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ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 18 of 28)
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I just cut another G$ trigger. This time a brand new super dynamic combat flat bow. I’m not ragging on any of you Nancy bois but maybe you aught to have your husbands cut these?  It literally takes 2 minutes and it’s easy. I’ve cut 5 now and all work perfectly. 3 G2S, one SSAE, and one SDC. The arc with G$ and lever block is incredible. |
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Originally Posted By HKH: I just cut another G$ trigger. This time a brand new super dynamic combat flat bow. I’m not ragging on any of you Nancy bois but maybe you aught to have your husbands cut these? It literally takes 2 minutes and it’s easy. I’ve cut 5 now and all work perfectly. 3 G2S, one SSAE, and one SDC. The arc with G$ and lever block is incredible. Which lever blocker do you use? From whom? I haven't been paying attention to the G$ triggers because I haven't owned any and didn't plan to get any. Now I do and I am as ignorant as all get out. Suddenly I am in the game. |
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Originally Posted By erichard: Haven't read the whole 17 pages here, but did your G2S work without modification or did you mod it or have someone else do it? I have a space g2S I'd like to put to use with this maybe. If you did it, how hard was it to do? Originally Posted By erichard: Originally Posted By BuckeyeRifleman: I have a V1 with a Geissele G2S and it’s absolutely amazing, the 90/180 doesn’t bother me. I guess I’ll stick to V1 for now. But the V2 would be cool for my A1 clone. Haven't read the whole 17 pages here, but did your G2S work without modification or did you mod it or have someone else do it? I have a space g2S I'd like to put to use with this maybe. If you did it, how hard was it to do? I bought the G2S pre-cut from AS designs. There are companies out there that offer a trigger cutting service for super safeties that should work with the arc Fire but YMMV. They also charge an arm and a leg IMO. I did cut a mil spec trigger and it wasn’t that hard, as the one that came with my arc Fire sucked… That said I’m not quite brave enough to take a dremel to my SSA. What’s crazy to me is my G2S with the ARC Fire feels significantly better than my SSA. I’m not sure how or why. They measure exactly the same on my scale, both for pre travel and the break. It’s on par with my DMR trigger. |
The posts made on this forum are purely my private opinion and don’t represent any employer or entity I am professionally associated with.
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Originally Posted By viator: Which lever blocker do you use? From whom? I haven't been paying attention to the G$ triggers because I haven't owned any and didn't plan to get any. Now I do and I am as ignorant as all get out. Suddenly I am in the game. ASD’s blocker |
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Originally Posted By HKH: ASD’s blocker Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By viator: Which lever blocker do you use? From whom? I haven't been paying attention to the G$ triggers because I haven't owned any and didn't plan to get any. Now I do and I am as ignorant as all get out. Suddenly I am in the game. ASD’s blocker Thanks. ASD is out, but I ordered some blockers from Deez Nutz. I also just ordered 2 more ARC-Fires from Deez Nutz and then 3 G$ G2S triggers from Brownells at an acceptable price. I decided not to wait for a big sale. I'll pull some non-functioning Partisan Disruptor triggers out and put some working triggers in. If these three ARC-Fire/G$ setups work, I'll be all in for more AR15s. What are you using as a pattern to guide your modification of the G$ triggers? I ordered a jig from Deez Nutz and also have a cut trigger from a Hoffman Super Safety that I ordered from AS Designs last week. Will either of these do? |
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Originally Posted By Corn-fed-556: https://odysee.com/@S3igu2:c/LeberV2:5 Dig around a bit more, it’s in there Thanks mate, thought it would be a separate file, not embedded in an updated collection, am GTG now. Will be nice to convert from a push button to a lever safety! |
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Originally Posted By viator: Thanks. ASD is out, but I ordered some blockers from Deez Nutz. I also just ordered 2 more ARC-Fires from Deez Nutz and then 3 G$ G2S triggers from Brownells at an acceptable price. I decided not to wait for a big sale. I'll pull some non-functioning Partisan Disruptor triggers out and put some working triggers in. If these three ARC-Fire/G$ setups work, I'll be all in for more AR15s. What are you using as a pattern to guide your modification of the G$ triggers? I ordered a jig from Deez Nutz and also have a cut trigger from a Hoffman Super Safety that I ordered from AS Designs last week. Will either of these do? All these designs are new and everyone is shipping as fast as they can. If you want to part with your Partisans, message me. I'm sure drilling the detent a little deeper will sort them out. |
Get both is the answer.
