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Assemble your own LOWER, UPPER, FREE FLOAT, TRIGGER, GAS BLOCK - Step by step instructions! (Page 15 of 16)
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Originally Posted By FALARAK: @veeklog What part did you lose? |
Mark it Zero!!
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Originally Posted By Jammer-Six:
Sorry, I never read anything that has "...for dummies" in the title because, well, I'm not a dummy. Have a good day! Do you remember the old commercials.... "you could learn a lot, from a dummy?" |
Sorry about the mayonnaise, guys.
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Originally Posted By Jammer-Six:
Sorry, I never read anything that has "...for dummies" in the title because, well, I'm not a dummy. Have a good day! Txl |
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great ballistics website. https://ballisticxlr.com.
great ballistics website. https://ballisticxlr.com.
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Just a note to anyone out there who sees the battlereadysulutions or https://battleready.solutions
Stay as far away from them as you can!!! This company is completely disorganized and its been almost 3 months since my order and the only way to get in touch with them is to leave a negative post on their facebook page and then contact them on facebook messenger. Thats when the games begin.... they are quick to take your money but nearly impossible to get your order. PLEASE Pm me before you order from them no matter what the price i will show you the communication to expect from them i took screenshots of everything. This is ancompany who does not need to get anyones business. Let me know if this could be posted somewhere better |
Dispensing happiness one MIRV at a time.
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Just a little bump for 2019.
I'm sure lots of folks are starting builds on stuff they bought over Christmas that is finally arriving. |
The nine most terrifying words in the English language are, 'I'm from the government and I'm here to help.' - Ronald Reagan
Official Arfcom Callsign - "Hot Sauce"
Official Arfcom Callsign - "Hot Sauce"
| I love this thread! Ive been out of building for so long I haven't seen in a lonnnng time and wasn't sure if she'd still be here. Starting an AR10 project, and getting my ducks in a row. |
"There are not two parties in America today. There is ONE PARTY, the Big Government party, that has two competing wings." -spartacus2002
"The competition is staged"-puskrat
"The competition is staged"-puskrat
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Bump @FALARAK The video links are no bueno, and the safety function check on the HERE and HERE links are bad. I'm good but it is always a few years between assembling lowers. Giving one to son and building one for daughter for xmas. Bear creek 16" for boy and KK gets the 10.5" CMMG on pistola lower. Only lost 1 detent.  Need to remember mental note to reorder one on next purchase. Extra LPK's are a must. |
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I'm early my first build and I'm having problems getting the bolt catch roll pin installed. I suspect it's an alignment problem and it's being blocked by the bolt catch in between the two lugs. I've hammered as hard on it as I feel comfortable. I watched a couple of videos and the pins seemed to go straight in without much force once they were aligned. I don't want to break a cast lug off the side of my lower ... First, is this the place to ask this and second, do you have any suggestions for how I can align them. I can't get a drift punch in from the opposite side. Thanks! |
"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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I just built three today. I have a little hobby hammer, I protected the rear of the receiver with a piece of paper and tapped the roll pin to get it started with the little hammer. I once it was started, I got the spring, detent and catch in, tapped the pin in a little till it caught then used a punch that was too big to get it really close. Set it where I wanted it with the right size punch. I don't have the fancy 'roll pin starter punches' and just have a little hobby Vice And A short 2x4. You can also bevel the end of the roll pin with a piece of sand paper or a file. I used LSA to lube it up, was out of tetra grease |
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Originally Posted By centermass181: I just built three today. I have a little hobby hammer, I protected the rear of the receiver with a piece of paper and tapped the roll pin to get it started with the little hammer. I once it was started, I got the spring, detent and catch in, tapped the pin in a little till it caught then used a punch that was too big to get it really close. Set it where I wanted it with the right size punch. I don't have the fancy 'roll pin starter punches' and just have a little hobby Vice And A short 2x4. You can also bevel the end of the roll pin with a piece of sand paper or a file. I used LSA to lube it up, was out of tetra grease Thanks. I have it started and it's in as far as the inside edge of the rear lug. That's why I suspect I'm having problems aligning the bolt catch with the lug holes. |
"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: I'm early my first build and I'm having problems getting the bolt catch roll pin installed. I suspect it's an alignment problem and it's being blocked by the bolt catch in between the two lugs. I've hammered as hard on it as I feel comfortable. I watched a couple of videos and the pins seemed to go straight in without much force once they were aligned. I don't want to break a cast lug off the side of my lower ... First, is this the place to ask this and second, do you have any suggestions for how I can align them. I can't get a drift punch in from the opposite side. Thanks! Your lower is likely not cast, but forged. Possibly billet. What lower do you have? Manufacturer/model? |
Can't never could 'til try came along.
