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Posted: 6/2/2013 4:51:57 PM EDT
[#1]
Magpul fixed carbine stock on a Centurion Arms 14" CMR rail with 18" barrel
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Posted: 6/3/2013 3:19:51 AM EDT
[#2]
Originally Posted By Stickman: Magpul fixed carbine stock on a Centurion Arms 14" CMR rail with 18" barrel http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3766/8927659234_5d9ea5bfcb_o.jpg Aww please post a pic with a variable "SPR" scope cause this rail wold be perfect for that imo. |
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Posted: 6/3/2013 9:49:01 PM EDT
[#3]
Did you say Magpul MSA?
Without taking off the tabs you can angle it as shown below, just make sure you use a 8/32 screw. 
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Posted: 6/3/2013 9:52:53 PM EDT
[#4]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Did you say Magpul MSA? Without taking off the tabs you can angle it as shown below, just make sure you use a 8/32 screw. http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Centurion%20Arms%202/STCK5527-1200-Stick.jpg Any word on when the grip panels will be available? Maybe you've mentioned it somewhere and I missed it... |
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Posted: 6/4/2013 1:56:52 AM EDT
[#5]
Originally Posted By coregon:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Did you say Magpul MSA? Without taking off the tabs you can angle it as shown below, just make sure you use a 8/32 screw. http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Centurion%20Arms%202/STCK5527-1200-Stick.jpg Any word on when the grip panels will be available? Maybe you've mentioned it somewhere and I missed it... I don't remember where I read it, but I think I remember hearing something about a couple months |
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Posted: 6/4/2013 9:23:01 AM EDT
[#6]
Originally Posted By Engel12626: Originally Posted By coregon: Originally Posted By Stickman: Did you say Magpul MSA? Without taking off the tabs you can angle it as shown below, just make sure you use a 8/32 screw. http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Centurion%20Arms%202/STCK5527-1200-Stick.jpg Any word on when the grip panels will be available? Maybe you've mentioned it somewhere and I missed it... I don't remember where I read it, but I think I remember hearing something about a couple months It will probably be released with the handstop they are making as a combo hopefully. |
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Posted: 6/4/2013 9:37:06 AM EDT
[#7]
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Originally Posted By Engel12626:
Originally Posted By coregon:
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Did you say Magpul MSA? Without taking off the tabs you can angle it as shown below, just make sure you use a 8/32 screw. http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Centurion%20Arms%202/STCK5527-1200-Stick.jpg Any word on when the grip panels will be available? Maybe you've mentioned it somewhere and I missed it... I don't remember where I read it, but I think I remember hearing something about a couple months It will probably be released with the handstop they are making as a combo hopefully. Are there any pictures out there of the handstop? |
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Posted: 6/4/2013 10:33:10 AM EDT
[#8]
Originally Posted By coregon:
Are there any pictures out there of the handstop? No, there are not. |
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Posted: 6/4/2013 10:33:23 AM EDT
[#9]
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Posted: 6/4/2013 3:45:23 PM EDT
[#10]
Originally Posted By coregon: Originally Posted By jukeboxx13: Originally Posted By Engel12626: Originally Posted By coregon: Originally Posted By Stickman: Did you say Magpul MSA? Without taking off the tabs you can angle it as shown below, just make sure you use a 8/32 screw. http://stickman.rainierarms.com/galleries/Centurion%20Arms%202/STCK5527-1200-Stick.jpg Any word on when the grip panels will be available? Maybe you've mentioned it somewhere and I missed it... I don't remember where I read it, but I think I remember hearing something about a couple months It will probably be released with the handstop they are making as a combo hopefully. Are there any pictures out there of the handstop? If there were than Stickman should have it up by now. |
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Posted: 6/5/2013 2:27:36 PM EDT
[#11]
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Originally Posted By coregon:
Are there any pictures out there of the handstop? If there were than Stickman should have it up by now. I'm pretty sure you are right. |
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Posted: 6/5/2013 2:27:48 PM EDT
[#12]
