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BCA bolt action upper for $350? (Page 12 of 21)
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Looks like the 10.5" complete upper is on sale for $180. Imo that is the same cost as the upper alone. And you get a barrel. Handguard, and gas port cover out of it. Plan on replacing the barrel, but how heavy/bad are their new handguards? Attached File |
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I received my bolt and upper. Going to use my own barrel and handguard. Don't like their handguards and the barrel nut s are typically "welded" in place...haha...just incredibly tight. May do 2 uppers in the end. 9mm and 300BLK. I am going 10.5" barrel. Cannot decide if I should go standard handguard length or do alonger one to tuck the suppressor inside. |
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Originally Posted By AL1EN: Think your reasoning is correct, might as well get the full upper. worst case the handguard is crap then just through it on E exchange someone will buy it. I had a 15" laying around and that thing felt like it weighed 18 oz. I honestly turned it into a cheater bar |
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I wanted to try one so ordered the 16" 762x39 along with an 18" 6.5 Grendel barrel and a 10 rd mag that would work for both... I originally thought of just ordering the receiver and bolt combo but the complete upper was cheaper with the handguard than buying the pieces. Shipping was quick- only a few days, the overall out-of-the-box F&F wasn't bad, especially for the price. Milsurp x39 printed about 1.5~2moa and 100fps faster than my AK. The bolt is a little rough and takes some getting used to - to retract it you need to add pressure toward the left side of the receiver - taking the buffer & spring out helps too. While cleaning my borescope showed a fairly decent bore, but the chamber shoulder had some grime/debris welded on that I couldn't polish out - so I sent the barrel back.  Then I installed the 6.5G barrel and went back to the range. 123gr Hornady Black ELDM was the best of the day at 1.1MOA - I expected better. This one also went back due to scoring rings in the chamber (those are 3/8" below the shoulder)...  The bolt receiver is usable and a heckofalot cheaper than the alternative but their barrels leave a lot to be desired... C/S took about a week to respond but they gave me an RMA and return shipping label without any hassle-so 5 stars for that... now to see what they send me back. |
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Originally Posted By bendigo78: Do yourself a favor and dont look a $50 barrel in the mouth (with a borescope). Keep track of the cost of ammo used in this endeavor, you're going to want to reflect on this later. Correct answer. |
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Never mistake a clear view for a short distance.
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Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Looks like the 10.5" complete upper is on sale for $180. Imo that is the same cost as the upper alone. And you get a barrel. Handguard, and gas port cover out of it. Plan on replacing the barrel, but how heavy/bad are their new handguards? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/333164/5_56-nato-10_5-416rss-m4-barrel-bolt-act-3562693.JPG This also ensures they don't forget any parts, too. No chance of missing screws, lack of a barrel collar, etc. Even if you ONLY use the parts in common with the upper kit, it's is a good buy to build up a parts-bin for future use or trade. Only reason not to choose this upper over a kit is if you want a backup bolt other than the 5.56NATO/.300blk/.350L. |
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Originally Posted By SyberSniper: I wanted to try one so ordered the 16" 762x39 along with an 18" 6.5 Grendel barrel and a 10 rd mag that would work for both... I originally thought of just ordering the receiver and bolt combo but the complete upper was cheaper with the handguard than buying the pieces.[...] While cleaning my borescope showed a fairly decent bore, but the chamber shoulder had some grime/debris welded on that I couldn't polish out - so I sent the barrel back. The bolt receiver is usable and a heckofalot cheaper than the alternative but their barrels leave a lot to be desired... C/S took about a week to respond but they gave me an RMA and return shipping label without any hassle-so 5 stars for that... now to see what they send me back. BCA UPPER RECEIVER, BOLT CARRIER, PROPRIETARY PARTS = INNOVATIVE & GOOD; ROOM f/ IMPROVEMENTS BCA BARRELS, BOLTS = FUNCTIONAL; AVERAGE to TERRIBLE ACCURACY BCA HANDGUARDS = FUNCTIONAL If you're gonna go to the effort of putting a different barrel than assembled, you may want to pay the money for a better barrel if you desire a better barrel. There's a good chance you won't be satisfied with what BCA sends back to you. Their barrels are typically functional, but BCA chooses production speed and quantity over machining precision and quality control, in order to keep prices down. This is not a favorable environment for the gestation and birth of a healthy precision barrel. |
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The BCA stuff is definitely a budget friendly brand and in no way shape or form close to the best money can buy, but everything I have got from them so far is perfectly acceptable for the price I paid. Side quest: I recently rolled the dice on a BCA side charging 556 upper. $188 to my door (ordered it in April.) I don't have a ton of rounds through it, but it runs great. I did have to blue locktite the handguard screws. Attached File I also just got one of their 22LR dedicated side charging uppers and the thing runs excellent. So far it has ran every type of 22LR ammo I have tried in it using the Black Dog mags. Federal, Winchester, Remington, different kinds of all. So far it is most accurate with the Remington golden stuff. It's not super accurate but it's a fun plinker. |
Originally Posted By ar-jedi:
