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Posted: 7/29/2026 3:39:20 PM EDT
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I have done/will be doing my 80% lowers with a 5D Tactical 80% jig. This jig leaves a small area to preclude installing an auto-sear, but am wondering if the area will also preclude an FRT from operating properly. Inquiring minds wanna know. |
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If it’s anything like the Colt lowers it does block most FRTs. Trigger kicker should work. Post a picture because I was considering buying a 5D jig to mill out my Colt lowers. 2013 era 6920s, 6720s, 6951s with the aluminum sear web not the 90’s steel sear blocks. |
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Originally Posted By 1BMF: If it’s anything like the Colt lowers it does block most FRTs. Trigger kicker should work. Post a picture because I was considering buying a 5D jig to mill out my Colt lowers. 2013 era 6920s, 6720s, 6951s with the aluminum sear web not the 90’s steel sear blocks. You can do a Colt lower sear block quite easily with a Dremel and endmill or Dremel and 1 1/2" cut-off wheel. I did several with a 1 1/2" cut-off wheel primarily, and a bit of fine work with an endmill. 
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Practice, the master of all things. - Augustus
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Aimpoint Comp M3 w/ Lens Covers
IG: @cqbr.kurdt
Looking for: Savannah Mk18 RIS II in light blonde/bronze - LMT SOPMOD Gen 1 Tan - Aimpoint Comp M3 w/ Lens Covers
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Originally Posted By krdt: You can do a Colt lower sear block quite easily with a Dremel and endmill or Dremel and 1 1/2" cut-off wheel. I did several with a 1 1/2" cut-off wheel primarily, and a bit of fine work with an endmill. https://i.imgur.com/lXO2Z2n.jpeg Originally Posted By krdt: Originally Posted By 1BMF: If it’s anything like the Colt lowers it does block most FRTs. Trigger kicker should work. Post a picture because I was considering buying a 5D jig to mill out my Colt lowers. 2013 era 6920s, 6720s, 6951s with the aluminum sear web not the 90’s steel sear blocks. You can do a Colt lower sear block quite easily with a Dremel and endmill or Dremel and 1 1/2" cut-off wheel. I did several with a 1 1/2" cut-off wheel primarily, and a bit of fine work with an endmill. https://i.imgur.com/lXO2Z2n.jpeg Nice. I might do that. Another option is to use this as an excuse to buy a mill. I could 3d print the jig. |
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Originally Posted By Retroguy2: I have done/will be doing my 80% lowers with a 5D Tactical 80% jig. This jig leaves a small area to preclude installing an auto-sear, but am wondering if the area will also preclude an FRT from operating properly. Inquiring minds wanna know. The only 80% AR lower I have running a super safety (Arc fire V2) is cut on a 5d tac and runs like a champ. |
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i have several 80s that i have installed FRT's in - they all run great. As stated, the cut can vary so you can be stacking tolerances - but no reason you cant go in and fix anything offending - i mill all mine low shelf, AR cut (with the bump) so no concerns generally. biggest items ive observed are : a: is the cut on center and square. if its off that can be a problem with aligning the tail of the hammer relative to the frt selector b: is the pocket correct depth - 1.249 c: are the selector, hammer and trigger holes square? if not there can be a misalignment that causes problems with frt's but not with a standard AR selector. this can be a thing if you have any misalignment in the jig or allow a standard 135 degree bit to dig in how it wants through use of a drill for the holes, it will be off center one way on one side and the other for the other... i use a center drill to start the holes to avoid this having seen that in early 80's i made. 1/10 of a mm in the hole can mean the tail of the trigger missed by a full mm, misaligning the frt. |
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