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Originally Posted By twoisone: I ordered the first drop of ASD ARCs. I waited 6 weeks to get it. Then the reports started rolling in about the shaft being long on some and you needed to order some shims. Individuals helped each other. I sold mine and figured I'd wait for things to settle. All these designs are new and everyone is shipping as fast as they can. If you want to part with your Partisans, message me. I'm sure drilling the detent a little deeper will sort them out. Or modifying an M16 selector is a good alternative, which is what I use with mine. I’m happy with my Partisan. |
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Originally Posted By BuckeyeRifleman: I bought the G2S pre-cut from AS designs. There are companies out there that offer a trigger cutting service for super safeties that should work with the arc Fire but YMMV. They also charge an arm and a leg IMO. I did cut a mil spec trigger and it wasn’t that hard, as the one that came with my arc Fire sucked… That said I’m not quite brave enough to take a dremel to my SSA. What’s crazy to me is my G2S with the ARC Fire feels significantly better than my SSA. I’m not sure how or why. They measure exactly the same on my scale, both for pre travel and the break. It’s on par with my DMR trigger. I’d like to hear more about this, that’s an interesting observation. I have a ssae-x and it’s wonderful as well. May need to pick up a G2s to compare as it’s much cheaper. |
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Originally Posted By viator: Thanks. ASD is out, but I ordered some blockers from Deez Nutz. I also just ordered 2 more ARC-Fires from Deez Nutz and then 3 G$ G2S triggers from Brownells at an acceptable price. I decided not to wait for a big sale. I'll pull some non-functioning Partisan Disruptor triggers out and put some working triggers in. If these three ARC-Fire/G$ setups work, I'll be all in for more AR15s. What are you using as a pattern to guide your modification of the G$ triggers? I ordered a jig from Deez Nutz and also have a cut trigger from a Hoffman Super Safety that I ordered from AS Designs last week. Will either of these do? I wouldn’t use the jig. I’ll take a pic of mine and a non altered one when I get home later today.its easy man as long as you don’t take off too much material. Just rounding the back left corner. Round it a bit and then sand it to perfect fit. None of mine take more than 5 mins. Even if I have to install/test/remove/sand/reinstall/test The right side? You’ve got a built in guide directly from Bill eta: not gonna lie, G2$ triggers with this mod and arc fire feel better than $$A unmodified ones. Not sure how? |
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Originally Posted By HKH: I just cut another G$ trigger. This time a brand new super dynamic combat flat bow. I’m not ragging on any of you Nancy bois but maybe you aught to have your husbands cut these? It literally takes 2 minutes and it’s easy. I’ve cut 5 now and all work perfectly. 3 G2S, one SSAE, and one SDC. The arc with G$ and lever block is incredible. Do you mind to show some before and after, as well as some side by side before and after photos? TIA @HKH |
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Originally Posted By HKH: I wouldn’t use the jig. I’ll take a pic of mine and a non altered one when I get home later today.its easy man as long as you don’t take off too much material. Just rounding the back left corner. Round it a bit and then sand it to perfect fit. None of mine take more than 5 mins. Even if I have to install/test/remove/sand/reinstall/test The right side? You’ve got a built in guide directly from Bill eta: not gonna lie, G2$ triggers with this mod and arc fire feel better than $$A unmodified ones. Not sure how? Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By viator: Thanks. ASD is out, but I ordered some blockers from Deez Nutz. I also just ordered 2 more ARC-Fires from Deez Nutz and then 3 G$ G2S triggers from Brownells at an acceptable price. I decided not to wait for a big sale. I'll pull some non-functioning Partisan Disruptor triggers out and put some working triggers in. If these three ARC-Fire/G$ setups work, I'll be all in for more AR15s. What are you using as a pattern to guide your modification of the G$ triggers? I ordered a jig from Deez Nutz and also have a cut trigger from a Hoffman Super Safety that I ordered from AS Designs last week. Will either of these do? I wouldn’t use the jig. I’ll take a pic of mine and a non altered one when I get home later today.its easy man as long as you don’t take off too much material. Just rounding the back left corner. Round it a bit and then sand it to perfect fit. None of mine take more than 5 mins. Even if I have to install/test/remove/sand/reinstall/test The right side? You’ve got a built in guide directly from Bill eta: not gonna lie, G2$ triggers with this mod and arc fire feel better than $$A unmodified ones. Not sure how? Thanks for the help. I'll skip the jig as suggested. If I have too much trouble, I'll ask my wife to do it for me.  I, too, would have expected the SSAs to be a better-feeling trigger. Strange things happen. Thanks to those of you who have offered to take the Disruptors off my hands. I am going to keep these triggers for the time being. Other than the selectors, they're not horrible. I've dry fired them about 1,000 times each. That is smoothing out some of the grittiness. I am in the process of putting them on my shelf in anticipation of some yet unplanned builds. My largest problem is that I want to fire my guns now. The Disruptors do not work now. I need ARs that work now. So, to get functioning ARs, I have chosen to remove the Disruptor triggers and put in functioning triggers. This I am doing. I'm obtaining ARC-Fires and G$ G2S triggers. I should have them running long before the middle of February. I also have some of J.D.'s 3 position Arizona Regulators from last summer, so I'm not without FRTs, it's just that the new builds that I want to fire have Disruptors currently installed in them. To clarify things, the 4 Disruptor hosts are not all in the same stage of trigger removal. That's why I speak of them with varying language. Due to my work schedule, if I do not get to the range and start firing my FRTs in the next two weeks, it will be mid to late April or even May before I am able to do so. For me, the clock is tick tock, tick tock. I'm running out of time. If Ben is reading this, I hope that he realizes that I'm not ragging on him. I know that he is injured and has reasons for not getting us our selectors. I'm not blaming Ben. I think that Partisan could have, and should, have handled this better. When I purchased my Disruptors on December 15th, it was part of plan to hopefully receive them within a week or so and then hit the range for almost 2 months. I now have only weeks until the middle of February and no possibility of firing my Disruptors any time soon. I purchased the Hoffman Super Safety as kind of a joke. I have never been interested in them. I have an Anderson stripped lower sitting around that I decided to FRT. It only seemed fitting to me - in some kind of weird way - that the Anderson would be a fitting recipient of the laterally-sliding safety. I hate the idea of this type of safety, but I figured that it would do as a range toy. I have many decades of muscle memory developed with standard full auto M16 selectors and AR15 semi auto selectors. My thumb flips a safety to fire or to full auto in one smooth movement without even thinking about it. I do not want to confuse that with a Super Safety. When I move my thumb without thinking, I need it to do what I expect it to do. But, for a range toy, I think that a Super Safety will be a blast. I think that I bought it more for other folks than myself. Or, alternatively, as is mentioned, I could have purchased 4 aftermarket full auto selectors. I considered that for several weeks, but I chose not to do that. I'd rather spend the money on 3 much better ARC-Fire/G$ G2S than those 4 selectors. And, after I put aftermarket selectors in the Disruptor, I would still have a Disruptor which I consider a less valuable option. Once I receive the current iteration of Disruptor selectors, if I find them lacking, then I probably will pay for 4 modified full auto selectors from someone here on ARFCOM. At that point, I would either need to bring the Disruptors up to my standards or sell them. But, that is in the future. I bear no ill will toward Partisan Triggers. If their LMT proves to be as good or better than my new ARC-Fire/G$ G2S triggers, then I'll buy some LMTs. I had really only planned on FRTing about a dozen and a half of my AR15s, but if i get 15 or 18 FRTs and a really exciting model emerges, I doubt that I would be able to fight the urge to pick some up. I'm not going to talk about this anymore in this thread because I think that I am taking the thread off topic. Back to ARC-Fires! |