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
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Are there any differences between the 5.56/300 uppers and the 450 uppers besides the bolt? In then pictures the ejection port looks to be the same size. I might grab another 5.56 upper and rebuild.it into a .458 (it's just cheaper that way) |
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Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Are there any differences between the 5.56/300 uppers and the 450 uppers besides the bolt? In then pictures the ejection port looks to be the same size. I might grab another 5.56 upper and rebuild.it into a .458 (it's just cheaper that way) All indications are no. The 5.56 ejection port dimensions are such that opening it further starts to remove bearing surfaces. I built a .375 SOCOM and had to do some smoothing of inside edges around the port to get it to eject live rounds properly, as some edges were sharp. Otherwise it's fine. If your upper has smoother edges around the port door, the issue may not even come up. There pictures of my work and more info in earlier pages of this thread. BCA Bolt Action Guide -- I cover it in the first section under Tuning the Upper. If anyone has linked or info (like that spacer?) that they thi k should go in there, lemme know and I'll get it in. |
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Got a 16inch park'd 5.56 CHF barrelled upper for $220. Only sighted at 25yd with irons. Waiting to go to 100. Functioned fine, probably just use it as a take-down rifle that gets tossed into the truck. Might see what those cheap polymer lowers would do? 7.62x39 might be interesting to pair with the polymer lower. |
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Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: All indications are no. The 5.56 ejection port dimensions are such that opening it further starts to remove bearing surfaces. I built a .375 SOCOM and had to do some smoothing of inside edges around the port to get it to eject live rounds properly, as some edges were sharp. Otherwise it's fine. If your upper has smoother edges around the port door, the issue may not even come up. There pictures of my work and more info in earlier pages of this thread. BCA Bolt Action Guide -- I cover it in the first section under Tuning the Upper. If anyone has linked or info (like that spacer?) that they thi k should go in there, lemme know and I'll get it in. Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Are there any differences between the 5.56/300 uppers and the 450 uppers besides the bolt? In then pictures the ejection port looks to be the same size. I might grab another 5.56 upper and rebuild.it into a .458 (it's just cheaper that way) All indications are no. The 5.56 ejection port dimensions are such that opening it further starts to remove bearing surfaces. I built a .375 SOCOM and had to do some smoothing of inside edges around the port to get it to eject live rounds properly, as some edges were sharp. Otherwise it's fine. If your upper has smoother edges around the port door, the issue may not even come up. There pictures of my work and more info in earlier pages of this thread. BCA Bolt Action Guide -- I cover it in the first section under Tuning the Upper. If anyone has linked or info (like that spacer?) that they thi k should go in there, lemme know and I'll get it in. Thanks, this upper will definitely require some tuning. I can only really cycle the bolt if put leftward pressure on the receiver. I do think the issue could possibly be the cam pin. Will try a few spares if I can find them. |
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Mine is much smoother after I cut the tail off. I also try work it like I do a pump shotgun. It's 2 separate movements. In this case....rotate bolt, then pull bolt back. Plus, work it like you mean it. Happy with mine so far. Random photo from today. Attached File |
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Cam Pin swap helped. Wonder how some of those enhanced ones work out? https://ar15discounts.com/products/lantac-smoothcam-domed-cam-pin-5-56-copper/ Also swapped my bolt to a tool craft |
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Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Thanks, this upper will definitely require some tuning. I can only really cycle the bolt if put leftward pressure on the receiver. I do think the issue could possibly be the cam pin. Will try a few spares if I can find them. Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Are there any differences between the 5.56/300 uppers and the 450 uppers besides the bolt? In then pictures the ejection port looks to be the same size. I might grab another 5.56 upper and rebuild.it into a .458 (it's just cheaper that way) All indications are no. The 5.56 ejection port dimensions are such that opening it further starts to remove bearing surfaces. I built a .375 SOCOM and had to do some smoothing of inside edges around the port to get it to eject live rounds properly, as some edges were sharp. Otherwise it's fine. If your upper has smoother edges around the port door, the issue may not even come up. There pictures of my work and more info in earlier pages of this thread. BCA Bolt Action Guide -- I cover it in the first section under Tuning the Upper. If anyone has linked or info (like that spacer?) that they thi k should go in there, lemme know and I'll get it in. Thanks, this upper will definitely require some tuning. I can only really cycle the bolt if put leftward pressure on the receiver. I do think the issue could possibly be the cam pin. Will try a few spares if I can find them. Mine cycles with ammo much better than without. I only have one range trip with my 7.62x39 but after I ran some rounds through it, it got much better. I have a 556 upper w/ 20" barrel all setup and ready to go but have yet to shoot it. |
Originally Posted By ar-jedi:
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
SO MUCH WIN IN ONE POST IT COULD CRASH ARFCOM !!!
