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ARC Fire V2 (Page 9 of 13)
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Originally Posted By EDL: Any idea if AS is going to offer (or does offer) a V2 0-45-90 NON-ambi? I don't see one on their site. I got the ambi and left the right-side lever uninstalled (I actually had to because it didn’t seem to function reliably in my lower with the lever installed). I prefer it without the right-side lever, and the exposed keyway/screw hole don’t bother me. |
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Originally Posted By StealthyBlagga: I got the ambi and left the right-side lever uninstalled (I actually had to because it didn’t seem to function reliably in my lower with the lever installed). I prefer it without the right-side lever, and the exposed keyway/screw hole don’t bother me. OK, an option, but then I'm paying an extra $50 for the privilege of leaving the lever off. You could cut the head off the screw, twist it in to fill the hole and then file it flat and recoat it. Nah, too much work for little to no reward. Or fill the hole with JB weld or something, lol. Ok, well, if they aren't going to offer the non-ambi in 45-90, I'll just go with the non-ambi 90-180. I don't think the it will make that much of a difference one way or the other. |
| Just a heads up, my V2’s, which I ordered the first week or so of when they were released, came with defective pre cut mil spec triggers, causing it to not reset and hammer follow in regular semi when bench testing. It was a simple fix with a file, and only took a minute, but I spent a lot of time swapping lowers and the actual ARC Fire parts around before realizing it was the included triggers. The triggers that came with my V1’s were good, and actually parkerized after modification for the Arc Fires. The bad triggers had the cuts left as bare metal, and basically had a step in the middle that should not have been there. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By tac556: Just a heads up, my V2’s, which I ordered the first week or so of when they were released, came with defective pre cut mil spec triggers, causing it to not reset and hammer follow in regular semi when bench testing. It was a simple fix with a file, and only took a minute, but I spent a lot of time swapping lowers and the actual ARC Fire parts around before realizing it was the included triggers. The triggers that came with my V1’s were good, and actually parkerized after modification for the Arc Fires. The bad triggers had the cuts left as bare metal, and basically had a step in the middle that should not have been there. I posted up a photo of my V2 supplied trigger on page 8 and never got a reply. According to an email and photo I sent to them questioning that step, they said that's how they're cutting them now...Did your's look like the step on mine?  " />
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Here's a question, not sure of it matters or not, but... I'm seeing some folks say their V2 doesn't work, or they're having issues with it, others are dropping them straight in and good to go. I wonder if the particular model makes any difference? 0-90-180 vs 0-45-90, ambi or no ambi? Would be an interesting data point if nothing else. Might not be any correlation, or maybe there is? |
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Originally Posted By ITSARIDDLE: I posted up a photo of my V2 supplied trigger on page 8 and never got a reply. According to an email and photo I sent to them questioning that step, they said that's how they're cutting them now...Did your's look like the step on mine?https://i.postimg.cc/T3SbZQhW/IMG-20260513-033231-2.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/T3SbZQhW/IMG-20260513-033231-2.jpg My V2 kit included a cut trigger with the weird step that looks the same as this one, but I didn't use the included trigger since I installed my self-cut SSA-EX with the V2 (functions fine in dry fire). |
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Originally Posted By ITSARIDDLE: I posted up a photo of my V2 supplied trigger on page 8 and never got a reply. According to an email and photo I sent to them questioning that step, they said that's how they're cutting them now...Did your's look like the step on mine?https://i.postimg.cc/T3SbZQhW/IMG-20260513-033231-2.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/T3SbZQhW/IMG-20260513-033231-2.jpg Originally Posted By ITSARIDDLE: Originally Posted By tac556: Just a heads up, my V2’s, which I ordered the first week or so of when they were released, came with defective pre cut mil spec triggers, causing it to not reset and hammer follow in regular semi when bench testing. It was a simple fix with a file, and only took a minute, but I spent a lot of time swapping lowers and the actual ARC Fire parts around before realizing it was the included triggers. The triggers that came with my V1’s were good, and actually parkerized after modification for the Arc Fires. The bad triggers had the cuts left as bare metal, and basically had a step in the middle that should not have been there. I posted up a photo of my V2 supplied trigger on page 8 and never got a reply. According to an email and photo I sent to them questioning that step, they said that's how they're cutting them now...Did your's look like the step on mine?https://i.postimg.cc/T3SbZQhW/IMG-20260513-033231-2.jpg" target="_blank">https://i.postimg.cc/T3SbZQhW/IMG-20260513-033231-2.jpg Yep- exactly how they looked, with that ledge in the middle. Would not work with V1 or V2 until I filed that down. Worked fine at the range today after I fixed that area. No idea why they are cutting them like that, but that cut doesn’t work in multiple lowers, nor with either the V1 or V2 setups. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By TZLVredmist: Here is another picture. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/47383/PXL_20260608_213006040-3775601.jpg maybe you got those triggers (which look great) because they are newer production ones? My problematic machined triggers were with 90/180 non ambi V2’s. Totally useless as shipped. My prior V1’s had triggers that were coated like the ones in your picture, but might have been machined slightly differently possibly. Same general idea though. Those were fine by comparison. I would post a pic, but I am not sure where my uninstalled set ended up, might have put it in a gun I guess! |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By tac556: maybe you got those triggers (which look great) because they are newer production ones? My problematic machined triggers were with 90/180 non ambi V2’s. Totally useless as shipped. My prior V1’s had triggers that were coated like the ones in your picture, but might have been machined slightly differently possibly. Same general idea though. Those were fine by comparison. I would post a pic, but I am not sure where my uninstalled set ended up, might have put it in a gun I guess! Mine was 90/180 non ambi V2 also...But the IDIOTS at AS Design said that's the way they're cutting the trigger tail now. That's some lame service, especially when I said I would Dremel the step if it's not supposed to be there. Also, I got mine about a month ago. |
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I’m 1 for 3 with ARC Fires. I bought two ambi 0-45-90’s with HK levers and regular levers and neither will let the hammer drop in any mode in my HK MR556 A4 or an LWRC M6. I tried the factory trigger and both included triggers in the HK and the LWRC. I spent a few hours swapping parts and mixing and matching, but nada. My full ARC Fire lower for my AP5-P SBR runs like a scalded dog. I just emailed ASD for a return. I have a Lima Six and a Inoculum lower coming and I’m not sure what I’m going to do now. |
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Originally Posted By ChemTrailZ: Almost seems like the v2 was designed with Geissele trigger in mind? Very doubtful, as the mil spec trigger cut area is what is different and causing issues. How many people are going to use G trigger compared to basic single stage mil spec ones? One in 20? Likely less than that, maybe 1 in 50? Especially when a good smooth mil spec trigger can be pretty decent. Even the basic one in my V1 ARC Fire smoothed out a lot within a few hundred rounds and a bunch of dry cycling. Neither the V1 or V2 parts would work at all with the V2 supplied trigger. That isn’t a design change with the actual Arc Fire system, it is improperly cut included mil spec triggers. So far we have yet to hear why exactly ASD changed the included triggers, and induced issues. I didn’t bother to contact them as it was such a simple fix once I realized what the issue was. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: I’m 1 for 3 with ARC Fires. I bought two ambi 0-45-90’s with HK levers and regular levers and neither will let the hammer drop in any mode in my HK MR556 A4 or an LWRC M6. I tried the factory trigger and both included triggers in the HK and the LWRC. I spent a few hours swapping parts and mixing and matching, but nada. My full ARC Fire lower for my AP5-P SBR runs like a scalded dog. I just emailed ASD for a return. I have a Lima Six and a Inoculum lower coming and I’m not sure what I’m going to do now. That's so odd. Mine never had any issue dropping the hammer in my HK. Even when it was sputtering, it still fired just fine. |
DEUS VULT
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Originally Posted By Alpha-17: That's so odd. Mine never had any issue dropping the hammer in my HK. Even when it was sputtering, it still fired just fine. It’s extremely disappointing. I bought my HK specifically to FRT. I’m glad I didn’t drop $1500 on the 416 bolt. As,soon as I removed the ARC Fire, the trigger would work. With everything installed, the trip,lever would lock the bolt up and keep it from cycling iwhether I had the rifle flat or pointed down. ASD told me I needed a cut Geissele. I don’t see how that would fix the bolt locking up issue. Maybe ASD will get it sorted out with some more refinement and the longer lever they are specifically developing for the MR’s. I’ll revisit the idea one day. I’m more concerned about what to do with this Lima 6/Inoculum build I’m ass deep in. I’m not wasting more time or money on the current 0-45-90 ARC Fire. I’m already getting whacked with a 10% restocking fee and return shipping. I’ll be out $65 or so for nothing. At least I didn’t waste any ammo, gas and time at the range. |