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***I am not a gunsmith just a drooling idiot on the internet. Do not take my advice as you may destroy your expensive G$ trigger*** This has worked for five out of five G$ triggers. Using the V1 ARC FIRE. I have not used this for any others. Don’t blame me if you’ve got a run away dremel or your volume only goes to 11. Be gentle, use lube, make it comfortable as you violate this lovely thing. You want her to invite you back to enjoy her over and over and go faster and faster. If you’re an ogre and brute force it you get what you deserve. Alright fellas…. Let’s take a shot at a pictorial. I’ll update the post, so it may take some time to complete. * the uncut trigger is a Super Dynamic Enhanced and the modified is a Super Dynamic Combat. Same trigger dimensions so all is equal. Uncut right side SDE  Cut Right Side SDC  *UnROUNDED left side SDE  *ROUNDED left side SDC  Side by side  Side by side  Unmodified SDE  Modified SDC  Unmodified SDE  Modified SDE   |
| Very nice, HKH. Bookmarked. Thank you. |
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I installed my Arc-Fire tonight. Safe works, Fire works, there’s no binding, and everything has full movement—but Super Safe mode is not working correctly. When the lever moves back, it does not fully release the trigger from the disconnector. As a result, when the lever moves forward again, the hammer does not drop. I am using the trigger that came with the Arc-Fire, completely untouched as it was out of the pack. I’ve also tried three different hammer and disconnector combinations, and they all behave the same way. I’m wondering if I may have a bad Arc-Fire unit or a bad trigger. Any suggestions appreciated. I’ve included pictures of the Arc trigger below, along with a video showing exactly what’s happening.   
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Originally Posted By HKH: I just cut another G$ trigger. This time a brand new super dynamic combat flat bow. I’m not ragging on any of you Nancy bois but maybe you aught to have your husbands cut these? It literally takes 2 minutes and it’s easy. I’ve cut 5 now and all work perfectly. 3 G2S, one SSAE, and one SDC. The arc with G$ and lever block is incredible. Can we get a good actual pic of the cut? Thnx |
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Originally Posted By HKH: ***I am not a gunsmith just a drooling idiot on the internet. Do not take my advice as you may destroy your expensive G$ trigger*** This has worked for five out of five G$ triggers. Using the V1 ARC FIRE. I have not used this for any others. Don’t blame me if you’ve got a run away dremel or your volume only goes to 11. Be gentle, use lube, make it comfortable as you violate this lovely thing. You want her to invite you back to enjoy her over and over and go faster and faster. If you’re an ogre and brute force it you get what you deserve. Alright fellas…. Let’s take a shot at a pictorial. I’ll update the post, so it may take some time to complete. * the uncut trigger is a Super Dynamic Enhanced and the modified is a Super Dynamic Combat. Same trigger dimensions so all is equal. Uncut right side SDE https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_9778-3701679.jpg Cut Right Side SDC https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_9779-3701680.jpg *UnROUNDED left side SDE https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_9780-3701681.jpg *ROUNDED left side SDC https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_9781-3701682.jpg Side by side https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/Image-3701705.jpg Side by side https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/Image-3701717.jpg Unmodified SDE https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_9782-3701684.jpg Modified SDC https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_9783-3701685.jpg Unmodified SDE https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_9787-3701706.jpg Modified SDE https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_9788-3701707.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/99571/IMG_9785-3701722.jpg  A mod should definitely sticky this...somehow. Thank you! I thought these were the mods that needed to be done, but I wasn't sure until you thoughtfully explained it and masterfully photographed it! 