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Originally Posted By AL1EN: 100% Worth! Installed the skunk creek arms bolt Handel Before https://i.imgur.com/hKCXJA1.jpeg After https://i.imgur.com/uM44RES.jpeg What do you think lifespan on these spacers is? I had a print farm spin some out of nylon-like resin for me |
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Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Thanks, this upper will definitely require some tuning. I can only really cycle the bolt if put leftward pressure on the receiver. I do think the issue could possibly be the cam pin. Will try a few spares if I can find them. Is the issue in handle retraction/extraction? It might not be he cam pin/just the cam pin. This issue has come up for others and has been discussed earlier. Part is how you apply force to the handle. The bolt lugs can catch on the barrel extension lugs. Enhanced bolt can help, as can forcing the handle higher as it is being retracted.. this can be achieved by a spacer slightly thicker than the handles base, either under the handle or as wide washers around the screws. All in earlier pages, most in that guide. ETA: glad cam pin swap and toolcraft bolt helped. |
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Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: Is the issue in handle retraction/extraction? It might not be he cam pin/just the cam pin. This issue has come up for others and has been discussed earlier. Part is how you apply force to the handle. The bolt lugs can catch on the barrel extension lugs. Enhanced bolt can help, as can forcing the handle higher as it is being retracted.. this can be achieved by a spacer slightly thicker than the handles base, either under the handle or as wide washers around the screws. All in earlier pages, most in that guide. ETA: glad cam pin swap and toolcraft bolt helped. Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Thanks, this upper will definitely require some tuning. I can only really cycle the bolt if put leftward pressure on the receiver. I do think the issue could possibly be the cam pin. Will try a few spares if I can find them. Is the issue in handle retraction/extraction? It might not be he cam pin/just the cam pin. This issue has come up for others and has been discussed earlier. Part is how you apply force to the handle. The bolt lugs can catch on the barrel extension lugs. Enhanced bolt can help, as can forcing the handle higher as it is being retracted.. this can be achieved by a spacer slightly thicker than the handles base, either under the handle or as wide washers around the screws. All in earlier pages, most in that guide. ETA: glad cam pin swap and toolcraft bolt helped. I also swapped out the barrel too. Seems way smoother. Definitely going to get some delrin washers. The included barrel didn't look bad, was a bit impressed that they made some improvements. Stainless just wasn't my thing a d I prefer 11.5 over 10.5 for 5.56 I noticed that it cycles even better with a Pmag in, should be fine with live rounds. I need to look around for some snap caps/order more. Seems like the magazine/rounds take up any slack the bolt has. I have another 10.5" upper on the way to disassemble/rebuild. You are getting a lot for $190. If you EE the bolt/handguard you are atleast.getting $75-100 back on your purchase. The new handguard design isn't terrible. Still seems to be on the heavy side. Given these are on pistols I might run them as is for a bit. The extra weight on a .458 isn't the worst thing to have. |
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Originally Posted By WyattC: What do you think lifespan on these spacers is? I had a print farm spin some out of nylon-like resin for me Hard to say right now, mine are made out of PLA. And I only have about 100 cycles on it and you can see where the edge of the receiver has made a blemish in the side of the spacer but it’s structurally sound and holds on lock up. Time will tell… |
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Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: I also swapped out the barrel too. Seems way smoother. Definitely going to get some delrin washers. The included barrel didn't look bad, was a bit impressed that they made some improvements. Stainless just wasn't my thing a d I prefer 11.5 over 10.5 for 5.56 I noticed that it cycles even better with a Pmag in, should be fine with live rounds. I need to look around for some snap caps/order more. Seems like the magazine/rounds take up any slack the bolt has. I have another 10.5" upper on the way to disassemble/rebuild. You are getting a lot for $190. If you EE the bolt/handguard you are atleast.getting $75-100 back on your purchase. The new handguard design isn't terrible. Still seems to be on the heavy side. Given these are on pistols I