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Posted: 6/5/2013 2:29:46 PM EDT
[#13]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Originally Posted By coregon:
Are there any pictures out there of the handstop? If there were than Stickman should have it up by now. I'm pretty sure you are right. Well, i'm excited for the grip panels, light mount and now the handstop 
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Posted: 6/5/2013 2:46:30 PM EDT
[#14]
So the mbus wont fit up front with the mini scout or does it? |
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Posted: 6/5/2013 4:51:10 PM EDT
[#15]
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
So the mbus wont fit up front with the mini scout or does it? Not with this setup, but I don't mount my sight all the way forward, so I haven't played around to see if there is a way to make it work. With this setup I can pull off the Scout and throw a X300 up top without needing to rezero. |
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Posted: 6/5/2013 5:36:03 PM EDT
[#16]
Originally Posted By Dissident:
Any pics of a 12 on a 12.5" upper? Something wicked this way comes, I'll post it up in a little bit. I like to throw up new pics to my facebook page first, but I'll post it up here soon as well. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/5/2013 6:20:15 PM EDT
[#17]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By Dissident:
Any pics of a 12 on a 12.5" upper? Something wicked this way comes, I'll post it up in a little bit. I like to throw up new pics to my facebook page first, but I'll post it up here soon as well. just seen it on FB 
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Posted: 6/5/2013 9:20:13 PM EDT
[#18]
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Posted: 6/6/2013 11:53:19 PM EDT
[#19]
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UT, USA
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Posted: 6/8/2013 7:46:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: DWCOYOTE]
[#20]
Originally Posted By Bronc:
A lot of guys are using the DD Lite Rail wrench by filing down the 2 unneeded tabs. I'm sorry, but this was not good advice. I would really like to know who has used this successfully. I thought it sounded great. The wrench is cheap and compact. It made sense. I ordered one up. It got here today and I started by grinding off the two unusable tabs. I tested on the barrel and right off ran into a problem. It was your classic square peg/round hole scenario. The remaining tab on the DD wrench is far too large and square to fit the Centurion barrel nut. I broke out the trusty file set and went to work for an hour and a half making a round peg that almost perfectly fit the barrel nut. 
I applied the anti-seize grease, attached this to the torque wrench and fit it up to the barrel nut. I had a taped-up flat head screw driver that I slid in between the wrench and barrel nut opposite of the pin to pull the remaining pin on the wrench into the barrel nut. It started well and I definitely got some torque on there, but then I could feel something give. I stopped and looked at the wrench. The pin was slightly bent but not too bad. I dialed the torque wrench down to 40lbs to see if I had at least that much torque on it. As soon as I applied any real force the wrench just turned and broke loose. This is what is left. There just was not enough strength in the single filed-down pin to handle the job. 
I am back to square one on the wrench situation. Several days of waiting, a couple hours of labor, and $15 down the drain. I am posting this as a warning to others. THE DD WRENCH IS NOT THE TOOL FOR THIS JOB!!!! To make things worse, I put things together to mock it up and make sure it would be problem free once I get the right wrench. It wasn't. My Noveske N4 Barrel came with a low-pro gas block with the taper pin pre machined. That block was quite a way from fitting under the rail. I removed as much metal as I dared and still only have about 1/32" clearance between the rail and block. What I thought was the rail of my dreams is rapidly becoming the stuff of nightmares. On the other hand, it sure looks great! Here is the upper in mock up. 
Edit to add: The barrel is a 14.5" with the 12" CMR and a PWS Triad FH. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 6/8/2013 10:49:24 PM EDT
[#21]
Regarding the gas block: is the gas block itself too wide, or too big on the bottom, or is the taper pin sticking out too far from side to side? Pictures here might be helpful to others. I used a Syrac adjustable on my .308, it was tight on the bottom but fit fine as long as the barrel was dimpled so the set screws were flush when fully tightened.
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Posted: 6/8/2013 11:05:08 PM EDT
[#22]
Stick, will three of the pre-production rail covers fit per side on the 12"? All your pics show 2.