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Another question: Are the G$ cut triggers above also what works with the ARC-Fire and AS Designs mp5 lowers? Put another way, do the ASD mp5 lowers require a different mod to G$ triggers than the "standard" ARC-fire mods? |
"Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the government of any other." - John Adams
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Originally Posted By carholio: AS Designs never has the pre cut G"s in stock. Who cut yours? I've seen mention of mid tier defense but $70 seems kinda steep. Deez nuts has the cut G's in stock, I assume they'd work with the arc fire too? But then I'd need to buy a whole nother trigger. Thanks @carholio I ordered my precut SSA-E from Deez nuts and it has been great. Got it fairly quickly and it was nicely done. I think earlier in this thread (many pages back) AS Designs mentioned that they use the same machinist. |
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Originally Posted By 55Kingpin: Another question: Are the G$ cut triggers above also what works with the ARC-Fire and AS Designs mp5 lowers? Put another way, do the ASD mp5 lowers require a different mod to G$ triggers than the "standard" ARC-fire mods? It is the same. You’re adjusting the trigger to interact with the ARC itself no matter the host. |
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Originally Posted By HKH: It is the same. You’re adjusting the trigger to interact with the ARC itself no matter the host. Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By 55Kingpin: Another question: Are the G$ cut triggers above also what works with the ARC-Fire and AS Designs mp5 lowers? Put another way, do the ASD mp5 lowers require a different mod to G$ triggers than the "standard" ARC-fire mods? It is the same. You’re adjusting the trigger to interact with the ARC itself no matter the host. Don't you need a rounded hammer for certain non AR guns, and for 9mm ARs? |
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It is rather straightforward. Here are some reference photos and measurements for my MCX G$ trigger that I cut a few weeks back using the AS Designs jig! I had to shave off a bit more to get it to cycle reliably and have a matching trigger pull in semi and ARC. If you need any tips or tricks, please feel free to reach out! I would also be open to cutting some for those who are not the most confident in doing it themselves! ^_^ https://gyazo.com/8209b3f5b35959243238bdd61b7c738b https://gyazo.com/49217b9b0d01d3d8e28a05a625a0ac5b https://gyazo.com/98f1b286d25646e5cdc683b987a6555d https://gyazo.com/b5376b9b22e7676095f0fc7be7d542b1 |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Don't you need a rounded hammer for certain non AR guns, and for 9mm ARs? Sorry I misread. I don’t know about Geissele in the mp5. But yes you do have to round the ar15 hammer using mil spec stuff. I do use a jig for that for both my MP5F and MP5K as I have an arc in the F gun and a SS in the K still. I’ve got slip trips and garden hose pieces and something else that extends the carrier somehow. It takes a bunch of shit to get them running but they do certainly run lol. I actually use the ARC in a Lee sporting lower even though si3grd? Recommends against it. I’m sure I’ll break it eventually but it’s fun shooting it while it holds up. Thst new 9X series trigger pack that’s self contained will be th end all be all for the legacy 9X guns. Can’t wait for that. |