might run them as is for a bit. The extra weight on a .458 isn't the worst thing to have. Something on the mag is providing upward pressure on the bottom of the bolt as you turn it and begin extraction. Keeps the bolt in better alignment. There's a lot of play in this system, and the upward pressure is helping the bottoms of bolt lugs clear the top faces of the receiver extension lugs. Traditional enhanced bolts are chamfered on one rear edge of each lug, based on rotation direction (left handed bolts have their lugs chamfered on the opposite back edge). With this system's charging handle, forces to charge include up/down, and left/right in addition to straight back and forth and the bolts rotation. The ideal enhanced bolt for this would be chamfered on all rear edges of the bolt. If you find one that is, lemme know. Sounds like you are on the right track. |
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Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: Something on the mag is providing upward pressure on the bottom of the bolt as you turn it and begin extraction. Keeps the bolt in better alignment. There's a lot of play in this system, and the upward pressure is helping the bottoms of bolt lugs clear the top faces of the receiver extension lugs. Traditional enhanced bolts are chamfered on one rear edge of each lug, based on rotation direction (left handed bolts have their lugs chamfered on the opposite back edge). With this system's charging handle, forces to charge include up/down, and left/right in addition to straight back and forth and the bolts rotation. The ideal enhanced bolt for this would be chamfered on all rear edges of the bolt. If you find one that is, lemme know. Sounds like you are on the right track. Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: I also swapped out the barrel too. Seems way smoother. Definitely going to get some delrin washers. The included barrel didn't look bad, was a bit impressed that they made some improvements. Stainless just wasn't my thing a d I prefer 11.5 over 10.5 for 5.56 I noticed that it cycles even better with a Pmag in, should be fine with live rounds. I need to look around for some snap caps/order more. Seems like the magazine/rounds take up any slack the bolt has. I have another 10.5" upper on the way to disassemble/rebuild. You are getting a lot for $190. If you EE the bolt/handguard you are atleast.getting $75-100 back on your purchase. The new handguard design isn't terrible. Still seems to be on the heavy side. Given these are on pistols I might run them as is for a bit. The extra weight on a .458 isn't the worst thing to have. Something on the mag is providing upward pressure on the bottom of the bolt as you turn it and begin extraction. Keeps the bolt in better alignment. There's a lot of play in this system, and the upward pressure is helping the bottoms of bolt lugs clear the top faces of the receiver extension lugs. Traditional enhanced bolts are chamfered on one rear edge of each lug, based on rotation direction (left handed bolts have their lugs chamfered on the opposite back edge). With this system's charging handle, forces to charge include up/down, and left/right in addition to straight back and forth and the bolts rotation. The ideal enhanced bolt for this would be chamfered on all rear edges of the bolt. If you find one that is, lemme know. Sounds like you are on the right track. I need to take another look, but the RTB bolt assembly kits are well made. Likely tool craft? IIRC things were chamfered. I'll take a quick look when I can. https://www.righttobear.com/m16-ar15-bolt-black-nitride-sbn158ck/ Attached File Attached File Not a bad kit for $50, good to have spare parts. The .458/450 Bolt also appeared to be very well made. |
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Upper #2 arrived. I am planning on disassembly today. I might take this chance to weigh parts if anyone is interested. Also I was curious if anyone had spare 3d printed spacers? Otherwise I might hack up an old MOE handguard for the polymer and file it to fit. Kinda bubba but hell if it works it works. Upper#1 has some wear against the area the set screws make contact. Another idea, order some smooth screws for the bolt handle. It is still steel on aluminum, but wear isn't accelerated as.mu h because the screw heads don't have serrations. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Upper #2 arrived. I am planning on disassembly today. I might take this chance to weigh parts if anyone is interested. Also I was curious if anyone had spare 3d printed spacers? Otherwise I might hack up an old MOE handguard for the polymer and file it to fit. Kinda bubba but hell if it works it works. Upper#1 has some wear against the area the set screws make contact. Another idea, order some smooth screws for the bolt handle. It is still steel on aluminum, but wear isn't accelerated as.mu h because the screw heads don't have serrations. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/333164/Screenshot_20250623-081055-237_png-3570926.JPG Spacer underneath, slightly oversized nylon or delrin washer/spacer between screw and handle, smooth sided screw head -- all will help with that. Might I suggest trying aluminum instead of steel screws if that's the approach you're gonna take? I haven't tried it myself, but if you got the same screw in aluminum, the wear should greatly reduce, presuming the screw head has identical dimensions. I don't think the screws are ever exposed to enough force to make aluminum screws too weak. |
