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Posted: 10/26/2024 9:12:35 PM EDT
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I've heard from several sources that CLR is very effective at cleaning carbon and can be used to clean firearms. For those that have some experience with cleaning firearms with CLR, what are some rules to follow? TIA. |
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I would stay far away from using CLR on any firearm, as it is acid. It may eat the finishes off the aluminum and steel. From the CLR website: Calcium, Lime, and Rust Remover may etch older sinks, tubs, and tiles. Avoid contact with wood, clothing, wallpaper, carpeting, natural stones, brass, copper, aluminum, galvanized metals, any painted, coated or sealed surfaces. Clean spills immediately. CY6 Greg Sullivan "Sully" Weapons Armorer SLR15 Rifles DefensiveEdge.com (763) 712-0123 |
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Originally Posted By kymarkh: Too many great gun-specific cleaners out there to mess with home products like CLR To be honest the list of firearms specific chemical cleaners that work as fast as CLR is very short. Actually there might not be any. That's why CLR became popular briefly. Unfortunately that strong chemical that makes it work fast, also makes it dangerous to barrels if you ever make a mistake. You can ruin a barrel in hours if you forget about it, and I know everyone has been there at least once. There are some, not a ton of chemicals that do work well enough with vastly less risk of damage. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=https://www.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DoFYOVxU6OkA&ved=2ahUKEwjl_t2swLCJAxVKv4kEHaF1Ai8QwqsBegQIDxAF&usg=AOvVaw0takqYvH083saepITmVXqf |
| There's not specifically special about a gun that makes it required to use specialized cleaning products. You can use soap and water to clean it just as well as if you cleaned any other kind of metal out there. Just don't let any water to stay and keep it oiled. |
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Originally Posted By lysanderxiii: Do you have hard water stains on the rifle? Yes. I bath with it and try to use shaving foam to clean the star chamber, and walked away with calcium build-up, so much so that the bullets barely squirt out of the end of the barrel. Seriously though, I was watching a sotar video and he mentioned CLR for cleaning purposes. I have a gallon of it from other uses and know how strong it is, and came here to ask to gage its potential for firearms use. Gun specific carbon cutter isn't cheap, per oz, and brake cleaner can be a bit much sometimes. I'm just poking my nose around seeing what others may have tried. |
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Originally Posted By sigman68: I tried one of those foaming shower cleaners recently on an upper receiver that had a ton of carbon residue. It seemed to do a good job and I see no signs of corrosion. There's probably a lot of solutions we could use that would do a great job, but others would caution against using. However, if it's used for a short time and thoroughly rinsed, it should be okay. Just guessing though. |
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Originally Posted By RD20: I meant CLR because I have an abundance of it and heard how well it cleans firearms. Okay, just double checking. I would never have thought of using CLR, which is why I was confused |
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CLR is popular with precision rifle shooters with stainless barrels and muzzle brakes. Google it and decide for yourself. It voids some warranties. It will remove blue and other finishes and can rust non stainless steel. I have used it many times and it worked great. One time I left my suppressor baffles soaking overnight and it removed a lot of the nitride finish. I am very careful with using it now. I have also seen online having it effect the finish on nitrided muzzle devices. |
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CLR can etch stainless steel. The suppressor OEMs all seem to say CLR can be safely used on titanium. I also hate the way CLR smells. I've experimented with Pine Sol, Simple Green Extreme/Pro HD, Dawn soap, and just water. Pine Sol is the most aggressive and seems to work the fastest. I can either soak my aluminum baffles in Pine Sol w/ water for 4 hours and the carbon wipes off. Or run it in an Ultrasonic for 30 minutes. Either way the Pine Sol WILL strip off the black oxide or any anodizing from your parts. So don't leave it in too long. Black nitrided parts will come out without the black oxide if left too long. The anodized aluminum baffles will look a bit dull. The Simple Green Extreme/Pro HD is less aggressive and seems to do a good job without damaging the finish. Dawn soap and water pretty much did nothing. My normal Ultrasonic go-to is Simple Green Extreme/Pro HD as it is less aggressive and does the 85% solution on my baffles. There's no need to get them mirror shiny. |
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Originally Posted By metroplex: CLR can etch stainless steel. The suppressor OEMs all seem to say CLR can be safely used on titanium. I also hate the way CLR smells. I've experimented with Pine Sol, Simple Green Extreme/Pro HD, Dawn soap, and just water. Pine Sol is the most aggressive and seems to work the fastest. I can either soak my aluminum baffles in Pine Sol w/ water for 4 hours and the carbon wipes off. Or run it in an Ultrasonic for 30 minutes. Either way the Pine Sol WILL strip off the black oxide or any anodizing from your parts. So don't leave it in too long. Black nitrided parts will come out without the black oxide if left too long. The anodized aluminum baffles will look a bit dull. The Simple Green Extreme/Pro HD is less aggressive and seems to do a good job without damaging the finish. Dawn soap and water pretty much did nothing. My normal Ultrasonic go-to is Simple Green Extreme/Pro HD as it is less aggressive and does the 85% solution on my baffles. There's no need to get them mirror shiny. Good information. Thank you for sharing! |
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Originally Posted By Renegade50: 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ Originally Posted By Renegade50: Originally Posted By RD20: I've heard from several sources that CLR is very effective at cleaning carbon and can be used to clean firearms. For those that have some experience with cleaning firearms with CLR, what are some rules to follow? TIA. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ 🤦♂️ 🤦♂️ 🤦♂️ |
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Originally Posted By metroplex: CLR can etch stainless steel. The suppressor OEMs all seem to say CLR can be safely used on titanium. I also hate the way CLR smells. I've experimented with Pine Sol, Simple Green Extreme/Pro HD, Dawn soap, and just water. Pine Sol is the most aggressive and seems to work the fastest. I can either soak my aluminum baffles in Pine Sol w/ water for 4 hours and the carbon wipes off. Or run it in an Ultrasonic for 30 minutes. Either way the Pine Sol WILL strip off the black oxide or any anodizing from your parts. So don't leave it in too long. Black nitrided parts will come out without the black oxide if left too long. The anodized aluminum baffles will look a bit dull. The Simple Green Extreme/Pro HD is less aggressive and seems to do a good job without damaging the finish. Dawn soap and water pretty much did nothing. My normal Ultrasonic go-to is Simple Green Extreme/Pro HD as it is less aggressive and does the 85% solution on my baffles. There's no need to get them mirror shiny. Doesn't Simple Green eat away at aluminum and finishes like CLR does? |
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CLR contains a couple types of acid. I won't use it on guns or suppressors. The stuff that shows great promise is Breakthrough suppressor cleaner. There have been a few Arf threads about it. It worked great on my .22 can. It contains DMSO, which is a potent solvent sometimes used to deliver medications through the skin. So wear gloves to keep it from delivering lead and other nasties through the skin. |
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CLR can etch stainless barrels if left too long, or not completely patched out and neutralized. Plenty of bore scope photos showing it. I wouldnt bother as a bore solvent. If you do, make sure to really patch it dry and then use alcohol patches, then oil well. But, still not worth it to me. Also, Surefire actually recommends CLR to clean their stainless suppressors. Its on their website. For whatever reason its OK for that. I just did it to mine a couple weeks ago with no issue. |
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