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Posted: 12/15/2025 12:41:02 PM EDT
| I’m looking to remove a front sight block and replace with a low profile block. Is there any particular trick to removing the two pins? I put oil on them last night and will give them a day or more to see if that helps. Any other ideas? |
| Put upper on concrete floor. Support FSB with something durable. You can use wood or buy a cheap plastic FSB block. Use a large flat faced punch and hammer to start the pins from small side to large side. You don't have to punch all the way through yet. Just get them moving. Once they move, use proper size punch to push all the way out. |
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Originally Posted By Slingblade2006: Put upper on concrete floor. Support FSB with something durable. You can use wood or buy a cheap plastic FSB block. Use a large flat faced punch and hammer to start the pins from small side to large side. You don't have to punch all the way through yet. Just get them moving. Once they move, use proper size punch to push all the way out. FPNI Just make sure you’re pushing them from the correct side 
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Originally Posted By Slingblade2006: Put upper on concrete floor. Support FSB with something durable. You can use wood or buy a cheap plastic FSB block. Use a large flat faced punch and hammer to start the pins from small side to large side. You don't have to punch all the way through yet. Just get them moving. Once they move, use proper size punch to push all the way out. This part is key. I had a friend call me up all worked up one time because he couldn't get them out. I asked if he was pushing from the small side of the taper pin and his response was "they're tapered?!". Not saying you didn't know (post didn't indicate one way or another), but it's happened before so bears mentioning. Edit: beat.
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| Yes, I was aware they are tapered, but definitely worth mentioning. Dremel might actually be a good solution. I am looking to transition from a magpul handguard to a free float mlock. I suppose I could cut off the sight and install. There’s no going back from that though. |
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Originally Posted By TGWLDR: I use a section of 5/8" brass round as a drift to shock them loose initially then drive them out the rest of the way with a standard punch. I had to use a steel punch because my brass punches were bending. I could see a 5/8" brass rod doing well. |
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Originally Posted By Moondog: I had to use a steel punch because my brass punches were bending. I could see a 5/8" brass rod doing well. Originally Posted By Moondog: Originally Posted By TGWLDR: I use a section of 5/8" brass round as a drift to shock them loose initially then drive them out the rest of the way with a standard punch. I had to use a steel punch because my brass punches were bending. I could see a 5/8" brass rod doing well. Yeah, I started out with smaller diameter with similar results. I've done more than a dozen now with the 5/8" rod that I'm currently using. |
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Originally Posted By tawaggs: I’m thinking I might cut the front sight off the block. Tell me about your experiences with that so I can decide. Is it a FSB installed by PSA? Cut it off. Anyone else? Pound the pins out. |
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They only go one way. Look close at them and you will see the small end and large end. Beat on the small end. I use nail punches. Start with the big one - finish with the medium one. Once they pop loose they will go easy. I use Kobalt ones mostly - but they are no longer available. I have also used These ones with good results. They have a hollow point design that really fits the contour of the pins. Do yourself a favor - get a armorer's block - or drill a hole in a hockey puck. Also a 2lb brass hammer from Harbor Freight really does the job.  I've removed hundreds of them. I rarely have an issue unless a pin is broken already - fractured pins can be difficult. Good luck. |
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I don't know what trouble some people have with PSA FSBs pins, but they come out the same as any other in my experience. Personally I would knock the pins out and carefully cut and shave down the FSB to use as the low profile gas block as you will never get a more secure replacement, and once its in place you never have to worry about it coming loose under hard use. This is how my go-to 14.5" pin-n-weld upper is set up. |
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Originally Posted By WrenchGuy: I don't know what trouble some people have with PSA FSBs pins, but they come out the same as any other in my experience. Personally I would knock the pins out and carefully cut and shave down the FSB to use as the low profile gas block as you will never get a more secure replacement, and once its in place you never have to worry about it coming loose under hard use. This is how my go-to 14.5" pin-n-weld upper is set up. Also, the FSB you remove is for all intents and purposes useless so you might as well use it as a LPGB. Its called "shaving" and only takes 10 minutes or less. I usually hit it with some black barbecue paint when I am done. Most lo pro blocks won't cover the forward pin location anyways. ETA - I'm aware some companies do offer a service to install already drilled FSB onto other barrels. I don't know why you would unless you had some super rare FSB or something like that. The LaRue lo pro block will cover the forward taper pin location as an FYI. |
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Just an FYI, Curtis at VSO gun channel on YouTube mentioned a while back that this is his preferred configuration for free floating his personal uppers...shave down the FSB and run it under the rail. Not that what he says is gospel or anything, just be aware this is a common route due to the bomb proof nature of the installation. |
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Doing a full shave on an FSB is pretty time consuming. Might be a couple hours of dremeling or even more so you are satisified the handguard won't touch it. I'd remove it then put one of these on. It covers the taper pin holes. https://midwestindustriesinc.com/low-profile-gas-block/ |
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Originally Posted By Frens: FPNI Just make sure you’re pushing them from the correct side Beat me to it. They’re pretty easy unless you’re going the wrong way. 
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Originally Posted By Andrewsky: Doing a full shave on an FSB is pretty time consuming. Might be a couple hours of dremeling or even more so you are satisified the handguard won't touch it. [...] Last time I wanted to cut an FSB -- removing the bayonet lug in my case -- I used an angle grinder and a used vise with some scrap hardwood to hold the FSB and act as a rough guide (to avoid cutting too deep). Then I used a grinding wheel to finish it. Cutting <2 mins. Use leather gloves (FSB HOT). Grinding ~ 5 mins. But even with a Dremel, using a large cutoff wheel, it should not take hours for most people to shave an FSB.... unless you're REALLY limited in your bit selection, I suppose. There's also some points where a good hand-held metal file is faster at the cleanup work than a Dremel. |
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Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: Last time I wanted to cut an FSB -- removing the bayonet lug in my case -- I used an angle grinder and a used vise with some scrap hardwood to hold the FSB and act as a rough guide (to avoid cutting too deep). Then I used a grinding wheel to finish it. Cutting <2 mins. Use leather gloves (FSB HOT). Grinding ~ 5 mins. But even with a Dremel, using a large cutoff wheel, it should not take hours for most people to shave an FSB.... unless you're REALLY limited in your bit selection, I suppose. There's also some points where a good hand-held metal file is faster at the cleanup work than a Dremel. |
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