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I been messing with mine a few more hours today. With the Arc trigger that came with it, when I moved the lever to the rear, it started to reset but still left the trigger slightly caught on the disconnector. I studied the design and how it functions all night. I even broke out my endoscope and trigger jig to see exactly what was happening. I read through all of AS Designs’ troubleshooting material, and my issue narrowed down to four possible solutions. It wasn’t the first two—solutions three and four were the only ones left. Issue: The trigger does not reset when the lever is moved as far back as it can go. Solution 3 (ARC-Fire specific): This may indicate the ARC-Fire assembly is too “loose” internally, and the reset point is too far rearward to be properly actuated. Please contact us for a replacement part. Solution 4: The trigger may be overcut. Please contact us if you purchased the trigger from us. I also read through all 18 pages of this topic, along with several other discussions online. It seems many people have no issues at all, while many others experience this same or similar problem. I think it ultimately comes down to how much is going on here: the trigger, sear, disconnector hook, trigger hook, and the Arc-Fire itself. If each of these components is off by just a few thousandths—whether due to manufacturing differences or tolerance stacking—things don’t always work together properly. At this point, I’ve tried several different disconnector and hammer combinations, and I’ve sanded and shaped multiple triggers. What I’ve noticed with mine is that the cam on the Arc-Fire is either out of spec, or the trigger has to be perfect to function correctly with it—and I still haven’t been able to achieve that. If too much material is removed from the tip of the trigger (like the original ARC trigger it came with), the cam doesn’t push the trigger bar down far enough to allow it to clear the disconnector and fire. If you leave enough material on the bar for the Arc-Fire cam to fully press it down and clear the disconnector, then the trigger pull becomes extremely heavy—possibly 25 pounds or more—just to get it to fire. At least in my case, I’m struggling to find the sweet spot between the two. I knew from reading online that there was about a 50/50 chance I’d need to do some tweaking and tuning to make it work, but I never imagined it would be this bad. Several triggers and it either stays caught on the disconnector or a 25lb pull. That’s the reason for this post. I don’t think mine can be made to work properly with a mil-spec trigger, but hopefully this helps others who may be running into the same issue. |
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Originally Posted By HKH: I use a carbide dremel bit Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: If one were to cut their own trigger, what is the best tool for that? I use a carbide dremel bit |
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Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: Would a die grinder be a better choice? Or is a dremel adequate? Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: If one were to cut their own trigger, what is the best tool for that? I use a carbide dremel bit I used a grinder on my dremel for the easy cut, the right side, and used high grit sandpaper attachment for the other side. Hit it once just to smooth out the sharp part and install/test. Do this until you get a solid reset. Only take a swipe or 2 at a time. Go slow and install and test every time you make a change |
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Don't you need a rounded hammer for certain non AR guns, and for 9mm ARs? Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By HKH: Originally Posted By 55Kingpin: Another question: Are the G$ cut triggers above also what works with the ARC-Fire and AS Designs mp5 lowers? Put another way, do the ASD mp5 lowers require a different mod to G$ triggers than the "standard" ARC-fire mods? It is the same. You’re adjusting the trigger to interact with the ARC itself no matter the host. Don't you need a rounded hammer for certain non AR guns, and for 9mm ARs? Yeah - that was a point I was hoping to get clarity on. Maybe @s3igu2 or @ASDesigns or @Jeremy2171 could help shed light on all of the required mods to a G$ trigger to make it compatible with the ARC-fire in the AS Designs MP5 and MP5k lowers. I'd like to do it right the first time.