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Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: It’s extremely disappointing. I bought my HK specifically to FRT. I’m glad I didn’t drop $1500 on the 416 bolt. As,soon as I removed the ARC Fire, the trigger would work. With everything installed, the trip,lever would lock the bolt up and keep it from cycling iwhether I had the rifle flat or pointed down. ASD told me I needed a cut Geissele. I don’t see how that would fix the bolt locking up issue. Maybe ASD will get it sorted out with some more refinement and the longer lever they are specifically developing for the MR’s. I don't suppose you have any pictures or video of the ARC Fire installed, or of the issues it was causing, do you? I'd love to see how it was hanging up. That sounds like a fundamental incompatibility issue or machining problem, nothing to do with it being an HK lower/rifle or needing a Geissele. So weird. |
DEUS VULT
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Originally Posted By Alpha-17: I don't suppose you have any pictures or video of the ARC Fire installed, or of the issues it was causing, do you? I'd love to see how it was hanging up. That sounds like a fundamental incompatibility issue or machining problem, nothing to do with it being an HK lower/rifle or needing a Geissele. So weird. I don’t have any pics. Sometimes I could only pull the charging handle 1/4” or so before it would stop. The trigger felt like it was on safe when it was in full semi or semi. |
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Shipped 5/26/26 0-90-180 Non Ambi Have not installed yet Looks a little better than some of the ones I am seeing on here that look like they were machined by a one eyed beaver with a chipped tooth. Any machinist worth his salt would be ashamed. Sounds like some tweaking may be required?? 
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Originally Posted By ITSARIDDLE: According to tac556, that middle step is what was causing his function problems....He removed the step from what I understand. Correct- but I didn’t even need to totally remove it, just filed it down until things worked. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: I don’t have any pics. Sometimes I could only pull the charging handle 1/4” or so before it would stop. The trigger felt like it was on safe when it was in full semi or semi. There are a number of FRT manufacturers saying that they do not fit the HK platform. I honestly have zero clue how the MR series differs from the AR design, I have only dealt with the actual 416, and well it didn’t need an FRT…. HK may have done something that screws things up. Try it in a regular AR. Only other data point I have on the HK front is that we used regular AR style Simunition bolts in our 416’s, and they ran great in semi and F/A with sims. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By tac556: There are a number of FRT manufacturers saying that they do not fit the HK platform. I honestly have zero clue how the MR series differs from the AR design, I have only dealt with the actual 416, and well it didn’t need an FRT…. HK may have done something that screws things up. Try it in a regular AR. Only other data point I have on the HK front is that we used regular AR style Simunition bolts in our 416’s, and they ran great in semi and F/A with sims. I did try it in a regular AR (See my post above). I tried every combination of parts you can put together using both kits in my HK and LWRC and nothing worked in either one. |
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Originally Posted By ITSARIDDLE: Mine was 90/180 non ambi V2 also...But the IDIOTS at AS Design said that's the way they're cutting the trigger tail now. That's some lame service, especially when I said I would Dremel the step if it's not supposed to be there. Also, I got mine about a month ago. Originally Posted By ITSARIDDLE: Mine was 90/180 non ambi V2 also...But the IDIOTS at AS Design said that's the way they're cutting the trigger tail now. That's some lame service, especially when I said I would Dremel the step if it's not supposed to be there. Also, I got mine about a month ago. We have a few different trigger suppliers. The stepped version is from DNT and works well for the vast majority of customers, apologies if yours did not. The quantity of triggers we go through is abnormal for most trigger manufacturers in the industry (so their capacity is not scaled up) so we occasionally need fill-in from friendly vendors (i.e. DNT), otherwise we would just be out of stock for extended periods of time. Originally Posted By tac556: There are a number of FRT manufacturers saying that they do not fit the HK platform. I honestly have zero clue how the MR series differs from the AR design, I have only dealt with the actual 416, and well it didn’t need an FRT…. HK may have done something that screws things up. Try it in a regular AR. Only other data point I have on the HK front is that we used regular AR style Simunition bolts in our 416’s, and they ran great in semi and F/A with sims. The issue with MR models is the "half-semi" BCG they use instead of the standard full-auto BCG the 416 uses. The sear trip surface comes just far enough forward to work with ARC-Fire, but makes a lot of FRTs not quite finish the reset/unlock actions cause it's like 1/8-1/4" back (I don't remember the exact distance off-hand). So yes, HK did something cause they hate civilians, as usual 