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Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: Spacer underneath, slightly oversized nylon or delrin washer/spacer between screw and handle, smooth sided screw head -- all will help with that. Might I suggest trying aluminum instead of steel screws if that's the approach you're gonna take? I haven't tried it myself, but if you got the same screw in aluminum, the wear should greatly reduce, presuming the screw head has identical dimensions. I don't think the screws are ever exposed to enough force to make aluminum screws too weak. Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Upper #2 arrived. I am planning on disassembly today. I might take this chance to weigh parts if anyone is interested. Also I was curious if anyone had spare 3d printed spacers? Otherwise I might hack up an old MOE handguard for the polymer and file it to fit. Kinda bubba but hell if it works it works. Upper#1 has some wear against the area the set screws make contact. Another idea, order some smooth screws for the bolt handle. It is still steel on aluminum, but wear isn't accelerated as.mu h because the screw heads don't have serrations. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/333164/Screenshot_20250623-081055-237_png-3570926.JPG Spacer underneath, slightly oversized nylon or delrin washer/spacer between screw and handle, smooth sided screw head -- all will help with that. Might I suggest trying aluminum instead of steel screws if that's the approach you're gonna take? I haven't tried it myself, but if you got the same screw in aluminum, the wear should greatly reduce, presuming the screw head has identical dimensions. I don't think the screws are ever exposed to enough force to make aluminum screws too weak. Thanks, I was thinking of aluminum screws. Worst case.if they shear off they would not be hard to drill out or remove. I found the spacer STL,.I will probably play with both. |
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Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Stupid idea. CMMG 9mm Barrel + Radial Bolt.... Bolt Action 9mm?  I wonder how quiet you can get one of those. The 2nd upper I received was pretty damn smooth. What are the odds.of that? I will get some pics up soon. Just waiting in my 10.5" barrel to arrive and I will be able to tell you;) |
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Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Stupid idea. CMMG 9mm Barrel + Radial Bolt.... Bolt Action 9mm? I wonder how quiet you can get one of those. The 2nd upper I received was pretty damn smooth. What are the odds.of that? I will get some pics up soon. First, yes, this has been done by several people. We discussed it a few pages back. Read through it! Amphibian contributed heavily, IIRC. Highlight: While it will be function, do not use a RDB bolt for bolt action. Use one of these: https://www.redxarms.com/545x39-Bolt-p/5102.htm The bolt face is the right size for 9mm. Using a RDB barrel is fine, or Amphibian has RDB-compatible stainless barrels he makes from Odin-works barrels, again IIRC. Using a RDB bolt in this WILL put all the transfer ALL of the recoil force through the back tips of the lugs. They will have a shortened lifespan and it may slowly flatten the back edges of the lugs, loosening the bolt's fit when closed. Or it may cause one to crack. |
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Originally Posted By PreacherOfGadget: Sweet. Wanna see that and read about your reactions. That build got added to my "to-do" list a while ago. Still working through the "to make money" list so I can afford my "to-do" list. You and me both, brother! |
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| Got a 450 bushmaster upper. Took the 20" barrel and handguard off my problematic 450 bushmaster 20" rifle. Kinda weird at 1st. The semi auto setup was nothing but problems. Bolt went back far enough to eject the shell, but not far enough back to strip a round out of the mag 90% of the time. Upper had a rifle length gas system. Same model upper sold a year later had a mid-length gas system. |
Rob