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"Our Constitution was made only for a moral and religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the government of any other." - John Adams
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Originally Posted By tortilla-flats: Would a die grinder be a better choice? Or is a dremel adequate? I’d say whatever you feel most comfortable with. I’m a freaking surgeon with this thing  Look at my discos that I used to convert my two position AZreg to 3 position ones. This guy does it all 
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I ran 300 rounds through my AP5-P SBR with my Wolfman on it today without a single malfunction. I’ve put an 80 degree locking piece in and headspaced the bolt with HK rollers. Full AS Designs lower with ARC Fire and SSA-E trigger. You can’t feel the trigger reset when live firing. It ate American Eagle 147’s, HST 147’s, Ranger 147’s without issue. Didn’t want to completely mag dump it the first time out at the indoor range and put rounds in the ceiling. Waiting on my approval for my Strake 9. AS Designs complete lower with Geissele SD-E trigger 509T-GR X2 B&T pic rail Trijicon mount B&T stock Phase 5 short grip MI rail Minidot Rail Scales Dead Air Wolfman on a 3 lug    January 27, 2026 |
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| I'm not going to guarantee it's the issue, but I can tell you those Strike Industries FCG housing things are CONSTANTLY out of spec. I'll take perfectly fine FCGs and basic super safeties from a good lower, put it in that housing, then suddenly it doesn't work at all. We used to have them as demo things at shows, but they required custom fitment on every FCG/safety installed to be reliable. |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: Ok, I swapped back on the original left side selector lever on my A2 and just gave it a try. I only did the left side as the right side can not really have any effect on it. All the control is on the left lever. It is now back to running 100%. I just put 100 rounds through it. The first 10 were semi auto to verify function and safety check, then the other 90 of them were just mag dumps. It mag dumped perfectly without a single hint of a issue. So this pretty much confirms there is something going on with the new milspec levers. Something is not jiving between them and my arc-fires. Not sure if it matters, but my arc-fires are part of the very first run. I pre ordered them as soon as the pre order went live. So is it possible there has been a slight change between now and then? @s3igu2 I think my reply got lost in this thread. Any clues as to why the new milspec lever would be causing my issue? Something out of spec, just not sure if it is a lever issue or arc-fire issue. I had also contacted ASD through their website when the issue came up and they responded at about the same time as you asking if it worked if I swapped back. I responded yes. They sent me a prepaid label to send the parts back, but did not specify if they wanted just the levers, or the whole arc-fire assembly too. Once I hear back I will send out what they want. |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: I'm not going to guarantee it's the issue, but I can tell you those Strike Industries FCG housing things are CONSTANTLY out of spec. I'll take perfectly fine FCGs and basic super safeties from a good lower, put it in that housing, then suddenly it doesn't work at all. We used to have them as demo things at shows, but they required custom fitment on every FCG/safety installed to be reliable. There may be some merit to this. I’ve now tried five different lowers, three different hammer and disconnector combinations, and six different triggers, including the one that came with the Arc-Fire. With the Arc-Fire and the included trigger left completely untouched, and after trying all of these combinations across the five lowers, none of them work correctly. I can get one specific combination to sort of work in the Strike Industries jig if I push the lever hard to about the 5 o’clock position and tighten it down. That same combination, however, does not work in any of the five lowers. This leads me to believe the Strike Industries jig must be slightly different dimensionally. Either way, after roughly 30 hours of fiddling, testing half a dozen lowers, and trying numerous trigger, hammer, and disconnector combinations, I’m now convinced that I have an Arc-Fire unit that is out of spec now.  AS Designs Arc Fire |
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Originally Posted By Jeeps-And-Guns: @s3igu2 I think my reply got lost in this thread. Any clues as to why the new milspec lever would be causing my issue? Something out of spec, just not sure if it is a lever issue or arc-fire issue. I had also contacted ASD through their website when the issue came up and they responded at about the same time as you asking if it worked if I swapped back. I responded yes. They sent me a prepaid label to send the parts back, but did not specify if they wanted just the levers, or the whole arc-fire assembly too. Once I hear back I will send out what they want. @Jeeps-And-Guns Just curious here, have you tried installing the selector and tightening it down while pushing it left or right? I only ask because while trying to get mine to work at all, I noticed that shifting the lever can get it working somewhat, so lever position does seem to affect things. If you look at the 4:00 mark in their video, they mention this as well. https://vimeo.com/1131190745/c207251596?fl=pl&fe=vl |