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Originally Posted By TGWLDR: Your lower is likely not cast, but forged. Possibly billet. What lower do you have? Manufacturer/model? Ah, that's right. good point. Thanks. Aero Precision X-15. "Machined from 7075-T6 forged aluminum" their web site says. |
"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Ah, that's right. good point. Thanks. Aero Precision X-15. "Machined from 7075-T6 forged aluminum" their web site says. Gotcha. Some lowers have the ear threaded for a special bolt catch pin (M4E1 being one): Attached File Yours does not. A couple of links that may help: https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.itstactical.com/warcom/firearms/diy-ar-15-build-bolt-catch-installation/amp/ https://www.shootingillustrated.com/content/ar-lower-receiver-build-bolt-catch-installation/ Note the pic from the link regarding use of a slave pin: Attached File |
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Originally Posted By TGWLDR: Gotcha. Note the pic from the link regarding use of a slave pin: Great stuff! Thank you very much, Sir. I'll get to work on a slave pin. |
"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Great stuff! Thank you very much, Sir. I'll get to work on a slave pin. Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Originally Posted By TGWLDR: Gotcha. Note the pic from the link regarding use of a slave pin: Great stuff! Thank you very much, Sir. I'll get to work on a slave pin. Happy to (hopefully) help. If you don't make headway, check back in, there's plenty of knowledge here. Somebody will get you squared away. |
Can't never could 'til try came along.
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I went at it again this morning with no success. So I took a nice long hike to clear my head. I used a take-down detent pin as a slave; that was pretty easy and it centered the hole for me. I stuck a small piece of masking tape over it to keep it from sliding out. No joy. I'm using a depth gauge to measure the bolt release roll pin's progress and there isn't any. It's at the same depth it has been. So now I'm wondering if I deformed the pin and need to remove it to inspect it? And if so, the best way to do that? 
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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Another question: Should I wait until I get this resolved and the bolt catch release installed before moving on to installing other parts in the lower? Or will I just be making it harder on myself later on, please? Thanks for the help! |
"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: I went at it again this morning with no success. So I took a nice long hike to clear my head. I used a take-down detent pin as a slave; that was pretty easy and it centered the hole for me. I stuck a small piece of masking tape over it to keep it from sliding out. No joy. I'm using a depth gauge to measure the bolt release roll pin's progress and there isn't any. It's at the same depth it has been. So now I'm wondering if I deformed the pin and need to remove it to inspect it? And if so, the best way to do that? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/582146/Daily_Hike-1-2795979.jpg Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Another question: Should I wait until I get this resolved and the bolt catch release installed before moving on to installing other parts in the lower? Or will I just be making it harder on myself later on, please? Thanks for the help! Remove the BC roll pin, inspect the ears on your lower to ensure that you haven't peened anything over making an obstruction. Inspect the current roll pin. A needle file from a jeweler's kit can be used if deformation is present at ears. Obviously shit can the pin if borked. If all appears kosher, put a drop of oil either inside the bore on ears or on roll pin, use the slave pin method and drive the pin in with a proper punch. Alignment is essential. |
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Originally Posted By TGWLDR: Remove the BC roll pin, inspect the ears on your lower to ensure that you haven't peened anything over making an obstruction. Inspect the current roll pin. A needle file from a jeweler's kit can be used if deformation is present at ears. Obviously shit can the pin if borked. If all appears kosher, put a drop of oil either inside the bore on ears or on roll pin, use the slave pin method and drive the pin in with a proper punch. Alignment is essential. Copy all, thank you very much. I'm on it. |
"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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Success! I went out of town for a couple of days and its been sitting on the bench waiting for me. The roll pin was deformed. Surely from me trying to drive it in while it wasn't aligned. I used a slave int to get it aligned then drove it in. The new one was really tight getting started but went in slowly and steadily once it started. The silvery stuff in the pic, around the pin hole, was, I think, scraped off from the pin as it was driven in. I'm not 100% sure but I'll know when I clean it up. Thanks for the help, everybody! 
