AR Sponsor
Posted: 8/10/2025 7:28:40 PM EDT
[Last Edit: RD20][Edited]
| Just a quick question for those who’ve used Hoppe’s #9 cleaner for a while—have you ever noticed it leaving behind a sticky or tacky residue if it sits too long without being wiped off completely? I’ve been using it for regular cleaning, and while I’m not seeing any issues, I’m curious if that’s something others have run into. Not super concerned, just trying to better understand how it behaves long-term. Appreciate any insights. |
|
Started using it in the fall of 1969 on my Ithaca M37 (I was 12 yars old.) Used it on a bunch of guns over the years since. No issues I've noticed. I do run a dry patch behind the last brush strokes in the barrels. I lube/oil/wipe down everything else as I reassemble it. Might be washing/diluting any powder solvent left behind with the lube oil and oily rag I wipe the excess lube off with. |
How you live your life is important. Just be sure the memory of how you died doesn't overshadow the tales of how you lived your life.
| Yes, at one point in my life I used Hoppes #9 solvent and Breakfree CLP. I believe the sticky stuff you're seeing is from the interaction between the hoppes #9 and the clp. For me, what had happened was I was using it but I guess I must have left it on my stock or something and it mixed with CLP and I remember it felt sticky to the touch. Just wiping it off again seems to work. |
| This^^^^^^ That's what I was sort of looking for. I didn't know if Hoppe's was a potential problem if all of it wasn't wiped away, or if it required somehow missing areas while wiping down and inadvertently leaving more Hoppe's behind than intended that could result in a problem. |
| I believe Hoppe's 9 contains a small amount of ammonia. If left on steel, it will eventually cause corrosion. You should wipe it off and then a light coat with a gun oil. I've been doing that for decades without issues. Hoppe's also makes an Elite Cleaner (if you can find it) without ammonia. |
|
used to use Hoppes 9, on long term storage guns they would be sticky. started using Mobil 1, no sticky. very early in my gun owning, used it on a cheap Ruger P89, could not stop the pitting of the thin useless blueing. now I know it's the ammonia? no pitting or rust since I switched to Mobil 1. haven't gotten it refinished. maybe before I die I'll have it cerakoted. the carry gun has pitting where my sweat condenses on the slide that faces me. I've tried various different oils, nothing prevents it. it's an inexpensive but very reliable cz75 clone so as long as it goes bang idgaf. I will end up getting that one and its twin cerakoted. |
The deuce you say.
| I can’t say I’ve ever had any issues with Hoppes #9 and I’ve used it for probably 45 years. I always wipe down with a rag that’s “damp” with Hoppes to remove any fingerprints when I’m finished, never had a blued, stainless, alloy, synthetic or wood get sticky, pit or rust. I clean with Hoppes #9 lube with CLP. WD40 if you want sticky…. |
|
Which Hoppes #9? The cleaner or the lube? And do you mean the classic or one of the half dozen other products that are all Hoppes #9? The classic lube is just mineral oil. The same stuff you can buy at the grocery store for like $6 for 16 ounces, or double that if you buy it labeled as cutting board oil. The classic cleaner is about 45% denatured alcohol, about 45% kerosene (this has been the base for cleaners for a century or longer, though not as common as it once was), about 5% ammonia, and about 5% Isoamyl Acetate (banana oil). I keep saying about because the SDS isn't clear and says something like up to that amount. |
|
Originally Posted By Unicorn: Which Hoppes #9? The cleaner or the lube? And do you mean the classic or one of the half dozen other products that are all Hoppes #9? The classic lube is just mineral oil. The same stuff you can buy at the grocery store for like $6 for 16 ounces, or double that if you buy it labeled as cutting board oil. The classic cleaner is about 45% denatured alcohol, about 45% kerosene (this has been the base for cleaners for a century or longer, though not as common as it once was), about 5% ammonia, and about 5% Isoamyl Acetate (banana oil). I keep saying about because the SDS isn't clear and says something like up to that amount. Thanks for replying. The original post was asking about the cleaner. |
| I used to use it for cleaning my bolt carrier but stopped. Still use it for the barrel and bolt just not the inside of the carrier and inside the key. Last I read it had alcohol in it and I don't think the mil spec key to carrier sealant likes alcohol. |
| No, I have not noticed any residue with Hoppes #9. It is meant to be applied and wiped off. It's a very effective powder solvent. It is also a copper solvent but not a very strong one. There are stronger copper solvents. I personally think the entire discussion of dissolving copper is moot unless you are a benchrest shooter. |
AR Sponsor