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Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: I ran 300 rounds through my AP5-P SBR with my Wolfman on it today without a single malfunction. I’ve swapped out the ejector for an HK part, set the headspace with new rollers and put an 80 degree locking piece in. Full AS Design lower with ARC Fire and SSA-E trigger. You can’t feel the trigger reset when live firing. It ate American Eagle 147’s, HST 147’s, Ranger 147’s without issue. Didn’t want to completely mag dump it the first time out at the indoor range and put rounds in the ceiling. Waiting on my approval for a Strake 9. 509T-GR X2 B&T pic rail Trijicon mount B&T stock Phase 5 short grip MI rail Minidot Rail Scales Dead Air Wolfman on a 3 lug https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/31823/A197DF3D-BA84-4EF1-A735-51FDBE69FDBB-3703131.jpg https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/31823/47CA5C78-5CC1-47E9-9B2C-B41F3A3A26B4-3703132.jpg  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xWWXG6umWisIs that the AS Designs lower? Sorry if that is a stupid question, but it looks different from the pictures on the AS Designs web site. |
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: I'm not going to guarantee it's the issue, but I can tell you those Strike Industries FCG housing things are CONSTANTLY out of spec. I'll take perfectly fine FCGs and basic super safeties from a good lower, put it in that housing, then suddenly it doesn't work at all. We used to have them as demo things at shows, but they required custom fitment on every FCG/safety installed to be reliable. Attached File |
Know Guns, Know Peace, Know Safety...No Guns, No Peace, No Safety
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Originally Posted By Shane733: @Jeeps-And-Guns Just curious here, have you tried installing the selector and tightening it down while pushing it left or right? I only ask because while trying to get mine to work at all, I noticed that shifting the lever can get it working somewhat, so lever position does seem to affect things. If you look at the 4:00 mark in their video, they mention this as well. https://vimeo.com/1131190745/c207251596?fl=pl&fe=vl When I installed it originally, I lined up the left side lever with the right side one, since the right side one is solid. It worked great. I did the same thing with the milspec levers and had issues. I did not try adjusting it either direction as it would have put the levers out of alignment. s3igu2 and ASD customer support have been very helpful and they are sending me new detent bars as they suspect that may be my issue. I will update when I get them, install and test. I will say I am happy there are still companies that case about their customers. |
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Originally Posted By Hanz: Is this what we're talking about? https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/15373/IMG_4580_jpeg-3703533.JPG Originally Posted By Hanz: Originally Posted By ASDesigns: I'm not going to guarantee it's the issue, but I can tell you those Strike Industries FCG housing things are CONSTANTLY out of spec. I'll take perfectly fine FCGs and basic super safeties from a good lower, put it in that housing, then suddenly it doesn't work at all. We used to have them as demo things at shows, but they required custom fitment on every FCG/safety installed to be reliable. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/15373/IMG_4580_jpeg-3703533.JPG Yep |
"My friend, you would not tell with such high zest
To children ardent for some desperate glory,
The old Lie: Dulce et decorum est
Pro patria mori." -Wilfred Owen
To children ardent for some desperate glory,
The old Lie: Dulce et decorum est
Pro patria mori." -Wilfred Owen
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Arc fire just came in. I have a spare Rock River lower I was going to install it in. It looks to be “high shelf”. Will the trigger work in it or do I need to swap it out with one of my low shelf lowers? I’m looking at this being high shelf. Before I disassemble it I want to make sure it will work. Attached File |
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Originally Posted By glock23c: Arc fire just came in. I have a spare Rock River lower I was going to install it in. It looks to be "high shelf". Will the trigger work in it or do I need to swap it out with one of my low shelf lowers? I'm looking at this being high shelf. Before I disassemble it I want to make sure it will work. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/18977/IMG_0635_jpeg-3704027.JPG |
Know Guns, Know Peace, Know Safety...No Guns, No Peace, No Safety
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Originally Posted By Hanz: That is a high shelf. AS Designs doesn't guarantee fit or function in a high shelf lower. I'd get a low shelf. Yup. Lowers are cheap. You can sent it to ADCO to get it milled, or dremel it yourself, but it’s probably cheaper to just get a new lower. |
The posts made on this forum are purely my private opinion and don’t represent any employer or entity I am professionally associated with.
ARC-Fire Talk (G$ trigger mod instructions inside) (Page 18 of 28)
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