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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - The Essentials of a Precision AR-15 (Page 2 of 2)
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you need three basic components for a semi-automatic AR-15 to produce its best mechanical accuracy a match-grade barrel, a quality free-float handguard and match-grade ammunition, I think you left one very important item out. The trigger. Without a good trigger, you can't hit the broad side of a barn. I see where you're coming from but a trigger doesn't make the rifle any more accurate, it just makes it easier for the shooter to perform closer to the accuracy potential of the rifle. That has more to do with the shooter's skill than the rifle itself. There are people that can outshoot me if they're using a GI trigger and I'm using a match trigger because they are better at trigger control. The barrel, handguard, and ammo are not affected by the shooter and are more at the root of accuracy itself. That said, a good trigger certainly helps me get to the inherent accuracy potential of the rifle I'm shooting much like a proper length stock, good optics, and a sandbag rest will help me. Perhaps an alternative way to phrase it is that an improved trigger may or may not improve your accuracy, but a bad one can certainly hurt you. I've had a RRA NM and a Jard that improved my shooting a great deal, and a Bushmaster standard that was definitely detrimental. All my rifles except the bushmaster have been (potentially) more accurate than I am. |
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Most would be money ahead getting a travel screw installed correctly, using a typical LPK, and leaving it at that. THEN, after they get a Kreiger barrel and have spent six months getting the load tuned, get the trigger. There's a reason no trigger maker guarantees X MOA improvement in accuracy out of the box. The trigger can't do it, the gun has to be able to shoot it first.
Same as free floats, not guarantee of improvement. BUT, barrel and ammo makers do promise it, and deliver. Aren't bashful about it at all. It's what they advertise, and like to show off. Little fly wings on tiny plaques aren't just ad hype, they really mean to deliver better accuracy. Float and trigger makers can't do that until you install that better barrel and develop the better load. An American Gold trigger in a CMMG Bargain Bin won't make it a 1/2 MOA shooter, or the person behind the trigger capable of it. Too often the race gun influence gets out of hand and things are bought with no concept of what really makes them work together. Get it in the right order - barrel, ammo, then free float, trigger. Always do the first two first, get them out of order and you're just selling something. |
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the precise point depending upon the particular bullet and chamber involved.
Correct. I can't load long cartridges in 5.56 because of the length of the magazine. I load long in bolt guns such as Remington 700 in 30-06. I load 1 at a time thru the ejecton port and not from the magazine. If I chamber, then remove the cartridge, the dents in the bullet is obvious. I don't crimp in the canulure. This is what I normally use to shoot groups. Sierra .308 168 gr MatchKing HPBT. I also ran moly bullets when they first came out but went back to old reliable ones before the fad took place. |
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Have you investigated the effect of various flash hiders on accuracy/consistency? This Add me to the curious. I've been plodding away in pursuit of a sub moa 10 shot group and one of the variables is the A2 flash hider on the end of my WOA barrel. Can flash hiders affect consistancy? |
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the precise point depending upon the particular bullet and chamber involved.
Correct. I can't load long cartridges in 5.56 because of the length of the magazine. I load long in bolt guns such as Remington 700 in 30-06. I load 1 at a time thru the ejecton port and not from the magazine. If I chamber, then remove the cartridge, the dents in the bullet is obvious. I don't crimp in the canulure. This is what I normally use to shoot groups. Sierra .308 168 gr MatchKing HPBT. I also ran moly bullets when they first came out but went back to old reliable ones before the fad took place. you can load long when single loading. Just leave a mag in the well, drop a round in there and hit the bolt release. Though with an 80 grn rnd I would recommend dropping it into the chamber, then hitting the release. Here is an 80 loaded to 2.550 as per the Sierra manual and a factory Hornady 55. On a sidenote a COL of 2.550 is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAY too long for a Wylde chamber lol. More like 2.42ish to stay off the lands. The Sierra manual lists a Colt AR-15A2 HBAR barrel for their loads. 
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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - The Essentials of a Precision AR-15 (Page 2 of 2)
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