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Atrius G lever (Page 2 of 2)
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Originally Posted By Jonboyhst: My G-Lever is not working with my BCM Lower, and SSA Trigger. when installed I have no Semi or Fully fire control. The trigger needs to be shaved off some I guess? Originally Posted By Jonboyhst: I am having the same problem? Atrius reminding me of the OG cornfed debacle- it works! Well it works on some!.
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I recently installed a G Lever. Lower shelf receiver- confirmed with countless photo searches. SSA Colt and Superlative Arms M16 BCGs Installation was easy enough. All positions work without an upper on. Selector rotates easily when the hammer is locked back. Trigger feel is OK, not as crisp and light as before but not overly heavy either. With the upper on, safety works and 3rd position works. Dead trigger in semi, position 2. Thoughts? Solutions? |
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Originally Posted By philmeister4: I recently installed a G Lever. Lower shelf receiver- confirmed with countless photo searches. SSA Colt and Superlative Arms M16 BCGs Installation was easy enough. All positions work without an upper on. Selector rotates easily when the hammer is locked back. Trigger feel is OK, not as crisp and light as before but not overly heavy either. With the upper on, safety works and 3rd position works. Dead trigger in semi, position 2. Thoughts? Solutions? What do you mean when you say "dead trigger?" |
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Originally Posted By HKH: This is why friends only let friends buy Arc Fires to use with G$ dope triggers yo! I dropped an Atrius with a G lever in my 2006’ish LWRC 10.5” 5.56, threw my FireTeam 556 on it and it runs like a raped ape in all three gas block settings. Regular carbine spring and buffer. No mods, no fitting, no shimming, etc. I’m going to try an H2 and H3 to see if I can slow it down some. I tried two different AF’s in this rifle with the included triggers and a SSA-E from ASD without any success. I have a 16.7% success rate (1 out of the 6 I have works) with ASD with who knows how many hours and how much money spent. I’m at 100% with Atrius and it took the cost of the unit and the time to install it. |
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Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: I dropped an Atrius with a G lever in my 2006’ish LWRC 10.5” 5.56, threw my FireTeam 556 on it and it runs like a raped ape in all three gas block settings. Regular carbine spring and buffer. No mods, no fitting, no shimming, etc. I’m going to try an H2 and H3 to see if I can slow it down some. I tried two different AF’s in this rifle with the included triggers and a SSA-E from ASD without any success. I have a 16.7% success rate (1 out of the 6 I have works) with ASD with who knows how many hours and how much money spent. I’m at 100% with Atrius and it took the cost of the unit and the time to install it. You do you killer |
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Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: I dropped an Atrius with a G lever in my 2006'ish LWRC 10.5" 5.56, threw my FireTeam 556 on it and it runs like a raped ape in all three gas block settings. Regular carbine spring and buffer. No mods, no fitting, no shimming, etc. I'm going to try an H2 and H3 to see if I can slow it down some. I tried two different AF's in this rifle with the included triggers and a SSA-E from ASD without any success. I have a 16.7% success rate (1 out of the 6 I have works) with ASD with who knows how many hours and how much money spent. I'm at 100% with Atrius and it took the cost of the unit and the time to install it. |
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Originally Posted By ODA_564: I'm using an H2 and have a pretty fast rate of fire (unsuppressed). I am going to try it suppressed before I go to an H3. The current ROF is too fast. Mine has to be running sub .10 splits. I’m going to try my Rhodie 6 and I’m using the suppressed setting. I have a regular H2, Tromix FRT H2 & H3, regular H3’s nd a slew of new springs. I’m going to try buffers first and see what I get. I’ll start over with springs after I try the buffers if I have to. Ejection is solidly at 3 o’clock, so there may not be just a helluva lot I can do to slow it down before I start getting failures. I didn’t notice much difference in ROF or ejection between the gas settings until I flipped it to off. ![]() ETA: I was shooting PMC bronze 55 gr. from who knows what year. Smokey shit. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: What do you mean when you say "dead trigger?" Upper is installed and the charging handle cycled to allow the trigger to function. If I move the selector to FRT, the trigger functions and releases the hammer. If I do the same but select the 2nd position, semi mode, no matter how hard I squeeze the trigger, the hammer will not release. |