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Originally Posted By WyattC: I remember reading about someone putting together a 9mm BCA bolt action and having ejection issues, interested to see if you run into any. I was told it could be sporadic. When using my CMMG RDB bolt carrier and 5.45 bolt with my RDB barrel, it ran as a repeater by working the CH each time. I only ran a few, but seemed to eject pretty decently. We shall see. |
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Originally Posted By Rob940: Got a 450 bushmaster upper. Took the 20" barrel and handguard off my problematic 450 bushmaster 20" rifle. Kinda weird at 1st. The semi auto setup was nothing but problems. Bolt went back far enough to eject the shell, but not far enough back to strip a round out of the mag 90% of the time. Upper had a rifle length gas system. Same model upper sold a year later had a mid-length gas system. You could try opening up the gas port or lighter buffer and spring. I'm still playing with the 10 and 15 bolt uppers. Ordered a couple of the bolt relocator brackets in the hopes one fits the 308. Guess I haven't done much with the 15 after the 300blk sub accuracy debacle. It's wearing an 18" lightweight 556 barrel currently. I did come across something interesting. As I was packing up for a range trip, the thought of trying some titegroup subs crossed my mind. So I googled and made up a few 175smk loads with 8.5grns. Unfortunately they were super sonic cracking and clocking 1200fps but the accuracy was fantastic. Like stacking rounds ontop of each other at 100. I'd have a sub half inch group going and one would hop out a couple inches. So maybe wind? I'm hoping that pulling a grain from my load will get them subsonic and they'll atleast try to group. This is with the 22" WOA barrel. There's a 16" BA lightweight premium 308 barrel coming for it. Why do a folding rifle if it's not compact. Maybe I'll find a deal on another 300blk barrel for the pocket sniper. Everyone says that the 300 is the king of subs but I can't find evidence of it anywhere and my results were awful. |
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Quick update. Messing with .458 and 5.56 Seems like these upper need some tweaking. They don't seem to like my Okay IND Aluminum mags, or steel duramags. The bolt appears to be gouging into the brass/binding on it. Pmags cycle very smooth. Attached File Tried various round counts in a magazine. Edit: I got the 5.56 running. Swapped out the toolcraft bolt for one of the BCA bolts. I may try to reprofile the lugs of the Toolcraft later. Just noticed they are pretty damn square/sharp (as opposed to the .458 bolt I picked up) |
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Originally Posted By Capt_Destro: Quick update. Messing with .458 and 5.56 Seems like these upper need some tweaking. They don't seem to like my Okay IND Aluminum mags, or steel duramags. The bolt appears to be gouging into the brass/binding on it. Pmags cycle very smooth. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/333164/IMG_20250702_195756083_2_jpg-3578752.JPG Tried various round counts in a magazine. Edit: I got the 5.56 running. Swapped out the toolcraft bolt for one of the BCA bolts. I may try to reprofile the lugs of the Toolcraft later. Just noticed they are pretty damn square/sharp (as opposed to the .458 bolt I picked up) Please keep us updated on your 458 progress. Post details about loads and your rifle. I've been thinking about getting into the cartridge. |
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| An update on my 9mm bolt gun. Ejects about 1 out of 10. Extracts fine, jusy leaves the spent case lying in the action. I knew it would be hit amd miss, but didn't think it would be that bad. Oh well..it will be a second 9mm RDB upper now. Turned the bolt into .300 BLK, like I was originally planning. |
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Originally Posted By HK_DUDE: An update on my 9mm bolt gun. Ejects about 1 out of 10. Extracts fine, jusy leaves the spent case lying in the action. I knew it would be hit amd miss, but didn't think it would be that bad. Oh well..it will be a second 9mm RDB upper now. Turned the bolt into .300 BLK, like I was originally planning. Sounds like you just needed gravity pulling the cases in a different direction. I think what you had there was a left-handed, held-side-ways-like-a-gansta, bolt-action AR-9. Were you shooting it port down, held sideways like a left-handed gangster? If not, why aren't you shooting all your guns sideways all the time?  I think this is where the ejection issue comes from. Probably just not enough left-handed gangsta style in your stance and hold.  Who's next for the Preacher's insight? |
BCA bolt action upper for $350? (Page 12 of 21)
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