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Posted: 2/16/2026 9:42:20 PM EDT
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Just recently picked up a Surefire M640DFT Pro kit for my AR upper. Plan to run it as is for now (with the included clicky-tail-cap). Was looking at possibly upgrading to a DS-SR07 tailcap / pressure switch combo, or the UE-SR07 combo. I like the idea of running the switch at 12 o'clock to make it truly an ambi set-up. Im sure like everything, there is trade-offs. Ambi set-up will gain some weight, and additional parts to possibly fail. Is this more of a personal preference as to one vs the other? |
| Personal preference. I used to use tape switches for lights. I've since moved away. I've never had one work 100% of the time. They will work great and then there is the one time you hit the switch and get flickering and dim light. You then have to full auto mash the switch to make it work. I have used Surefire, Modlite, and Unity. I spent a lot of money on a Unity Gascap setup and it does the same thing as every other switch. I have not had any issues with a momentary/on off clicky tail cap. |
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I used to be a switch guy but have reverted. I prefer the simplicity and reliability of a click tailcap. Lights are an area I’ve really fallen off on though. I’ve spent a lot of money on lights that can light up a field to engage multiple spread out targets or allow me to shoot at 150 yards. I’ve never done either of those things in the dark. |
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Like most things, it comes down to the use of the tool. Activating your light by accident is not good. A pressure switch in the wrong place is ill advised b/c you'll hit it by accident. Example, I have a clone-ish mk18 mod0 build where i put the tape switch on the broomstick. It's fun and neat, but not optimal. I keep that one on IR so I don't light up a dark space and blind folks. Alot depends on how you hold your gun, what rail it has maybe, and what other gear is sitting on that rifle. If you have a laser also, and the gun is 11.5 or 10.5, it can get awkward to place buttons at 12pm and be able to reach them. My 14.5 gun doesn't carry a laser so I do have a button at 12pm (Noxon Fuse on an Arisaka). |
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Originally Posted By Marksman14: Tape switches for me, because its the only way I can get consistency in placement across various length setups. Big fan of the unity USB-C setup. Absolutely loathe surefires's connector. Agree, glad it's not just me. I have had issues with multiple surefire setups using their switches. My Arisaka built light with malkov head and NOXON cap and button has been chef's kiss. |
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One easy solution to a tap switch failure is get the dual caps so if your tape switch fails, your regular button is right there. I've used Streamlight tape switches w/Jack caps, and Unity gascap/axon switches. Now: I don't much care for the Streamlight switches or similar long/flat tape switch designs; they have several downsides for me: 1) They take up a lot of real estate. On most guns I'd have to put them exactly where my thumb naturally falls with a normal grip simply because there isn't much room to put them anywhere else even if I wanted to, and also pressing on the edge of them is not very consistent/reliable for making them work as intended. So really... you have to position your thumb in the center of a large switch pad.... 2) This makes them very easy to activate by accident - as mentioned, not ideal 3) You don't get full lumen output from the Streamlight tape switch. I understand Surefires are similar. You can easily see this by activating the switch, then activating the normal button, and you will see a small but clearly noticeable step up in brightness. The Gascap/Axon switch fixes all these issues. Takes up less space. The button being angled makes it both very fast and easily accessible, but requires a much more deliberate action to put your thumb on the button to activate it. The back of the gascap is a full size standard click button so you won't have to hunt for your backup button in the dark. You get full lumens from the switch or the button. Overall I like this setup quite a bit. My only gripe is the mounting brackets for the Axon switch are cheesy plastic; they should be aluminum, and it appears Unity has non existent customer service if you lose or break anything. But once you get it on/set up correctly, it works very well. |
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I use tape switches for all lights with the exception of one. That one is the white light on my NV setup. The tape switch operates the IR illuminator and laser. Having a clicky tailcap on the white light helps to prevent negligent WL discharge since it needs to be deliberately activated via the tailcap. All of my other lights have tape switches because it allows for ambidextrous activation by mounting the switch at 12:00 |
“Necessary? Is it necessary for me to drink my own urine? No, but I do it anyway because it’s sterile and I like the taste.” -Patches O’Houlihan
2023/24 Arfcom FPL Champion
2023/24 Arfcom FPL Champion
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Originally Posted By BlindFaith429: Just recently picked up a Surefire M640DFT Pro kit for my AR upper. Plan to run it as is for now (with the included clicky-tail-cap). Was looking at possibly upgrading to a DS-SR07 tailcap / pressure switch combo, or the UE-SR07 combo. I like the idea of running the switch at 12 o'clock to make it truly an ambi set-up. Im sure like everything, there is trade-offs. Ambi set-up will gain some weight, and additional parts to possibly fail. Is this more of a personal preference as to one vs the other? The real question is why do you care about ambi? Are you left handed? If not, are you so good right handed you are winning local 3 gun matches everything and need a new challenge? Are you doing rifle quals for work left handed because you are bored and still score 100 everytime? Are you doing pig hunts at night left handed because right handed is too boring and easy? If not, you really have zero reason to shoot left handed or transition to your left shoulder during room clearing or any other situation that does not involve injury to the dominant side. I see so many young officers trying to transition to weak shoulder to gain an inch or two of advantage on weakside cover and give up .17 splits with all A zone hits at 5 yards for .20 splits with a Charlie or two thrown in using their weak side... not to mention the half a second your rifle is down while transitioning each and every time you approach a weak side barrier opening. I'd stick to your 0 secs of down time, faster splits, and better accuracy until you are so good you have nothing better to do but shoot wrong handed out of boredom. Switching shoulders is soooo overrated for 99% of shooters. |
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Another vote for clicky. Less is better. All my long guns use the same setup, even my SBS. I use M340s with the M-lok mount, and, it just works. One piece. No light ND. I have 100 concept covers or knockoffs for each light. Simple. Direct. Effective. |
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