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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Thanks to this guide and the help of the members here, I have now assembled my first lower. It passes all function checks and I learned a ton about ARs while doing it. Aero Precision receiver, BCM Gunfighter lower parts and fire control. Talon Raptor ambi safety. Strike Industries enhanced bolt catch and ambi mag release. Thordson Buffer Tube Cover/Cheek Rest. 
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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And now, I'm taking off the buffer tube again because I forgot to install the takedown pin detent and spring first. Live and learn. Edited to add: All fixed. 
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"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Nice solution! Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Originally Posted By 67Firebird: I tap mine, and put a small set screw holding the spring. Nice solution! @Cascade-Dude All of my Aero lowers came with the rear detent tapped and set screwed already. Yours did not? ETA: Congrats on getting working. It's always a learning curve. |
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Originally Posted By NewCo32: @Cascade-Dude All of my Aero lowers came with the rear detent tapped and set screwed already. Yours did not? ETA: Congrats on getting working. It's always a learning curve. Thanks! I learned a lot, which is good. :) Nope. No tap, no set screw. |
"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Thanks! I learned a lot, which is good. :) Nope. No tap, no set screw. Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Originally Posted By NewCo32: @Cascade-Dude All of my Aero lowers came with the rear detent tapped and set screwed already. Yours did not? ETA: Congrats on getting working. It's always a learning curve. Thanks! I learned a lot, which is good. :) Nope. No tap, no set screw. IME they never included a set screw (#4-40 1/8") and you might not have noticed the threads unless you looked really closely... |
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Originally Posted By BullpupFan: IME they never included a set screw (#4-40 1/8") and you might not have noticed the threads unless you looked really closely... Originally Posted By BullpupFan: Originally Posted By Cascade-Dude: Originally Posted By NewCo32: @Cascade-Dude All of my Aero lowers came with the rear detent tapped and set screwed already. Yours did not? ETA: Congrats on getting working. It's always a learning curve. Thanks! I learned a lot, which is good. :) Nope. No tap, no set screw. IME they never included a set screw (#4-40 1/8") and you might not have noticed the threads unless you looked really closely... Actually this is correct. It's been many years since I bought a lower so I forgot that I may have purchased the set screws on my own. Next time you have the buffer tube/end plate off take a look. I bet you'll find that it's threaded. |
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Originally Posted By BullpupFan: IME they never included a set screw (#4-40 1/8") and you might not have noticed the threads unless you looked really closely... I'll check it out the next time it's apart. Thanks for the info.! |
"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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Originally Posted By NewCo32: Actually this is correct. It's been many years since I bought a lower so I forgot that I may have purchased the set screws on my own. Next time you have the buffer tube/end plate off take a look. I bet you'll find that it's threaded. I'll check it out. Thanks! |
"Call a magazine a clip again. I dare you, I double dare you mother******, call a magazine a clip one more ******* time!"
-- Jules Winnfield
-- Jules Winnfield
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Hey guys, checking in, just wanted to say: @FALARAK thank you so much for this great thread, it's what I used 10 years ago to assemble an AR for the first time and i've built dozens since, really appreciate it brother! And regarding BC pins mentioned in some posts on this page: 1.roll-pin starter punches are awesome, I got mine for like 6 bucks shipped on ebay and man was I mad I hadn't tried them before. Well worth it, much less time and aggravation. Just buy some. 2. I always put a tiny hair of a bevel on one end of the pin before I start it. Just a hair with a piece of sandpaper on a flat surface, since I started doing that (and bought starter-punches), I have never again had an issue with getting a BC pin started. I do the same thing on the FA pin when assembling an upper. |
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Assemble your own LOWER, UPPER, FREE FLOAT, TRIGGER, GAS BLOCK - Step by step instructions! (Page 15 of 16)
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