine length in the belt fed. If I went with the KVP, I’d have to use a longer buffer tube and spacers to keep the feed stud / charging handle from getting damaged. Belt feds are a PIA to work with… |
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@ppccfi Other members are simply stating that odin buffers are well known to be problematic with frt’s and there are, in fact, better options to prevent bolt bounce and enhance reliability. Don’t get so emotional just because everyone in the classroom doesn’t agree with you. |
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Originally Posted By HKPDW: Too long. I need a carbine length in the belt fed. If I went with the KVP, I'd have to use a longer buffer tube and spacers to keep the feed stud / charging handle from getting damaged. Belt feds are a PIA to work with 
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Originally Posted By PPCCFI: I don't know what you think qualifies you to tell me what to do. Anyway, I'm done feeding the trolls. I only tried to help out other and attracted nothing but trolls. You guys can troll amongst yourselves. Sometimes it's just best to say: ok thanks Sharing an opinion or having different points of view is not trolling. From what I have seen the Odin buffer is $74. Choosing a $74 buffer over a $40 buffer isn't a big deal to me. Glad it worked. |
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Originally Posted By LineHaul: I don't think OP understands the meaning of "trolls". He did help reaffirm to anyone wondering that Odin Works buffers are trash with FRT's. Tromix ftw!!  Partisan Disruptor FRT + odin works hfrt buffer |
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Originally Posted By FreefallRet: Seems like they work, why are they trash?  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5zJN5opvOAOriginally Posted By FreefallRet: Originally Posted By LineHaul: I don't think OP understands the meaning of "trolls". He did help reaffirm to anyone wondering that Odin Works buffers are trash with FRT's. Tromix ftw!! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i5zJN5opvOAI spend a lot of time in the FRT subforum. A huge fraction of people reporting failures, "even though they have an H3," are using Odin buffers. |
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Originally Posted By HKPDW: Too long. I need a carbine length in the belt fed.… @HKPDW If your belt fed bolt has a conventional 9mm internal bolt weight, you could try replacing it with the KAK tungsten bolt weight to add a couple of ounces to the total bolt mass, allowing you to reduce bolt velocity while sticking with an H3. This weight has been rarer than hens teeth recently though. Another option to look at is the Tromix H4. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: @HKPDW If your belt fed bolt has a conventional 9mm internal bolt weight, you could try replacing it with the KAK tungsten bolt weight to add a couple of ounces to the total bolt mass, allowing you to reduce bolt velocity while sticking with an H3. This weight has been rarer than hens teeth recently though. Another option to look at is the Tromix H4. The FM9 bolt is a strange dog. The bolt is proprietary and cannot accommodate a weight in the back. It’s also a little longer than a standard 9mm bolt and therefore cannot accommodate a 9mm buffer (unless I use a longer buffer tube like an A5). I have a RRA copy of the Tromix H3 and it DOES NOT work.   The Odin 9mm buffer (3.25” carbine length) should arrive next week. I shall report back. |
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Originally Posted By HKPDW: …I have a RRA copy of the Tromix H3 and it DOES NOT work… I as referring to the Tromix H4. Same concept but more deadblow mass. It’s still a carbine length. |
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Originally Posted By HKPDW: Too long. I need a carbine length in the belt fed. If I went with the KVP, I'd have to use a longer buffer tube and spacers to keep the feed stud / charging handle from getting damaged. Belt feds are a PIA to work with ETA: Nevermind, I see what you have now. I would probably swap to an A5 buffer tube. |
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Originally Posted By jaqufrost: Which beltfed? ETA: Nevermind, I see what you have now. I would probably swap to an A5 buffer tube. . Yeah, that’s Plan B. If the Odin doesn’t work, I’ll switch to an A5 buffer tube and buy an H4 9mm “dead blow” buffer. I’ll have to shave 1/8” off the buffer bumper to get everything to fit / work properly. |
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