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Originally Posted By philmeister4: Upper is installed and the charging handle cycled to allow the trigger to function. If I move the selector to FRT, the trigger functions and releases the hammer. If I do the same but select the 2nd position, semi mode, no matter how hard I squeeze the trigger, the hammer will not release. Originally Posted By philmeister4: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: What do you mean when you say "dead trigger?" Upper is installed and the charging handle cycled to allow the trigger to function. If I move the selector to FRT, the trigger functions and releases the hammer. If I do the same but select the 2nd position, semi mode, no matter how hard I squeeze the trigger, the hammer will not release. Take a look down into your lower receiver. Does the spring wrapped around your Atrius look warped at all, or kinked? |
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Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: I have a 16.7% success rate (1 out of the 6 I have works) with ASD with who knows how many hours and how much money spent. I’m at 100% with Atrius and it took the cost of the unit and the time to install it. …how in the hell? Maybe we are designed for different FRTs. That’s wild. I could not get Atrius to work and moved on. Was not a fan of the spring. ASD and AZR are 100% for me…the AZR may take some fitting but always runs 100%, and if I want to use a G$ for the AS, I have to take ten minutes and cut it (it’s so so easy)…100% with them (factory triggers run drop-in) as well. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Take a look down into your lower receiver. Does the spring wrapped around your Atrius look warped at all, or kinked? Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By philmeister4: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: What do you mean when you say "dead trigger?" Upper is installed and the charging handle cycled to allow the trigger to function. If I move the selector to FRT, the trigger functions and releases the hammer. If I do the same but select the 2nd position, semi mode, no matter how hard I squeeze the trigger, the hammer will not release. Take a look down into your lower receiver. Does the spring wrapped around your Atrius look warped at all, or kinked? I have new smaller McMaster Carr springs arriving tomorrow to eliminate this as a possibility. To be fair, I don’t know what normal would look like with the stock spring diameter being as large as it is. |
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Originally Posted By philmeister4: I have new smaller McMaster Carr springs arriving tomorrow to eliminate this as a possibility. To be fair, I don’t know what normal would look like with the stock spring diameter being as large as it is. Originally Posted By philmeister4: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By philmeister4: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: What do you mean when you say "dead trigger?" Upper is installed and the charging handle cycled to allow the trigger to function. If I move the selector to FRT, the trigger functions and releases the hammer. If I do the same but select the 2nd position, semi mode, no matter how hard I squeeze the trigger, the hammer will not release. Take a look down into your lower receiver. Does the spring wrapped around your Atrius look warped at all, or kinked? I have new smaller McMaster Carr springs arriving tomorrow to eliminate this as a possibility. To be fair, I don’t know what normal would look like with the stock spring diameter being as large as it is. I've never cared for how that spring behaves. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I've never cared for how that spring behaves. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By philmeister4: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By philmeister4: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: What do you mean when you say "dead trigger?" Upper is installed and the charging handle cycled to allow the trigger to function. If I move the selector to FRT, the trigger functions and releases the hammer. If I do the same but select the 2nd position, semi mode, no matter how hard I squeeze the trigger, the hammer will not release. Take a look down into your lower receiver. Does the spring wrapped around your Atrius look warped at all, or kinked? I have new smaller McMaster Carr springs arriving tomorrow to eliminate this as a possibility. To be fair, I don’t know what normal would look like with the stock spring diameter being as large as it is. I've never cared for how that spring behaves. Ok, smaller springs installed and it restored the original trigger pull to my SSA. I still cannot fire in Semi/position 2 with an upper on. My BCG is pushing the lever forward and preventing the full length of travel required to release the trigger. I have dremeled the lever to try and extend its “flat”in order to allow the trigger to have its full range of motion. To no avail. So when the lever is pushed forward, it engages the cam on the left safety selector, moving the lever towards the other side of the lower. And I assume my lever is over the left wall of the rear trigger housing. Any thoughts? I decided to dremel the lever as that is an inexpensive replacement part vs. the SSA. |