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Originally Posted By ASDesigns: We have a few different trigger suppliers. The stepped version is from DNT and works well for the vast majority of customers, apologies if yours did not. The quantity of triggers we go through is abnormal for most trigger manufacturers in the industry (so their capacity is not scaled up) so we occasionally need fill-in from friendly vendors (i.e. DNT), otherwise we would just be out of stock for extended periods of time. The issue with MR models is the "half-semi" BCG they use instead of the standard full-auto BCG the 416 uses. The sear trip surface comes just far enough forward to work with ARC-Fire, but makes a lot of FRTs not quite finish the reset/unlock actions cause it's like 1/8-1/4" back (I don't remember the exact distance off-hand). So yes, HK did something cause they hate civilians, as usual Thanks for the update and information, both explanations make sense. It was a simple fix once I figured out it was the trigger and not the Arc Fire system parts. Not surprised about HK screwing over buyers of the MR series either- don’t think they got the same spec barrels as actual 416’s have either (416 barrels are awesome by the way). But at least HK still charged ludicrous prices for them… About to sacrifice a G2S and ALG ACT to the Arc Fire altar just to see if I have a preference over a good worn in mil spec single stage trigger. I love the ACT trigger, have multiples already in various guns, not sure I am gonna like or prefer the 2 stage G2S by comparison. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: I did try it in a regular AR (See my post above). I tried every combination of parts you can put together using both kits in my HK and LWRC and nothing worked in either one. I see nothing in any of your posts about you trying them out in a regular AR- the HK is a piston design, apparently with a semi style carrier. LWRC is another piston design. The 416 has some additional features in the BCG as well, such as a spring loaded pin and some kind of safety as well I believe, LWRC I don’t recall what the BCG is like. A regular AR is something with a low shelf, standard gas system, regular old full auto carrier, correct buffer weight, and possibly a correct style hammer as well. There are a lot of things that have to work together, and parts made by different companies, to various specs and tolerances as well. (I know people have shown notched hammers working with FRT’s, but they were designed to stop F/A parts use, and I have yet to personally fiddle with a notched hammer plus an frt, which is why I added that to the list). And hell, the included triggers I got in my V2 purchase needed modification to function. Every original style Hoffman SS I tried needed some sanding on the lever to work, but that is still the simplest and easiest system to make work. But the Arc Fire is pretty easy from an installation point of view, but it clearly is a lot more complicated design. Basically all FRT’s require some adjustment at times to work in even standard configuration guns. None of your 3 setups are actually standard configuration. Eliminating variables is how you diagnose weapon issues to begin with. The people who insist on doing otherwise seem to have the most problems… |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By tac556: I see nothing in any of your posts about you trying them out in a regular AR- the HK is a piston design, apparently with a semi style carrier. LWRC is another piston design. The 416 has some additional features in the BCG as well, such as a spring loaded pin and some kind of safety as well I believe, LWRC I don’t recall what the BCG is like. A regular AR is something with a low shelf, standard gas system, regular old full auto carrier, correct buffer weight, and possibly a correct style hammer as well. There are a lot of things that have to work together, and parts made by different companies, to various specs and tolerances as well. (I know people have shown notched hammers working with FRT’s, but they were designed to stop F/A parts use, and I have yet to personally fiddle with a notched hammer plus an frt, which is why I added that to the list). And hell, the included triggers I got in my V2 purchase needed modification to function. Every original style Hoffman SS I tried needed some sanding on the lever to work, but that is still the simplest and easiest system to make work. But the Arc Fire is pretty easy from an installation point of view, but it clearly is a lot more complicated design. Basically all FRT’s require some adjustment at times to work in even standard configuration guns. None of your 3 setups are actually standard configuration. Eliminating variables is how you diagnose weapon issues to begin with. The people who insist on doing otherwise seem to have the most problems… The LWRC I tried the parts in is from 2006 or 2007 and a completely milspec lower. There’s nothing odd about the HK lower either. The operating system used in either has nothing to do with the triggers being locked up. Nor does it have anything to do with being sold parts that I was told could be used with milspec FCG’s and then being told that I needed a pre-cut Geissele HK trigger. ASD has “coming soon” on their HK Geissele pre-cut trigger page. The install guide for the MR556 is either wrong or whoever answered my email is wrong. I didn’t try 3 setups, I tried 2. I can pull another LWRC SBR out from 2006’ish but it’s a 6.8 that I have absolutely shot the ever living piss out of. I don’t really want to feed and FRT’d 6.8. It also has a milspec lower. |