Also, am I correct in assuming the rail covers only mount to the 3:00 and 9:00 positions and not 6:00? These look very tempting... |
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UT, USA
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Posted: 6/9/2013 12:59:01 AM EDT
[#23]
Originally Posted By Forester458:
Regarding the gas block: is the gas block itself too wide, or too big on the bottom, or is the taper pin sticking out too far from side to side? Pictures here might be helpful to others. I used a Syrac adjustable on my .308, it was tight on the bottom but fit fine as long as the barrel was dimpled so the set screws were flush when fully tightened. Too big on the bottom. The taper pin goes through that section so you can only take away so much. |
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Posted: 6/9/2013 2:01:43 AM EDT
[#24]
Originally Posted By heavyduty:
Stick, will three of the pre-production rail covers fit per side on the 12"? All your pics show 2. Also, am I correct in assuming the rail covers only mount to the 3:00 and 9:00 positions and not 6:00? These look very tempting... They function on the 6:00 as well, but since there is a very limited number of the preproduction pieces, I don't place them there. |
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Posted: 6/9/2013 2:32:16 AM EDT
[#25]
Originally Posted By Stickman:
Originally Posted By heavyduty:
Stick, will three of the pre-production rail covers fit per side on the 12"? All your pics show 2. Also, am I correct in assuming the rail covers only mount to the 3:00 and 9:00 positions and not 6:00? These look very tempting... They function on the 6:00 as well, but since there is a very limited number of the preproduction pieces, I don't place them there. Thanks! What about the three panels on the side of the 12"? |
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Posted: 6/9/2013 1:12:57 PM EDT
[#26]
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USA
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Posted: 6/10/2013 1:36:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Slippers]
[#27]
Originally Posted By DWCOYOTE:
Originally Posted By Bronc:
A lot of guys are using the DD Lite Rail wrench by filing down the 2 unneeded tabs. I'm sorry, but this was not good advice. I would really like to know who has used this successfully. I thought it sounded great. The wrench is cheap and compact. It made sense. I ordered one up. It got here today and I started by grinding off the two unusable tabs. I tested on the barrel and right off ran into a problem. It was your classic square peg/round hole scenario. The remaining tab on the DD wrench is far too large and square to fit the Centurion barrel nut. I broke out the trusty file set and went to work for an hour and a half making a round peg that almost perfectly fit the barrel nut. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/utcoyotes/IMAG0667_zpseef34257.jpg I applied the anti-seize grease, attached this to the torque wrench and fit it up to the barrel nut. I had a taped-up flat head screw driver that I slid in between the wrench and barrel nut opposite of the pin to pull the remaining pin on the wrench into the barrel nut. It started well and I definitely got some torque on there, but then I could feel something give. I stopped and looked at the wrench. The pin was slightly bent but not too bad. I dialed the torque wrench down to 40lbs to see if I had at least that much torque on it. As soon as I applied any real force the wrench just turned and broke loose. This is what is left. There just was not enough strength in the single filed-down pin to handle the job. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/utcoyotes/IMAG0670_zps292e7e10.jpg I am back to square one on the wrench situation. Several days of waiting, a couple hours of labor, and $15 down the drain. I am posting this as a warning to others. THE DD WRENCH IS NOT THE TOOL FOR THIS JOB!!!! To make things worse, I put things together to mock it up and make sure it would be problem free once I get the right wrench. It wasn't. My Noveske N4 Barrel came with a low-pro gas block with the taper pin pre machined. That block was quite a way from fitting under the rail. I removed as much metal as I dared and still only have about 1/32" clearance between the rail and block. What I thought was the rail of my dreams is rapidly becoming the stuff of nightmares. On the other hand, it sure looks great! Here is the upper in mock up. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/utcoyotes/IMAG0656_zps94ce49d8.jpg Edit to add: The barrel is a 14.5" with the 12" CMR and a PWS Triad FH. I used a DD Lite wrench that I modified to fit the CMR barrel nut, and it worked perfectly. What did you have your torque wrench set to on the initial tightening? Only 30-40 ft lbs is necessary. Also, you can't go back and check how tight the barrel nut is using a torque wrench set to a lower value due to static friction. Once the barrel nut is tightened, it takes *much* more force to tighten it even further (you could torque a barrel nut to 40 ft lbs, and it will probably take 45-50 before it moves any further due to static friction). Tightening a barrel nut needs to be done in one smooth, continuous motion, with the torque wrench set to the proper value the *first* time. The only time you want to go back and tighten it more is if the barrel nut requires timing for the gas tube or a specific rail system like the Noveske NSR or Wilson TRIM. On the CMR you torque it to 30-40 ft lbs and you're done. You don't have to do anything else. More than likely you far exceeded the force the Lite wrench is able to withstand the first time, which weakened it. As shown in your pictures, the second attempt snapped it. I will say that my DD Lite wrench has an indentation on one side where the barrel nut was engaged, but it had no trouble making it to 40 ft/lbs of torque. |
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Posted: 6/10/2013 3:10:25 PM EDT
[#28]