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Originally Posted By philmeister4: Ok, smaller springs installed and it restored the original trigger pull to my SSA. I still cannot fire in Semi/position 2 with an upper on. My BCG is pushing the lever forward and preventing the full length of travel required to release the trigger. I have dremeled the lever to try and extend its “flat”in order to allow the trigger to have its full range of motion. To no avail. So when the lever is pushed forward, it engages the cam on the left safety selector, moving the lever towards the other side of the lower. And I assume my lever is over the left wall of the rear trigger housing. Any thoughts? I decided to dremel the lever as that is an inexpensive replacement part vs. the SSA. Originally Posted By philmeister4: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By philmeister4: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By philmeister4: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: What do you mean when you say "dead trigger?" Upper is installed and the charging handle cycled to allow the trigger to function. If I move the selector to FRT, the trigger functions and releases the hammer. If I do the same but select the 2nd position, semi mode, no matter how hard I squeeze the trigger, the hammer will not release. Take a look down into your lower receiver. Does the spring wrapped around your Atrius look warped at all, or kinked? I have new smaller McMaster Carr springs arriving tomorrow to eliminate this as a possibility. To be fair, I don’t know what normal would look like with the stock spring diameter being as large as it is. I've never cared for how that spring behaves. Ok, smaller springs installed and it restored the original trigger pull to my SSA. I still cannot fire in Semi/position 2 with an upper on. My BCG is pushing the lever forward and preventing the full length of travel required to release the trigger. I have dremeled the lever to try and extend its “flat”in order to allow the trigger to have its full range of motion. To no avail. So when the lever is pushed forward, it engages the cam on the left safety selector, moving the lever towards the other side of the lower. And I assume my lever is over the left wall of the rear trigger housing. Any thoughts? I decided to dremel the lever as that is an inexpensive replacement part vs. the SSA. I think I'd try it in a different lower, first. Your lower might just be a C hair off in the right spot to make it not work. |
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Originally Posted By Alex5643: Just got a g level safe works and frt works, semi works but is about a 7 to 9 lbs pull. Not sure whats wrong or what needs done. Griffin Mk2 lower SSA-E trigger You'll need to shave the top of the rear of your trigger shoe. I can't say how much, just to go slow, take less than you think you need the first time, and you'll get there eventually. Geissele triggers just aren't manufactured that precisely in that dimension. The G lever is rather a disappointment as a drop in product, but I don't really think that's Atrius's fault. Cornfire had the same issue, just inconsistent trigger shoe heights. |
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Originally Posted By Alex5643: I have polished the rear trigger bar and the side that is touching the g level. I also polished the g level its self and its still binding on the g level some how and where I would take a little bit more. It’s a fairly simple mechanism, just don’t take so much that the trigger will break with a normal safety on Safe. |
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Originally Posted By Alex5643: Update Was looking at it more and asked an outside source and found out the g level spring is getting stuck between the safety and the trigger bars, is there any good replacement springs or anything else that can be done to stop it If you find a good source, let us know here. That spring blows. |
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| Got it to run and the trigger to work like normal McMaster-Carr PN 9657K614 is what i went with the spring is tight you will probably need a pick to push it on the safety only issue now getting some light strikes. Changed my buffer for a h2 to h3 haven't had a chance to shoot yet. |
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I just tried installing a G lever that I bought when the first dropped. I'm getting the dead trigger. I'm not sure if I want to try fixing it or just modding the trigger for an ASD ARC Fire. I've got a couple of those hanging around. What tools are you using to polish the trigger bar for the G lever? Are you using a dremel or doing it by hand with a stone? |
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Originally Posted By Bravo_Six: I just tried installing a G lever that I bought when the first dropped. I'm getting the dead trigger. I'm not sure if I want to try fixing it or just modding the trigger for an ASD ARC Fire. I've got a couple of those hanging around. What tools are you using to polish the trigger bar for the G lever? Are you using a dremel or doing it by hand with a stone? I did mine on a bench grinder. I think the grinding stone is around 8 inches across? Not sure. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I did mine on a bench grinder. I think the grinding stone is around 8 inches across? Not sure. I quit buying atrius so I’m out of practice. How do you make the G lever work? Is it the same way we did our mil spec triggers with the OG Atrius? Does this still slave the trigger to the frt? |