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Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: The LWRC I tried the parts in is from 2006 or 2007 and a completely milspec lower. There's nothing odd about the HK lower either. The operating system used in either has nothing to do with the triggers being locked up. Nor does it have anything to do with being sold parts that I was told could be used with milspec FCG's and then being told that I needed a pre-cut Geissele HK trigger. ASD has "coming soon' on their HK Geissele pre-cut trigger,page. The install guide for the MR556 is either wrong or whoever answered my email is wrong. I didn't try 3 setups, I tried 2. I can pull another LWRC SBR out from 2006'ish but it's a 6.8 that I have absolutely shot the ever living piss out of. I don't really want to feed and FRT'd 6.8. It also has a milspec lower. Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: Originally Posted By tac556: I see nothing in any of your posts about you trying them out in a regular AR- the HK is a piston design, apparently with a semi style carrier. LWRC is another piston design. The 416 has some additional features in the BCG as well, such as a spring loaded pin and some kind of safety as well I believe, LWRC I don't recall what the BCG is like. A regular AR is something with a low shelf, standard gas system, regular old full auto carrier, correct buffer weight, and possibly a correct style hammer as well. There are a lot of things that have to work together, and parts made by different companies, to various specs and tolerances as well. (I know people have shown notched hammers working with FRT's, but they were designed to stop F/A parts use, and I have yet to personally fiddle with a notched hammer plus an frt, which is why I added that to the list). And hell, the included triggers I got in my V2 purchase needed modification to function. Every original style Hoffman SS I tried needed some sanding on the lever to work, but that is still the simplest and easiest system to make work. But the Arc Fire is pretty easy from an installation point of view, but it clearly is a lot more complicated design. Basically all FRT's require some adjustment at times to work in even standard configuration guns. None of your 3 setups are actually standard configuration. Eliminating variables is how you diagnose weapon issues to begin with. The people who insist on doing otherwise seem to have the most problems The LWRC I tried the parts in is from 2006 or 2007 and a completely milspec lower. There's nothing odd about the HK lower either. The operating system used in either has nothing to do with the triggers being locked up. Nor does it have anything to do with being sold parts that I was told could be used with milspec FCG's and then being told that I needed a pre-cut Geissele HK trigger. ASD has "coming soon' on their HK Geissele pre-cut trigger,page. The install guide for the MR556 is either wrong or whoever answered my email is wrong. I didn't try 3 setups, I tried 2. I can pull another LWRC SBR out from 2006'ish but it's a 6.8 that I have absolutely shot the ever living piss out of. I don't really want to feed and FRT'd 6.8. It also has a milspec lower. go to 10:10 min of video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyrw30KDxUU |
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Originally Posted By dugedug: Juicy Media posted a vid talking about issues with the AS 45/90 and the MR556A4 lower that may be causing the problem. I'm running a HK MR556A4 complete upper with a STS clone 416 lower, G$ HK 556 Hammer/SSA trigger (didn't want to cut my HK 556 trigger), no G$ blocker, stock HK buffer, and haven't run into any issues. The AS V2s trigger also worked in the 416 clone lower. I suspect HK changed something in the MR556A4 lower. go to 10:10 min of video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gyrw30KDxUU I watched that video right after it came out which was after I tried installing the parts in my two SBR’s. |
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Dropped my LWRC upper onto a RRA lower that has an Arc Fire V1 installed (had to lower the shelf on that lower with a mill to make the V1 fit). LWRC function checks totally normal with the V1. Note that an LWRC carrier is not mil spec- the tail end has an increased diameter to help prevent carrier tilt due to the piston. But that doesn’t affect it functioning with the Arc Fire. Sold my LWRC sbr lower so can’t look at one of those, but I found info that they have made both low and high shelf receivers in the past…did you verify that? Don’t know what to say at this point beyond trying them in a standard AR. And make sure it is function checking out as OK before slapping an upper on it. You don’t need any upper to tell if it should function OK I am sure there is a simple answer for you, but it just takes some work to narrow down what it is. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: The LWRC I tried the parts in is from 2006 or 2007 and a completely milspec lower. There’s nothing odd about the HK lower either. The operating system used in either has nothing to do with the triggers being locked up. Nor does it have anything to do with being sold parts that I was told could be used with milspec FCG’s and then being told that I needed a pre-cut Geissele HK trigger. ASD has “coming soon” on their HK Geissele pre-cut trigger page. The install guide for the MR556 is either wrong or whoever answered my email is wrong. I didn’t try 3 setups, I tried 2. I can pull another LWRC SBR out from 2006’ish but it’s a 6.8 that I have absolutely shot the ever living piss out of. I don’t really want to feed and FRT’d 6.8. It also has a milspec lower. No need to shoot it to verify if it should function OK (minus buffer weight issues of course). Try it as part of diagnosing the issue. |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By tac556: No need to shoot it to verify if it should function OK (minus buffer weight issues of course). Try it as part of diagnosing the issue. You’re not picking up what I’m putting down. I cannot shoot either rifle. Trigger no worky at all. Neither kit or any combination of the parts function, except the selector rotates. The triggers do not function. When I squeeze the trigger in either mode, the hammer does not release. Plus on the HK, the trip lever locks up the gun. I’m not spending $1500 for a carrier or $2000 for a complete bolt to mess with FRT in the HK. I will either wait until ASD or someone else comes out with a system that works with the A4 bolt or forget about the notion altogether. I ordered an Atrius G Lever kit last night and some other stuff to retool and update my 10’ish year old CMMG AR9 for FRT fun. |
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Originally Posted By tac556: Dropped my LWRC upper onto a RRA lower that has an Arc Fire V1 installed (had to lower the shelf on that lower with a mill to make the V1 fit). LWRC function checks totally normal with the V1. Note that an LWRC carrier is not mil spec- the tail end has an increased diameter to help prevent carrier tilt due to the piston. But that doesn’t affect it functioning with the Arc Fire. Sold my LWRC sbr lower so can’t look at one of those, but I found info that they have made both low and high shelf receivers in the past…did you verify that? Don’t know what to say at this point beyond trying them in a standard AR. And make sure it is function checking out as OK before slapping an upper on it. You don’t need any upper to tell if it should function OK I am sure there is a simple answer for you, but it just takes some work to narrow down what it is. My LWRC 5.56 lower is low shelf. I drug the 6.8 out of the back of the safe and it is a high shelf. |
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Originally Posted By cardboardkiller: You’re not picking up what I’m putting down. I cannot shoot either rifle. Trigger no worky at all. Neither kit or any combination of the parts function, except the selector rotates. The triggers do not function. When I squeeze the trigger in either mode, the hammer does not release. Plus on the HK, the trip lever locks up the gun. I’m not spending $1500 for a carrier or $2000 for a complete bolt to mess with FRT in the HK. I will either wait until ASD or someone else comes out with a system that works with the A4 bolt or forget about the notion altogether. I ordered an Atrius G Lever kit last night and some other stuff to retool and update my 10’ish year old CMMG AR9 for FRT fun. And that happens with no upper on it? Or just when the gun is fully assembled? That is what I was getting at- no upper needed to see if the parts work together or not. Sounds like yours don’t. Sounds like you need to post up some photos of the machined areas on your triggers. They shipped me incorrectly machined triggers with the V2 version, but it was like a 30 second fix. Yours might be too high on the right side if it won’t release the hammer at all, means the trigger isn’t rotating far enough… |
a loaded gun won’t set you free, so you say…
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Originally Posted By BuckeyeRifleman: I haven’t heard of anyone needing shims with V2. Not saying there isn’t anyone out there that does, but I haven’t heard of it. Originally Posted By BuckeyeRifleman: Originally Posted By jclendineng: I’d be curious in an engineering video on the differences between v1 and v2. There was a very good video on YouTube going in depth about the v1 and it was great. Also, anyone with a v2 needing shims or was that issue resolved vs the v1? I haven’t heard of anyone needing shims with V2. Not saying there isn’t anyone out there that does, but I haven’t heard of it. Are the shims you’re referring to the centering blocks for M-16 cut lowers? I’ve been wanting to pick up an ARC Fire, but I’m not sure how reliable it’d be if I have to use a centering block. I was looking at the lowers that I have and they’re either high cut or M-16 cut. Worst case I suppose I could go and buy a low cut receiver. |
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Originally Posted By TZLVredmist: ARC V2s have worked great for us in the M16 Cut lowers for the LIMA SIX. No issues so far. Ryan That’s good to hear, thank you!!  I’m not overly familiar with the Lima 6, but looking at your website, it looks pretty close to an AR lower (around the fire control group side of things). Am I correct in my assessment?