Originally Posted By DWCOYOTE: Originally Posted By Bronc: A lot of guys are using the DD Lite Rail wrench by filing down the 2 unneeded tabs. I'm sorry, but this was not good advice. I would really like to know who has used this successfully. I thought it sounded great. The wrench is cheap and compact. It made sense. I ordered one up. It got here today and I started by grinding off the two unusable tabs. I tested on the barrel and right off ran into a problem. It was your classic square peg/round hole scenario. The remaining tab on the DD wrench is far too large and square to fit the Centurion barrel nut. I broke out the trusty file set and went to work for an hour and a half making a round peg that almost perfectly fit the barrel nut. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/utcoyotes/IMAG0667_zpseef34257.jpg I applied the anti-seize grease, attached this to the torque wrench and fit it up to the barrel nut. I had a taped-up flat head screw driver that I slid in between the wrench and barrel nut opposite of the pin to pull the remaining pin on the wrench into the barrel nut. It started well and I definitely got some torque on there, but then I could feel something give. I stopped and looked at the wrench. The pin was slightly bent but not too bad. I dialed the torque wrench down to 40lbs to see if I had at least that much torque on it. As soon as I applied any real force the wrench just turned and broke loose. This is what is left. There just was not enough strength in the single filed-down pin to handle the job. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/utcoyotes/IMAG0670_zps292e7e10.jpg I am back to square one on the wrench situation. Several days of waiting, a couple hours of labor, and $15 down the drain. I am posting this as a warning to others. THE DD WRENCH IS NOT THE TOOL FOR THIS JOB!!!! To make things worse, I put things together to mock it up and make sure it would be problem free once I get the right wrench. It wasn't. My Noveske N4 Barrel came with a low-pro gas block with the taper pin pre machined. That block was quite a way from fitting under the rail. I removed as much metal as I dared and still only have about 1/32" clearance between the rail and block. What I thought was the rail of my dreams is rapidly becoming the stuff of nightmares. On the other hand, it sure looks great! Here is the upper in mock up. http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn46/utcoyotes/IMAG0656_zps94ce49d8.jpg Edit to add: The barrel is a 14.5" with the 12" CMR and a PWS Triad FH. Very nice post a pic of the whole gun when its done. |
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Posted: 6/10/2013 3:12:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: jukeboxx13]
[#29]
Looks better with CTR vs ACS. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 6/10/2013 3:28:21 PM EDT
[#30]
Whats the I.D.?
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USA
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Posted: 6/10/2013 3:50:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Slippers]
[#31]
Originally Posted By Slacker:
Whats the I.D.? There are 3 ribs that run the full length on the inside of the tube at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions, which reinforce and provide enough depth for the 8-32 threaded holes along the sides and bottom. The measurement between the 3 and 9 o'clock ribs is 1.12 inches. The 6 o'clock rib is the same size as the others, and is responsible for causing clearance issues with almost all low-pro gas blocks except the Centurion gas block and shaved FSBs. The tube diameter without the ribs is slightly bigger, but obviously not really relevant if you're worried about gas block clearance. |
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NC, USA
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Posted: 6/10/2013 7:09:26 PM EDT
[#32]
Originally Posted By Slippers:
Originally Posted By Slacker:
Whats the I.D.? There are 3 ribs that run the full length on the inside of the tube at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions, which reinforce and provide enough depth for the 8-32 threaded holes along the sides and bottom. The measurement between the 3 and 9 o'clock ribs is 1.12 inches. The 6 o'clock rib is the same size as the others, and is responsible for causing clearance issues with almost all low-pro gas blocks except the Centurion gas block and shaved FSBs. The tube diameter without the ribs is slightly bigger, but obviously not really relevant if you're worried about gas block clearance. I asked because i thought i might fit a can inside. No dice. Thanks for the info! |
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UT, USA
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Posted: 6/10/2013 10:11:06 PM EDT
[#33]
Originally Posted By Slippers:
I used a DD Lite wrench that I modified to fit the CMR barrel nut, and it worked perfectly. What did you have your torque wrench set to on the initial tightening? Only 30-40 ft lbs is necessary. Also, you can't go back and check how tight the barrel nut is using a torque wrench set to a lower value due to static friction. Once the barrel nut is tightened, it takes *much* more force to tighten it even further (you could torque a barrel nut to 40 ft lbs, and it will probably take 45-50 before it moves any further due to static friction). Tightening a barrel nut needs to be done in one smooth, continuous motion, with the torque wrench set to the proper value the *first* time. The only time you want to go back and tighten it more is if the barrel nut requires timing for the gas tube or a specific rail system like the Noveske NSR or Wilson TRIM. On the CMR you torque it to 30-40 ft lbs and you're done. You don't have to do anything else. More than likely you far exceeded the force the Lite wrench is able to withstand the first time, which weakened it. As shown in your pictures, the second attempt snapped it. I will say that my DD Lite wrench has an indentation on one side where the barrel nut was engaged, but it had no trouble making it to 40 ft/lbs of torque. I initially had the torque wrench (click type) dialed to 50 ft lbs. I was applying in a smooth motion till something seemed to give. I think it had already snapped at that point, I just stopped before actually shearing off the pin. I dialed it down to 40 to see if the wrench would even click. It didn't. I probably didn't get to 20 ft lbs before the pin let go altogether. |