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Originally Posted By HKH: I quit buying atrius so I’m out of practice. How do you make the G lever work? Is it the same way we did our mil spec triggers with the OG Atrius? Does this still slave the trigger to the frt? Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I did mine on a bench grinder. I think the grinding stone is around 8 inches across? Not sure. I quit buying atrius so I’m out of practice. How do you make the G lever work? Is it the same way we did our mil spec triggers with the OG Atrius? Does this still slave the trigger to the frt? More like how we made the Cornfires work when they didn't work with a G$. From what I can tell, the G Lever is functionally identical to the MARC from November of last year. Geissele triggers just aren't made precisely enough in that dimension for an FRT lever to work every time. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: More like how we made the Cornfires work when they didn't work with a G$. From what I can tell, the G Lever is functionally identical to the MARC from November of last year. Geissele triggers just aren't made precisely enough in that dimension for an FRT lever to work every time. Yeah don’t have that either. Just hit 13 AF units but only a dozen G$ triggers. They took care of a warranty issue and I’m like hell, that’s awesome. Think I’ll buy another one just because. Then I discover I’m short a trigger. Should have bought more blemulas
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I did mine on a bench grinder. I think the grinding stone is around 8 inches across? Not sure. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By Bravo_Six: I just tried installing a G lever that I bought when the first dropped. I'm getting the dead trigger. I'm not sure if I want to try fixing it or just modding the trigger for an ASD ARC Fire. I've got a couple of those hanging around. What tools are you using to polish the trigger bar for the G lever? Are you using a dremel or doing it by hand with a stone? I did mine on a bench grinder. I think the grinding stone is around 8 inches across? Not sure. Damn. I thought that it was a more delicate operation. Are there any known dimensions that work with the G lever so I can get an idea about how much material I need to take off? |
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Originally Posted By Bourbon: Having similar issues with my safety with a SSA-E. Hard wall in both semi and 3rd position. More pressure but no actual break results in semi/FRT, respectively. I'd make sure you aren't catching a spring coil between the selector cam and the trigger, and if not, try removing a bit of material at the top of the tail. |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I'd make sure you aren't catching a spring coil between the selector cam and the trigger, and if not, try removing a bit of material at the top of the tail. Based on videos I've watched on YouTube related to this, it looks like I need to remove material from the top, but also maybe the side based on what I'm seeing (selector juts out and makes contact also). I dunno. Frustrating to spend money on something like this and have it not work with a $350 trigger without taking a file to it. |
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Originally Posted By Bourbon: So the tail of the trigger rotates upwards and naturally makes contact with the safety selector barrel, right? It's a matter of how far it travels before releasing the hammer.. do I have that right? Based on videos I've watched on YouTube related to this, it looks like I need to remove material from the top, but also maybe the side based on what I'm seeing (selector juts out and makes contact also). I dunno. Frustrating to spend money on something like this and have it not work with a $350 trigger without taking a file to it. Originally Posted By Bourbon: Originally Posted By ELittlefield: I'd make sure you aren't catching a spring coil between the selector cam and the trigger, and if not, try removing a bit of material at the top of the tail. Based on videos I've watched on YouTube related to this, it looks like I need to remove material from the top, but also maybe the side based on what I'm seeing (selector juts out and makes contact also). I dunno. Frustrating to spend money on something like this and have it not work with a $350 trigger without taking a file to it. Yep, it's definitely frustrating. They advertised the G Lever to be drop in, and it really isn't. |
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Ok. When I pull the trigger to the wall, the spring definitely moves back and forth a bit. It's as if the trigger bar has reached its max travel, and then with more pressure the trigger releases. Thoughts/anything stick out here? Attached File |
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Originally Posted By Bourbon: Ok. When I pull the trigger to the wall, the spring definitely moves back and forth a bit. It's as if the trigger bar has reached its max travel, and then with more pressure the trigger releases. Thoughts/anything stick out here? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/165125/IMG_4696_jpeg-3820536.JPG |
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Originally Posted By Bourbon: Is there any difference between this safety and the non G lever safety? Can I just choose to forgo the block and use it with a different non G trigger? Slightly different geometry in the swinging trip lever. |
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Atrius G lever (Page 2 of 2)
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