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Originally Posted By TZLVredmist: Yup! M16 pocket cut AR. Only real change is in geometry for aesthetics on the L6 upper, and the removal of the magazine well for a dovetail. That’s good news for me in that case! Your L6 lowers look like a blast, however I imagine with a FRT belt fed, my ammo budget would be in low earth orbit. Thank you again for the info!
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You guys probably already know that Optics Planet is selling Arcfire FRT's, so, I ordered a V2 non-ambi 0-90-180 ($199.99) with free shipping last night. I was going to wait a little bit as I was still mulling the 0-45-90, but ultimately decided to just stay 0-90-180 as I didn't want ambi and there's no 0-45-90 non-ambi version. I jumped as well partly because I saw a video the other day by one of the 2A law type tubers (and I can't find it right now to link it) who says Rare Greed just filed against AS Designs and also supposedly sent a cease and desist to Optics Planet for selling them. OP still has them on their site, so not sure how true it all is or where everything is at currently. Hopefully mine gets out the door before they have to pull them (assuming the cease and desist is true)....we'll see... |
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Originally Posted By 170Driver: Are the shims you’re referring to the centering blocks for M-16 cut lowers? I’ve been wanting to pick up an ARC Fire, but I’m not sure how reliable it’d be if I have to use a centering block. I was looking at the lowers that I have and they’re either high cut or M-16 cut. Worst case I suppose I could go and buy a low cut receiver. Originally Posted By 170Driver: Originally Posted By BuckeyeRifleman: Originally Posted By jclendineng: I’d be curious in an engineering video on the differences between v1 and v2. There was a very good video on YouTube going in depth about the v1 and it was great. Also, anyone with a v2 needing shims or was that issue resolved vs the v1? I haven’t heard of anyone needing shims with V2. Not saying there isn’t anyone out there that does, but I haven’t heard of it. Are the shims you’re referring to the centering blocks for M-16 cut lowers? I’ve been wanting to pick up an ARC Fire, but I’m not sure how reliable it’d be if I have to use a centering block. I was looking at the lowers that I have and they’re either high cut or M-16 cut. Worst case I suppose I could go and buy a low cut receiver. @170Driver The shim being referred to is this tiny shim, that slightly alters the timing for some people whose ARC-Fires are having issues: https://borebuddy.com/product/arc-fire-timing-advance-shim/ |
It was not preached to the crowd,
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
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Originally Posted By 1BMF: I ordered a non ambi V2. Any issues putting it in a PSA or Anderson lower? Shouldn't be. Just remember a dead blow buffer. |
It was not preached to the crowd,
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
It was not taught by the State.
No man spoke it aloud,
When the English began to hate.
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Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Shouldn't be. Just remember a dead blow buffer. Originally Posted By ELittlefield: Originally Posted By 1BMF: I ordered a non ambi V2. Any issues putting it in a PSA or Anderson lower? Shouldn't be. Just remember a dead blow buffer. Thanks, yeah I’ve got a bunch of tromix H3’s. |
ARC Fire V2 (Page 9 of 13)
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