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Posted: 6/10/2013 10:20:16 PM EDT
[#34]
So Stick,
How will the 12 work with a 12.5 and SF mount and suppressor? |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 6/10/2013 10:44:15 PM EDT
[#35]
Originally Posted By Slippers:
There are 3 ribs that run the full length on the inside of the tube at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions, which reinforce and provide enough depth for the 8-32 threaded holes along the sides and bottom. The measurement between the 3 and 9 o'clock ribs is 1.12 inches. The 6 o'clock rib is the same size as the others, and is responsible for causing clearance issues with almost all low-pro gas blocks except the Centurion gas block and shaved FSBs. The tube diameter without the ribs is slightly bigger, but obviously not really relevant if you're worried about gas block clearance. From what I've seen so far, almost all low-pro set screw gas blocks will work if the barrel is dimpled. A few won't, and clamp-ons won't, but your typical Troy, PRI, YHM, etc. with set screws should be fine. |
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USA
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Posted: 6/10/2013 10:57:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Slippers]
[#36]
Originally Posted By Forester458:
Originally Posted By Slippers:
There are 3 ribs that run the full length on the inside of the tube at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions, which reinforce and provide enough depth for the 8-32 threaded holes along the sides and bottom. The measurement between the 3 and 9 o'clock ribs is 1.12 inches. The 6 o'clock rib is the same size as the others, and is responsible for causing clearance issues with almost all low-pro gas blocks except the Centurion gas block and shaved FSBs. The tube diameter without the ribs is slightly bigger, but obviously not really relevant if you're worried about gas block clearance. From what I've seen so far, almost all low-pro set screw gas blocks will work if the barrel is dimpled. A few won't, and clamp-ons won't, but your typical Troy, PRI, YHM, etc. with set screws should be fine. I'm speaking specifically of gas blocks with a set screw from the bottom, not clamp on style. Clamp on ones most definitely don't fit. Most of the set screw low pro gas blocks also don't work because they extend too far down and hit the bottom of the inside of the rail. There are numerous pictures of this on TOS, including the BCM low pro gas blocks, Vltor, and others. As for torque, of course you didn't get to 20 ft lbs on the second attempt. The wrench was already damaged. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 6/10/2013 11:58:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Forester458]
[#37]
Originally Posted By Slippers:
Originally Posted By Forester458:
From what I've seen so far, almost all low-pro set screw gas blocks will work if the barrel is dimpled. A few won't, and clamp-ons won't, but your typical Troy, PRI, YHM, etc. with set screws should be fine. I'm speaking specifically of gas blocks with a set screw from the bottom, not clamp on style. Clamp on ones most definitely don't fit. Most of the set screw low pro gas blocks also don't work because they extend too far down and hit the bottom of the inside of the rail. There are numerous pictures of this on TOS, including the BCM low pro gas blocks, Vltor, and others. I could see that, looks like those might have a little more meat on the bottom although other people have reported that the BCM does work on theirs. Stickman mentioned Centurion, BCM and Rainier working, and my Syrac adjustable .750" fit fine. I'd also be interested in hearing if any of the ones I mentioned earlier don't fit. |
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USA
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Posted: 6/11/2013 7:44:15 AM EDT
[#38]
Originally Posted By Forester458:
I could see that, looks like those might have a little more meat on the bottom although other people have reported that the BCM does work on theirs. Stickman mentioned Centurion, BCM and Rainier working, and my Syrac adjustable .750" fit fine. I'd also be interested in hearing if any of the ones I mentioned earlier don't fit. There are specific reports on TOS of the rainier and bcm not fitting. And there are reports of the bcm working, but being very close to hitting the rail. It may come down to tolerances and how straight your rail lines up once tightened down. |
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Posted: 6/11/2013 9:29:01 AM EDT
[#39]
larue doesn't fit even with a dimpled barrel.
can someone tell me how much clearance is needed from the lower rib to the part of the barrel the gas block mounts on? |
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USA
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Posted: 6/11/2013 10:30:21 AM EDT
[Last Edit: Slippers]
[#40]
Originally Posted By n3awalk3r:
larue doesn't fit even with a dimpled barrel.
can someone tell me how much clearance is needed from the lower rib to the part of the barrel the gas block mounts on? Assuming your 5.56 CMR tightens up perfectly aligned with the barrel (mine doesn't, it's just slightly offset), you will have 0.56" from barrel bore centerline to the bottom rib. With a 0.750" diameter barrel at the gas block you should have 0.1850" of clearance between the outer edge of the barrel and the bottom rib. With a 0.625" diameter barrel at the gas block you should have 0.2475" of clearance between the outer edge of the barrel and the bottom rib. |
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Posted: 6/11/2013 4:12:44 PM EDT
[#41]
Well now it works after grinding down the bottom of the gas block and screws.
I had a Larue 12.0 on it. This thing is much lighter and I love how thin it is. Only thing that sucks is I can't slip it over the suppressor mount to remove it. |
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Posted: 6/11/2013 4:23:44 PM EDT
[#42]
Originally Posted By n3awalk3r:
Well now it works after grinding down the bottom of the gas block and screws.
<a href="http://s480.photobucket.com/user/neawalker/media/Firearms/DSC_3279_zpsdb2faac3.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/Firearms/DSC_3279_zpsdb2faac3.jpg</a> I had a Larue 12.0 on it. This thing is much lighter and I love how thin it is. Only thing that sucks is I can't slip it over the suppressor mount to remove it. That is possibly the most beautiful gun I have ever seen. What barrel length? Any other details I need to know to copy it? :D |
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Posted: 6/11/2013 5:30:06 PM EDT
[#43]
Originally Posted By n3awalk3r: Well now it works after grinding down the bottom of the gas block and screws. http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/Firearms/DSC_3279_zpsdb2faac3.jpg I had a Larue 12.0 on it. This thing is much lighter and I love how thin it is. Only thing that sucks is I can't slip it over the suppressor mount to remove it. That's gorgeous. Which gas block did you use and how much material did you take off? Also, would you mind taking a pic of how the gas block looks mounted? |
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Posted: 6/11/2013 5:59:01 PM EDT
[#44]
Do we have a list of gas blocks that will work?
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Posted: 6/11/2013 8:50:43 PM EDT
[Last Edit: SlowpokeRodriguez]
[#45]
I probably ground off the thickness of a a dime. For the screws I just took the tips off. Finished with grill paint.
If you go to the LT site here: http://www.laruetactical.com/larue-tactical-low-profile-gas-block-lt-202 You can see it is fatter on the bottom. I had to shave it so it was just about circular all the way around. It is a .750 gas block. If there's one that ifs I'd buy that one instead! |
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Posted: 6/11/2013 9:01:14 PM EDT
[Last Edit: SlowpokeRodriguez]
[#46]
Originally Posted By Norinco982lover:
Originally Posted By n3awalk3r:
Well now it works after grinding down the bottom of the gas block and screws.
<a href="http://s480.photobucket.com/user/neawalker/media/Firearms/DSC_3279_zpsdb2faac3.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i480.photobucket.com/albums/rr170/neawalker/Firearms/DSC_3279_zpsdb2faac3.jpg</a> I had a Larue 12.0 on it. This thing is much lighter and I love how thin it is. Only thing that sucks is I can't slip it over the suppressor mount to remove it. That is possibly the most beautiful gun I have ever seen. What barrel length? Any other details I need to know to copy it? :D 14" rail, 16" barrel. Larue UDE color grip and stock. I wish they made one of these in 9 or 9.5" |
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Posted: 6/12/2013 7:47:54 AM EDT
[#47]
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack: Do we have a list of gas blocks that will work? +1? |
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Posted: 6/12/2013 2:05:05 PM EDT
[#48]
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Do we have a list of gas blocks that will work? You can add Seekins Precision adjustable gas block to the list - it's a close fit and getting to the set screw is tight - but it works (for me anyway). |
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USA
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Posted: 6/12/2013 10:05:55 PM EDT
[#49]
I just ordered the 14" CMR so I'd like to know for sure if it will fit a govt profile BCM set screw gas block (.750). Will i have an issue?
Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Do we have a list of gas blocks that will work? +1? |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2013 10:43:00 PM EDT
[#50]
Originally Posted By sloppyrob:
I just ordered the 14" CMR so I'd like to know for sure if it will fit a govt profile BCM set screw gas block (.750). Will i have an issue? Originally Posted By jukeboxx13:
Originally Posted By Combat_Jack:
Do we have a list of gas blocks that will work? +1? Roger that. Any one from Centurion available to set it straight? I have a 12" on the way. |
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